Trailer Brake Controllers

[ctd]

Originally Posted by Suzukisam

Yes he is right most sway problems arise from hitch issues. Any ball hitch is only good to 5000 lbs to go above that they need equalizer bars to get that 10,000 lb rating. I have tryed without bars on 8000 lb trailer and if you get in those right hand lane truck groves all crap brakes loose. I see people towing without them but over 5000 it’s manitory by DOT. Without them you only have class 3 hitch. But back to original question I use Tecnosha never had a problem and like the quick set up.

Please show reference to the specific law on this statement please?

The Tecnosha controllers are great.

[JB_AOL]

Originally Posted by kevinhits

Oh for pete's sake....All you know it all's on this board gets exhausting.....

Especially the same members go on and on....

Nice to equate me to a drunk driver....

If it is on the internet, must be true

Pot.. meet kettle.. 25 years of know-it-all!!.

[CaberTosser]

My thanks for the numerous kind offers of brake controllers sent to me in PM's. I have ordered one online already though and I have an older Reese controller in my pile 'o stuff as it is. Its nice how people on here step up with such generosity.

[sako1]

Originally Posted by Suzukisam

Yes he is right most sway problems arise from hitch issues. Any ball hitch is only good to 5000 lbs to go above that they need equalizer bars to get that 10,000 lb rating. I have tryed without bars on 8000 lb trailer and if you get in those right hand lane truck groves all crap brakes loose. I see people towing without them but over 5000 it’s manitory by DOT. Without them you only have class 3 hitch. But back to original question I use Tecnosha never had a problem and like the quick set up.

Huh? My 2 5/16 curt is rated at 18 000lbs. No equalizers. How on earth would guys pull skid steers and such around?

[JB_AOL]

Originally Posted by sako1

Huh? My 2 5/16 curt is rated at 18 000lbs. No equalizers. How on earth would guys pull skid steers and such around?

You have a 18,000# skid steer? (kidding)..

You'd actually be surprised how low some 1/2 ton receivers are rated w/o weight distribution. I had to replace my reciever on my 1500HD as it was only rated to 350# tongue weight w/o weight distribution.

Oh, and as has been shown in this thread.. Just because people are doing it (some for 25 years), doesn't mean they are doing properly and/or legally.

[sako1]

Originally Posted by JB_AOL

You have a 18,000# skid steer? (kidding)..

You'd actually be surprised how low some 1/2 ton receivers are rated w/o weight distribution. I had to replace my reciever on my 1500HD as it was only rated to 350# tongue weight w/o weight distribution.

Oh, and as has been shown in this thread.. Just because people are doing it (some for 25 years), doesn't mean they are doing properly and/or legally.

A guy definately has to know what his stuff is rated for. The hitch on my duramax is rated for 18 000. The shank and ball are also rated for 18 000. My skidsteer and trailer weigh 15 000. Good to go.

[Suzukisam]

Guys look at your hitch class rating. Class 5 is only 12,000 without equalizer and only 17,000 with. Most factory are class 3 on 1/2 tons and class 4 on one tons. Look up your hitch class and google the specs. There are two ratings for every hitch one without bars which is the lower and with bars for max towing. You are reading the rating for with equalizer (weight distributing) and assuming that that applies to just a drop bar and ball. And yup 10,000 lb skid steer + 1000 lb accessories and 3500 lbs of trailer adds up. And I bet that’s not a factory hitch Dakota has he upgraded his

[sako1]

Originally Posted by Suzukisam

Guys look at your hitch class rating. Class 5 is only 12,000 without equalizer and only 17,000 with. Most factory are class 3 on 1/2 tons and class 4 on one tons. Look up your hitch class and google the specs. There are two ratings for every hitch one without bars which is the lower and with bars for max towing. You are reading the rating for with equalizer (weight distributing) and assuming that that applies to just a drop bar and ball. And yup 10,000 lb skid steer + 1000 lb accessories and 3500 lbs of trailer adds up. And I bet that’s not a factory hitch Dakota has he upgraded his

You are generalizing. Lots of hitches out there are rated differently. Like mine for example. Factory receiver hitch on my 2014 duramax is rated at 18 000lbs. No equalizer bars.

[ctd]

Originally Posted by Suzukisam

Guys look at your hitch class rating. Class 5 is only 12,000 without equalizer and only 17,000 with. Most factory are class 3 on 1/2 tons and class 4 on one tons. Look up your hitch class and google the specs. There are two ratings for every hitch one without bars which is the lower and with bars for max towing. You are reading the rating for with equalizer (weight distributing) and assuming that that applies to just a drop bar and ball. And yup 10,000 lb skid steer + 1000 lb accessories and 3500 lbs of trailer adds up. And I bet that’s not a factory hitch Dakota has he upgraded his

Equalizer bars do not increase your hitch rating. They help control the trailer sway. Hitch rating is just that.
Most manufacturers recommend sway control bars above 5000lbs.
They recommend a fifth wheel over 12,000lbs

[ctd]

Originally Posted by sako1

You are generalizing. Lots of hitches out there are rated differently. Like mine for example. Factory receiver hitch on my 2014 duramax is rated at 18 000lbs. No equalizer bars.

for 2014 you can trailer ball tow 20,000lbs. Thats crazy amout of weight off a ball hitch.

[JB_AOL]

Originally Posted by ctd

Equalizer bars do not increase your hitch rating. They help control the trailer sway. Hitch rating is just that.
Most manufacturers recommend sway control bars above 5000lbs.
They recommend a fifth wheel over 12,000lbs

Kind of.. go look at your hitch (the receiver on your truck), there will be a sticker with two numbers, one with WD hitch and one w/o.

Also, just as an FYI You are mixing up terminology.

Weight distribution (WD) hitch, that is the one typically with the bars/chains (Equalizer is a brand name).

Sway control is something different, although most of the higher end WD hitches have them built in. Most people use the cheap (and IMHO useless) friction slide styles.

You SHOULD be using Sway control on all trailers above 5000#, whether it is one of the slip/friction bars or a proper sway control hitch. << This is where your above 5000# weight trailers applies. Note that you can use a Sway control device w/o a WD hitch.

WD should be used as required by your hitch receiver OR if you notice that your truck does not sit level or at the same relative angle as unhitched. WD transfers weight to the front of the TV, which in turn improves steering and braking.

Now this is where it gets more confusing, you have to keep under ALL your weights. As in, you need to make sure your are under your axle weights, as well as all GVWR, GCVWR, hitch, ball, shank, receiver, blah, blah blah. As an example, you may need to use a WD hitch to stay under your rear axle rating, even though your receiver says you don't need it. That is more common to SUV's, 1/4 & 1/2 tons.

Basically, WD makes your truck and trailer move as a single piece in the vertical axis or up/down (as much as possible), and forces your suspension to work properly (not porpoising). And sway control forces the trailer and truck to stay in line, side/side.

Sorry for the BLAB.. There's so much bad information out there regarding towing it's downright scary (I don't mean anyone in particular, just in general).
I really wish the Alberta LEO's would start enforcing this stuff.

[bat119]

I see rigs being towed incorrectly all the time I don't know how they get away with it.
If the front of your tow vehicle lifts more than a few inches with your trailer attached you should be using a WDH, (weight distribution hitch). With less weight on the front end you less control of braking, steering and suspension.



Over the years I've owned several types of WDH and sway bars by far the best I've used is the Fastway G2 round bar with sway control.

Its a lot of work getting it setup correctly but its worth it in the end.

https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/e2-hitch

Have a safe summer

[Suzukisam]

Originally Posted by ctd

Equalizer bars do not increase your hitch rating. They help control the trailer sway. Hitch rating is just that.
Most manufacturers recommend sway control bars above 5000lbs.
They recommend a fifth wheel over 12,000lbs

You are wrong on that. A class 3 hitch is rated for 500 lbs hitch weight and 5000 lbs trailer weight without equalizer bars. And when you put bars on it now lists it at 1000 ball wieght and 10,000 trailer wieght. So without your hitch is 1/2 it’s total capacity

[calgarygringo]

From Reese and they have been known to sell a hitch or 2.........


Class III - Larger trailers and accessories

1. Class III hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 6000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a 600 lbs. maximum trailer tongue weight (TW).
2. Class III hitches used for weight distributing are rated up to 10,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a 1000 lbs. maximum trailer tongue weight (TW)
3. Class III hitches are weight carrying (WC) and also are weight distributing (WD) depending on the vehicle and hitch specifications.
4. Not all Class III hitches are rated to be both. See the specific hitch for that information.
5. A Class III hitch usually has a 2" square receiver opening.
6. A higher class ball mount does not increase the towing capacity of the hitch. To use this class of hitch for weight distribution requires a weight distribution system.

Class IV - Larger trailers and accessories

1. Class IV hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 10,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a 1000 lbs maximum trailer tongue weight (TW).
2. Class IV hitches used for weight distributing are rated up to 14,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a 1400 lbs. maximum trailer tongue weight (TW).
3. Class IV hitches are weight carrying (WC) and weight distributing (WD) hitches depending on the vehicle and hitch specifications.
4. Not all Class IV hitches are rated to be both. See the specific hitch for that information.
5. A Class IV hitch usually has a 2" square receiver opening.
6. A higher class ball mount does not increase the towing capacity of the hitch. To use this class of hitch for weight distribution requires a weight distribution system.
7. Class IV hitches attach to the vehicle frame only.

[sako1]

[Suzukisam]

Yup just put a class one hitch on and go tow your 27 ft holiday trailer. If you don’t think there are regulations governing towing. Make sure you drive through Sherwood Park. You will find someone to show you the law