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  #31  
Old 09-30-2020, 07:49 PM
JeanCretien JeanCretien is offline
 
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Yup. Three elk like this. I tired leaving the hide on to keep things clean and it was good. Also- when you do the back quarters and you are following the pelvis, just watch because there is a little triangle shaped void in the pelvis that has guts behind it so just watch for that. Last one we did tenderloins last and half removed the guts to get to them and it made things really easy. Minimal waste too. Good luck.


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  #32  
Old 09-30-2020, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawibunga View Post
So this may be a silly question (note I've not done this method, never tried it, nor have a watched the videos yet, so really have no idea) But if you're just packing out meat, what does one typically do to retain proof of sex and species. I may try it this year as I have a couple doe tags to fill. Thanks!
We leave evidence of sex attached to a skinned quarter with a small patch of hide. If we debone it we just leave evidence of sex attached to one of the hams we pull off the hind quarter.

Put the testicals in a zip lock back and wrap tightly with electrical tape or wire, then it goes right in the game bag.
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  #33  
Old 09-30-2020, 10:22 PM
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FIL showed me this method on my first elk. Have used it on elk, moose and several bison both personal and at work since that day. When I have to put an animal down for what ever reason I use this method unless it’s a deer as it’s usually me and maybe one other guy. Since I have to get it salvaged ASAP and to the food bank gutless it is. Then when I’m done I can drop the robs head spine and guts at the landfill. Most of the animals we end up dispatching would normally end up in the landfill but I always try and salvage as much as I can.
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  #34  
Old 09-30-2020, 10:40 PM
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i will too as others

isn't that why everyone carry's plastic groceries bags ;;

have a great season all

David
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  #35  
Old 10-01-2020, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 58thecat View Post
Fake an injury and get your hunting partners to do the work

Ohhh my back....dam went out guys....sorry

Might work once but then again hunt with semi intelligent good ol'boys....
ROFL ! ! !

Great idea, but it wouldn't work for me, I always hunt alone.

I've had too much trouble with noisy partners over the years so now I go solo.

Not many guys know how to walk silently it seems.
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  #36  
Old 10-01-2020, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SouthWestRanger View Post
Let’s hear them! Especially if they are moose related.
Glad to.
I used them on Moose more then on Deer.
I've never hunted Elk so can't say for sure they would work on Elk but I expect they would.


First trick I learned while guiding.

You can remove the lower part of the back leg as fast or perhaps faster with a knife then with a saw.

The trick is, a few inches below the knee joint, just past where the tendon attaches, there is a second fixed join.
It looks like a slightly larger portion of the lower leg but it's actually a joint.

All you have to do is cut all the way around that joint, right at the largest part of the bulge.
Cut just to the bone, to cut as many of the tendons as possible.

Then you brace the outer center of that joint against your knee and give the lower part a sharp pull outward. It should snap off cleanly.

Mind you it's been a lot of years since I did it that way, and I'm not even sure I could do it now, but when I was young and strong it was my favorite way to do it.
Now I use a sawsall.

Another trick, if you are gutting the animal. cut out one flank, then you can roll everything out the side instead of trying to drag everything up over the pelvis.
It's much easier that way.

I'm not as sharp as I used to be so I'm sure there are other tricks I used that I can't think of now.




Just thought of one.

When you are working on an animal by yourself and it wants to roll on it's side when you want it on it's back or belly, lay a shot log against one side.
For a Moose I like a log two or three feet long and about 8 inches in diameter. You'll need two.
Lay one log a few inches away from the side you want to roll towards, then roll critter toward that log, to the orientation you want, so that when it's where you want it. it's resting against that first log..
Then kick a similar log against the other side to hold it there.

That way you can work with both hands without worrying about your critter rolling onto it's side.
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  #37  
Old 10-01-2020, 12:45 AM
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I found a video of the trick to remove the lower leg with a knife.

This shows very well what I was talking about.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2vTbYjLKko
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  #38  
Old 10-01-2020, 05:43 AM
irgendoeppis irgendoeppis is offline
 
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Keep a few things in mind:
Most guys that do the gutless method and drop off the meat at a butcher shop have more hair, leaves and dirt then meat in the bags.
The muscles, specially loin, tenderloin and sirloin have no bone to hold on during rigor mortis, so they will pull together and will never be as tender then as the would be cooled on the bone.
The 4 legs in separet bags are fine, but the bag with the loins and other pieces
cant hang for a longer time period.

So, for a buck or bull, that goes for ground or sausages it's all good, but for a nice doe or elk cow, I only would field dress them and take it to a place were I can skin them hanging and in sanitary conditions and do the initial cooling and aging bone in. And if I have to pack them out, then in quarters.
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  #39  
Old 10-01-2020, 05:51 AM
35 whelen 35 whelen is offline
 
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It all comes down to how many times you've done it and how experienced you are, my meat is as clean as you'll ever see but yes you're right about hanging the meat on the bones it won't shrink as much.

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  #40  
Old 10-01-2020, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irgendoeppis View Post
Keep a few things in mind:
Most guys that do the gutless method and drop off the meat at a butcher shop have more hair, leaves and dirt then meat in the bags.
The muscles, specially loin, tenderloin and sirloin have no bone to hold on during rigor mortis, so they will pull together and will never be as tender then as the would be cooled on the bone.
The 4 legs in separet bags are fine, but the bag with the loins and other pieces
cant hang for a longer time period.

So, for a buck or bull, that goes for ground or sausages it's all good, but for a nice doe or elk cow, I only would field dress them and take it to a place were I can skin them hanging and in sanitary conditions and do the initial cooling and aging bone in. And if I have to pack them out, then in quarters.

I don’t disagree with you about the muscle shortening. I poke a hole in the back straps and hang them, trust me they get a good stretch.
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  #41  
Old 10-01-2020, 08:26 AM
calgarychef calgarychef is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KegRiver View Post
Glad to.
I used them on Moose more then on Deer.
I've never hunted Elk so can't say for sure they would work on Elk but I expect they would.


First trick I learned while guiding.

You can remove the lower part of the back leg as fast or perhaps faster with a knife then with a saw.

The trick is, a few inches below the knee joint, just past where the tendon attaches, there is a second fixed join.
It looks like a slightly larger portion of the lower leg but it's actually a joint.

All you have to do is cut all the way around that joint, right at the largest part of the bulge.
Cut just to the bone, to cut as many of the tendons as possible.

Then you brace the outer center of that joint against your knee and give the lower part a sharp pull outward. It should snap off cleanly.

Mind you it's been a lot of years since I did it that way, and I'm not even sure I could do it now, but when I was young and strong it was my favorite way to do it.
Now I use a sawsall.

Another trick, if you are gutting the animal. cut out one flank, then you can roll everything out the side instead of trying to drag everything up over the pelvis.
It's much easier that way.

I'm not as sharp as I used to be so I'm sure there are other tricks I used that I can't think of now.




Just thought of one.

When you are working on an animal by yourself and it wants to roll on it's side when you want it on it's back or belly, lay a shot log against one side.
For a Moose I like a log two or three feet long and about 8 inches in diameter. You'll need two.
Lay one log a few inches away from the side you want to roll towards, then roll critter toward that log, to the orientation you want, so that when it's where you want it. it's resting against that first log..
Then kick a similar log against the other side to hold it there.

That way you can work with both hands without worrying about your critter rolling onto it's side.
Cutting out one flank.... dang that’s brilliant. Why didn’t I think of that.
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  #42  
Old 10-01-2020, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by calgarychef View Post
Cutting out one flank.... dang that’s brilliant. Why didn’t I think of that.
That's what I asked myself when I first saw it done.

I had been taught to pull everything out over the pelvis. It had never occurred to me that there might be a better way. I guess I thought there was only one right way, so that is how I did it.

Another trick the guy who taught me that, used. He carried a small home owner chain saw. Bought new and never had chain oil in it. He filled the oil tank with cooking oil and used that saw to quarter his Moose.
It was fast but it also left bone chips in some of the meat which I didn't care for.
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  #43  
Old 10-01-2020, 12:21 PM
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Lots of fellas using those cordless recoprocating saws these days as well.
I have used a small 14" Home Lite in the past also
I like to lay the meat on a bed of green willows if possible , and use a tarp for transporting the game bags on the boat or a truck .
Cat
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  #44  
Old 10-01-2020, 12:27 PM
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I tried various power saws but for the bulk and weight they weren't worth the effort, not to mention all the bone chips. It is very easy to take a moose or elk completely apart with a knife but if you don't like doing the breast bone and pelvis with a knife a hatchet is light and does a better job than the heavier saws.
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  #45  
Old 10-01-2020, 12:45 PM
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I tried various power saws but for the bulk and weight they weren't worth the effort, not to mention all the bone chips. It is very easy to take a moose or elk completely apart with a knife but if you don't like doing the breast bone and pelvis with a knife a hatchet is light and does a better job than the heavier saws.
Yeah I still prefer as small hatchet after using everything else.
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  #46  
Old 10-01-2020, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KegRiver View Post
Another trick the guy who taught me that, used. He carried a small home owner chain saw. Bought new and never had chain oil in it. He filled the oil tank with cooking oil and used that saw to quarter his Moose.
It was fast but it also left bone chips in some of the meat which I didn't care for.
That's what the old crew I had hunted with did. Agree about the bone chips.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean2 View Post
if you don't like doing the breast bone and pelvis with a knife a hatchet is light and does a better job than the heavier saws.
That's what I have. Lightweight, and multi-purpose.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/f...-0596711p.html
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  #47  
Old 10-01-2020, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catnthehat View Post
Lots of fellas using those cordless recoprocating saws these days as well.
I have used a small 14" Home Lite in the past also
I like to lay the meat on a bed of green willows if possible , and use a tarp for transporting the game bags on the boat or a truck .
Cat
Speaking of game bags.

Another lesson I learned while guiding, cotton bed sheets make great game bags.

It can be hard to find bags big enough for a Moose quarter but no problem finding bed sheets large enough to make bags as big as you need.

And they are breathable, far tougher then many commercial game bags and the tighter weave keeps meat cleaner.
Just fold in half and have the wife sow two sides to form a bag for whatever size you want.

I only use game bags for transporting. I take them off as soon as I get to where I can hang the quarters.
Leaving them on can promote spoilage. If flies are a problem, a good dusting with black pepper will discourage most most of them.
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  #48  
Old 10-01-2020, 01:06 PM
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Yeah I still prefer as small hatchet after using everything else.
Cat
Agreed.

Except I like to use a large knife to split the breast bone. I drive it down the middle by hitting it with a solid piece of wood. Like a piece of firewood or something of that nature.

I carry an old knife for that and other utility jobs, one I'm not afraid to put a ding or two in the edge.

Still a good Estwing hatchet is hard to beat. I can't afford one though.
But I can afford a Old Hickory knife .

The hatchets I do have are too thick to make good splitting tools.
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  #49  
Old 10-01-2020, 01:30 PM
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We buy Beef meat socks from the Butcher supply. It comes as a continuous long piece of tubing. Very inexpensive, goes over any Moose or Elk and deer and you just cut it to length. So from quarters to whole animal, tie a knot in the end, line it up against the animal to measure needed length, roll a bunch up and pull it over like a set of nylons, cut it off at the top and tie another knot. Keeps the meat clean, absorbs blood but breathes good enough you can leave it on till you butcher.
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  #50  
Old 10-01-2020, 02:12 PM
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Just more of the same said above...
won’t do it any other way now. First time was on an elk and two of us had it all said and done in about 80 minutes.
Left the tenderloin until last. Opened up the belly to let guts fall out a bit and take the pressure of the tenderloins. Easy to reach in from the short ribs. Like to check the heart and liver anyway.
Big thing I noticed was cleaner, more simple, and no bugs until the guts were let out.
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  #51  
Old 10-02-2020, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Torkdiesel View Post
Like others said, watch YouTube for the process, then take your time doing the first ones.
We don’t gut any animals, everything comes out in pieces.
Moose, Caribou, Elk and bears.
If we have to pack them more then a couple hundred yards the bones stay in the bush too. My better guides can have a moose skinned and loaded in 45-50 minutes, if caping for a shoulder mount probably an hour and a half.
Deboned completely in under 2 hours.
Our rule is under a pound of meat total left on the carcass
Sounds like we need a video of your team breaking a couple down. bear and moose. your experience has to be vast!
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  #52  
Old 10-02-2020, 08:42 AM
calgarychef calgarychef is offline
 
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I have a buddy who guts an elk and there’s only a tiny slit in the belly.
It’s clean as a whistle but I don’t know how he does it.
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  #53  
Old 10-02-2020, 01:45 PM
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Maybe a stupid question...do you still hang deboned meat/quarters to age (vs hanging a whole animal) or process immediately?

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  #54  
Old 10-02-2020, 01:51 PM
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Maybe a stupid question...do you still hang deboned meat/quarters to age (vs hanging a whole animal) or process immediately?

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Boned or not you need to hang meat at least till the rigor mortis subsides. In 34 degree F weather that will take about 2-3 days. Colder takes longer and frozen it won't subside at all. If you want to eat meat right after the kill best to go for organ meat, even tenderloin will be much tougher than normal until the rigor is out of it.
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  #55  
Old 10-02-2020, 02:06 PM
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Sounds like we need a video of your team breaking a couple down. bear and moose. your experience has to be vast!
I second the motion!
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  #56  
Old 10-02-2020, 05:49 PM
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Maybe a stupid question...do you still hang deboned meat/quarters to age (vs hanging a whole animal) or process immediately?

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They don’t have to be deboned, you can do the gutless method and leave the bones In.
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  #57  
Old 10-02-2020, 09:10 PM
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Sounds like we need a video of your team breaking a couple down. bear and moose. your experience has to be vast!
I can try and get one in the spring doing a bear. In B.C. we have to recover all meat so it all comes out, usually in pieces especially on hound hunts.
Maybe a time lapse of one of the boys doing a moose would be cool ! I’ll see what we can get put together 👍

I’m not sure if my experience is vast, dad’s is, and Grandpa would certainly qualify, but we do handle quite a few critters every season
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  #58  
Old 10-03-2020, 06:46 AM
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There's a few videos online already check out Randy Newberg he does one Fred Eckler does one there's lots of them

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  #59  
Old 10-03-2020, 11:27 AM
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For hair when you get meat back to camp use a propane torch with "belled/fanned" nozzle...small tiger torch works well.

First wipe the quarters with paper towel....try not to use water...

But it's better to clean as much debris and hair off.

Then singe the quarters...

It will burn off stuck on hair and help form a dry skin layer on the meat which will protect it.

We prefer to gut in field, hang at camp and skin, then quarter with recip saw and bag and hang.

There's nothing worse than a moose hair in your sausage...
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  #60  
Old 10-03-2020, 12:11 PM
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Maybe a silly question, but how do you hang gutless dressed moose or elk for 10 day tenderizing. Normally you get some dryed/browned meat on surface along with leaves,blood and hair on quarters that usually gets skinned off for the dogs.
Also 'Rocky' would have no sides to punch when getting ready for his boxing fights.
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