Problem with a Jiffy 3horse STX.

LacLaBicheNS · #1 02-20-2013, 09:49 PM

Its not my auger, but I will be using it for a week.

I'm guessing its around 7 or 8 years old, 3 horse STX, 10 inch auger.

It runs fine. I think it could use the carbs adjusted to get higher rpms, but I am not sure if its supposed to run on high rpm's?

Anyways, when you try to auger a hole as soon as the auger meets a little bit of resistance, the auger stops turning and the engine bogs down a bit. The engine sounds like it has enough power to turn the blade, but it won't. Do these augers have some sort of clutch or something that could be slipping? I don't hear any gears grinding so they aren't slipping.

Blades seem really sharp. Maybe they are biting into the ice too much?

The weight of the auger itself is enough to make the blades stop turning in the ice.

suggestions?

Kale 19 · #2 02-20-2013, 09:56 PM

I have a jiffy stealth 3hp with the same issue. Starts great but bogs down right away. I constantly have to keep on the primer like its not getting enough fuel when strained.

LacLaBicheNS · #3 02-20-2013, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kale 19

I have a jiffy stealth 3hp with the same issue. Starts great but bogs down right away. I constantly have to keep on the primer like its not getting enough fuel when strained.

So your saying its bogging down due to not enough gas or power?

I have seen the auger I am using work great 4 years ago, but not anymore.

Maybe I'll try to adjust the carb to get some higher rpms and see if that helps.

linemanpete · #4 02-20-2013, 10:23 PM

Premium fuel?

338Bluff · #5 02-20-2013, 10:32 PM

That is a Jiffy. I have one and I curse the day I ever bought it. Fortunately it starts every time otherwise I would have replaced it long ago. The blade arrangement also packs with slush and won't cut. It has been into the shop at least 3 times for a carb adjustment and cleaning and after a few trips it is back to bogging out. Running premium fuel with conditioner and still no good.

Once this hunk of junk bites the dust I will be in the market for a new auger and it will not be a Jiffy. I don't care if they have improved, a manufacturer only gets to fool me once.

BBJTKLE&FISHINGADVENTURES · #6 02-20-2013, 10:39 PM

When was the last time you put clean fuel and stabilizer in it . Found that with any jiffy I ever owned if there's no fuel stabilizer in it it gums up the engine .

Dacotensis · #7 02-20-2013, 10:43 PM

Hey, remember this thread?http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=164901

No more advice for you until you give me the skinny on your truck.

338Bluff · #8 02-20-2013, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBJTKLE&FISHINGADVENTURES

When was the last time you put clean fuel and stabilizer in it . Found that with any jiffy I ever owned if there's no fuel stabilizer in it it gums up the engine .

In my case every tank had fuel stabilizer in it. Will be interesting to hear if OP has the same experience. I have been using Sea Foam for the last little while.

BBJTKLE&FISHINGADVENTURES · #9 02-20-2013, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 338Bluff

In my case every tank had fuel stabilizer in it. Will be interesting to hear if OP has the same experience. I have been using Sea Foam for the last little while.

I wouldn't put anything but what they call for which is that little red container of jiffy fuel stabilizer . I used nothing but after the first time and never an issue after that except a new spark plug every other season . Nothing worse then being on the lake that you can't punch holes into .

bubba 96 · #10 02-20-2013, 11:25 PM

Try the vent on the gas cap has to be open, also air mixture has to be set augers are made in Wisconsin and diffrent altitude, mine did that got carb set, and is good to go never had a problem since, I bought mine before the sxt came out, also mine doesn't rev that high, but when I put pressure on it it kicks into a second speed....I also use a synthetic 2 stroke oil and premium gas, I try to use a stabilizer but usually just run it dry in the spring... I also get my blades sharpened every yr, it doesn't take much to take the edge off but still seem sharp....
I'm extremely happy with this auger, and it's helped a many of fisherman, when there's has crapped out, and Iv only changed the plug once.....and I drill at least 10 to 20 holes every trip out....

Walleye101 · #11 02-20-2013, 11:41 PM

I just went through the exact same thing with mine. I changed the plug, and cleaned out the carb. It runs like new again!

lopinyote · #12 02-20-2013, 11:48 PM

Ifit starts fine and has no or very little bog when you hit the throttle what you need to do is adjust the high needle..its tricky but run the auger wide open and then turn high needle in till u hear engine start loading power or running bad..then start turning it out till it starts running bad..then you basically turn it back to the mid way point and you should be fine..the high needle is the one farthest from the engine and you won't have to adjust much 1/4 turn both ways at the most.
But saying that I have seen them run best with the high turned all the way in..hope this helps you.

lopinyote · #13 02-20-2013, 11:50 PM

Loosing power ...not loading power!!...sorry..lol

LacLaBicheNS · #14 02-21-2013, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dacotensis

Hey, remember this thread?http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=164901

No more advice for you until you give me the skinny on your truck.

ha.. sorry, forgot about that.

I took a look at the diff and transfer case fluid and its all clean and fresh. Yet the truck still makes a noise in 4x4 when rpm's get around 1800-2000. No clue whats wrong with it. I am waiting until it warms up to take a better look at it.

I was told the noise might be normal????? I have no other GMC duramax around to compare it too though.

I did find it doesn't matter if the trucks in tow mode or not. If the rpm's get too high, then I get the noise.

I think its a u joint. But like I said, when it warms up I'll take a better look at it.

LacLaBicheNS · #15 02-21-2013, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bubba 96

Try the vent on the gas cap has to be open, also air mixture has to be set augers are made in Wisconsin and diffrent altitude, mine did that got carb set, and is good to go never had a problem since, I bought mine before the sxt came out, also mine doesn't rev that high, but when I put pressure on it it kicks into a second speed....I also use a synthetic 2 stroke oil and premium gas, I try to use a stabilizer but usually just run it dry in the spring... I also get my blades sharpened every yr, it doesn't take much to take the edge off but still seem sharp....
I'm extremely happy with this auger, and it's helped a many of fisherman, when there's has crapped out, and Iv only changed the plug once.....and I drill at least 10 to 20 holes every trip out....

vents open. Thats a no brainer lol.

I put a new plug in it last night and emptied the old gas and filled it with fresh premium with sea foam. I ran it last night for about 40 mins. I'll run it again tonight to try to get the crap out of the engine. I know it has never had fuel stabilizer or conditioner in it.

lopinyote · #16 02-21-2013, 07:34 AM

Had a 95 GMC did the same thing..the u joints on the transfer case were seized up..

Mike_W · #17 02-21-2013, 07:41 AM

I bought a new model 30 a few years back and it took me a long time to get it running good.
First the carb needed adjustment.
Second was I need to let it warm up .... Not just 20 seconds like I hear/see many others do, depending on the temp 3-5 min.
I also switched from the jiffy oil to husquvarna or stihl individual bottles that mix perfect with 5 liters of premium this also has fuel stabilizer.
As with any of my high performance two strokes gas that is over 2-3 months old gets put in the lawn mower..... Keep your fuel stabilized and fresh, just cause you have stabilizer in it doesn't mean keep running until its gone!

To the op I would suspect you need to clean the carbs and then run the auger quite hot and adjust them accordingly.

jdselman@hotmail.com · #18 02-21-2013, 07:44 AM

I have to play with the primer tel it warms up then it's ok I played with the idle and gas mixture on the carb, best done on the ice.

baptiste_moose · #19 02-21-2013, 09:10 AM

Search factory carb specs for that model on the Internet. There are 2 screws L ( low idle ) and H ( high idle ). Set both to factory specs then play around with the L. Leave the H at factory specs or you'll burn it up. Another thing to remember is the augers have no float bowls in the carb. They run a small diagram. Same as a chain saw. So they can gum up quickly. DO NOT run fuel with ethanol in any 2 stroke let alone diagram carbed models. It's the worst thing you can do for them. Also run a touch leaner then specs say with your mix but if your gonna do that use good oil like an AMS or similar grade.
Good luck

Dorin

dodgeboy1979 · #20 02-21-2013, 09:18 AM

buy yourself a new spark plug, and some carb cleaner. remove the old plug and soak the carb in cleaner. Let it sit for 15 mins, then with the plug still removed pull the rope and blow all the **** out of the engine. Do this a couple times and reinstall the new spark plug.

baptiste_moose · #21 02-21-2013, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dodgeboy1979

buy yourself a new spark plug, and some carb cleaner. remove the old plug and soak the carb in cleaner. Let it sit for 15 mins, then with the plug still removed pull the rope and blow all the **** out of the engine. Do this a couple times and reinstall the new spark plug.

Just soaking the carb in cleaner won't do anything except destroy it. It would need to be taken apart and all components soaked except the diagram screen cause carb cleaner will destroy the rubber seals on the diagram and good luck ordering those!! Sounds like this AO wants to do the job right the 1st time.

dodgeboy1979 · #22 02-21-2013, 10:11 AM

how will carb cleaner destroy rubber seals?

AppleJax · #23 02-21-2013, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baptiste_moose

Just soaking the carb in cleaner won't do anything except destroy it. It would need to be taken apart and all components soaked except the diagram screen cause carb cleaner will destroy the rubber seals on the diagram and good luck ordering those!! Sounds like this AO wants to do the job right the 1st time.

X2

AppleJax · #24 02-21-2013, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dodgeboy1979

how will carb cleaner destroy rubber seals?

It removes varnish and subsequently dissolves rubber.

dodgeboy1979 · #25 02-21-2013, 10:55 AM

i would agree it it was soaked overnight or longer being hard on the seals, but a short soak to remove some of the gum shouldn't be harmfull.

English Setter · #26 02-21-2013, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by baptiste_moose

Search factory carb specs for that model on the Internet. There are 2 screws L ( low idle ) and H ( high idle ). Set both to factory specs then play around with the L. Leave the H at factory specs or you'll burn it up. Another thing to remember is the augers have no float bowls in the carb. They run a small diagram. Same as a chain saw. So they can gum up quickly. DO NOT run fuel with ethanol in any 2 stroke let alone diagram carbed models. It's the worst thing you can do for them. Also run a touch leaner then specs say with your mix but if your gonna do that use good oil like an AMS or similar grade.
Good luck

Dorin

First turn the high idle (right one) CW until the motor stalls. Then back it out CCW about 1/4 turn so the motor runs again. Test on the ice under load. If it stalls under load, turn the high idle CCW fractionally, 1/8 turn and test it on the ice under load. If it still stalls, turn another 1/8 turn CCW and so on. Shouldn't have to back it out a full turn before it doesn't lose power under load. Just got mine working again like new after fussing for years.

baptiste_moose · #27 02-21-2013, 01:08 PM

Just telling ya what I know. Those seals will crack and start leaking in a short period of time. Then you have leaking fuel issues plus it will run way rich. Do not soak the whole carb. Very short term solution. Especially something that spend alot of time sitting.

LacLaBicheNS · #28 02-25-2013, 12:00 AM

I played around with the high speed screw. Made a big difference. Auger is turning much faster now. I haven't had a chance to test it on the ice, but I think it will work much better now.

I have also burnt half tank of fresh prem gas with sea foam in it in the garage. Seemed to help as well.

Dacotensis · #29 02-25-2013, 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by English Setter

First turn the high idle (right one) CW until the motor stalls. Then back it out CCW about 1/4 turn so the motor runs again. Test on the ice under load. If it stalls under load, turn the high idle CCW fractionally, 1/8 turn and test it on the ice under load. If it still stalls, turn another 1/8 turn CCW and so on. Shouldn't have to back it out a full turn before it doesn't lose power under load. Just got mine working again like new after fussing for years.

How was this missed? Three days ago???
Welcome to the forum.

Come on guys, a welcome is in order.

Gilligan · #30 02-25-2013, 07:38 AM

poor running under resistance is the high speed setting.

it's the screw on your right when you are looking at the side
of he carb with the setting screws. Turn it out about 1/4
turn and that should improve it. ( counterclockwise )

These are all set at the factory according to the altitude.

Not many around this part of the country DON'T need a setting.

I've tuned many Jiffys with the Tech. motors on them.

Before you tear it apart ... just set it.