Ice road trip to Tuktoyaktuk

[Bigwoodsman]

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever

Planning on having 2 full size spares, plus a couple ratchet straps along with a tire repair kit. I will also carry 50 liters or more of extra gas.

I would probably give the river a try if I knew it was solid the whole way. I don't mind putting it in low range.

I won't have a satellite phone, but I will have a radio.

If you try this take a good GPS, you will get into the delta and won't be able to tell the river from the land. Also try and get a hold of a local for snow depth, you could be pushing 1 - 1.5 meters of snow, more or less. Be a crappy place to break down or get stuck.

BW

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by Bigwoodsman

If you try this take a good GPS, you will get into the delta and won't be able to tell the river from the land. Also try and get a hold of a local for snow depth, you could be pushing 1 - 1.5 meters of snow, more or less. Be a crappy place to break down or get stuck.

BW

I will be taking my off road, hand held GPS. Probably fairly unlikely that I will make a go of it, but thought that it was possible that it either got solid straight through, or blown off enough that it would be semi-clear.

[trackrig]

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever

I was thinking of that, but it seemed that if I waited for that, I might be cutting it close on the way back. Not sure how early the road could possibly close. :

I thought in some literature I'd received from the Yukon tourist bureau recently that the road was open all year around now? I want to make a summer trip of it probably in 2019.

Bill

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by trackrig

I thought in some literature I'd received from the Yukon tourist bureau recently that the road was open all year around now? I want to make a summer trip of it probably in 2019.

Bill

Yeah, they'll have the overland route open. Part of the appeal for me, is going while there's still an ice road.

[PartTimeHunter]

Little bit jealous. I've been to Inuvik but never had the opportunity to go to Tuk. The VHF radio is a good idea though I wouldn't waste money on a cb. When I was running up there the truckers didn't use cb's because of the short range of them. Hell when I was going up there the radio was our phone too - the old XJ's. Look into that soon cause they do need to be licenced.

Liard River hot springs is a place to stop on the way up and I believe there is another around Whitehorse though can't be sure as never been to it. I loved the trip north of Whitehorse in the fall.

[Bigwoodsman]

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever

Yeah, they'll have the overland route open. Part of the appeal for me, is going while there's still an ice road.

The overland route from Inuvik to Tuktoyuktuk won't be open to the public until October 2017. The base was completed last spring and the overlay is going on this winter and over the summer.

Last year of the Ice Road to Tuk! Still building it to Aklavik though.

BW

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by Bigwoodsman

The overland route from Inuvik to Tuktoyuktuk won't be open to the public until October 2017. The base was completed last spring and the overlay is going on this winter and over the summer.

Last year of the Ice Road to Tuk! Still building it to Aklavik though.

BW

That's what I meant to convey. Might have not come across very clear. Track Rig is planning on going 2019 when it will be open.

[Bigwoodsman]

This thread has got me thinking that I might just make my own trip up there in 2020. It'll be 40 years since I've been up the Dempster to Inuvik. Then take the new highway to Tuk. I'm thinking September might be a great time to travel. Before the blizzards and the bugs have quieted down.

BW

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by PartTimeHunter

Little bit jealous. I've been to Inuvik but never had the opportunity to go to Tuk. The VHF radio is a good idea though I wouldn't waste money on a cb. When I was running up there the truckers didn't use cb's because of the short range of them. Hell when I was going up there the radio was our phone too - the old XJ's. Look into that soon cause they do need to be licenced.

Liard River hot springs is a place to stop on the way up and I believe there is another around Whitehorse though can't be sure as never been to it. I loved the trip north of Whitehorse in the fall.

XJ mobile service? Is that still around? I have citizen's band channels, family channels, a few emergency channels, ladd road channels, and amateur channels programed into my radio. Reminds me that maybe I should see if I can get a few more loaded in there.

I was kind of considering the dedicated CB, as I though it might have more range in that band and a couple more channels preloaded into it, and possibly just give me more to monitor. But after reading a little, it seems it's pushing the same Wattage anyway. Might be something to play with.

[PartTimeHunter]

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever

XJ mobile service? Is that still around? I have citizen's band channels, family channels, a few emergency channels, ladd road channels, and amateur channels programed into my radio. Reminds me that maybe I should see if I can get a few more loaded in there.

I was kind of considering the dedicated CB, as I though it might have more range in that band and a couple more channels preloaded into it, and possibly just give me more to monitor. But after reading a little, it seems it's pushing the same Wattage anyway. Might be something to play with.

By cb I assume you meant the old citizen band radios that the truckers used to use - breaker, breaker 19 type of stuff. If so they don't have near the range of the vhf radios that is why we were all using the vhf on the road as you would a cb if you were running down south. Could be we got the range because of the towers for the XJ system? I don't know if the XJ mobile is still working. With satellite phones now it may not be. I don't remember for sure but I think it may have been one of the Ladd channels that we used for down the road chatter.
Now that I think back, most of us still had cb's but only used them when you wanted to get around a group of American tourists. They would pack up and go slow but were more than willing to spread out and let a guy get around if you asked nice

[Bigwoodsman]

Originally Posted by PartTimeHunter

By cb I assume you meant the old citizen band radios that the truckers used to use - breaker, breaker 19 type of stuff. If so they don't have near the range of the vhf radios that is why we were all using the vhf on the road as you would a cb if you were running down south. Could be we got the range because of the towers for the XJ system? I don't know if the XJ mobile is still working. With satellite phones now it may not be. I don't remember for sure but I think it may have been one of the Ladd channels that we used for down the road chatter.
Now that I think back, most of us still had cb's but only used them when you wanted to get around a group of American tourists. They would pack up and go slow but were more than willing to spread out and let a guy get around if you asked nice

When I ran up there we used the XJ when able to or needed to, and the CB if you were close enough. A klick apart was pushing it. Years later VHF radio running all the Ladd bands 1, 2,3,& 4, company bands, private bands and a rubber band.

If I go up I'll get a simple 4 channel VHF and run the Ladd channels on a scan

BW

[PartTimeHunter]

Originally Posted by Bigwoodsman

When I ran up there we used the XJ when able to or needed to, and the CB if you were close enough. A klick apart was pushing it. Years later VHF radio running all the Ladd bands 1, 2,3,& 4, company bands, private bands and a rubber band.

If I go up I'll get a simple 4 channel VHF and run the Ladd channels on a scan

BW

Yeah pretty much what we did though didn't really use the cb up north much. A cclick or a hill/corner messed up the cb.
That would be a good idea, pretty sure we ran on a Ladd channel. One of these days I'd like to make the trip to go fishing. Would really like to go for caribou with my son too.

[MountainTi]

Don't forget a "University of Tuk" shirt. Any northern store up there should have them. Spent a couple winters in Tuk and area. Should be able to see Esso's old "island" in the bay. Quite impressive. Was used to set up a rig on. Watch the booze up there.

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by PartTimeHunter

By cb I assume you meant the old citizen band radios that the truckers used to use - breaker, breaker 19 type of stuff. If so they don't have near the range of the vhf radios that is why we were all using the vhf on the road as you would a cb if you were running down south. Could be we got the range because of the towers for the XJ system? I don't know if the XJ mobile is still working. With satellite phones now it may not be. I don't remember for sure but I think it may have been one of the Ladd channels that we used for down the road chatter.
Now that I think back, most of us still had cb's but only used them when you wanted to get around a group of American tourists. They would pack up and go slow but were more than willing to spread out and let a guy get around if you asked nice

Yes, the citizens band. Unless you have repeaters, anything is somewhat limited. I don't know how much real world difference there is, but my little radio reaches a ways with just the regular antenna.

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by MountainTi

Don't forget a "University of Tuk" shirt. Any northern store up there should have them. Spent a couple winters in Tuk and area. Should be able to see Esso's old "island" in the bay. Quite impressive. Was used to set up a rig on. Watch the booze up there.

Will do!

[300magman]

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever

Hi guys. Going on a little road trip in about a month. I will be going about mid March to and coming back around early April. I will be missing the festival down there, but looking for suggestions on stuff to do. No real hurry, taking my time, and more than likely going alone. Truck is pretty ready. Going to get NAPD to check the transmission that I bought from them (slight seal leak), and probably will be putting in a new rad.

Other than a few small details, I am ready to go. Will probably be doing a little wilderness camping along the way, and will be carrying a couple spare tires, extra gas, and stuff to self recover, and stay warm if needed.

Looking for suggestions on where to go, stop, and look at stuff there and along the way. Never been up there, so is there anything else I should bring? Probably some extra food, as I hear it is expensive up there. Would like to pick up some nice mukluks maybe. Sounds a little dumb out loud, but should I bring trading fodder??

How remote is it? Of course I will have extra fluids on the truck, and be ready to change a belt, filter, coil, or repair a tire.

Between inuvik and tuk you will pass a work site and camp at a former DEW line site called Bar C. It's on Richardson Island. I'm managing that job, the camp is open to the public, stop in and say hi. The local guys we got working know the area like the backs of their hands, some great ice fishing within walking distance of camp. We'll be shutting down before the end of march though, but if you see us working, stop by and I'll buy ya lunch, lol.

[300magman]

I should mention that our camp won't be in for about 10-12 more days...we're building our road off the GNWT road, but we should have it thick enough to start moving in iron and the camp pretty quick.

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by 300magman

Between inuvik and tuk you will pass a work site and camp at a former DEW line site called Bar C. It's on Richardson Island. I'm managing that job, the camp is open to the public, stop in and say hi. The local guys we got working know the area like the backs of their hands, some great ice fishing within walking distance of camp. We'll be shutting down before the end of march though, but if you see us working, stop by and I'll buy ya lunch, lol.

Sounds good, thanks! I am thinking that I will probably end up passing that spot around the 24th. Rough guessing.

Still considering, going a little later to coincide with the Muskrat Festival and cariboo crossing. Though I don't want to push it and would rather come back on "dry" ice rather than water covered ice. Or can a person count on that happening later?

[YeeHaw]

Make sure you have lots of fuel. My better half was shuttling trucks up to Fort Good Hope earlier this winter and says that a few of the towns will not sell fuel to non locals due to limited supply. Also rooms are limited, she says sometimes they could not book in till 3am because other crews were in there.

[coastalhunter]

Dry towns aren't a problem, just don't display your alcohol.

[Dean2]

S have spent a lot of time in that area, including living in Tsiig, and Inuvik. I remeber driving the Dempster the first year it was open and quite a few times after that. If your main desire is to experience the ice road I have a different suggestion. The Dempster in winter is a lousy drive with very little to see that is of any interest at all, and it is a long ways just to get to the Dempster. On top of that you are going to have 2 or 3 hours of light a day so most of the trip will be in the dark.

If it were me, I would fly to Inuvik, rent a vehicle and drive from there. If you want to check out Tsiig it is a short drive south of Inuvik. Other than Tsiig there isn't much of anything on the Dempster and even Tsiig is basically just a river crossing on the MacKenzie with one store, a couple of rooms to rent and no restaurant. (If you drive take at least two spares and 50 gallons min of spare fuel. If your vehicle gets less than 20 mpg, take 100 gallons. Make sure you have the ability to survive at least a couple of days on your own. Carry cash and lots of it, the locals don't take cheques and lots of places don't take credit cards or debit).

If you want another adventure to try there is a real long ice road experience. Drive to Yellowknife, much more interesting drive with a whole lot more to see and do, and take the ice road(s) that goes way the heck up past the diamond mines.

Best of luck on your trip.

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by Dean2

S have spent a lot of time in that area, including living in Tsiig, and Inuvik. I remeber driving the Dempster the first year it was open and quite a few times after that. If your main desire is to experience the ice road I have a different suggestion. The Dempster in winter is a lousy drive with very little to see that is of any interest at all, and it is a long ways just to get to the Dempster. On top of that you are going to have 2 or 3 hours of light a day so most of the trip will be in the dark.

If it were me, I would fly to Inuvik, rent a vehicle and drive from there. If you want to check out Tsiig it is a short drive south of Inuvik. Other than Tsiig there isn't much of anything on the Dempster and even Tsiig is basically just a river crossing on the MacKenzie with one store, a couple of rooms to rent and no restaurant. (If you drive take at least two spares and 50 gallons min of spare fuel. If your vehicle gets less than 20 mpg, take 100 gallons. Make sure you have the ability to survive at least a couple of days on your own. Carry cash and lots of it, the locals don't take cheques and lots of places don't take credit cards or debit).

If you want another adventure to try there is a real long ice road experience. Drive to Yellowknife, much more interesting drive with a whole lot more to see and do, and take the ice road(s) that goes way the heck up past the diamond mines.

Best of luck on your trip.

Still wanted to do the Dempster. And part of the appeal is the distance and lack of people around. I know the actual ice road stretch is fairly short, but this would likely be the only time I will be out on the Bering Sea ice.

Would rather drive, take my time, and be on my own watch with a vehicle I am familiar with.

Thanks for the tips.

[nimrod]

Ill donate a few freeze died food packs to you for your trip, just in case, or maybe a barter for this or that currency, pm me your address if you wish

[Au revoir, Gopher]

Rick has been busy maintaining the road for you

https://youtu.be/La50LCID2e8

ARG

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by nimrod

Ill donate a few freeze died food packs to you for your trip, just in case, or maybe a barter for this or that currency, pm me your address if you wish

Very nice offer. Thank you!

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by Au revoir, Gopher

Rick has been busy maintaining the road for you

https://youtu.be/La50LCID2e8

ARG

Good ole' Rick! He's a bit of a lib, but I like him. That'll be me all over the place on the ice. Looking down into it. Do a couple donuts.

I wonder if chains are a real important thing?

[Tactical Lever]

Heard someplace that the caribou migration can close a road?

[IronNoggin]

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever

Heard someplace that the caribou migration can close a road?

Absolutely. Happens each spring and fall. Picture the entire Porcupine Herd at somewhere around 200,000 strong wandering across the road. Can be shut down for days...

Used to live in Inuvik for many years. Quite familiar with the whole area as a consequence.

Few thoughts:

Tuk itself is a "Dry Community". Bootleggers of any kind are hammered by the law. AK is the same.

The Dempster is one long, lonely stretch of road.
Pack at least two spares, chains, spare fuel and any parts you might be the least suspicious of.

Pack sufficient food, water and survival gear to last at minimum a week.
Had buddies stranded in storms longer than that.
Warm clothing and sleeping bags. Lots.

Volumes of Cash. EVERYTHING is expensive compared to anywhere South of Sixty.

An ice auger will be completely useless anywhere along your route. The ice will be well in excess of 4 feet thick, and damn hard compared to what most Albertans are used to. We drilled through 17 feet at times - powered truck mounted units.

While the whole McKenzie freezes, it will have soft spots, and broken ice fields / drifts of immense proportions - you DO NOT want to wander off the road! Folks die up there every single year on the road. Wander away, no-one knows where to find your body... Really - stick with the roads. Far too much can / will go wrong off of them!

End of an era that ice road shutting down. Good time to take it in before it's over. Loads of fond memories up that way.

Enjoy your run, take loads of pictures to share, and Be Safe!

Cheers,
Nog of The North

PS: Feel free to pm if you have any questions I can help with...

[Tactical Lever]

Originally Posted by IronNoggin

Absolutely. Happens each spring and fall. Picture the entire Porcupine Herd at somewhere around 200,000 strong wandering across the road. Can be shut down for days...

Used to live in Inuvik for many years. Quite familiar with the whole area as a consequence.

Few thoughts:

Tuk itself is a "Dry Community". Bootleggers of any kind are hammered by the law. AK is the same.

The Dempster is one long, lonely stretch of road.
Pack at least two spares, chains, spare fuel and any parts you might be the least suspicious of.

Pack sufficient food, water and survival gear to last at minimum a week.
Had buddies stranded in storms longer than that.
Warm clothing and sleeping bags. Lots.

Volumes of Cash. EVERYTHING is expensive compared to anywhere South of Sixty.

An ice auger will be completely useless anywhere along your route. The ice will be well in excess of 4 feet thick, and damn hard compared to what most Albertans are used to. We drilled through 17 feet at times - powered truck mounted units.

While the whole McKenzie freezes, it will have soft spots, and broken ice fields / drifts of immense proportions - you DO NOT want to wander off the road! Folks die up there every single year on the road. Wander away, no-one knows where to find your body... Really - stick with the roads. Far too much can / will go wrong off of them!

End of an era that ice road shutting down. Good time to take it in before it's over. Loads of fond memories up that way.

Enjoy your run, take loads of pictures to share, and Be Safe!

Cheers,
Nog of The North

PS: Feel free to pm if you have any questions I can help with...

Thanks for that. You're making a good case for chains. Would a pair be sufficient?

[IronNoggin]

Originally Posted by Tactical Lever

Thanks for that. You're making a good case for chains. Would a pair be sufficient?

Most likely. If you have another set though (or can borrow) it certainly wouldn't hurt to have them aboard.

I recall one run home from Tuk following a storm when the plows were making extremely slow progress. Had enough of the wait after the third day, chained up all four, and pushed snow over the hood for 25 or so miles until I got to the windswept areas. Left them on, all the way home...

Cheers,
Nog