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  #1  
Old 09-05-2019, 07:55 PM
Prairiekid Prairiekid is offline
 
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Default Field point - Broadhead Experience

I recently switched over from my field points to a Wasp Havalon fixed blade broadhead. In the past I have used mechanical broad heads and found they landed a lot closer to the field point POI.

Anyways today, I kept shooting two Havalon arrow heads and two field points to confirm it wasn't my imagination. This was my last 4 shot group at 50 yards.



https://imgur.com/gallery/EzsiWLT

I measured it when I got home, 6 inches from the Havalon which is finally centered vs field point which is low right.

Last edited by Prairiekid; 09-05-2019 at 07:59 PM. Reason: For some reason the pic won't embed into the post.
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Old 09-05-2019, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prairiekid View Post
I recently switched over from my field points to a Wasp Havalon fixed blade broadhead. In the past I have used mechanical broad heads and found they landed a lot closer to the field point POI.

Anyways today, I kept shooting two Havalon arrow heads and two field points to confirm it wasn't my imagination. This was my last 4 shot group at 50 yards.



https://imgur.com/gallery/EzsiWLT

I measured it when I got home, 6 inches from the Havalon which is finally centered vs field point which is low right.
You need to do some tuning. Fixed broadhead will amplify any miss alignment of the rest/arrow/string.

What make and model of bow and what type of arrow rest. Also what are your bow's IBO, draw weight, draw length, arrow length and arrow spine?
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Old 09-05-2019, 09:25 PM
Prairiekid Prairiekid is offline
 
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Bow Tech, Carbon Icon - IBO 335 fps according to the internet.
Quad HDX
Draw Weight - 60 lbs
Draw Length - 28.5"
Beeman ICS Hunter Pro Carbon 340 - Not really sure on length, do you just measure the arrow shaft without nock or arrow head? They were cut at the bow shop.
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  #4  
Old 09-05-2019, 09:43 PM
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Arrows should be fine as they are a little on the stiff side which usually isn't a problem.

Based on your photo I would first bump your rest down 1/16 and see if you can get your FP and BH on the same horizontal plane. (fix 1 problem at a time).

Here is where most people get mixed up. When fixing up and down problems, you move the broadhead towards the field. BUT when fixing left and right issues you actually move the field point towards the broadhead. So in your case you would start by moving the rest 1/16 to the left.

What is your center shot set at now? (inside of riser to center of arrow shaft). Normally it will be somewhere between 11/16 and 15/16 with 13/16 being the norm for most bows
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Old 09-05-2019, 09:52 PM
Prairiekid Prairiekid is offline
 
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I'll have to do a bit of reading and a bit more shooting and get back to you. A couple new terms for me there
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  #6  
Old 09-06-2019, 08:06 AM
Pasc43 Pasc43 is offline
 
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Also make sure you're hard on the back wall with the broadbeads. Any creep will throw them off.
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Old 09-06-2019, 08:30 AM
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CanadianEh CanadianEh is offline
 
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Not sure if it helps in this situation or not..

But when I switched to fixed blade slick trick viper tricks, I had to swap my fetching. The Blazer vanes juts didn't cut it for steering a larger fixed blade broadhead. I swapped to AAE max hunter vanes, and presto no more way off shots. Everything grouped waaay better after that.
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Old 09-06-2019, 09:32 AM
Prairiekid Prairiekid is offline
 
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It seems my Center Shot is 7/8". I attempted to move my rest but it seems maxed out in both directions. When the rest is down it's resting on the bow and it is already as much to the left as it can go. Maybe it's not the ideal rest for this bow?



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  #9  
Old 09-06-2019, 11:36 AM
shooter12 shooter12 is offline
 
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I have not used Avalons but my Destroyer 340 shoots 100 gr Wasp Bullets almost to the same POI as field points up to around 40 yds .Past then they tend to go a bit lower . I've tried many other different brands (mechanical only) and they were always shooting apart from field points . So I settled on those as I don't like to do all this tuning things.

S12
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Old 09-06-2019, 12:27 PM
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To get your broadheads shooting inline with your sight we’re you moving the sight or the rest?
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Old 09-06-2019, 12:44 PM
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Also did you paper tune your field points? I would start there and then work the poi issue between the two heads. Just my 2 cents
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Old 09-06-2019, 02:14 PM
Prairiekid Prairiekid is offline
 
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I never paper tuned my field points. I had never had any issues when I switched over to the QAD rest, I didn't like that I had maxed out the rest in its horizontal adjustment but the bow shop seemed ok with it so I didn't really question them. I was shooting well with it. I leave for a trip in a couple weeks, right now the bow is sighted for the BH, and it is shooting well for 20,30,40 & 50 meters. Ideal would be to have the bow tuned for BH and FP to have the same POI, but I assume it should work just fine for one trip as it has been shooting well at The Block?
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Old 09-06-2019, 04:27 PM
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The only reason I wondered about the paper tune is it may give you more adjustment to get both shooting to the same poi. I’m thinking if your shooting the broadheads well then stick with that for the trip and figure out the field points afterwards but that’s just me.
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Old 09-06-2019, 04:36 PM
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Oh the other thing I noticed in your pictures is you can move the launcher of the qad over one set of holes to the left to get some more adjustment.
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  #15  
Old 09-06-2019, 07:10 PM
robson3954 robson3954 is offline
 
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Google the image broad head vs field point tuning. Adjust from there.
If hunting tomorrow I'd just go as is if all broad head shots are consistent.

If you have a couple days, start from square one and paper tune.
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  #16  
Old 09-06-2019, 10:14 PM
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Where are you located ?
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Old 09-06-2019, 10:21 PM
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Lefty-Canuck Lefty-Canuck is offline
 
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You need to paper and then bareshaft tune your bow. After you get this fine tuned, you will be shooting field tips and broadheads together. Keep in mind a bareshaft arrow flies like a broadhead tipped arrow does. The one caveat is when doing this sort of tuning your form has to be on point, or flaws in form will have you chasing your tail on a bow issue that isn’t there.

There is a fair bit to tuning a bow for perfect flight with fixed heads. As long as you have perfect flight same POI between field points and broadheads is not critical...BUT can be an indicator things are in perfect tune.

LC
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  #18  
Old 09-07-2019, 09:13 AM
Prairiekid Prairiekid is offline
 
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I was watching some videos last night about tuning my bow and also tuning my arrows. I'm pretty excited to get into it a bit. I enjoy that kind of a thing. I might be able to start from square one. I may be able to get out tonight after work tonight.
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Old 09-07-2019, 09:14 AM
Prairiekid Prairiekid is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brendan's dad View Post
Where are you located ?
Cannmore, but I work in Calgary.
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  #20  
Old 09-07-2019, 08:40 PM
Prairiekid Prairiekid is offline
 
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I didn't have time to make it to the range tonight but was able to move my rest and try a paper tune at home. It appears to be close?

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  #21  
Old 09-08-2019, 09:50 AM
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That is looking fairly close. I would move the rest down a touch or the d-loop up. If your d-loop ins't super tight on the serving you can follow the serving wraps and rotate the d-loop a couple of times to raise it up without undoing it.
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  #22  
Old 09-09-2019, 02:04 PM
Settle&release Settle&release is offline
 
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Before moving anything shoot two field points pull them out then shoot two broadheads at 20 yards and see how it looks. Then follow the field points with the broadheads. Meaning if the broadheads hit low move the rest up. It only takes a little for big results.
Then I would walk back tune with the broadheads only. Shoot at 20 then move back as far as you can consistently shoot from (the farther the better). If arrows hit left then move the rest right. Same here, a little bit goes a long way.
Once these two types are done you should be able to shoot any broadhead as long as the fletching combination is creating enough drag
Hope it helps

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  #23  
Old 09-14-2019, 09:08 AM
Prairiekid Prairiekid is offline
 
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Thanks for all the help guys. After paper tuning at home, it was getting close but I decided to take the bow into Jimbows. I was in between nightshifts and showed up as they opened. The service was great. I explained the issue and we finished the paper tune at the shop. Then I shot my own target block, that way I could use broadheads and field points. Unfortunately I was limited by the 20 yard range, so further shooting/tuning would have to wait. They actually told me they haven't seen a bow produce the same POI with both FP and BH, I thought odd but didn't feel like getting into it.

The next time i shot my bow was after a really hard workout and it didn't go so great. I plowed a broadhead into some rocks. So I tried to find more Wasp Havalon BH but they seemingly sold out since I purchased these less then a week ago. If I was just going hunting a hour from my place I would be ok only having two broadheads, but I'm headed to the Yukon. So I quickly ran to Wapiti Sports and picked up some QAD Exodus. I was very impressed with the quality and accuracy. There was nothing wrong with the Havalon but I prefer the Exodus. I hated having to spend cash on new BH, but I was happy with the result.

With the bow being much closer tuned and broadheads shooting well I decided to focus my remaining sessions before I leave on practicing my shot process, positions and using the clothing I will wear on the hunt. I used to be a national team biathlete and I was thinking I would never be fiddling with trying to dial in two types of ammo before a big event, so why am I doing that now. (although I understand the advantage of a tuned bow) In the end it will all come down to maintaining poise in the moment of shot execution.

When the season is done I will do some work and start from scratch!
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  #24  
Old 09-14-2019, 05:47 PM
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Good on ya and good luck on your hunt.
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