Knife edge burr

[boonedocks]

How the heck does a guy get rid of the little burr on a knifes edge? I’ve been using a Lanskey sharpener for years ( it’s in need of being replaced as the stones are getting dished) but I’ve never noticed the burr I’m getting lately. I’ve tried the finest stone it comes with and also a steel but I seem to be just moving the burr from one side of the blade to the other?! Drivin me nuts, recommendations for a new sharpening system welcome also. Thanks in advance.

[calgarychef]

That burr is essential to a sharp knife. Stone it on one side until you been the burr, then on the other side until it has a butt too. Then strop it off on your belt and it’s as sharp as it can be.

[CBintheNorth]

Originally Posted by calgarychef

That burr is essential to a sharp knife. Stone it on one side until you been the burr, then on the other side until it has a butt too. Then strop it off on your belt and it’s as sharp as it can be.

Exactly. Get to your desired fineness of finish and then strop the burr off on a leather belt.
I prefer my Lansky Diamond set to anything else on the market, powered or manual.

[Peebles]

As mentioned a strop is great at taking off the burr. It must be the most recommended technique. You can also do one or two passes on the stone at a slightly steeper angle. You can remove it by cutting through something like cardboard. You can use a ceramic honing rod to catch it. I'll try to make up a new way next time I sharpen.

It can be hard to get the burr off of very ductile steels in which case you might have to work it back and forth slowly grinding it off. With other steels you can more or less snap it off in one pass.

I know this sounds like grumpy old guy talk, but in my experience the best sharpening system is your hands and a small set of stones (2+). Even the constant angle jigs are more annoying than useful for me. I use DMT diamond stones coarse and extra-fine along a homemade strop with 1μm diamond paste. It makes me wish I had more knives to sharpen.

[glen moa]

Are you sharpening at the correct angle. Some blades are hard to get sharp. 440c seems to only get just sharp but lasts. 440a gets razor sharp but dulls quick. Im carrying three or four knives for bigger jobs.

[normanrd]

Originally Posted by glen moa

Are you sharpening at the correct angle. Some blades are hard to get sharp. 440c seems to only get just sharp but lasts. 440a gets razor sharp but dulls quick. Im carrying three or four knives for bigger jobs.

You should look at a knife made with s30v or similar. One knife for several elk and moose head to toe before needing anything more than a touch with steel. I have an old leatherman knife made of s30v that I have used for at least the last 15 years and it's all I need for the whole season.

Norm

[saskbooknut]

If you get a "wire edge" and don't remove it with a steel or stropping, you are probably sharpening at too shallow an angle for the steel hardness.
I have been using a Work Sharp electric sharpener in recent years, though there is still a place for Lansky system.
The final ultra fine belt, like crocus cloth, puts a final polish on the edge.
Like any power system, you need to use the aggressive belts only as much as needed to establish an edge with a consistent angle.
The Work Sharp machine is/was on Christmas sale at Peavey Mart for $89, about as good a price as I have seen lately.

[graybeard]

Originally Posted by calgarychef

That burr is essential to a sharp knife. Stone it on one side until you been the burr, then on the other side until it has a butt too. Then strop it off on your belt and it’s as sharp as it can be.

X 2 exactly.....

As for looking for a new sharpening system; stick with what you are comfortable with. Me personally, I would buy a new Lansky system, especially if the stones are dishing....

Over the years I have owned 3 sets of Lansky diamonds....I like the DMT system as well.

Good luck,

[elkhunter11]

I have used the Lansky system, but I prefer the Gatco system, as the stones are larger, and I prefer the way their guide rods work. I have knives with blades from CPM154,154CM, and ATS-34, and the Gatco diamond kit sharpens them all shaving sharp very quickly.

[Dean2]

Like Elk I prefer the Gatco. I am still using the Diamond Lansky I have always had but my buddies Gatco is a better setup. I f I ever needed a new set that would be it. I also have one of the Work Sharps among many other sharpening devices. I also agree with the comment that SV30 is great steel for an all purpose knife. My 45 year old buck is real hard steel but most of the newer ones are the softer 440. I special ordered a Buck 110 in SV30 from Buck's website for little more than an off the shelf one. You can order other models with the SV30, including fillet knives.

As to the OP's original question a Black Hard Arkansas stone will remove the burr. Push the knife across the stone edge first once on each side at the sharpening angle you sharpened the blade at. Repeat, the burr will come off fairly fast. Finish on a strop.

[no-regard]

I have a Wicked Edge sharpening system and it is fool proof. That being said if I hadn't bought it years ago when they first came out I don't think I'd be able to afford it at todays prices, though it's worth it in my opinion.

Highly recommended by myself and several friends who own them.

[Pathfinder76]

Originally Posted by no-regard

I have a Wicked Edge sharpening system and it is fool proof. That being said if I hadn't bought it years ago when they first came out I don't think I'd be able to afford it at todays prices, though it's worth it in my opinion.

Highly recommended by myself and several friends who own them.

I will second this.

[Ken3134]

None of the sharpening gadgets out there are better than someone who has learned the skill. I use a flat diamond stone, ceramic stone, and a strop to sharpen. Ususally just stand it back up with a steel. Watch a few you tube videos, it’s not as hard as you think. Good knife steel certainly helps.

[Phil McCracken]

Originally Posted by no-regard

I have a Wicked Edge sharpening system and it is fool proof. That being said if I hadn't bought it years ago when they first came out I don't think I'd be able to afford it at todays prices, though it's worth it in my opinion.

Highly recommended by myself and several friends who own them.

I read up on this system. Interesting concept. Seems like it does an awesome job, especially for the ones that struggle with sharpening (like me).

But the price....Yikes!

Having said that...I may consider a lower end package.

Thanx for the info.

[no-regard]

Originally Posted by Phil McCracken

I read up on this system. Interesting concept. Seems like it does an awesome job, especially for the ones that struggle with sharpening (like me).

But the price....Yikes!

Having said that...I may consider a lower end package.

Thanx for the info.

It's the best, but yes the price has gone up drastically.

I think I paid $450 Canadian for the Pro Pack, stones 100/200, 400/600, 800/1000, as well as 4 strops and diamond pastes, that was 5 or 6 years ago.

I just bought an additional set of stones (1500/2200 diamond) $160 (with shipping), I've got that mirror edge though.

[getatmewolf]

Another vote for the work sharp system that puts a convex edge on the blades. I have the Ken Onion edition with more angle options and that convex edge on good steel cannot be beat for durability and ease of touch up. All my kitchen knives are razor sharp, caping, skinning and any of the file knives I make are all shaving sharp.

I seen a note on s30v, I bought a benchmade bushcrafter about 3 years ago and it still has the original v-edge. I told myself I will put a convex edge on it once it dulls but I haven't even put a steel to it after two elk and 6-7 deer, simply unreal steel for holding an edge.