Quote:
Originally Posted by chain2
ok probably a dumb question...Are the boat hulls the same on both 15" and 20" model transoms of say a wc 14? So cut 5" lower transom for a short leg? What is the advantage of a 15" transom if any? Is it a weight thing for the shorter shaft motor? thx chain
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Lunds are great boats and the ability to get a 20" transom is smart. I don't really know if there is any significant advantage to a 15" transom. If there is, I'm unaware.
I would guess the lower transom and lower engine makes for a lower center of gravity and might be a little more resistant to roll - but these IPS hulls are extremely safe, stable and hard to dig or roll.
The advantage (of the 20" transom) is the ability of the boat to carry a larger (heavier motor) and, of course, brings the stern up a little higher above the waterline (larger freeboard) to reduce taking a wave or chop over the stern and swamping you.
The weight difference is relatively small on the 15" shaft versus the 20" shafts but it is a good idea to set up your specific motor so that the top of the cavitation plate lines up even or about an inch below the lowest point of the hull.
Keep in mind almost every boat will run best slightly trimmed up after you get up on plane - so going with a power trim on smaller boats (if your budget allows) makes a dramatic difference in fuel economy, top speed, stability, smoothness and control which is real nice on those long runs.
A 20" leg would be the "standard" option for this boat and would allow a pretty routine install with the clamp positioned in the fully seated position.
On both SSV's I've owned (both 20" transoms and 20" legs) I had set up in the normal neutral position (did some test runs) and then ended up lifted the motor up to the highest position the slots allowed to get it up to about "even" when the engine was at 90 degrees. Just seemed to work a little better.
I assume the WC and AC models should be similar in set up.
Good luck - I hope that helps.