Win Mod 70 Featherweight Question

[rockur]

Hello Everyone,
I am a new member as of today. I recently started to work less and start to enjoy some old hobbies more. Shooting and hunting are at the top of my list.
I have a Mod 70 Featherweight that I sent away to get the trigger replaced(was 8lbs. 13oz out of the box). Before I sent it in, it grouped around 1" at 100 yds. Now it groups around 21/2" at 100 yds. with the same ammo. I think it might be how the stock was tightened back on. Does anyone know the proper sequence and torque for the screws? Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.

[Homesteader]

I've never torqued to actual spec but know that it can make a huge difference on some stocks. I always go with tightening the front screw down nice and tight, don't need to go crazy and strip the head. On the rear I just put it in so that it's not going to come loose on it's own. Does the crown of the barrel still look ok?

I've owned 3 FW's. 30-06, 270W, and a .257 Rob. Not one of them ever shot a 1" group, no matter what I tried. So, you're kinda lucky that way. The fact that a new and supposedly lighter trigger was installed, one would imagine better grouping. The FW's have a pencil thin barrel, which rely on a slight pressure point at the forend. I'd say, make sure bedding is up to par, pressure point still on. Some people get carried away with receiver torque. If you go by the rule of thumb of 25 ft/lb per 1/8" of bolt diameter, (millwright's rule of thumb) then a 50 ft/lb torque for a 1/4" bolt is all you need. Personally, I drop that a bit and use some medium strenght Loctite. So, bottom line is 35 ft/lbs (if the action is bedded) and medium or light Loctite. If the action is NOT bedded, then you should get it done, lightweights cannot sustain distortion very well.

Good luck...

[Pathfinder76]

Fore and aft tight, middle so it doesn't fall out.

Get rid of the pressure point if present, and bed the lug and receiver ring. I've never had a problem with Winchester's Fwt contour barrel shooting. In fact, I think it is quite possibly the best contour going and have barrels turned to match it and custom barrels built to dupe it.

[b72471]

I have one of these in 30-06, with hand loads it will consistantly shoot 3/4" 3 shot groups at 100Ms, it's the older model push feed, but a keeper.
The torque spects given above in ft/lbs are much too heavy for torquing a barreled action to a stock. This is usually measured in inch/pounds. Do a search on tourquing a barreled action. The front screw is snugged up and the rear screw is not quite as tight and the center screw on a win 70 is no pressure just tighten until you feel resistance. If you don't get it back to where it was, you may want to have a gunsmith BED the action.
Take care Bill

[rockur]

Thanks Everyone,
It sounds like I should just take it to a gunsmith and let them check it out. Does anyone have any experience with Hillbilly Arms in Southern Alberta?

[skywrench]

Originally Posted by gitrdun

Some people get carried away with receiver torque. If you go by the rule of thumb of 25 ft/lb per 1/8" of bolt diameter, (millwright's rule of thumb) then a 50 ft/lb torque for a 1/4" bolt is all you need. Personally, I drop that a bit and use some medium strenght Loctite. So, bottom line is 35 ft/lbs (if the action is bedded) and medium or light Loctite.

I think you mean inch/pounds as opposed to foot/pounds. While we may be talking different specification fasteners, standard torque for an aircraft grade AN 1/4" bolt will be 50 - 70 in/lbs with some MS and NAS grades approaching 100 in/lbs. Attempting to apply 600 in/lb (50 ft/lb) to a 1/4" fastener will result in thread failure. As an aside this torque wouldn't be attainable with a screwdriver.

Cheers

Originally Posted by skywrench

I think you mean inch/pounds as opposed to foot/pounds. While we may be talking different specification fasteners, standard torque for an aircraft grade AN 1/4" bolt will be 50 - 70 in/lbs with some MS and NAS grades approaching 100 in/lbs. Attempting to apply 600 in/lb (50 ft/lb) to a 1/4" fastener will result in thread failure. As an aside this torque wouldn't be attainable with a screwdriver.

Cheers

Good catch, I stand corrected....

[skywrench]

Originally Posted by gitrdun

Good catch, I stand corrected....

No sweat, I didn't want somebody to try and lay the boots to it and find out they just had a real bad day. I know a fellow A.M.E. that witnessed a similar event. He gave an apprentice the job of torquing the nuts down on the gearcase to an Allison 501 (the engine from the Lockheed Hercules and Electra) and the kid came to him a while later complaining that the studs were faulty as the dozen or so in his hands all failed - he was torquing to 100 ft/lb instead of 100 in/lb There were several lessons to be learned on that incident. This guy wouldn't say sh&t if his mouth was full of it but I understand he could have put a longshoreman to shame that day.

Cheers

[NCC]

Originally Posted by rockur

Thanks Everyone,
It sounds like I should just take it to a gunsmith and let them check it out. Does anyone have any experience with Hillbilly Arms in Southern Alberta?

Yes and I was very happy with his work.

Originally Posted by rockur

Thanks Everyone,
It sounds like I should just take it to a gunsmith and let them check it out. Does anyone have any experience with Hillbilly Arms in Southern Alberta?

I haven't had any work done by Dan, but I do know that he's a good guy if that helps

[u_cant_rope_the_wind]

I had a model 70 F W in 257 roberts had it glass bedded and free floated , trigger pull was 3 LBS, gave it to my nephew, I could drive tack wth it @ 100 yrds, and it still shoots the same , so I guess what I,m saying is that you may have to free float it and bedd the action

[Silverado]

If your featherweight is of the new, post 2008 generation, it came free floated from the factory. If it is new, or of the 'Classic Featherweight' generation, it also came bedded from the factory, but the bedding is sometimes a bit scant, and can stand some extra, if applied sparingly and judiciously.

The new Model 70's have different bottom metal; only 2 action screws, and a 1 piece bottom metal. The 'Classic' models have the nice older style 2 piece bottom metal with 3 screws. Either way, torque the front one nice and tight, the rear nice and snug, and the middle (if applicable) nice and snug as well.

As for actual specs, many benchrest shooters throw the 65 in/lb figure around, for what that's worth.

I'm also stunned that your trigger was that heavy, and needed replacing? The older Model 70 trigger was a gem for simple adjustment, and the new ones are supposedly designed to be user adjustable, although they come with a big dab of glue over the adjustment screws.

[roadkill]

I have a 2008 M70 with a trigger that is light and perfectly crisp. But I'm confused as to why you needed to get the trigger replaced. They're supposed to be adjustable.

[Pioneer2]

The 3 FWT's I've own were/are all MOA or better rifles.The .270 SS Classic 1/2" or better every time any time................now if I can get it back from my kid who shot his spring bear with it I'm all set............Harold

[ACKLEY ABE]

Pressure point.