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08-05-2020, 04:11 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 11,858
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Trailer jacks with wheels
Ok,
So maybe I'm getting old, fat and lazy - but for pete's sake the jack on my boat trailer drives me nuts. I have to crank the handle 4 million times to raise or lower it and it moves like 1/10th of a millimeter at a time.
This is the most physical task I seem to have to endure while hitching and unhitching my trailer and there MUST be better jacks out there !!!!!
Seem ridiculous the Shoreland'r Lund trailer has 4 2x6 full length bunks, the best LED lights, top quality brakes but the jack is a POS.
Has anyone ever swapped these out OR am I just getting annoyed with nothing here?
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08-05-2020, 04:32 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Stony Plain
Posts: 6,642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EZM
Ok,
So maybe I'm getting old, fat and lazy - but for pete's sake the jack on my boat trailer drives me nuts. I have to crank the handle 4 million times to raise or lower it and it moves like 1/10th of a millimeter at a time.
This is the most physical task I seem to have to endure while hitching and unhitching my trailer and there MUST be better jacks out there !!!!!
Seem ridiculous the Shoreland'r Lund trailer has 4 2x6 full length bunks, the best LED lights, top quality brakes but the jack is a POS.
Has anyone ever swapped these out OR am I just getting annoyed with nothing here?
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Cut the crank off and weld a 3/4” nut on . Then use the cordless drill to raise and lower. Easy Peasy. Bring er out to Stony and I’ll weld it on for you.
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08-05-2020, 04:51 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 537
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If the wheel is spinning in circles while your cranking the handle then it will take a million turns if this is happening try stopping the wheel from spinning with your foot while you crank and it’ll go faster especially on the jack that have a top crank handle. I have to do just that on my boat trailer.
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08-05-2020, 05:07 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: calgary ab
Posts: 2,703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 204ruger
If the wheel is spinning in circles while your cranking the handle then it will take a million turns if this is happening try stopping the wheel from spinning with your foot while you crank and it’ll go faster especially on the jack that have a top crank handle. I have to do just that on my boat trailer.
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Yup this ^^^
Mine is a pain when I go from the motor home to the truck different hitch heights and different ball height.
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08-05-2020, 08:22 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Alberta for the most part
Posts: 2,811
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I saw a motorized hitch somewhere , lifted the trailer and away you go, just have to find the company that makes them.
kind of like this
https://www.amazon.com/Tow-Tuff-Adju...3SX88AVD99RWBC
Last edited by nimrod; 08-05-2020 at 08:28 PM.
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08-06-2020, 08:35 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Somewhere north of Edmonton
Posts: 616
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I'm not sure I understand.
When I park my boat, or travel trailer, I leave them at the height they're at when I disconnect. Then when I go to reconnect, I just drive under it. No raising or lowering.
Why are you lowering your boat trailer after unhitching it?
__________________
It matters not how straight the gate,
How charged with punishments the scroll,
I am master of my fate:
I am the captain of my soul.
***William Henley***
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08-06-2020, 08:57 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 2,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CptnBlues63
I'm not sure I understand.
When I park my boat, or travel trailer, I leave them at the height they're at when I disconnect. Then when I go to reconnect, I just drive under it. No raising or lowering.
Why are you lowering your boat trailer after unhitching it?
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Once I disconnect what ever it is I am parking, I always lift the hitch/ball at least 6" just so water etc is running off, out the rear.
Now the only problem with this method is that you have to be so careful backing up as to not collide with your tailgate, if you go to far.....
Good luck,
__________________
Life is like baseball; it is the number of times you reach home safely, that counts.
We have two lives: The life we learn with and the life we live with after that.
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08-06-2020, 08:59 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 6,266
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Keep a 6x6 or 8x8 block handy to place under jack and do not crank All the way in, simple.
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08-06-2020, 09:13 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 11,858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 204ruger
If the wheel is spinning in circles while your cranking the handle then it will take a million turns if this is happening try stopping the wheel from spinning with your foot while you crank and it’ll go faster especially on the jack that have a top crank handle. I have to do just that on my boat trailer.
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No, that's not the issue, I do put my foot on the spinning wheel to stop it from rotating - which makes it that much more awkward when cranking it.
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08-06-2020, 09:16 AM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Stony Plain
Posts: 6,642
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Princess auto sells trailer jacks , they are easy enough to remove and replace
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08-06-2020, 09:25 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 11,858
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I leave the jack "high" when the boat is in the garage and do have a 4 sided "box" I built out of 2x8's to keep it up that level but after hooking up, I have to raise the jack all the way and swivel it so I can drive to the lake.
I guess this issue precepted itself after this last vacation where I had to launch and repeat this process a few times and it occurred to me why the gear ratio was so slow on the crank. Maybe a simple $80 jack purchased and installed would solve my belly aching.And maybe someone has replaced one before and has a brand to try they have tried - I can't be the only one that this annoys.
Also, because the swivel interferes with the trailer where it flares out and a marker light to the opposite side, I pretty much have to "toe hold" the wheel as I crank it ALL THE WAY up in order to swivel it to clear the marker light and trailer frame.
Then ALL THE WAY down (and this starts with my foot hovering over the ground, holding the wheel from spinning, for the first minute or so of cranking, then another minute to get it up all the way to release the ball).
I guess I was hoping for advice on maybe a brand of jacks that have some other features like maybe a high speed (or two speed) crank OR some sort of solution. I'm keeping this boat for a long time, so I'd rather swap that jack out now as I'm not happy with it anyway - seems like the weak link in an otherwise great trailer.
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08-06-2020, 10:18 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: calgary ab
Posts: 2,703
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EZM I'm thinking that the tongue length at the front of your trailer is a short one. Why I say is cause I don't have to raise the leg on mine all the way to store it. I get it about 1-2 inch (at most) off my round patio block and snap into place. That is with my truck but as mentioned before motor home is lower and have to retract almost all up. I get what your saying. Mine doesn't really take forever to crank either way unless you consider 30 turns forever. There might be some jacks that have different gears in them so maybe have to search for trl's that carry a 30 ft boat. Or like mentioned before cordless drill. Mine would probably be 15 turns at most to get above my 2 in ball hitch to release and another 30 or so to full extension. If your charging your boat batteries then the cordless drill could be added. Just saying. Hope you find a solution.
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08-06-2020, 10:36 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 11,858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barbless
EZM I'm thinking that the tongue length at the front of your trailer is a short one. Why I say is cause I don't have to raise the leg on mine all the way to store it. I get it about 1-2 inch (at most) off my round patio block and snap into place. That is with my truck but as mentioned before motor home is lower and have to retract almost all up. I get what your saying. Mine doesn't really take forever to crank either way unless you consider 30 turns forever. There might be some jacks that have different gears in them so maybe have to search for trl's that carry a 30 ft boat. Or like mentioned before cordless drill. Mine would probably be 15 turns at most to get above my 2 in ball hitch to release and another 30 or so to full extension. If your charging your boat batteries then the cordless drill could be added. Just saying. Hope you find a solution.
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Yes, it's a fold away tongue and I had it cut "short" so it does line up under the front of the bow (and doesn't extend) ahead of the bow because of the garage space constraints. With the motors, the total length I am at is 22'4" and my garage is 23' deep so, you are correct, that creates interference.
I put a 1/2" closed cell insulation foam on the wall so when I roll the trailer back the engine, touches the back garage wall so the door will clear.
I have researched a bit and I am looking at a Marine Heavy Duty 1500lb extruded tube 2 speed jack which might be the ticket. I can leave the one in place as a spare and install the jack on the frame on the opposite side.
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08-06-2020, 11:21 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oz
Posts: 2,124
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It could be worse. I’ve got a sloped drive way and have to raise the front of my boat a loooooong way to get the water to flow out the back.
I use a jackall to pick it up so I don’t have to work to spin the crank. The gear ratio is so low because you have to be able to lift the tongue weight with a 4” long handle. There are probably electric options which might work if they’re waterproof or you never dunk it. Cordless impact as mentioned.
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08-06-2020, 01:11 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Stony Plain
Posts: 6,642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EZM
I leave the jack "high" when the boat is in the garage and do have a 4 sided "box" I built out of 2x8's to keep it up that level but after hooking up, I have to raise the jack all the way and swivel it so I can drive to the lake.
I guess this issue precepted itself after this last vacation where I had to launch and repeat this process a few times and it occurred to me why the gear ratio was so slow on the crank. Maybe a simple $80 jack purchased and installed would solve my belly aching.And maybe someone has replaced one before and has a brand to try they have tried - I can't be the only one that this annoys.
Also, because the swivel interferes with the trailer where it flares out and a marker light to the opposite side, I pretty much have to "toe hold" the wheel as I crank it ALL THE WAY up in order to swivel it to clear the marker light and trailer frame.
Then ALL THE WAY down (and this starts with my foot hovering over the ground, holding the wheel from spinning, for the first minute or so of cranking, then another minute to get it up all the way to release the ball).
I guess I was hoping for advice on maybe a brand of jacks that have some other features like maybe a high speed (or two speed) crank OR some sort of solution. I'm keeping this boat for a long time, so I'd rather swap that jack out now as I'm not happy with it anyway - seems like the weak link in an otherwise great trailer.
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So loosen the jack frame and move it forward on the draw bar. Not complicated. I have replaced several trailer jacks with princess auto jacks and they work just fine. They have several different style ,even one you can pull right off the swivel or re attach with a pin.
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08-06-2020, 01:49 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 11,858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleboy
So loosen the jack frame and move it forward on the draw bar. Not complicated. I have replaced several trailer jacks with princess auto jacks and they work just fine. They have several different style ,even one you can pull right off the swivel or re attach with a pin.
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Can't - the swivel base is welded to the frame and finished with the trailer itself. Either way - the plate, which is on the straight "stem" is as close to the front as it can be before it interferes with the "swing away hinge" - I might gain an inch maybe - I looked at that.
I have a "heavier upgraded" trailer so the curved rails are pretty far forward compared to a "normal sized" trailer. That also is part of the problem as I have to go ALL the way up and ALL the way down every damned time (hundreds of turns as I'm balanced on one foot holding the wheel with my toe).
Such a pain.
Nevertheless - all of the contributions got me to thinking and I think the option is to mount a new plate on one of the curved rails slightly off center - I have seen that done before and it seems to work - so I may do that (and upgrade the jack at the same time anyways) and leave the crappy one mounted there (as a spare I guess).
At least that way it's only a couple inches up to clear and swivel and a couple inches down each time instead of having to lift/lower the full 12" each damned time in both directions.
At 10 revolutions per inch - and minus 8 inches of travel with the new jack - that will save my tired, fat butt about 160 spins and cranks while precariously balanced ….. lol.
I like the drill idea - but a dead battery would suck and maybe a ratchet backup would work - but heck - bolting on a new one seems to be the most pragmatic solution.
This will be the best $80 I will ever spend !!!!!!
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08-06-2020, 03:12 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EZM
This will be the best $80 I will ever spend !!!!!!
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You are kidding, right?
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08-06-2020, 03:23 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EZM
This will be the best $80 I will ever spend !!!!!!
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You are kidding, right?
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08-06-2020, 04:10 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EZM
This will be the best $80 I will ever spend !!!!!!
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You are kidding, right?
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08-06-2020, 04:20 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: calgary ab
Posts: 2,703
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Well I'd imagine being out there catching and reeling in those fish would be tiring enough to not want to have to deal with the jack
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08-06-2020, 04:22 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EZM
This will be the best $80 I will ever spend !!!!!!
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You are kidding, right?
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