Oil finish on gunstock?

Bushleague · #1 11-25-2019, 03:00 PM

I'm thinking of re-finishing a couple gunstocks this winter and am wondering what to use. I have a few older guns that I've refinished just using Linseed oil, I like that the oil can be easily re-applied to take out any dings and re-seal the stock whenever needed, but I also wish it was a little more durable. I've heard a lot of good things about products like Tru-Oil, which set up a bit more and create a durable finish, but I'd like to know if they can they be re-applied like Linseed Oil?

Dean2 · #2 11-25-2019, 03:20 PM

http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/searc...rchid=17447964

Search result - way more info than you would ever want. Been discussed many times.

Bushleague · #3 11-25-2019, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean2

http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/searc...rchid=17447964

Search result - way more info than you would ever want. Been discussed many times.

Allright, I guess I should have titled this differently. What I really want to know is if I were to use Tru-Oil, could I re-apply afterwards without stripping the stock? I did do some research, and I could not find an answer.

If I cant do this with Tru-Oil, is there another product that is tougher than linseed oil but still allows me to just rub on another coat if I want?

YYC338 · #4 11-25-2019, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bushleague

Allright, I guess I should have titled this differently. What I really want to know is if I were to use Tru-Oil, could I re-apply afterwards without stripping the stock? I did do some research, and I could not find an answer.

If I cant do this with Tru-Oil, is there another product that is tougher than linseed oil but still allows me to just rub on another coat if I want?

Absolutely you can. Keep adding as many coats as you want. Extended time between coats isn't a problem.

What you need to be careful of though is any stock wax or even greasy hand prints that may accumulate on the stock over time. Max sure the surface is clean, buff lightly with 00 or 000 steel wool and layer away.

fps plus · #5 11-25-2019, 05:21 PM

Varathane natural oil #66

huntsfurfish · #6 11-25-2019, 05:30 PM

Tung Oil is what I used to use.

JohnB · #7 11-25-2019, 05:53 PM

Tung oil and tru oil mix. Hand rub 10 coats. I sand with very fine steel wool between coats.

sns2 · #8 11-25-2019, 05:56 PM

Watco Danish Oil.

270person · #9 11-25-2019, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sns2

Watco Danish Oil.

Boiled Linseed Oil. I mix a little French red stain in with. 3-4 drops is plenty. Last couple I've given ample time to dry the last coat, then applied a coat of beeswax buffed to a low gloss to finish..

Use minimal after the first saturation and wet sand it in with #400. 7-10 days between coats. 6-8 hand rubbed coats.

Last couple of projects I've heated the stock as well prior to rubbing in a coat. Made a big difference

Can't rush quality.. Right sns?

trophybook · #10 11-25-2019, 08:32 PM

[QUOTE=270person;4062525]Boiled Linseed Oil. I mix a little French red stain in with. 3-4 drops is plenty. Last couple I've given ample time to dry the last coat, then applied a coat of beeswax buffed to a low gloss to finish..

Use minimal after the first saturation and wet sand it in with #400. 7-10 days between coats. 6-8 hand rubbed coats.

Last couple of projects I've heated the stock as well prior to rubbing in a coat. Made a big difference

Got any pictures of a stock done with the French red tint?

270person · #11 11-25-2019, 09:55 PM

[QUOTE=trophybook;4062542]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 270person

Boiled Linseed Oil. I mix a little French red stain in with. 3-4 drops is plenty. Last couple I've given ample time to dry the last coat, then applied a coat of beeswax buffed to a low gloss to finish..

Use minimal after the first saturation and wet sand it in with #400. 7-10 days between coats. 6-8 hand rubbed coats.

Last couple of projects I've heated the stock as well prior to rubbing in a coat. Made a big difference

Got any pictures of a stock done with the French red tint?

I do actually and when I can get them moved from phone to tablet I'll send you a couple.

Last one was a CIL Anschutz 310. Stock was beat pretty badly so it ended up being a 3 month project that included bleaching some of the black highlights out near the butt end with a mild organic acid. I think most of the 310's came with fairly light wood and I wanted to tint that up a notch. Ended up pretty decent.

I use BOL only because I don't care for the walnutty gloss I often see from the Tru Oil, plus I'm not in a rush so linseed oil dry times arent a problem. Its a labour of love pasttime for me now and each stock is a learning experience.

There's a few members on AO that do really nice stockwork and each has their own preferences.

bsmitty27 · #12 11-25-2019, 10:15 PM

Tung oil. I have used it on 20 or so rifle stocks, love it and wont use anything ever again. This is why I use 100% tung oil exclusivly.
(Stolen from wiki)

"Tung oil resists liquid water better than any other pure oil finish and does not darken noticeably with age and is claimed to be less susceptible to mould than linseed oil.[11] Most importantly, of all the oil finishes, tung oil is the only drying oil that polymerizes 100% (completely hardens). Linseed oil, for example, never completely hardens."
Brad

sns2 · #13 11-25-2019, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 270person

Can't rush quality.. Right sns?

You got that right my friend!

270person · #14 11-25-2019, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sns2

You got that right my friend!

Still haven't seen the final results of that piece you were working in this summer. Looked great in the early stages.

270person · #15 11-25-2019, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bsmitty27

Tung oil. I have used it on 20 or so rifle stocks, love it and wont use anything ever again. This is why I use 100% tung oil exclusivly.
(Stolen from wiki)

"Tung oil resists liquid water better than any other pure oil finish and does not darken noticeably with age and is claimed to be less susceptible to mould than linseed oil.[11] Most importantly, of all the oil finishes, tung oil is the only drying oil that polymerizes 100% (completely hardens). Linseed oil, for example, never completely hardens."
Brad

Must have been an awful lot of mouldy rifles years back. I prefer the satin, non polymerized look of the BOL but to each his own.

sns2 · #16 11-25-2019, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 270person

Still haven't seen the final results of that piece you were working in this summer. Looked great in the early stages.

Turned out great. Thanks for all the coaching. Greatly appreciated.

bsmitty27 · #17 11-26-2019, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 270person

Must have been an awful lot of mouldy rifles years back. I prefer the satin, non polymerized look of the BOL but to each his own.

Its easy to get a satin look when using tung oil, actually easier. just nice that is actually hardens. I am just happy to see anyone useing oil instead of plastic. all oil finishes are nice. ya the mold thing isnt a issue for me, if my wood is molding my steel is going to be rough. just stole a quote from wiki and that was in there.
Brad