glass Bedding???

[u_cant_rope_the_wind]

where would one get the material to glass bed a gun ???
what is it called (the product )

[Gonehuntin']

I think the stuff you want is Brownell's Acraglas. It's a two part mixture that is tintable brown or black. I've only used it once so far and I had a knowledgable friend walk me through it, but it was relatively straightforward. And cheap. The kit was $30 or so and I had enough left over to do one more bedding job+ maybe a small stock repair or two.Yes, the stuff is supposed to be great for many kinds of stock repair.Gonna try it for that.I found some in Bashaw, but wholesale or russel's should have it.

[Wrongside]

I've purchased it at Russell's.

[ACKLEY ABE]

Brownells put out 3 different bedding products, last time I looked. Acraglas, Acraglas Gel, and Acraglas Steelbed. I've used all three, mostly, Acraglas Gel. It Is easy to use and come with complete instructions. By all means, use the release agent supplied. some ppl in the past have used spray on cooking oil with mixed results. They give you the release agent, use it. I also give the bbl and action a light coat of carnuba.

Dunno where you are, but usually Russells, Bashaw Sports, Wholesale Sports, or any good gun shop carry it.

[LuckySeven]

I use the Devcon 10110 Steel Putty....this is a good article for a read if this is your first attempt.
You can order this stuff in through NAPA, Parts Source, Acklands Grainger....etc
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

[decker]

I don't mean to high jack your thread but what does glass bedding your gun mean, and what does it do for the gun?

[Jason Balesdent]

I'll try to keep this short. Glass bedding is using a hardening material (epoxy) between the stock and action of your firearm. Your stock never matches the contours of your action perfectly and can twist things around on you. By bedding it you use the stock as a mold and the action as a die and the epoxy molds itself to the contours of your action absolutely perfectly when done right. This (usually) helps with accuracy because it keeps your action centered and free from any twisting / warping your stock may do. Done wrong on the other hand i.e. not using release agent, it can become the biggest headache you have ever had in your life because you glue your rifle together permanently. If this is your first time doing it, read the link above, find more instructions online and if possible get help.

[Remington700]

X2 on the devcon titanium putty. This stuff is just the right consistency. I found the designer glass bedding compounds to be runny and prone to bubbles, etc. when using it. Just be sure to use a release agent (and plenty of it, seriously there is no such thing as too much) or buy a hatchet to hack the stock away when you are done.

I've bedded several rifles and have one on the go as we speak. I have used Acraglas, Acragel, Devcon Steel Putty 10110 and JB Weld. If you're going to bed one or two rifles, save some money and use JB Weld. It's just as good as the rest of them but comes in smaller quantity. Two small tubes, one is the hardener. That should do for a couple of bedding jobs.

If you are going to bed a synthetic stock, tupperware, plastic or whatever one chooses to call them, there are some special precautions to take as plastics need some help in ensuring a good bond with the bedding agent. For a release agent, I use plain old Pam cooking spray, no special flavour. I like it because it gets into all the nooks and crannies. To block the trigger channel, and other receiver openings, I use plasticine. Before you apply the bedding agent, make darned sure everything is blocked as to not cause a "mechanical lock-up" when you got to release the barreled action from the stock.

[u_cant_rope_the_wind]

no problem decker that was a good question that deserved a good honest answer and i believe the guys gave it better than i could explain thank you guys for the info

Originally Posted by decker

I don't mean to high jack your thread but what does glass bedding your gun mean, and what does it do for the gun?

[decker]

Thanks guys.

[u_cant_rope_the_wind]

Well i went down to the local co-op bought some JBWeld and some metal epoxy and a 3/8 key stock and sat down wth my dremal drill and my stevens 2oo i took the stock off and started grinding out the plastic webbing in the stock till the key stock fit in
then I epoxyed it in place next i beded the action wth metal epoxy
then I sprayed the liveing caka out of the action and set the thing back to gether and set it aside , then I took my ruger hawkey apart and sanded it out so the the barrel was free floated then I packed it wth kids playdoe and put it back together I took all the exess off and placed the JBWELD in the luggspots and sprayed the metal down wth pam and put it all together ,
this mornin I took them apart kinda scared as to the outcome
suprise it turned out awsome
so off to the range i went wth them and my hyscore rest even though we have incredibly high winds 2day
my 257Roberts now gives me 1/2 inc 5 shot groups at 100yards and my cheap old model 200 stevens in 7mm-08 gives me 3/4 inch 5 shot groups at 100 yards wow I have impressed myself and the stevens has totaly blown me away wth how acurate it is
so thanks guys for all yer information I O U all a beer

[cbc_anderson]

Sounds like a fun project that I would like to try with my Remington SPS in .243. Quick question on the key stock, do you dremel down far enough to have the key stock resting on the bottom of the stock, or do you float it and suround it with epoxy? Also, how much key stock (what length) did you use to stiffen the stock?

Thanks,

CA

[Jason Balesdent]

A trick I've been thinking about (but haven't tried yet) is for the SPS stock I picked up off here to save my original off my Rem 700. I already packed the stock with fiber reinforced body fill. Now for the fun stuff, I plan on using an installers bit (can get them up to 5 feet long) and drill the stock from front to rear on both sides of the sling stud and install 2 carbon fiber rods in the holes and epoxy them there. The rods are available at any decent model shop and realtively inexpensive. If anyone has already tried this let me know,, if not I'll let you guys know when I do it. Heres hoping I can make it work.

[lilsundance]

I too have a question as I have never had his done or seen a rifle with it done. Ok now my question. Do you just do the action or do you do the action and barrel?

[Jamie]

WOW.. Once again.. I know knothing..
Ok.. SO what is free floating?

Can you have a gun "free floated and Glass bedded?"

Thanks
Jamie

[twofifty]

Jamie,

Free floating means that the barrel floats freely without touching the forestock. You see, when a barrel contacts its forestock, that rifle will usually throw shots in unpredictable ways. Free floating and bedding results is more consistency, therefore greater accuracy.

This is achieved by removing excess material from inside the forestock and action area, then closely setting the action and action lug(s) to the stock in a hard resin bed (or 'glass' bed). The gap between the barrel and forestock is maintained.

In such a 'bedded action', as the rifle recoils under fire or as the barrel vibrates and heats up, the relationship between the stock, the action and the barrel does not change - or rather, the parts interact consistently. A bedded rifle's stock is also not as likely to touch the barrel as the wood moves under wet conditions.

Some bedded rifles also benefit from their action screws running through stiff tubes that are also embedded in hard resin. This means that as you torque the screws to spec, you do not compress the wood or synthetic stock, which further maintains a consistent stock-action-barrel relationship.

Jason here is considering further stiffening the forestock by embedding carbon rods within it. This would help maintain a consistent forestock-barrel relationship, particularly when the forestock is subjected to sideways torque such as happens when position shooting with a tight rifle sling.

Couple years ago I had a smith bed the action and recoil lug on my wood stocked 700 and am very pleased with the predictable outcomes. If my rifle action was accurized, I would also go for the bedded action screws, and maybe Jason's forestock treatment.

[Bobby B.]

Some very good explanations here. Personally, I like to glass bed the shank of the barrel and float the remainder.

Bobby B.