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Old 08-20-2012, 10:02 AM
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fortyseven fortyseven is offline
 
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Default How to identify SKS matching numbers - where to look etc?

Hi, I'm buying a SKS this week, and am looking for a good model. I already know to check the rifling in the bore, and to clean the heck out of it when I get it etc, but I'd like to get a model with matching numbers. Anyone with a SKS or with SKS experience know where I should look for matching numbers?
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Old 08-20-2012, 10:19 AM
Woodbeef Woodbeef is offline
 
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Basically,receiver,stock,bolt and carrier,trigger guard,magazine. If Russian also look underside of rear sight,gas tube,and piston.
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Old 08-20-2012, 04:10 PM
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Grizzly Adams Grizzly Adams is offline
 
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For the Soviets, just about everything out there is refurbished, parts are pooled, rifles re-assembled and new serial numbers electro penciled. Not likely to find matching numbers and I wouldn't worry about it . these things are primarily shooters. Could buy a new Chinese. Some good deals on those. Like to have a Yugo, but looking at a 500 price tag.

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Old 08-20-2012, 04:47 PM
gitrdun gitrdun is offline
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The numbers are fairly large, you should be able to easily identify them. The obvious locations are on the left side of the receiver, bottom of the magazine and mine has it even on the bottom of the trigger guard. The current one in my arsenal is Chinese, it easily prints 1.5" @ 100 yards, but. If you scope it, this will be usually on the bolt shroud. This part is a bit sloppy and you will have to make some slight mods to get a decent group with it as I did. This involves drilling and tapping the ears on your new bolt shroud larger, and in my case to an SAE thread rather than metric. The screw slots are also fairly soft, I changed mine to an allen head. I also ground a point on the set screws which fit and match a dimple that I drilled into the receiver. I also added locknuts to the screws which secure the bolt shroud. The result is a steardy scope mount which you'll require to print some acceptable groups.

You'll likely find that your SKS agressively ejects, meaning that people standing 10 feet to your right may get hit with ejected brass. This means that the bolt strikes pretty hard on its rearward stroke. You can purchase a rear bumper to soften the blow, or you can tame down the gas tube by drilling a small hole in the gas tube elbow to allow some gases to escape. This method is much better as reduces the distance that brass ejects but is much easier on the bolt. That's my next to-do, making up a small adjustable valve that will release a bit of gas before it hits the gas piston.

Last edited by gitrdun; 08-20-2012 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:38 PM
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fortyseven fortyseven is offline
 
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Thanks all!
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