Thinking of a new Honda SUV?

[Reel Time Rut Outdoors]

We have hd our CRV for 2 years now, and frankly it hasn't been that much of an issue. Just let it get up to temp before going anywhere, which is less time than my Ram 1500 is. Although its parked in the garage (unheated). We have a little mitsubishi also that does the same thing.

When we bought it looked at escapes, tuscons, CX5s, RAV4. Each were nice in their own way, but CRV was bigger and offered more at the time.

[ATF]

So not only does the temp drop.
Discovered frost INSIDE the headlight lenses yesterday!
That’s a new one.
And does anyone with the factory remote know why it can be started once with the remote but after that it won’t remote start again and I have to start it up manually and shut it off to remote start again?
Starting to wonder about this vehicle.

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by ATF

So not only does the temp drop.
Discovered frost INSIDE the headlight lenses yesterday!
That’s a new one.
And does anyone with the factory remote know why it can be started once with the remote but after that it won’t remote start again and I have to start it up manually and shut it off to remote start again?
Starting to wonder about this vehicle.

From the Honda Owner's manual.

NOTE: •After starting the engine in the 10-minute mode, restarting of the engine is inhibited for 10 minutes after stopping the engine. After extending the idling time in the 20-minute mode, restarting of the engine is inhibited for 20 minutes after stopping the engine. •When the front door (either the driver-side door or the passenger-side door) is opened or the ignition switch is turned on with the ignition key, the inhibition will be canceled, allowing restarting of the engine.

There is a bunch more info on your owners manual on how it works. Only know this because I just got done reading the one for the New Cherokee and it has similar timeout, delay features.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by Dean2

From the Honda Owner's manual.



There is a bunch more info on your owners manual on how it works. Only know this because I just got done reading the one for the New Cherokee and it has similar timeout, delay features.

This is common with most brands now, and even with aftermarket systems.

[ATF]

I think I'll rip the factory start out and put in aftermarket.
The restarts were half an hour to an hour after the first remote start and opening the doors didn't do it. I had to manually start the thing to reset it.
The range on these are crap anyway and they don't have any indicators it actually started by way of an indicator on the fob or lights on the car.
Not much point having a remote start if you have to stand next to the thing to make sure it started.
Oh well. At least it stays running when you remote start and open any door unlike Subaru and Mazda.
Oh and Honda's owners manuals are tiny. You need to go online to their website now to find a lot of info.

[amosfella]

This is one thing that I like about some German Brands, esp Mercedes. They do a lot of testing in northern Finland in the middle of winter, and in the hot areas in the summer. They seem to make cars that have better climate control.

[Reel Time Rut Outdoors]

The big concern with these CRVs would be the gas bypass in the pistons getting into the oil. This is common with small turbo engines. However the Honda engine in cold climates doesn't get up to high enough temperature to vaporize this gas which other engines due.

They have addressed this by offering extended warranty. But its important to ensure regular oil changes.

[Dynamic]

Originally Posted by ATF

Exactly right but while driving it does put out good heat. It's just the drop at every stop that sucks. Driving in the city in stop and go rush hour is not allowing the interior to warm up like driving on the highway

I’ve had an 05 civic, 07 civic, and currently a 2004 corolla. All of them exactly like yours, great heat at any temp at highway speed but when below about -25 engine temperature goes down if your stopping and going. For me it’s never been uncomfortably cold even at -40, it just is noticeably cooler. Myself personally I have not felt the need to put cardboard on any of my cars..

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by ATF

I think I'll rip the factory start out and put in aftermarket.
The restarts were half an hour to an hour after the first remote start and opening the doors didn't do it. I had to manually start the thing to reset it.
The range on these are crap anyway and they don't have any indicators it actually started by way of an indicator on the fob or lights on the car.
Not much point having a remote start if you have to stand next to the thing to make sure it started.
Oh well. At least it stays running when you remote start and open any door unlike Subaru and Mazda.
Oh and Honda's owners manuals are tiny. You need to go online to their website now to find a lot of info.

If you have a push button start, you want the vehicle to shut off when the door is opened. If it stays running, anyone can pop the lock and drive off with the vehicle. And mine won't start remotely unless the doors are locked, for the same reason.

[ATF]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

If you have a push button start, you want the vehicle to shut off when the door is opened. If it stays running, anyone can pop the lock and drive off with the vehicle. And mine won't start remotely unless the doors are locked, for the same reason.

Not really. They can't drive off without pushing the brake to shift which will kill the engine.
Having it shut off the engine when opening the doors or lift gate is just plain dumb.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by ATF

Not really. They can't drive off without pushing the brake to shift which will kill the engine.
Having it shut off the engine when opening the doors or lift gate is just plain dumb.

Since the engine shuts off when I open/unlock the door, I never got as far as stepping on the brake without restarting the engine first, so I didn't even realize that stepping on the brake would shut it off. I actually went out and tested this after reading your post, and it makes absolutely no sense to have the remote tied into the door locks , given that stepping on the brake will shut the engine off anyways. In fact it makes no sense to have the engine shut off at all, either with the door or the brake pedal, if I am carrying the remote with me. If they are worried about theft prevention, have the engine shut off any time someone steps on the brake with the remote not in the vehicle.

[omega50]

Buddy bought a 2019 VW Atlas this summer. Asked him about the quality of the heat in this cold weather after reading this thread..
Said it is ferocious at idle.Did not use full fan speed this past week.

He said-For what a new SUV costs these days it better have damn good heat.

[darren32]

Originally Posted by omega50

Perfect week to go on test drives.
Now I am suspicious of every new vehicle.
Our little 2007 Honda Fit with a 1.5l has good heat at idle in these conditions.
I don't buy fuel efficiency as an excuse.

My 2019 silverado (5.3l) is short on heat as far as I am concerned.
I disable autostop every time I start it.....
If you are talking on the phone it turns the fan way down (which is nice for noise) but you get not much heat at all. "I will have to call you back, I am freezing"

It's livable but it could definitely be better....

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by darren32

My 2019 silverado (5.3l) is short on heat as far as I am concerned.
I disable autostop every time I start it.....
If you are talking on the phone it turns the fan way down (which is nice for noise) but you get not much heat at all. "I will have to call you back, I am freezing"

It's livable but it could definitely be better....

Easy cure; don't pair your phone. Just use the hands free on the phone itself, assuming you have lots of heat with full fan speed. I have never heard of a 5.3 not putting out enough heat.

[darren32]

Originally Posted by Dean2

Easy cure; don't pair your phone. Just use the hands free on the phone itself, assuming you have lots of heat with full fan speed. I have never heard of a 5.3 not putting out enough heat.

I would say it's not enough heat will full fan speed when it -30C or colder.
Driver and passenger legs freeze in "auto". Wife cranks her side up to 24 and her legs are still cold.
Not enough to keep the front windows defrosted properly with 2 adults / 2 kids in the truck, even on "MAX" defrost .. then your legs really freeze...

Not nearly as much as the ford 6.7l diesel I have (once it's warmed up) or my previous F150 or Tundra or my wife SUV. They all have / had way more heat than this truck.

Like I said, it's livable for me but the wife does not like it.

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by darren32

I would say it's not enough heat will full fan speed when it -30C or colder.
Driver and passenger legs freeze in "auto". Wife cranks her side up to 24 and her legs are still cold.
Not enough to keep the front windows defrosted properly with 2 adults / 2 kids in the truck, even on "MAX" defrost .. then your legs really freeze...

Not nearly as much as the ford 6.7l diesel I have (once it's warmed up) or my previous F150 or Tundra or my wife SUV. They all have / had way more heat than this truck.

Like I said, it's livable for me but the wife does not like it.

Just out of pure curiosity, how does it work if you set it to manually split the heat on the window/defrost and feet, jack up the fan and activate the AC to dry the air out, rather than running on auto? Reason I ask is that may influence the next pickup.

[HyperMOA]

Originally Posted by darren32

I would say it's not enough heat will full fan speed when it -30C or colder.
Driver and passenger legs freeze in "auto". Wife cranks her side up to 24 and her legs are still cold.
Not enough to keep the front windows defrosted properly with 2 adults / 2 kids in the truck, even on "MAX" defrost .. then your legs really freeze...

Not nearly as much as the ford 6.7l diesel I have (once it's warmed up) or my previous F150 or Tundra or my wife SUV. They all have / had way more heat than this truck.

Like I said, it's livable for me but the wife does not like it.

That is weird. The wife just got a new suburban with the 5.3 and we sweat in that big monster. When she just leaves the garage (heated) it blows cool until engine temp is up. Once engine temp is to snuff we ride around in T-shirts last couple weeks. If it can heat the suburban a crew cab truck should be real simple. Never had it fog up either.

[darren32]

Originally Posted by Dean2

Just out of pure curiosity, how does it work if you set it to manually split the heat on the window/defrost and feet, jack up the fan and activate the AC to dry the air out, rather than running on auto? Reason I ask is that may influence the next pickup.

Good question but unfortunately I have not messed around with it enough to answer. I just keep switching between auto and max defrost. There is definitely lots of air there, just doesn't seem that warm. Probably could find a balance that works better than what I am doing but it would drive me crazy to not use the "auto".....

[darren32]

Originally Posted by HyperMOA

That is weird. The wife just got a new suburban with the 5.3 and we sweat in that big monster. When she just leaves the garage (heated) it blows cool until engine temp is up. Once engine temp is to snuff we ride around in T-shirts last couple weeks. If it can heat the suburban a crew cab truck should be real simple. Never had it fog up either.

Not sure. Maybe I should take it in and have them look at it. I think there are a couple of recalls anyway... With the 4 of us (wife and 2 kids) it's OK even at -40 but annoying to have to keep switching between auto and max defrost. The front driver and passenger lags are cold. The kids are fine in the back (or at least they don't complain). The 4 of us have thousands of miles in quite a few vehicles and have never had any issues with the heat in any of them. In the last 15 years I really don't remember having to do much with any vehicle other than putting it in auto and adjusting the temperature.

Went to Calgary and back Dec 11 (about -15C) with 5 adults in the truck and it pretty much had to stay on max defrost at least 50% of the time and everyone's legs were cold. At least I don't have to drive next time LOL.

It's not the end of the world but it's not as good as I think it should be.

[Stinky Buffalo]

My 2015 Jetta was struggling to keep the windows defrosted last week - let alone heat up the cabin.

First car I have ever bought that ever felt "drafty".

Oh, except my '77 Cadillac Sedean Deville D'elegance - but that was because part of the floor fell out.

[ratherbeoutside]

Without reading through all the comments, and not sure it’s the same issue in your case- I had the same thing with my 2008 Xterra. For several years I just assumed it was a design flaw but last year it got real bad. I started looking into it and all I had to do to fix it was add coolant. It wasn’t low before that, not even close to the low line, but I topped up the rad and filled reservoir up to the high level and heater works great now

[pinelakeperch]

Originally Posted by Stinky Buffalo

My 2015 Jetta was struggling to keep the windows defrosted last week - let alone heat up the cabin.

First car I have ever bought that ever felt "drafty".

Oh, except my '77 Cadillac Sedean Deville D'elegance - but that was because part of the floor fell out.

Which engine do you have?

[darren32]

Originally Posted by Dean2

Just out of pure curiosity, how does it work if you set it to manually split the heat on the window/defrost and feet, jack up the fan and activate the AC to dry the air out, rather than running on auto? Reason I ask is that may influence the next pickup.

I know it's not that cold today but I am pretty sure this will work just fine. With the fan on MAX there is plenty of air (and likely plenty of heat). In AUTO the fan never gets to max, even when it is warming up or you make a large temp change it only goes to about 75% at most. Then when it gets close to temp it cuts way back to next to nothing. Even in MAX DEFROST the fan does not got to max, which is surprising (and I did not know this until today). I assume the reason they did this is because the fan is pretty loud, they must know that, they shut the fan off when you are on the phone... I have never had the fan to max until I messed with it manually today.

So get the BOSE speakers (they really sound good for a stock system) and crank up the fan and you should be fine.

I guess it is what it is, but it could be better. Maybe I am too picky.




Sorry for the hijack.

[Stinky Buffalo]

Originally Posted by pinelakeperch

Which engine do you have?

2.Slow.

[pinelakeperch]

Originally Posted by Stinky Buffalo

2.Slow.

I have the same car. What a slug

Mine didn't come with a block heater. She wouldn't start during the cold snap.

I like the car overall. It's all I need for my long commute.

[Stinky Buffalo]

Originally Posted by pinelakeperch

I have the same car. What a slug

Mine didn't come with a block heater. She wouldn't start during the cold snap.

I like the car overall. It's all I need for my long commute.

Heh! Same reasons here - long commute, the car is cheap and uncomplicated. Manual transmission means the kids won't in a hurry to borrow it.

Gets nice and warm in temps warmer than -20 - how did yours fare in the cold?

[pinelakeperch]

Originally Posted by Stinky Buffalo

Heh! Same reasons here - long commute, the car is cheap and uncomplicated. Manual transmission means the kids won't in a hurry to borrow it.

Gets nice and warm in temps warmer than -20 - how did yours fare in the cold?

Mine's a manual as well. White and a manual - about as basic as they come.

Mine didn't do so well when it got past -25 or so, but it also didn't come with a block heater. I'm going to put one of those stick on ones from Canadian Tire and see if that makes a difference.

Does your speedometer read almost 10 km/hr faster than you're actually going?

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by pinelakeperch

Mine's a manual as well. White and a manual - about as basic as they come.

Mine didn't do so well when it got past -25 or so, but it also didn't come with a block heater. I'm going to put one of those stick on ones from Canadian Tire and see if that makes a difference.

Does your speedometer read almost 10 km/hr faster than you're actually going?

What will work best if you are putting it in anyhow is the recirculating type. You just need to splice it into a handy cooling hose and you are good to go. Huge difference in ease of starting, especially diesels.

There are versions from $70 to a lot. You can get a small line version from Canadian Tire or these large line versions. Both are pass through types. One of these with synthetic oil and it will start to -50.

[Stinky Buffalo]

Originally Posted by pinelakeperch

Mine's a manual as well. White and a manual - about as basic as they come.



Mine didn't do so well when it got past -25 or so, but it also didn't come with a block heater. I'm going to put one of those stick on ones from Canadian Tire and see if that makes a difference.



Does your speedometer read almost 10 km/hr faster than you're actually going?

Mine has a block heater and starts with no issues during cold snaps.

Yup, mine consistently reads 10% faster than the actual speed. Odd thing is, my readings off the CAN bus are accurate. The service manager at the dealership prattled on about how it’s a Transport Canada thing - and I know as to what he’s referring to - but it’s a simple thing to hook up to VCDS and correct the speedo offset. I believe it’s so the speedometer reads accurately if you opt for the bigger tires. However, they should be able to correct the speedo at the shop for the tires the vehicle was delivered with. Made me a bit upset - I’m buying a precision German vehicle here! Even my Fords didn’t have that issue.

Sorry for the derail, folks!

[Stinky Buffalo]

Originally Posted by Dean2

What will work best if you are putting it in anyhow is the recirculating type. You just need to splice it into a handy cooling hose and you are good to go. Huge difference in ease of starting, especially diesels.



There are versions from $70 to a lot. You can get a small line version from Canadian Tire or these large line versions. Both are pass through types. One of these with synthetic oil and it will start to -50.

For sure, that’s a great idea, Dean2.