my barrel heats up too fast

[fish_e_o]

the barrel on my blr in 308 likes to get pretty warm after it shoots

which means to be accurate 3-5 minutes between shoots is a must. i developed a load for it that will group at about .8" but i just can't sight it in because of inconsistencies in the barrel temperature

but if i shoot the gun, leave it for 30 minutes then come back and shoot it again, then do the same thing once more it'll shoot a near perfect group...

any suggestions... what should i do

[Roughneck12]

I just bought an Austrailian heavy barrelled Lee Enfield and I was shocked about how long it held on to the heat. I was actually thinking about getting the barrel fluted. Its a new barrel on a new rifle so it shouldn't hurt the value.

Anyone do fluting and blueing around Red Deer?

Thats all that I can think of to help you. Does your POI change much when the barrel heats up?

[Jerry D]

If you let it cool completely it shoots great groups but when it gets warm it starts to wander. Many people have this problem. If you shoot 3 shots in a row so 3 shots within 30 seconds whats the group look like?

[fish_e_o]

Originally Posted by Jerry D

If you shoot 3 shots in a row so 3 shots within 30 seconds whats the group look like?

it looks like the stars in the sky about a 3"- 3.5" group
two shots are side by side then the third is like it's drunk

[mjohn7]

Your first shot is the Cold bore shot, If you are hunting this will be the important shot.
For target shooting the next group of shoots define you group.
If it is grouping as said it may be more than just a warm barrel causing problems.

[huntin]

Originally Posted by Roughneck12

I just bought an Austrailian heavy barrelled Lee Enfield and I was shocked about how long it held on to the heat. I was actually thinking about getting the barrel fluted. Its a new barrel on a new rifle so it shouldn't hurt the value.

Anyone do fluting and blueing around Red Deer?

Thats all that I can think of to help you. Does your POI change much when the barrel heats up?

heard rumor of a good gun smith in bashaw

[Pathfinder76]

I think barrel heat is far from the actual problem.

[gitrdun]

Originally Posted by chuck

I think barrel heat is far from the actual problem.

Agreed, any barrel will see temperature increase after every shot, but such a drastic effect has me thinking "pressure point" or perhaps the recoil lug is not properly bedded or both. I'd certainly check these two before undertaking more drastic measures.

[Dick284]

Hmmm, lets see a 2 piece stock, a barrel band, no bedding etc. etc. Not suprising that you require a stone cold barrel to see accuracy.
I'm sure some things can be done to a BLR to help with these issues, but I doubt it's for a novice, and I'm pretty sure a smith will ding you a good chunk of change too.

[gitrdun]

Sorry, I failed to see that the OP had mentioned a BLR....my bad

[fish_e_o]

Originally Posted by gitrdun

Agreed, any barrel will see temperature increase after every shot, but such a drastic effect has me thinking "pressure point" or perhaps the recoil lug is not properly bedded or both. I'd certainly check these two before undertaking more drastic measures.

Originally Posted by Dick284

Hmmm, lets see a 2 piece stock, a barrel band, no bedding etc. etc. Not suprising that you require a stone cold barrel to see accuracy.
I'm sure some things can be done to a BLR to help with these issues, but I doubt it's for a novice, and I'm pretty sure a smith will ding you a good chunk of change too.

ok what can i do? take material out of the stock from around the barrel? should i keep the strap?

[gitrdun]

Sorry fish, I can't help you with that as I've never attempted to accurize a lever gun, my experience is limited to bolt guns with one piece stocks. I shoot a Marlin .444 and it prints real well on paper using both my full power loads and reduced loads. Even though my Marlin has a 2 piece stock, there is no barrel band. Good luck, maybe guys like Rockymountain or Dick can chime in and provide suggestions, but not I.

[Dean2]

The easiest way to ifx that barrel walking on a BLR is to glass the forened to the barrel so it is making complete and even contact all the way .

Some guys have gone as far as actually permanently glueing the forearm to the barrel using Devcon or other bedding epoxy but I have not found that necessary on the ones I have done. Not all models of the BLR have a barrel band but if yours does I would ditch the barrel band. When you are applying glass make sure you glass the back of the forearm where the forearm butts up against the action.

It is very easy to do, and instructions on how to glass bed a rifle are plentiful if you google it. Brownell's site has a very good starting explanation.

You don't say whether your BLR is a takedown model or not. If it is a takedown and the glassing of the forearm doesn't cure your problem it is also possible you don't have a good tight fit of barrel to receiver and the heat is moving the alignment. This can only be fixed by Browning or a VERY good gunsmith.

[timsesink]

I think we're missing a very important point here and that is this a HUNTING gun not a target gun. These types of guns are intended to shoot 1-2 inches at 100 yards and accurate for the first few shots. I've never been in a hunting situation where I've needed more then my clip. I think what you're getting from it about right for it's intedned use. If you want to do all day target shooting head and grab yourself a Tikka T3 Varmint in .222 and have at er. Just my two cents but I've never been an accuracy freak, dead is dead.

[fish_e_o]

Originally Posted by timsesink

I think we're missing a very important point here and that is this a HUNTING gun not a target gun. These types of guns are intended to shoot 1-2 inches at 100 yards and accurate for the first few shots. I've never been in a hunting situation where I've needed more then my clip. I think what you're getting from it about right for it's intedned use. If you want to do all day target shooting head and grab yourself a Tikka T3 Varmint in .222 and have at er. Just my two cents but I've never been an accuracy freak, dead is dead.

a guy at work keeps bugging me about it he keeps saying things like:

"if you're not happy with it sell it to me and i'll out shoot you with it"

"odds are that if you miss the first two shots you want the rest of them to be a 2" high anyway."

"how many times have you shot at something twice, missed, kept shooting, and then said "if my gun was more accurate i would have got that""

"that gun will out shoot you"

"can you hit a dinner plate at 100 yards? then you're fine."

"do you think you're going to have any guns shoot any better from a standing or kneeling position"

[timsesink]

all good points LOL and I meant a .223 not a .222 as they're getting pretty tough to fins ammo for. If you're getting .8 first groups then I think you've got yourself a great lever gun.

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by fish_e_o

the barrel on my blr in 308 likes to get pretty warm after it shoots

which means to be accurate 3-5 minutes between shoots is a must. i developed a load for it that will group at about .8" but i just can't sight it in because of inconsistencies in the barrel temperature

but if i shoot the gun, leave it for 30 minutes then come back and shoot it again, then do the same thing once more it'll shoot a near perfect group...

any suggestions... what should i do

it looks like the stars in the sky about a 3"- 3.5" group

So which is it .8 or 3.5". From what I read it was .8 3 shot group with 30 minutes between shots, and 3.5" inches if you fired three fast ones. 3.5 at 100 is 7" at 200 and over 13 inches at 300. Not okay in my books, even for a hunting rifle, unless you are never planning to shoot much over 100 yards. Strictly your choice though. If it is good enough as is, have at er.

[Pathfinder76]

Originally Posted by fish_e_o

a guy at work keeps bugging me about it he keeps saying things like:

"if you're not happy with it sell it to me and i'll out shoot you with it"

"odds are that if you miss the first two shots you want the rest of them to be a 2" high anyway."

"how many times have you shot at something twice, missed, kept shooting, and then said "if my gun was more accurate i would have got that""

"that gun will out shoot you"

"can you hit a dinner plate at 100 yards? then you're fine."

"do you think you're going to have any guns shoot any better from a standing or kneeling position"

Sell it to him.

[timsesink]

3.5 is defintely not okay, I was going off the original .8

[JWilliscroft]

Originally Posted by Roughneck12

I just bought an Austrailian heavy barrelled Lee Enfield and I was shocked about how long it held on to the heat. I was actually thinking about getting the barrel fluted. Its a new barrel on a new rifle so it shouldn't hurt the value.

Anyone do fluting and blueing around Red Deer?

Thats all that I can think of to help you. Does your POI change much when the barrel heats up?

Try Bob at Custom Gunworx !! His shop is about 40 min West of Red Deer. I haven"t personally had any work done by him, but know lots who have. He's a great guy with a great little business !!

Bob Galloway
Custom Gunworx
403 845-8712

[fish_e_o]

Originally Posted by Dean2

So which is it .8 or 3.5". From what I read it was .8 3 shot group with 30 minutes between shots, and 3.5" inches if you fired three fast ones. 3.5 at 100 is 7" at 200 and over 13 inches at 300. Not okay in my books, even for a hunting rifle, unless you are never planning to shoot much over 100 yards. Strictly your choice though. If it is good enough as is, have at er.

correct. if i wait between shots it shoots awesome, if i shoot them as fast as i can she strays on the third shot usually 2" but sometimes more


anyway i fixed the problem.... i went out and bought a new x-bolt in 300wsm she shoots really well

[fish_e_o]

i've also heard that sometimes a gun won't like the ballistic tip type bullets as much as they like a round nose bullet and i did notice that the guy i bought it from shot round nose bullets