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  #61  
Old 12-02-2007, 09:52 PM
jrs
 
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I've encountered very minor issues with the tikka bolt being tight with certain factory ammunition (only 1 box). Still worked fine, worried me and i had to consult a gun nut to be safe.

Great discussion on bullets, energy, etc! I feel lack of knowledge along those lines leads to a significant portion of lost animals (i feel the numbers equal to the amount hit and never tracked because a miss is assumed). The one doe my brother downed this year had a previous bullet wound on the neck near the spine. I have shot deer in the exact same spot with a 270WSM, 270, and 303 British and in all three instances the hole and resulting blood was way more significant than what this shot did (all three of mine also collapsed on impact). I am convinced it was a FMJ or a very small caliber as it was a pass through but the exit hole was about the same size as the entrance. I have come accross two deer on that property in the past two seasons that were shot and not recovered, both in fairly thick brush, and both with similar wounds (no big exit whatsoever, coyotes had them chewed up pretty good but it was apparent how they died). Its likely a few bad apples but it may end up wrecking it for all of us. Some guy even shot one with a 22-250 a few years back, hard to proove but he was bragging it up.
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  #62  
Old 12-02-2007, 10:01 PM
sheephunter
 
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Quote:
Great discussion on bullets, energy, etc!
A ballistics talk with no name calling...lol Imagine that.....I agree, lots of great info here.
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  #63  
Old 12-02-2007, 10:49 PM
Short Round Short Round is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bignose View Post
Been thinking about a replacement for my Parker Hale Midland 30.06. I got it three and a bit years ago, used (of course) and not in bad condition. It's been ok for me, taken a couple of deer (one shot each).

Want something a bit more manageable (lighter weight, less recoil). Been thinking about .243 or 25.06, and after reading much of the above, and getting other good advice, I'm leaning toward the 25.06.

Couple of questions. I'm thinking of getting a Tikka (looked at them in P&D and like the look and feel, also like Finnish products, and Tikka less $ than Sako). See from above some good comments from Tikka owners - but need to ask - any problems with them?

Also, for the 25.06 guys out there, what do you shoot for deer, bullet-wise?

B
I haven't had any problems with my 7mm Rem Mag. Shoots hornady 140 grain interlock handloads (practice load) into .75 of an inch, shoots 140 grain TSXs into right around an inch -- recoil is a little stiff with the factory pad, but I shoot at the range with a slip on Limbsaver that tames it down real nice, and you don't notice the kick at game. Obviously, in 25-06 it'd be fairly easy on the shoulder. Can't comment on the stiff-closing bolt thing, since I've never shot factory in it. Mine does seem to have a fairly small chamber, but a fairly long throat -- only really matters if you handload. As a result, I have a little trouble getting bullets like the TSX and the tipped interlocks close to the lands while still fitting in the mag. But it doesn't seem to be a problem accuracy wise, so that's no big deal.

Other problems with it... haven't had any. I don't really like the detachable mag, but that's not a big deal. I don't really like any detachable mags. I've heard people complain about not being able to top load them. You can top load one at a time no problem, but top loading the mag's next to impossible while it's attached. I don't really consider that a big failing though. If you need more than four rounds in a hurry, you've got other problems.

So yeah -- slick bolt, light weight, fantastic shooter -- also, it seems to fit me a lot better than my Savage did, and the stock design seems to take out more recoil than the savage does. That thing (.270 WSM) kicked out of all proportion to its size.

I've run into a few guys at the range with them, and can't think of anything bad that i've heard. One guy was a little disapointed in the accuracy department, cause he was only getting 1.5" groups, but he'd only got it the day before, and hadn't been playing around with the loads too much.
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  #64  
Old 12-02-2007, 11:03 PM
Coldhill Coldhill is offline
 
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WOW, I got more than I bargined for. Thank you all for the advice and information. I would like you all to know that I am the owner of a 243.

There was alot of descussion about quarter - odd, and I am sure it is a great cal.

BUT...as I said, I am using this gun for dogs FIRST. I was looking for something that is a little easyer on pelts. Now I understand the 22-250 might be one of the 2 best ways to go, but I already have a 22-250. I am afraid that if I was to buy another one, with a bolt action, my single shot might not see the light of day.
I feel the 25-06 is somewhere along the lines of a 6.5x55 or a 7m-08. Both of which I curently own. A superb deer gun, as I subscribe to the theory of too much is better than not enough. I have a 7mm and a .300 for larger game, like Elk and moose, for me it is a tool box. Just in this case, ididn't want to own thow of the same cal. for the same pourpous.

A side not foy you all, I was given a hand load of 7mm shells once from a friend of mine. I am not sure, but I think it was loaded with a 100gr. partition. I am not sure so don't quote me on this. They were also a "HOT" load as he had said. I thought they would be great for deer. Well they were, as long as the deer were out to 300yrds. It hit where i was aiming. The issues were with deer that were within 100 yrds. as is the case most of the times.
I thought I was hitting the deer in a good spot, but I was unable to recover tne first tow I hit at these closer range. I tracked and tracked, finding just little spots of blood here and there. Night came fast and I never did end up finding them.
I was lucky enough to find the third deer I hit in the following year. When I started to gutt and skin the deer, I found that there were scorh marks at the entry hole and through to the vitals.
I guess this is were, my theory comes into play...


Is it possable for a bullet to be too fast, fast enough that the bullet was getting so hot that it scorched or almost cotterized the hole as it went? I knoe this is a lot to ask, but I had once heard that a 22-250 shot at 20yrds will go through a 1/4" steel plate where as other larger cals. won't. It has something to do with the whole energy is given off in heat and light? It MELTS it's way through? I have never seen this nor am I willing to stand behind a point blank shot at 20 yrds at a 1/4" steel plate neither.

Surely someone here could prove or disprove these wispers???

Thanks again for the very informative thread guys...

CH
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  #65  
Old 12-02-2007, 11:55 PM
sheephunter
 
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Quote:
Is it possable for a bullet to be too fast, fast enough that the bullet was getting so hot that it scorched or almost cotterized the hole as it went? I knoe this is a lot to ask, but I had once heard that a 22-250 shot at 20yrds will go through a 1/4" steel plate where as other larger cals. won't. It has something to do with the whole energy is given off in heat and light? It MELTS it's way through? I have never seen this nor am I willing to stand behind a point blank shot at 20 yrds at a 1/4" steel plate neither.

Surely someone here could prove or disprove these wispers???

Thanks again for the very informative thread guys...

An old wives' tale I'm afraid. Lead has a much lower melting point than steel so if the bullet got hot enough to melt steel, all the lead would melt out long before it reached the steel plate.
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  #66  
Old 12-03-2007, 09:29 AM
nekred nekred is offline
 
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You will love your .243!.....! Good Choice.... Coyotes gonna die!...
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