Caliber recommendation needed

[Pekan]

Here's another perspective:
One detail that shouldn't be overlooked is the rifle itself, not just it's caliber. Every caliber mentioned has the energy to kill moose, if shot placement is correct.

Lots of new hunters go for a rifle/scope combo from the local outdoor store. Like a Savage Axis II, or a Mossberg Patriot, with an entry level optic on it. If this is you, consider this:

Just like everything else in life, there are quality levels of bolt action rifles and rifle scopes. If you're a very casual hunter who plans on hunting deer a few days per year and only wants to shoot out to 150 yards, you can probably get by with an entry level rifle/scope.
Most hunters will eventually want to reach out further.

I suggest you watch some youtube videos on the capabilities of some of the more entry level rifles. Some of them are only capable of 3 MOA while shooting off a bench. (off by 3" at 100 yards) Like I mentioned, this is fine at 150 yards. At 300 yards your bullet could be off target by 9" in any direction. This is a recipe for a bad day for your moose and for you. This doesn't factor in the optic. If it can't hold zero after being bumped around all day you've got more problems.

So I'd suggest you be less concerned with specific calibers and first make sure the tool has the capabilities to do what you need it to.

Just one guys opinion...

[aardvaark]

As I said above….

I was with my buddy this fall when he shot his moose with a 243. Went down like a rock. Yes, it was well-placed, a very steep quartering-away, at 50 yds, it turned its head to look at said hunter, and got one right behind the ear.

The biggest target on a moose is his vitals - likely about 12-16” circle, depending on the moose, and who you ask. And a moose’s rib cage is not that hard to penetrate. A 270 has lots of power to break a rib on the way in, do it’s destruction while in there, and break another rib on the way out. And do that anywhere under 300 yds, maybe a lot more.

Best advice: do as much shooting with your 270 as you possibly can. You’ve got a whole year till next moose season. Try to simulate as many different shooting scenarios as you can, so you can shoot that 270 and know exactly where that bullet is going to hit. Best target practice I ever got was shooting gophers with a 22. From a quad, from a pickup, from a tree branch, off your knees, freehand. Another good way to practice is to dry fire your rifle in your house. Totally harmless to any bolt action I’m familiar with. Or get or make a snap cap and dry fire on that. Hold the rifle with the sights on a small target and get so you can squeeze that trigger without the sight coming off the target, in any position.

And think about the money and all the fun you’ll save not buying a different gun haha

[1Heavyhitr]

Originally Posted by Joe Btfsplk

I like the 270 and have confidence with it. My preference would be to stick with it!

Perfect conclusion! Read less. Shoot more. If you can’t kill it with a 270, your truck won’t haul it either. Here’s a little reassurance, Keith Warren shoots everything with a 270 win and 130gr Nosler partitions.

Alaskan Moose https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PkNdVEzNvHE&t=174s

African game such as Black Wildebeest at 512 yards & giraffe https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9toIuVBR0bg

Red stag https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SUDN02KyhM0

… you don’t “need” anything bigger than your 270. Now, if you “want” something else, go for it.

[gunluvr]

Here's another perspective...you sound like you've caught the bug and want to branch out your shooting recreation. Depending where you live that could be predator hunting, (coyotes) maybe gophers? Maybe game birds and waterfowl? Lots of options including just target shooting. As for the .270...if it's a solid reliable rifle, by all means keep it as its one of the most versatile and recommended calibers of them all.

[brass410]

you've got all the reasons you need to justify another tool in the tool box just get it !! We have all been there " man I really wish I had bought that new ---- I wouldnt be doing this now if I had". Besides I havent heard anybody say I have too many rifles, get it while you can It wont be long till we're using sling shot and spitball tubes the way the anti gun crowds going. However 270 is a pretty venerable little gun and has put lots of food in the pot dont just give up on it.

[bcpappy]

When I started spending money on guns I said I would never overlap calibers. Lol well I didn't stick to that plan, I have bought guns just because I seen them on the shelf knowing that gun in that caliber is hard to find. I have a few that don't really do much different than the others but its fun getting new guns! Go ahead and find a 300 that you like and enjoy using it.

[antlercarver]

.270 is more than enough. I have one shot killed many moose with
a .250 and the last 30 years a .243 Only need of a heavier gun may be if
you hunt in grizzly country.

[raab]

Originally Posted by Dewey Cox

You should get a 27-06.

[raab]

As others have said the 270 will work just fine with proper shot placement and a well-constructed bullet. The big downfall of the 270 is that it doesn't allow for heavier-weight bullets. Which is why the 6.8 Western was developed.

With Moose, you usually don't have to take shots over 150 yards, so investing in a 300WM for that to me seems overkill. The 308 and 30-06 with 180gn bullets will do the job just as well, and you're more likely to shoot them accurately due to the recoil.

In saying that if you were going for Elk and expected 300+ yard shots, I'd start looking at one of the bigger 300 Magnums like 300 Weatherby, 300WM, 300WSM, 300RUM which is where they really start to shine.

The big downfall of magnums is they're usually heavier, longer and a pain to drag around. If you're planning on walking lots I'd stick to a 308 or 3006. You wouldn't be the first hunter with a 270 and a 3006 in the safe.

Now, all that said it's really up to you what you want to do. I used a 270 with the 140gn AB for a long time and it performs. I find the kick is sharper than from the 3006 and 308 even though in theory they're supposed to recoil more. I've also killed Moose, Elk, and Deer with my 308 and have no problem recommending it within reasonable hunting distances.

When I go hunting I take the rifle I'm most accurate with that will give me enough energy to kill the animal. If you practice with your 270 to the point you're confident, I'm sure you'll be happy if you get the chance at a shot on a moose. I've seen guys take them with a 25-06, so no doubt the 270 will do it. If you want the best gun for the job I don't think you'd be disappointed going up to a 3006 with a 180gn bullet and practicing with that. Either way, have fun, that's what it's all about.

[partsman]

My father and late brother used a 270 for years, no issue.

[270person]

Best thing to do is probably to ignore any advice throwing shade on your 270 and suggesting that moving up to .308 cal bullets fired from a .308 rifle or similar are some sort of magical moose and elk killers in comparison, because they just aren't. Hitting an animal in the right place is a lot more important than what you hit them with and that can't be said enough.

If you shoot the 270 well stay with it. 150gr bullets through a 270 get overlooked by many but will outperform many of the larger cal alternatives that have been offered up as suggestions. Nosler partitions on elk and moose perform very well as do a number of other quality bullets shot through a 270. Don't be shy about using 130gr bullets either, particularly the Barnes TTSX.

[Pekan]

Originally Posted by 270person

Best thing to do is probably to ignore any advice throwing shade on your 270 and suggesting that moving up to .308 cal bullets fired from a .308 rifle or similar are some sort of magical moose and elk killers in comparison, because they just aren't. Hitting an animal in the right place is a lot more important than what you hit them with and that can't be said enough.

If you shoot the 270 well stay with it. 150gr bullets through a 270 get overlooked by many but will outperform many of the larger cal alternatives that have been offered up as suggestions. Nosler partitions on elk and moose perform very well as do a number of other quality bullets shot through a 270. Don't be shy about using 130gr bullets either, particularly the Barnes TTSX.

Couldn't agree more.
I just ordered a Sauer S100 in 270 win. I'm really looking forward to getting this rifle and seeing what it can do. I'll be hunting elk with it for sure, no question.

[338wea]

The 270 would be perfectly fine, it's all down to the right bullet in the right place

[ame4862]

I have taken many moose with the .270 using partitions and accubonds. None have gone more than 100yards so far.

[Big Grey Wolf]

A little lady from Slave Lake killed the largest grizzly ever shot in Alberta with a 22 rabbit gun. A trapper friend would kill his moose each year with 22 long rifle
bullet. Not recommended but ANY center fire rifle will kill a moose, just need to get close. Your 270 is more than enough gun if you shoot well.

[Albertajeff]

At this point in time if i were starting in this rifle game first thing i would do is walk down the Ammo isles and take a look what's available and start from there. I reload with stock that I've had for years but if i was buying ammunition for them I'd be in trouble by both availability and cost.

[270person]

Originally Posted by Big Grey Wolf

Your 270 is more than enough gun if you shoot well.

Which of course can be said for any cartridge deemed big game hunting legal. .243 - 500 NE. If you don't shoot well the heaviest cartridge in the world won't help you.

[ghfalls]

Originally Posted by aardvaark

As I said above….

I was with my buddy this fall when he shot his moose with a 243. Went down like a rock. Yes, it was well-placed, a very steep quartering-away, at 50 yds, it turned its head to look at said hunter, and got one right behind the ear.

The biggest target on a moose is his vitals - likely about 12-16” circle, depending on the moose, and who you ask. And a moose’s rib cage is not that hard to penetrate. A 270 has lots of power to break a rib on the way in, do it’s destruction while in there, and break another rib on the way out. And do that anywhere under 300 yds, maybe a lot more.

Best advice: do as much shooting with your 270 as you possibly can. You’ve got a whole year till next moose season. Try to simulate as many different shooting scenarios as you can, so you can shoot that 270 and know exactly where that bullet is going to hit. Best target practice I ever got was shooting gophers with a 22. From a quad, from a pickup, from a tree branch, off your knees, freehand. Another good way to practice is to dry fire your rifle in your house. Totally harmless to any bolt action I’m familiar with. Or get or make a snap cap and dry fire on that. Hold the rifle with the sights on a small target and get so you can squeeze that trigger without the sight coming off the target, in any position.

And think about the money and all the fun you’ll save not buying a different gun haha

Great advice here

[Hunter Trav]

Originally Posted by Pekan

Here's another perspective:
One detail that shouldn't be overlooked is the rifle itself, not just it's caliber. Every caliber mentioned has the energy to kill moose, if shot placement is correct.

Lots of new hunters go for a rifle/scope combo from the local outdoor store. Like a Savage Axis II, or a Mossberg Patriot, with an entry level optic on it. If this is you, consider this:

Just like everything else in life, there are quality levels of bolt action rifles and rifle scopes. If you're a very casual hunter who plans on hunting deer a few days per year and only wants to shoot out to 150 yards, you can probably get by with an entry level rifle/scope.
Most hunters will eventually want to reach out further.

I suggest you watch some youtube videos on the capabilities of some of the more entry level rifles. Some of them are only capable of 3 MOA while shooting off a bench. (off by 3" at 100 yards) Like I mentioned, this is fine at 150 yards. At 300 yards your bullet could be off target by 9" in any direction. This is a recipe for a bad day for your moose and for you. This doesn't factor in the optic. If it can't hold zero after being bumped around all day you've got more problems.

So I'd suggest you be less concerned with specific calibers and first make sure the tool has the capabilities to do what you need it to.

Just one guys opinion...

Savage Axis rifles are more then capable to reaching out past 150 yrds. Don't believe everything you see on youtube...lol

[Cageyc]

I went from a 300 win mag with no brake to a 280 AI with the brake, whatever your choice consider a brake. Yes they are louder but the recoil is greatly reduced. A real confidence builder for sure.

[freeride]

Originally Posted by Pekan

Here's another perspective:
One detail that shouldn't be overlooked is the rifle itself, not just it's caliber. Every caliber mentioned has the energy to kill moose, if shot placement is correct.

Lots of new hunters go for a rifle/scope combo from the local outdoor store. Like a Savage Axis II, or a Mossberg Patriot, with an entry level optic on it. If this is you, consider this:

Just like everything else in life, there are quality levels of bolt action rifles and rifle scopes. If you're a very casual hunter who plans on hunting deer a few days per year and only wants to shoot out to 150 yards, you can probably get by with an entry level rifle/scope.
Most hunters will eventually want to reach out further.

I suggest you watch some youtube videos on the capabilities of some of the more entry level rifles. Some of them are only capable of 3 MOA while shooting off a bench. (off by 3" at 100 yards) Like I mentioned, this is fine at 150 yards. At 300 yards your bullet could be off target by 9" in any direction. This is a recipe for a bad day for your moose and for you. This doesn't factor in the optic. If it can't hold zero after being bumped around all day you've got more problems.

So I'd suggest you be less concerned with specific calibers and first make sure the tool has the capabilities to do what you need it to.

Just one guys opinion...

Most entry rifles are far more capable then that, it's the shooter that isn't. Lots of videos out there too of experienced shooters taking entry level rifles and doing amazing things.

And a 3 MOA rifle technically could shoot a 9 inch circle at 300... but that isn't off by 9 inches at any direction.
At 100 it would be a 3 inch circle, hopefully you adjust so the bullseye is in the center, putting the bullets at max 1.5 inches off at any direction, not 3 inches in any direction... otherwise you have a whopping 9 MOA gun.

[raab]

Originally Posted by freeride

Most entry rifles are far more capable then that, it's the shooter that isn't. Lots of videos out there too of experienced shooters taking entry level rifles and doing amazing things.

And a 3 MOA rifle technically could shoot a 9 inch circle at 300... but that isn't off by 9 inches at any direction.
At 100 it would be a 3 inch circle, hopefully you adjust so the bullseye is in the center, putting the bullets at max 1.5 inches off at any direction, not 3 inches in any direction... otherwise you have a whopping 9 MOA gun.

I agree both my Ruger Americans have been sub-MOA. On one I had to re-torque the actions screws and sand a bit off the stock around the barrel.

The cheap guns will shoot. They save money on the crap stocks they come with, and the horrible bluing. I took my Ruger American on a sheep hunt and it was starting to rust after one night in the tent.

Also, the barrels on cheap guns are usually mounted with a barrel nut whereas the better guns the barrel threads right into the action.

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by raab

Also, the barrels on cheap guns are usually mounted with a barrel nut whereas the better guns the barrel threads right into the action.

We are beginning to see more semi custom guns and aftermarket barrels being offered with barrel nuts on them.
One should not automatically equate " cheap" with " inexpensive"
Barrel buts speed up production , but accurate rifles are still built with them.
Cat

[raab]

Originally Posted by catnthehat

We are beginning to see more semi custom guns and aftermarket barrels being offered with barrel nuts on them.
One should not automatically equate " cheap" with " inexpensive"
Barrel buts speed up production , but accurate rifles are still built with them.
Cat

The nut doesn't affect the accuracy but could affect how inline it is with the action. Barrels that thread straight into the action should be square, whereas the barrel nut could torque the barrels slightly in one direction or another. Easily adjusted for with a half-decent scope.

In saying that people have definitely built some nice guns on the "entry-level" actions.

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by raab

The nut doesn't affect the accuracy but could affect how inline it is with the action. Barrels that thread straight into the action should be square, whereas the barrel nut could torque the barrels slightly in one direction or another. Easily adjusted for with a half-decent scope.

In saying that people have definitely built some nice guns on the "entry-level" actions.

I have seen some very bad barrel alignment jobs from a couple of well known shops, one was at least 1/8" off center. Whether or not the barrel is aligned is up to the person cutting the threads, not the method used.
Hell, Anschutz and several other brands of extremely accurate smallbore guns use pressed barrels, and one very well known manufacturer of match rifles used built their rifles with the bolt lugs locking into the barrel itself!
Cat

[raab]

Originally Posted by catnthehat

I have seen some very bad barrel alignment jobs from a couple of well known shops, one was at least 1/8" off center. Whether or not the barrel is aligned is up to the person cutting the threads, not the method used.
Hell, Anschutz and several other brands of extremely accurate smallbore guns use pressed barrels, and one very well known manufacturer of match rifles used built their rifles with the bolt lugs locking into the barrel itself!
Cat

The tikka/sako barrels are so precise you can basically thread them in and they’ll be head-spaced from what I hear. Someone brought up the differences between cheap and more expensive guns. I’m just telling you what I know at least from factory offerings. The fact is the more expensive center fire bolt action rifles don’t have a barrel nut like the cheaper Savages, and Rugers. Nothing wrong with the cheaper guns, but they’re not as refined as a well made Sako.

[marky_mark]

Originally Posted by raab

The tikka/sako barrels are so precise you can basically thread them in and they’ll be head-spaced from what I hear. Someone brought up the differences between cheap and more expensive guns. I’m just telling you what I know at least from factory offerings. The fact is the more expensive center fire bolt action rifles don’t have a barrel nut like the cheaper Savages, and Rugers. Nothing wrong with the cheaper guns, but they’re not as refined as a well made Sako.

A lot of custom actions now have their threads timed. This way you can order a prefit high end barrel that is shouldered and headspaced without having to send in your action to a gunsmith to get it done. A lot of custom barrels also come with a barrel nut so that you can do the headspacing with go and no go gauges yourself. Same barrel, same quality, just a different way to dial in the headspacing

[JCart]

Originally Posted by Joe Btfsplk

I like the 270 and have confidence with it. My preference would be to stick with it!

The venerable .270 is a great calibre and has stood the test of time for a reason. Ive been fortunate to harvest lotsa animals with mine since the mid eighties. Given it appears you have will keep yours, invest in a quality recoil pad and high quality scope. Take to the range and shoot it so you are very comfortable at distances you intend to shoot game at. You could also install a muzzle brake on it as well.
Happy hunting/shooting.
j

[densa44]

That's what my grandfather shot many moose with in New Brunswick. I was a child when I asked him where he shot te moose, and he answered "behind the ear", my next question was "what if he is pointing the wrong way", he looked at me and said "you just wait until he turns around!"
He was shooting the rifle wit iron sights.
The lesson I took from this conversation is the waiting part. If you are able to wait and pick your shot any gun will work.
Good luck, I'd stick with the .270.

[raab]

Originally Posted by marky_mark

A lot of custom actions now have their threads timed. This way you can order a prefit high end barrel that is shouldered and headspaced without having to send in your action to a gunsmith to get it done. A lot of custom barrels also come with a barrel nut so that you can do the headspacing with go and no go gauges yourself. Same barrel, same quality, just a different way to dial in the headspacing

I’m not sure how it went from the differences between a cheap factory gun and a more expensive gun to custom guns. All I’m saying is cheap guns will shoot, accuracy isn’t necessarily why you should buy a more expensive gun. The bluing/barrel coating, trigger, stock, and way the barrel attaches/machining are what you’re paying for. Well worth paying the extra to jump up to something like a Tikka IMO if you can afford it.