Auger maintenance (blades/tune up)

[pinelakeperch]

Just looking to see how often you guys tune up your augers and change your blades. I bought the Eskimo tune up kit today, I'm excited to get my auger running smoother. I only drill about 50 holes per year (~150 total on these blades) and am beginning to feel the blades getting duller.

[Angler]

50 holes per year! You know where you fishing than. I drill 25-30 per trip! But I often explore, and never sit long on one spot, if there is no bites. I've got Rapala Nitro 8" three seasons ago, never done anything to it, runs like new! Thinking of changing blades soon, not gonna try sharp them. It isn't bad to buy them once in 3 years I guess. Mine has drilled probably an 800+ holes.
I also use Ultra 94 Gas for it.

[WayneChristie]

I dont drill many holes but the blades are still dull after a couple outings. instead of buying new blades constantly just pick up a sharpener and hit them every couple trips . reason is all the sand blown onto the lakes in our hood, probably not much of an issue in the frozen wastelands north of Calgary where they have snow on the ice all season

[EZM]

Originally Posted by WayneChristie

I dont drill many holes but the blades are still dull after a couple outings. instead of buying new blades constantly just pick up a sharpener and hit them every couple trips . reason is all the sand blown onto the lakes in our hood, probably not much of an issue in the frozen wastelands north of Calgary where they have snow on the ice all season

True enough ... but all you have to do is hit a dirty patch of ice where a truck passed over or dropped some grit off the wheel wells (common on the popular lakes like Gull up here) and you need to re-sharpen.

Doesn't take much sand/dirt to dull a blade.

[Dean2]

Blades are dead easy to sharpen with a little practice. I always carry a spare set of sharp blades in my tackle box in case I dull off the ones on the auger. Much faster to change than sharpen on the ice. The two sets have lasted more than 30 years and still have tons of life left in them. I addition I carry a new plug, plug wrench and Allen wrench for blades in the tackle box. The gas always has seafoam and stabiliser in it already.

Outside of that no regular maintenance is required beyond dumping the gas out of the tank at the end of the season and spraying the inside of the tank and motor with fogging oil. A little silicone lube on the linkages and wiping off any dirt and grime and you are good to go.

[LutherDLG]

Originally Posted by WayneChristie

I dont drill many holes but the blades are still dull after a couple outings. instead of buying new blades constantly just pick up a sharpener and hit them every couple trips . reason is all the sand blown onto the lakes in our hood, probably not much of an issue in the frozen wastelands north of Calgary where they have snow on the ice all season

Originally Posted by Dean2

Blades are dead easy to sharpen with a little practice. I always carry a spare set of sharp blades in my tackle box in case I dull off the ones on the auger. Much faster to change than sharpen on the ice. The two sets have lasted more than 30 years and still have tons of life left in them. I addition I carry a new plug, plug wrench and Allen wrench for blades in the tackle box. The gas always has seafoam and stabiliser in it already.

Outside of that no regular maintenance is required beyond dumping the gas out of the tank at the end of the season and spraying the inside of the tank and motor with fogging oil. A little silicone lube on the linkages and wiping off any dirt and grime and you are good to go.

Curious for those of you who sharpen your own blades - is it just as straightforward to sharpen the curved Strikemaster Lazer blades?

I put a new set on this year and have a spare set that I took off and got professionally sharpened as back ups - but if it's all the same, I'd love to do it myself in the future.

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by LutherDLG

Curious for those of you who sharpen your own blades - is it just as straightforward to sharpen the curved Strikemaster Lazer blades?

I put a new set on this year and have a spare set that I took off and got professionally sharpened as back ups - but if it's all the same, I'd love to do it myself in the future.

I have sharpened many different makes but don't remember doing a strike master specifically. Eskimo, Nora, Normark, Jiffy, Husky. Honda they are all about the same. All easy to do, sharpen from the bevel side only and maintain exactly the same angle. A little rolled over burr on the flat side won't hurt a bit but you can use the stone flat to remove it if it makes you feel better. I think the burr actually improves the bite.

[PlayDoh]

Unless you've used your auger in dirt, all you need to do is polish the top or beveled side of the blade. Leave the flat side alone. The ice will remove any "wire" that will be hanging over the cutting edge.
A buffing wheel on a bench grinder works perfect. Apply some green compound to the wheel and do 2 passes for each blade. You can get the polishing compound at Princess. It comes with 3 sticks, one red and white plus the green.
If that's not an option, a dremel and polish works I've read. Even a piece of leather will work, like a belt. Use compound if you can, its dirt cheap. You'll be "stropping" the blade, like a razor or knife. Even some cardboard with compound will work, but the amount of effort will increase as these options are listed.
If you can see nics or chips that aren't major I'd try just polishing. If there's lots and lots you'll need some stones, or sanding, last resort filing.
Don't try to polish anything but the bevel on the blade, and avoid it on new blades until you can notice there dulling. There's a coating on them that prevents rust.
If you take care of them they'll last years before needing to be sharpened, but just like a chain saw chain, it only takes a split second to dull them.


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[PlayDoh]

The most common mistake people do when trying to sharpen blades, is over work it. Make every pass on a stone as accurate as you possibly can, and usually only 2 or 3 will be needed, for each stone. Yet again, for auger blades a cloth wheel plus compound is all you'll need to do. It's the cutting edge that's been curled and all you want to do is straighten it out and remove the slightest amount doing so.
If your unable to polish and in a jam you can use a steel, aka Sharpening Steel or Chefs steel.
Steels don't actually sharpen blades, they just straighten the edge out.
Always use a motion that moves towards the cutting edge, both with polishing and with a steel. Most sharpening as well with some exceptions.


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[PlayDoh]

I should have emphasized more, to not touch the bottom or flat side of the blade. Leave the 'wire' or burr as some call it, after you've finished. Never use anything on the bottom. Also don't do more then 2 passes on the wheel, but if you must, let the blade cool down first. Don't get them hot and ruin the temper, or heat treatment or they'll go dull again in a hurry.


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[220 Swift]

It looks likeyou know your sharpening quite well.
Thanks as i was beginning to wonder how to do this asmy blades are getting some holes behind them now.

[The Flint&Fly Guy]

As to how often, if you buy a new set pay close attention and you'll notice the instant they lose their razor bite. In the meantime figure out how to sharpen the old set and you can just swap the two sets around.
We carry three sets to swap but sometimes we don't even swap once per year! (We don't fish all that much though.)

[Swede]

Took my brand new 1 year old auger out of the garage the other day started on the second pull. Went out to sylvan yesterday on the third pull the cord pulled out. Didn't think to take my tool kit out with me so ya fun day
Ya drilled maybe 50 holes with it, paid close to 400 dollars for the POS

So ya how do you keep the free world junk running when its designed to fail shortly after you buy it ?

[Mike_W]

Originally Posted by Swede

Took my brand new 1 year old auger out of the garage the other day started on the second pull. Went out to sylvan yesterday on the third pull the cord pulled out. Didn't think to take my tool kit out with me so ya fun day
Ya drilled maybe 50 holes with it, paid close to 400 dollars for the POS

So ya how do you keep the free world junk running when its designed to fail shortly after you buy it ?

Well first you shouldn't hit or bottom out your recoil. Short 1.5 ft pulls should be all that is needed. As seen at 39 seconds in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjSEaRri5dE

[Dewey Cox]

Way back when, my buddy and me sharpened the blades on his dad's auger on the bench grinder.
Don't do that.
Couldn't make a hole with that auger afterwards no matter how hard we tried.
Had to borrow an auger out on the ice to get us fishing that day.

[pinelakeperch]

Originally Posted by Angler

50 holes per year! You know where you fishing than. I drill 25-30 per trip! But I often explore, and never sit long on one spot, if there is no bites. I've got Rapala Nitro 8" three seasons ago, never done anything to it, runs like new! Thinking of changing blades soon, not gonna try sharp them. It isn't bad to buy them once in 3 years I guess. Mine has drilled probably an 800+ holes.
I also use Ultra 94 Gas for it.

I almost exclusively ice fish a small lake that I have managed to pretty much figure out. If I was going anywhere else I'd be drilling many more!

Originally Posted by WayneChristie

I dont drill many holes but the blades are still dull after a couple outings. instead of buying new blades constantly just pick up a sharpener and hit them every couple trips . reason is all the sand blown onto the lakes in our hood, probably not much of an issue in the frozen wastelands north of Calgary where they have snow on the ice all season

That would explain it. I think I'll buy a new set of blades to see if it solves the issue, then buy a sharpener and sharpen the old set and keep them as a back up.

[pinelakeperch]

My auger is drilling painfully slow, and the bolt that connects the auger to the powerhead popped out while drilling (luckily this occurred prior to the hole being finished). Bought the proper hex key and tightened it, but next time out it loosened up again. Could the extra work of dull blades force that bolt to loosen?

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by jhutter

My auger is drilling painfully slow, and the bolt that connects the auger to the powerhead popped out while drilling (luckily this occurred prior to the hole being finished). Bought the proper hex key and tightened it, but next time out it loosened up again. Could the extra work of dull blades force that bolt to loosen?

Not usually. Likely that you have wear on the bolt and nut from running it loose. Get a new set and red loctite it in the mean time. Slow auger cutting, as long as motor is running at right RPM is too much weight pushing down and or dull blades.

[Mike_W]

Originally Posted by Dean2

Not usually. Likely that you have wear on the bolt and nut from running it loose. Get a new set and red loctite it in the mean time. Slow auger cutting, as long as motor is running at right RPM is too much weight pushing down and or dull blades.

Get new screws and if anything blue loctite

[Isopod]

I have a Strikemaster Lazer Mag Express auger, and I've given up trying to sharpen old blades. Every attempt, from using a bench grinder, to a set of Japanese sharpening stones, to a diamond sharpener, have been complete fails. They feel wicked-sharp to the touch after I'm done "sharpening" the old blades, but end up pathetic at drilling through ice, or they drill a few good holes and then go dull after one outing.

New (purchased) blades last me at least a year, and sometimes up to 3 years. I think the shorter end of the spectrum is probably when someone's car or truck has dropped some car-poo that has settled into the ice and contaminated things with sand and other road-grit before I try to drill through it.

I have had success sharpening hand-auger blades with purchased sharpeners designed for the job, but be sure not to use these sharpeners on power-auger blades, as the angle they cut the blade at is completely wrong for power-augers.

[Swede]

Originally Posted by Mike_W

Well first you shouldn't hit or bottom out your recoil. Short 1.5 ft pulls should be all that is needed. As seen at 39 seconds in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjSEaRri5dE

Ya for sure Mike that's exactly what i did but sure didn't mean to.So for 400 bucks the first time you bottom out it breaks the auger

Free world junk designed to break as fast as it can.

[rmatei]

I found the best way to sharpen is to use a sharpie pen to mark and cover the complete cutting angle. Then use a 600-800 diamond stone. The sharpie marks will show how well you are following the bevel. When you have removed the sharpie marks you are done and should have maintained the right bevel.

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by Isopod

I have a Strikemaster Lazer Mag Express auger, and I've given up trying to sharpen old blades. Every attempt, from using a bench grinder, to a set of Japanese sharpening stones, to a diamond sharpener, have been complete fails. They feel wicked-sharp to the touch after I'm done "sharpening" the old blades, but end up pathetic at drilling through ice, or they drill a few good holes and then go dull after one outing.

New (purchased) blades last me at least a year, and sometimes up to 3 years. I think the shorter end of the spectrum is probably when someone's car or truck has dropped some car-poo that has settled into the ice and contaminated things with sand and other road-grit before I try to drill through it.

I have had success sharpening hand-auger blades with purchased sharpeners designed for the job, but be sure not to use these sharpeners on power-auger blades, as the angle they cut the blade at is completely wrong for power-augers.

If you mess up the angle even a little bit the auger won't bite. The angle of attack is every bit as important as actual sharpness, and we are talking 3 or 4 degrees and no bite. My bet is that if you shim, those sharpened bales they will work just fine.

[PlayDoh]

Originally Posted by Isopod

I have a Strikemaster Lazer Mag Express auger, and I've given up trying to sharpen old blades. Every attempt, from using a bench grinder, to a set of Japanese sharpening stones, to a diamond sharpener, have been complete fails. They feel wicked-sharp to the touch after I'm done "sharpening" the old blades, but end up pathetic at drilling through ice, or they drill a few good holes and then go dull after one.

Sounds like you got them too hot. Bench grinding will do it in a hurry. Use a cloth wheel on a bench grinder and watch the heat. It doesn't take more then a pass or 2.

A blade that isn't hardened will dull quick, if not instantly. Heating a hardened blade makes it soft again.

I carry a spare everything almost, and blades are no exception. Get a spare and only polish the set that starts to feel not as sharp. Like 200 holes at least, through clean ice and properly cared for.

I've never sharpened my blades, and only polished them once. Took 5 mins.

Sharpening, forging and blades are a serious passion of mine, if it isn't obvious, lol.


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