22-250 reloading help

[SuperCub]

Originally Posted by 7mmremmag

My 300 win mag handloads work fine, so im assuming it has something to do with the 22-250 being a bottle neck case!?

Both the 300WM and 22-250 are bottleneck and should be sized in the same manner. One I get to know they will fit in a chamber I neck size, belted cases included.

[Lefty-Canuck]

Measure the case head (with vernier calipers) right above the extractor groove on a factory round, factory once fired in the Remington, and a once fired not resized in the Prohunter and a Prohunter resized in your die....I have found many times that sticky chambering is a result of an "over expanded" not fully resized case head.

You may need to use a "small base" die for the brass shot in the Prohunter...or use only new brass and brass shot in the Remington, and your issue should go away.

LC

[tchardy1972]

I think we solved the problem. If you insist on using brass from another rifle you should look into a small base resizing die.

[7mmremmag]

Finally this is making sense to me now.
That must be my issue. The Virgin factory ammo that I once fired in my prohunter wont work with my Remington 700 even though it has been resized!?
So I guess ill just throw away all the brass I currently have and go with new brass?
Lefty you recommend me just neck sizing the brass after I use it in that rifle?
I really appreciate all your guys help.

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by 7mmremmag

Finally this is making sense to me now.
That must be my issue. The Virgin factory ammo that I once fired in my prohunter wont work with my Remington 700 even though it has been resized!?
So I guess ill just throw away all the brass I currently have and go with new brass?
Lefty you recommend me just neck sizing the brass after I use it in that rifle?
I really appreciate all your guys help.

Yes, neck sized only brass limits the amount you "rework" the brass and can give you extra life. The Lee collet dies allow you to resize the neck only and you don't have to use lube! Also neck sizing only can prove to make more accurate reloads with less run-out.

Just neck size with a collet die (it also decaps) and I use a Lee trimmer for .22-250 to trim the brass to length. Reprime, recharge, seat a bullet and good to go again!

LC

[elkhunter11]

Even though I have more than one rifle in some chamberings, I keep my brass separate. When I get a new rifle, I start with new brass, and neck size, until the cases no longer chamber easily, then I FL size them once, and then go back to neck sizing. You can also choose dies such as neck bushing dies, to minimize working of the case, and extend the case life. If you want maximum case life, anneal the necks every few firings.

[7mmremmag]

Great thanks a lot guys
Can anyone recommend a good neck sizing die?
Im off to the range now to put some factory ammo through this rifle so I will have some brass to reload!

[elkhunter11]

Since you already have Redding dies, just add a Redding neck die. Prophet River has the neck sizer die in stock.

[qwert]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

Yes, neck sized only brass limits the amount you "rework" the brass and can give you extra life. The Lee collet dies allow you to resize the neck only and you don't have to use lube! Also neck sizing only can prove to make more accurate reloads with less run-out.

Many traditional neck dies using internal expanders cause the same overworking (and work hardening) of brass, and uneven neck expansion and run-out concentricity problems of the similar FL dies. Brass thickness varies, and the traditional systems solve this by externally sizing the necks much smaller than required, then using an internal expander to size the inside of the neck to the correct size for proper neck tension. Neck bushing dies avoid the overworking of the brass and do not require an internal expander so avoid the uneven neck expansion and concentricity problems, but they require several different size bushings $$$ (or neck turning) to size brass of varying thickness.

IMHO, The collet neck die is a good cost effective design, which produces concentric resized necks without over working the brass. As usual with Lee products, they require careful cleaning, inspection and lubing before use, pay particular attention to remove any burr from the inside of the collet that can interfere with easy case neck entry into the collet, and can cause shoulder collapse and accordion. The collet will leave 4 vertical raised marks on the outside of the neck which can be removed by turning the case slightly and pressing again.
The Lee collet neck dies, are available with the excellent collet crimping die and a dead length non-crimping seater and a FL sizer, sold as the "Ultimate" 4 die set.
http://leeprecision.com/ultimate-rifle-die-set/
http://www.grafs.com/catalog/product...27365/inline/1

I suspect that the Lee (and many other) FL dies probably (over) resize the case to a dimension approaching a SB (sub base) die to ensure the sized case will fit in most chambers. I would also suspect that the Redding die is more correctly SAAMI sized. As previously suggested, the OP may be able to adequately FL re-size his Prohunter fired brass in a different die.

Good Luck, YMMV

[silver]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

.010" is a lot in this situation.Shortening the shell holder by .010" will allow the cases to chamber, but shortening the cases so much, will shorten case life, due to the extra working of the brass, at every firing, and sizing. I would expect that it won't take many firings before case separation occurs..

In trying to be brief, I have left my post open to misunderstanding. By shortening the holder, I gave myself some working room to find the proper amount to lower the die in order to get a proper sizing of the brass. I should be clear the die does not touch the holder.

The cartridge holder is now shorter than other holders and I marked it with vertical stripes to differentiate it from others. I believe the holder was a standard dimension, the problem was the die. I figured it was better to alter a $5 holder than an expensive die.

[elkhunter11]

Neck bushing dies avoid the overworking of the brass and do not require an internal expander so avoid the uneven neck expansion and concentricity problems, but they require several different size bushings $$$ (or neck turning) to size brass of varying thickness.

I generally purchase my brass in larger amounts, so that I don't have to deal with different brass thicknesses. Lapua in particular, seems to be very consistent as far as neck thickness goes. As a result, I don't require several different bushings.

[qwert]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

I generally purchase my brass in larger amounts, so that I don't have to deal with different brass thicknesses. Lapua in particular, seems to be very consistent as far as neck thickness goes. As a result, I don't require several different bushings.

I am not surprised that you use Lapua brass, it has probably the best reputation. I have been hearing reports of declining QC from Lapua and have personally had problems with Lapua primer pockets that were cut too deep and caused miss-fires. This is annoying from new brass that costs >$3ea. I agree that using consistent properly prepped brass avoids lots of problems.

Somehow I suspected you would be a neck turner.

Regards,

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by qwert

I am not surprised that you use Lapua brass, it has probably the best reputation. I have been hearing reports of declining QC from Lapua and have personally had problems with Lapua primer pockets that were cut too deep and caused miss-fires. This is annoying from new brass that costs >$3ea. I agree that using consistent properly prepped brass avoids lots of problems.

Somehow I suspected you would be a neck turner.

Regards,

I have heard a few complaints about recent Lapua brass, but I haven't seen any issues myself. I use Lapua brass for my 223rem, 6mmbr, 6.5x47, 260rem, and 6.5x55, so I have used quite a bit of it. Given that my Lapua brass has on average, cost me around $1 per case, I don't consider the price an issue, to have fairly consistent brass, that gives me a lot of use. And no, I don't bother turning brass.

[qwert]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

Given that my Lapua brass has on average, cost me around $1 per case, I don't consider the price an issue, to have fairly consistent brass, that gives me a lot of use. And no, I don't bother turning brass.

I would love to find 338 Lapua brass for <$3ea as it is usually more like $350/100, (and the plastic box is not nearly as usable as a $13 MTM). With brass this costly I do try to maximize case life by careful prep, and fire-forming with the case held back to the bolt face to minimize initial firing case wall stretching near the base, and by minimal re-sizing using Redding Comp bushing dies and shell holders. Considering the cost of the brass, the dies don't seem so costly.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by qwert

I would love to find 338 Lapua brass for <$3ea as it is usually more like $350/100, (and the plastic box is not nearly as usable as a $13 MTM). With brass this costly I do try to maximize case life by careful prep, and fire-forming with the case held back to the bolt face to minimize initial firing case wall stretching near the base, and by minimal re-sizing using Redding Comp bushing dies and shell holders. Considering the cost of the brass, the dies don't seem so costly.

Prophet River charges $300 per 100 cases.

[Big Thumper]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

Prophet River charges $300 per 100 cases.

http://store.prophetriver.com/lapua-...-8-6x70-100ct/

[SuperCub]

Originally Posted by 7mmremmag

Can anyone recommend a good neck sizing die?

Lee collet dies work well.

[Blake]

Try this before you spend anymore money.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBWu9gDcKmw

[7mmremmag]

I will give that a try for sure.
I never thought to run the brass through my rifle first before I reload it.
Now one question, if he correct when he says if the brass has an indent like that that you can still reload it??? I have been throwing mine away
Thanks

[tchardy1972]

Originally Posted by 7mmremmag

I will give that a try for sure.
I never thought to run the brass through my rifle first before I reload it.
Now one question, if he correct when he says if the brass has an indent like that that you can still reload it??? I have been throwing mine away
Thanks

Pretty sure that dent is from too much lube on the shoulder that had no place to go when resized. It's not ideal but not a huge issue.

[Pathfinder76]

Originally Posted by Blake

Try this before you spend anymore money.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBWu9gDcKmw

That guy is an idiot.

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by chuck

That guy is an idiot.

You mean you don't trust a guy called "Bubba Rountree"?

LC

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by chuck

That guy is an idiot.

You give him too much credit.

[Pathfinder76]

Laughing.

To the OP. Get rid of the once fired brass. Buy new brass and at least most of your problems will disappear.

[Blake]

Originally Posted by Blake

Try this before you spend anymore money.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBWu9gDcKmw

Try adding the quarter turn. Bubba's appeal or intelligence aside, I found the vid because I was having the same problem and this cured the issue.
I haven't seen any dimpling in the cases.