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  #1  
Old 11-20-2001, 06:46 PM
Rob
 
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Default Humane Trapping

. . . Now by no means am I an animal rights activist, or an anti hunter or trapper. In fact I hunt myself and do not have anything against trappers. The only thing is that I value a quick humane kill, which is not always possible, but a value of mine nonetheless. I figure that Mr. Miskosky or any trapper that visits the board might be able to give me some thoughts on trapping and what can be done to make the trapped animals death as humane as possible.

Thanks, Shrubs

Shrubs,

I have to assume that the traps you used were the old steel-jawed leghold trap. These traps were banned for use on all species of animals except for bobcat, coyote, lynx, racoon and wolf some time ago. This year, they have been banned entirely. If a leghold trap is to be used it must be of the rubber soft-catch type (I've watched trappers stick their hands in these traps with no pain whatsoever) or defined (and used) as a killing or drowning device.

As well, traps that are not designed as killing devices must be checked every 24 hours by resident trappers and every 48 hours by registered trappers.

There is a trap testing facility in Vegreville studying traps on a continuous basis to ensure no suffering is endured by the animal being trapped. Canada is a leader in this department.

I haven't got a single leghold trap. This is not to say I wouldn't use one, but just that I don't find the need for one. All of my traps are killing devices. I've witnessed a 330 conibear connecting with a beaver and believe me, it's over in seconds. This holds true for your smaller furbearers as well. For coyotes I use killing snares and still have to check these snares every 24 hours.

Hope this helps,
Rob
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  #2  
Old 11-20-2001, 11:35 PM
Thanks
 
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Default Thanks

Thank you for the reply. Yes the traps were all leg hold except the snares and one conibear if my memorie serves me correct.
I think that trapping would be a great way to open my outdoor oppurtunities using the kill traps that you mentioned. Now only if I could find the time :-)
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  #3  
Old 01-26-2003, 07:39 PM
winged1
 
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Default traps

Does anyone out there still construct deadfalls, or is that a lost art?.
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  #4  
Old 03-16-2003, 12:57 AM
Power Snares
 
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Default Power Snares

I have had the best luck with the RAM power snare. Set correctly it is, in my mind, the most humane snare available today. Then the ambergs, kelly snares, or whatever you want to calll them , the ones with a compression spring on the end are the next best. Haven't tried the deadfall but have studied them a bunch, may try one just to humor myself, I think they're way to much work. Take care all.
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  #5  
Old 03-20-2003, 11:48 AM
humane trapping
 
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Default humane trapping

i use kill type trapes because of the simple fact that iam only16 and cant carry a gun.>: so i have no way of disbatching the animal. I have heard of trappers using a snare on a stick to kill animals in leghold traps. have you heard of this? does it work? is it humane?

Thanks, Mad trapper
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  #6  
Old 03-21-2003, 02:38 AM
winged1
 
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Default intent.

Hey mad trapper, what you doing with those animals you are trapping? What game are you after?.
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  #7  
Old 03-22-2003, 01:05 PM
Kill Stick
 
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Default Kill Stick

Hi MadTrapper,

Good to see the young joining our ranks. I have not heard of anyone using a dispatch pole with a choke snare but it would work. The best thing to do is check out the Internet and search "snaring coyotes" if that's what your after. Snaring beaver, cats and the like works as well.

For yourself I'd stay clear of the ram power snares for now as they take some training and they can be very hard on the teeth, nose or whatever happens to be in the way if they go off on you. My buddy and I have built a loading and unloading tool for them for this very reason. I have never been swatted by one but have had them go off twice on me, once if missing completely and the other time it tore my glove off. I also use a set of long nose vise grips with spring ridges ground out of setting. Study them closely.

The best for the new comer, in my opinion, is the Kelly or Amberg snare, and out of the Snareshop, the North Dakota Snare. Buying for the ATA, as I have seen you refer to, it's the Kelly. They have a dispatch spring which expediates the choke process. In all cases uses an entanglement devise as well and the coyotes will usually be down and out in a couple of hours or even minutes in some cases. When done like this I believe a good bat is best if found still breathing, unless you want to save skulls. This is the least amount of disturbance to the pelt....A few good books are worth their weight in gold! Good luck....
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  #8  
Old 03-28-2003, 11:43 AM
Traps and trapping
 
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Default Traps and trapping

Thanks all, its great to recieve all the help like iam getting on this message board. The animals iam after is Coyotes, weasels, and Beaver for now. in the future i plan to expand my trapping efforts further. I may try and trap a badger that a farmer wants to get rid of but iam not sure how to trap them. I guess i will have to get out my ATA training manual. i heard about the stick and snare method when taking my level 1 trapping course. the instructers where Ross and Wade. Ross mentioned useing the snare pole method on lynx when he needed them for taxidermy purposes. I am going to try this method next year as i will be laying some steel (Foot hold traps) for Coyotes. See yuh soon
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  #9  
Old 03-30-2003, 01:15 PM
Badger trapping
 
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Default Badger trapping

Badger can be trapped as this forum has indicated at other sections. Or find a hole that tracks lead into but not out. Use a box or something that covers the hole so the badger cannot see daylight when coming out and set a 330 conibear over the hole. Remember to set back so it doesn't spring away when set off. An old washer tub works great.

Or a foot hold, not need for the darkening box. Set the trap to the outside or side of the hole as the badger does not crawl out with feet below but more like 45 % to the sides. I have heard that a gopher trap will work, as once they have a toe in the trap they stay put but personally I would use a #3 jump trap....
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