Conibear pan triggers

[mark-edmonton]

This is my second year trapping so bear with me. In 2 weeks I have gotten 6 marten and 1 lynx. Have seen that around some of my marten boxes set on the ground that there are track near and around but not in the trap. For those that use on triggers, do you find your catch rate increases? Also how long would you leave a box in an area without a catch before you move it?

Thanks guys and merry christmas

[McLeod Valley]

I have used pan triggers , 2x2 square of coreplast , I can't say they make a big difference in catch rate success??? As for moving sets , if you are trapping past places and had success I'd leave it , but for the most part make your new sets where there is visible sign.

[northerntrapper]

Got bait, tracks, a good lure, and patience. Time will take care of the rest.
I don't know if it is just me, but if I have horizontal boxes, I keep the snow off the log in front of the box and the running pole. Makes it looks 'used'. To me, I like them better than the verticle sets, just because of that aspect.

[KegRiver]

I've never used pans for Coni's.

It depends on the location whether or not I'd move a set.

Some set are made on corridors. I never move them and reset them every year even if there are no tracks around.

Other sets are more temporary or experimental in nature.
Like sets where prey abundance has resulted in a change in travel patterns.
Or in marginal areas, that offer chances due to a higher predator population.

In those cases I move the set after a month of no activity in the area.

Another set I may move is one I made when setting up a new area for the first time. Some sites that look good the first time through, just don't produce over the long term. With those sites I let the set remain for at least six week.

Some travel corridors are rather wide. An animal may come through within a hundred yards of a set but never find it. It takes time to find out exactly where this set will be most productive.

In short I deal with each set individually.

Some places are just naturals. Even with no sign they are worth setting and leaving a set in such a location for long periods of inactivity will generally pay off.

Other locations are just never going to produce a lot no matter what you do.

It all takes time and careful observation to figure it all out.

[dale7637]

Cant answer you about the pans, as i have never tried them.

I agree with Keg about moving sets. I normally leave sets alone if they are in an area that has produced, or an area that seems like a natural travel corridor.

I will however move some sets around after 3weeks-month if there is no activity.

I had 2 mink sets last year in an area where i was sure that mink would travel. I set them at the beginning of the season, and checked them every time i checked my little line. I didnt have squat, but there were always a few tracks around. Finally, on the last 2 checks of the season, i picked up 2 doubles, 4 mink in total. I dont know exactly what changed, could have been weather, or food source, or the deep snow that changed their travel pattern slightly. Either way, patience paid off.

[G_Godberson]

There is no doubt that pan triggers increase mink catches. They really dont like pushing triggers like marten do. If you use pans, it is imperativie that you have trigger pan cocked up at 30 to 45 degrees to the approach of the animal. If they are flat at bottom of trap the mink/marten can jump over pan and you may have a miss. Cocked up, they jump with front feet against pan as they explore bait smells beyond trap. There are many pan types including coroplast (mentioned in this thread), cedar/wood triggers with holes drilled in for triggers, or one I stumbled on - metal truss type reinforcements where bend points around triggers and flatten rest. You can get small 4"x2" squares and cut in two.