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  #31  
Old 01-19-2022, 06:22 PM
silver silver is offline
 
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When I moved to this town in 1980, there is a house kitty-corner to the post office that needed shingles. It got them that year or the next, it got them twenty years later, and it needs another batch.

When I built my house twenty one years ago I used tin. Every so often I go up and retighten the screws, and some day I may change out the rubber grommets.

Still cheaper than shingles every twenty years.
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  #32  
Old 01-19-2022, 07:19 PM
Supergrit Supergrit is offline
 
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I put a metal roof on it has its pros and cons. If I were to build a new house designed for a metal roof I would do it. Definitely get some one with experience putting on metal roof I don’t think my contractor knew what he was doing.
Negative about the roof I found
1. The snow stops the contractor put up ripped off ( bad on his part )
2. The snow slides off it’s like cement if you have bushes along the house going to take a beating
3. Careful with satellite dishes if things mounted on roof mine was ripped off
4. Snow curls around eaves trough it’s really hard on it almost rippes it off I knock it down with a roof rake
5. Make sure your buildings can handle the pile of snow around it my garage has sea can beside it and the snow comes down in pile when it gets warm. Can’t clear it out cause of sea can now I get water on garage floor. (Garage wasn’t built the best and will have to move sea can) I never had water on the floor with shingles

After putting tin on my roof I really don’t know if I were to do it again to the current house i own.
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  #33  
Old 01-19-2022, 07:34 PM
eagleflyfisher eagleflyfisher is online now
 
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Following this thread closely, we really want tin and just trying to get a handle on costs compared to shingles.
There is the tear off of old, ( coming off either way)
Possible sheathing repairs ?
Proper membrane or equivalent
Do we strap the roof with 1x2” etc. Material plus labour
All the various mouldings required, around skylights etc..
Additional roof vents.

One contractor proposed about 10k for about 3000 sq.ft of roof in shingles.Done

The tin is 7k for product alone.
Also concerned about finding the right contractor for the job and is ok w me supplying materials.
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  #34  
Old 01-19-2022, 08:35 PM
Brankon Brankon is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silver View Post
When I moved to this town in 1980, there is a house kitty-corner to the post office that needed shingles. It got them that year or the next, it got them twenty years later, and it needs another batch.

When I built my house twenty one years ago I used tin. Every so often I go up and retighten the screws, and some day I may change out the rubber grommets.

Still cheaper than shingles every twenty years.
How close is the strapping on the tin roof? Do you just make sure to step on screw lines when you go up on the roof to tighten the screws?
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  #35  
Old 01-19-2022, 09:06 PM
sarahfaye sarahfaye is offline
 
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My house roof was installed in 1980, have tightened some screws twice, installed a couple larger ones. Rubber's are all still there. Biggest issue was 1x4 strapping was used. Needs to be 2x4 so it doesn't crack and the ice build-up on the exposed screws in the attic. Still 15-20 years left at least. Rain here is measured in feet and snow in meters. Old local told me strapping only, no plywood or the roof or the snow will never slide.
Have built several buildings since including a 50 X 65 shop. All Tin on roof and walls, 2x6 strapping on the rafters then hd tar paper/tin. Don't over tighten screws. There is expansion, contraction. Expect they will out last me with zero maintenance. No other choice in my opinion.
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  #36  
Old 01-19-2022, 11:29 PM
antmai antmai is offline
 
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50yr concrete on the house that we are buying. Not sure what composites are out there now but surely there must be some that doesnt require a tank-built roof to support them.
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  #37  
Old 01-19-2022, 11:58 PM
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BlackHeart BlackHeart is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bat119 View Post
What the cost difference between the two? 25% or more for metal?

Can the old roof be strapped over the old shingles on an old roof?
Usually double the cost.
Don’t recommend putting metal over shingles.....that just the lazy way.....the abrasive side of the shingles will reduce your metals life span as metal does shrink and move a bit with temp changes. Plus shingles are not flat so walking on the metal over shingles can dent it.
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  #38  
Old 01-20-2022, 12:56 AM
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BlackHeart BlackHeart is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagleflyfisher View Post
Following this thread closely, we really want tin and just trying to get a handle on costs compared to shingles.
There is the tear off of old, ( coming off either way)
Possible sheathing repairs ?
Proper membrane or equivalent
Do we strap the roof with 1x2” etc. Material plus labour
All the various mouldings required, around skylights etc..
Additional roof vents.

One contractor proposed about 10k for about 3000 sq.ft of roof in shingles.Done

The tin is 7k for product alone.
Also concerned about finding the right contractor for the job and is ok w me supplying materials.
10K for 3000sq ft? Hmmm. Gotta be the cheapest shingles possible....expect 10 years and you’re doing it again.

There is no need for strapping.....maybe if the deck is thin OSB. What does strapping do? Just creates another space for bugs and squirrels. Plus you now have an area for condensation as your have moisture in air and two dissimilar temped surfaces. That condensation is going to drip off and collect along the strapping and the OSB decking.

And....with strapping you can’t walk on the roof...without a lot of difficulty.


A better option is there are high temp underlayments that give you a second level of defence, cure ice damning and is much more cost effective than strapping. Plus the one I got, protects the roof from rain and can be exposed for 6 months with no UV concerns....so you can strip the roof and put the stick on membrane and not worry about rain and an expose roof. The right membrane goes on very fast once the roof is stripped and repairs made. Can do the roof in sections also this way.

The idea is to treat the roof layers as a unit working together.....not separate items doing their own thing.

As one of the posters mentioned....go with non-exposed fastners. The exposed ones have rubber grommets that can fail as they are exposed to UV. Plus many of them fasten on the ridge which you can sort see why they will loosen.

Have a low slope roof house which gave me no end of issues....especially ice damming. Shingles go to hell very fast on a low slope roof...especially with ice damming. Didn’t want to keep doing the roof every 15-20 years....especially as time gets closer to retirement. Once ...done right while I can still earn and pay for it.

Plus on resale, there is no buyer trying to get a discount because the roof need redoing in so many years. The roof will outlive the next owner too. They say 50 years but if done right (not over shingles) they can exceed that by a lot. The value/cost doesn’t disappear....like good improvements they increase the resale value....so don’t think of it as an expense (which you have to do with shingles ie total shingle job cost divided by yr of life=annual depreciation, cost of living there).

I went with a slightly heavy gauge which is much more resistant to heavy hail. So now I don’t have to concern myself with the roof and when it going to fail.

Last edited by BlackHeart; 01-20-2022 at 01:09 AM.
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  #39  
Old 01-20-2022, 01:13 AM
crosman177 crosman177 is offline
 
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What is the pitch and style of roof? That matters.
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  #40  
Old 01-20-2022, 01:32 AM
amosfella amosfella is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackHeart View Post
10K for 3000sq ft? Hmmm. Gotta be the cheapest shingles possible....expect 10 years and you’re doing it again.

There is no need for strapping.....maybe if the deck is thin OSB. What does strapping do? Just creates another space for bugs and squirrels. Plus you now have an area for condensation as your have moisture in air and two dissimilar temped surfaces. That condensation is going to drip off and collect along the strapping and the OSB decking.

And....with strapping you can’t walk on the roof...without a lot of difficulty.


A better option is there are high temp underlayments that give you a second level of defence, cure ice damning and is much more cost effective than strapping. Plus the one I got, protects the roof from rain and can be exposed for 6 months with no UV concerns....so you can strip the roof and put the stick on membrane and not worry about rain and an expose roof. The right membrane goes on very fast once the roof is stripped and repairs made. Can do the roof in sections also this way.

The idea is to treat the roof layers as a unit working together.....not separate items doing their own thing.

As one of the posters mentioned....go with non-exposed fastners. The exposed ones have rubber grommets that can fail as they are exposed to UV. Plus many of them fasten on the ridge which you can sort see why they will loosen.

Have a low slope roof house which gave me no end of issues....especially ice damming. Shingles go to hell very fast on a low slope roof...especially with ice damming. Didn’t want to keep doing the roof every 15-20 years....especially as time gets closer to retirement. Once ...done right while I can still earn and pay for it.

Plus on resale, there is no buyer trying to get a discount because the roof need redoing in so many years. The roof will outlive the next owner too. They say 50 years but if done right (not over shingles) they can exceed that by a lot. The value/cost doesn’t disappear....like good improvements they increase the resale value....so don’t think of it as an expense (which you have to do with shingles ie total shingle job cost divided by yr of life=annual depreciation, cost of living there).

I went with a slightly heavy gauge which is much more resistant to heavy hail. So now I don’t have to concern myself with the roof and when it going to fail.
So you bought the commercial grade tin?
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  #41  
Old 01-20-2022, 01:34 AM
amosfella amosfella is offline
 
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You might be interested to look at insulated metal panels. They can be used for roofing like tin roofing, but it has 2+ inches of solid foam insulation in it. There's a company in Innisvail (sp?) that makes them.
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  #42  
Old 01-20-2022, 06:41 AM
silver silver is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brankon View Post
How close is the strapping on the tin roof? Do you just make sure to step on screw lines when you go up on the roof to tighten the screws?
I put OSB on my rafters and tarpaper full length of the OSB. I can walk anywhere up there, I just stay off the metal crown. The tarpaper is supposed to divert the condensation to the eaves.
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  #43  
Old 01-20-2022, 06:49 AM
silver silver is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarahfaye View Post
Old local told me strapping only, no plywood or the roof or the snow will never slide. .
I think I will disagree. My rafters have OSB on it and the snow on the south face all slid last week.
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  #44  
Old 01-20-2022, 09:22 AM
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BlackHeart BlackHeart is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amosfella View Post
So you bought the commercial grade tin?
I worked with the installer and also the metal supplier. Talked with the metal supplier about the differences in gauge and hail and life expectancy, etc, etc. So just went a couple of gauges thicker. Not much of a cost difference (when compared to total project job)....panels are noticeably stiffer.

My slope is around 2:12 so even many metal styles would not work/were not recommended. When planned, all panels were full side length....not that that is usually an issue...but 4500 sq.ft of roof on house and garage....and no piecing in if they screw up and are short a panel or two or more. So the panels were made to measure..extra lengths added in.....shipped in from BC...house and attached garage is unique with lots of challenges on the roof.

If it had been a regular roof style, I would have done it myself.

Spent a year researching options and info...even bought an expensive book on roofing systems. That finally answered the questions to issues I was having.
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  #45  
Old 01-21-2022, 06:32 AM
1hogfarmer 1hogfarmer is offline
 
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Go with a hidden fastener system if you go with metal.

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  #46  
Old 01-21-2022, 07:35 AM
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nimrod nimrod is offline
 
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There's a Hutterite Colony that produces the metal roof tin, I think it Holden colony
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  #47  
Old 01-21-2022, 05:36 PM
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urban rednek urban rednek is offline
 
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The joys of a tin roof in our climate.
https://imgur.com/gallery/nPtnMUf

OT- If you plan on owning the house for a long time, a properly installed tin roof is a good investment.
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  #48  
Old 01-22-2022, 04:52 PM
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nimrod nimrod is offline
 
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If your roof has a metal roof, then if you ever have a hail storm in your area, your insurance will give you the option to get a new roof, or a dollar a square foot for appearance costs, then after the first hail storm get a new roof installed
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  #49  
Old 01-24-2022, 10:40 AM
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Okotok Okotok is offline
 
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Does anyone have experience with IKOslate? I'm considering it but haven't done much research yet. Looks like slate but substantially lighter and easier to install. https://www.ikogroup.co.uk/product/ikoslate/
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  #50  
Old 04-13-2022, 11:32 PM
KMCL0610 KMCL0610 is offline
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Slate tile roofs are excellent for our houses as they can reduce extreme heat inside the room and look nice and give a beautiful shape to our homes compared to concreted homes. Slate roofs are lovely and are long-lasting. But the installation should be done appropriately. Otherwise, it can cause damage, leaks, and all. A good contract team and proper installation are necessary for the healthy functioning of the roofing system. Be aware of the fraudulent companies that supply low-quality materials for high prices.
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  #51  
Old 04-14-2022, 05:31 AM
ram crazy ram crazy is offline
 
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I did my garage roof 20 yrs. ago and went with tin. At the time the cost difference was about $60 more as I did the roofing myself. When I built my MIL’s garage about 7 yrs. ago I also went with tin. Tin and done, I doubt I will outlive the tin roof I installed on my garage.
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  #52  
Old 04-14-2022, 09:18 AM
buckman buckman is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nimrod View Post
Put a metal roof on your house, last roof you will ever need, best thing I have ever done for my house.
Just purchased a house with metal shingles,great roof.If you plan on staying in your new home for years to come its the best option.
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  #53  
Old 09-03-2022, 01:56 PM
Duster_80 Duster_80 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brankon View Post
Thanks! It's a darn good feeling having my own place, what I say goes lol

Most people I talk to about it mention the noise of a metal roof when it rains, I for one love sleeping in my camper when it's raining so I can't see that being a problem
Had any leads on someone in the Camrose area that will install a metal roof, and what the cost difference for material, and labour for metal instead of shingles?
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  #54  
Old 09-03-2022, 02:04 PM
Map Maker Map Maker is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagleflyfisher View Post
I’m roof hunting as we speak, my IKO shingles have failed so here we go again.
Speaking w the roofer I have in mind he figures it is more complex w all the trims etc.. to go w tin.
I’ve found a fellow in Tabor that manufactures in house, tin and all the trim.
Cost for materials on a 2100 sq.ft Bungy and attached garage of about 900ft is about 7k for product.
Traditional shingles is about 10k all in.

I expect once dust settles that tin would be about double in cost vs shingles.
If yours is the IKO organic shingles that they were peddling 10 years ago. Class action lawsuit was put against them. A couple pics and you will get a coupon for replacement bundles of fibreglass Cambridge.
I’m still debating metal roof as I want to put on solar panels in future but still debating.
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  #55  
Old 09-03-2022, 06:09 PM
Duster_80 Duster_80 is offline
 
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Default Price on metal roof

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brankon View Post
How close is the strapping on the tin roof? Do you just make sure to step on screw lines when you go up on the roof to tighten the screws?
Have you found an installer and a price $/ft
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