Chainsaws

[Justfishin73]

Looks like Ill be taking some trees down. Looking at a new Stihl, old girl wont cut it . Pretty much settled on the Farm Boss 271---and since AO knows all....just curious on 16" bar vs 18 " bar. Only a $25 diff, but wouldn't the 18" have more jam?

[robson3954]

Only the engine provides more jam - the longer the bar on the same engine, the less cutting power.
Depends on the size of tree you're cutting.

[Geraldsh]

271 sounds a bit light for 18" bar. You can cut pretty big trees down with 16" bar, even buck up a 30" Dia. log if you don'y mind moving around a bit.

[robson3954]

True but as a rookie myself I don’t think I’d make great/safe notches/hinges/back cuts on a tree with a diameter twice the length of my bar lol

[raab]

Depends on the diameter of the tree and type of wood. Personally Id go 16" unless you absolutely need an 18", because for most trees in Alberta the 16" will be more then enough bar length. Main thing is to find the right tool for the right job. If your cutting down a 30" diameter spruce in the front yard, Id tell you to skip the saw and hire a professional.

[curtz]

16" will be good enough, I've cut some pretty big trees with a 16"

[Fwee6]

I've got the exact same saw, with 18" bar.
Cuts like mad through bigger and the small stuff.
Treat it properly, and you'll have no issues.
Expect it to cut like a feller buncher, you'll have issues.

[Justfishin73]

Sounds like I'll just go with the 16". Off to grab her today, thanks guys. Now we just need to get off the fireban. Doubt I've ever had this much firewood, and that's before these old ones even come down.

[jeprli]

I've used 18" bar on stihl 291 with RS chain. For pine and poplar it works wonderfull.

[Venison Assassin]

The 18” bar means you’d be adding more potential resistance because more chain could be engaged in cutting at any given time. Only the engine gives anything more ‘jam’. A sharp chain is the way to make the best out of whatever engine you have, so it’s even more important with smaller saws. I like a slightly longer bar as it helps with leaning over less when limbing a downed tree. An 18” or 20” is nice when your saw can handle it, and if you don’t bury the bar and keep your cuts modest you can have a longer bar on a smaller saw, just use technique to compensate for the power shortfall.

I’m guessing here but perhaps a smaller saw might get a bit more torque if smaller drive sprockets are available? You’d have less chain speed but better torque. I don’t know if there are any many options to mod the consumer grade saws as there are for the pro grade units simply because consumers wouldn’t be modding as much as pro’s.

[CranePete]

You could go to the 18” bar, and get a skip tooth chain. You’d get a longer bar(if that was the need), but fewer cutters, reducingresistance.
CranePete

[campingnut]

go with a 20'' bar your back will thank you after a long day of cutting trees,
I have the 1 size up from the old farm boss with a 20'' bar on it and it cuts like a dream,

[Nate_K1500]

I have a 45cc? Husky farmboss for sale. With extra chain and hard case. Pm me for more details, located in Red Deer

[Nate_K1500]

Sorry 55cc. 20" bar. It's like new, I've cut 10 trees with it

[JustBen]

I have a 20 on my 271. No shortage of power.

[blgoodbrand1]

I know others will disagree but I always default to the longest bar a saw can run well. It’s how I’ve learnt to saw and I’d argue those that champion short bars haven’t tried a longer one.
I have 2 rigs, a 372 and 562, both have 24” bars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[leo]

Originally Posted by blgoodbrand1

I know others will disagree but I always default to the longest bar a saw can run well. It’s how I’ve learnt to saw and I’d argue those that champion short bars haven’t tried a longer one.
I have 2 rigs, a 372 and 562, both have 24” bars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a Husqvarna 372XPG when I was limbing and slashing log decks. Great saws. I prefer a longer bar as well. I just knocked 10 black poplar down in my yard. Biggest went 34" across the butt at a yard up from the ground. I bought a new MS 391 with 20" bar to buck up that stuff, as my other saws are too small. I would have went 24" but they were out of stock. One thing important to keep in mind is not to use a bar and chain longer and heavier than what the saw is spec'd for. Number 1 reason is the saw will probably be under powered. Number 2, the oiler won't keep the bar lubricated enough and the whole assembly will overheat very quickly.