Decided to paper tune

[Hogie135]

Well paper tuning sure showed me a lot. Pretty bad I'd say. So I know to correct the vertical first. That being said do I just force my d loop down cuz it's pretty tight or do I make a new d loop?

[Hogie135]

The pic uploaded upside down. I'm high and right

[Lefty-Canuck]

Are you getting nock pinch?

Do you tie in your d-loop?

Have someone check at full draw if your nock has slight up/down movement.

LC

[Hogie135]

Here's what it looks like

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by Hogie135

Here's what it looks like

Looks like you might be getting some nock pinch, you need to open up your d-loop a bit. If you tie a nock point inside your d-loop on the bottom it will help keep your arrow pressure on the rest.

Does your arrow sometimes feel like it's lifting up as you draw back?

I tie in both the top and the bottom on my bows. Then the d-loop stays put it won't close over time.



LC

[Hogie135]

What do you use to tie in a nocking point? Serving material?

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by Hogie135

What do you use to tie in a nocking point? Serving material?

18 thou serving material

LC

[Hogie135]

I redid my d loop. Kept adjusting it down but no change.

[Hogie135]

Maybe my spine is too stiff? Shooting 340 spine, 28" @60 lbs

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by Hogie135

Maybe my spine is too stiff? Shooting 340 spine, 28" @60 lbs

I have used 340spine at 60# at 28" before in my D350.

What bow are you shooting? How far away is the paper you are shooting? Is it pulled really tight?

LC

[Hogie135]

2016 Hoyt powermax, paper is pretty tight, could maybe be a bit tighter. Shooting at maybe 4-5 metres

[Hogie135]

I did a walk back tune yesterday at 40-30-20 and it was bang on

[brendan's dad]

Originally Posted by Hogie135

Here's what it looks like

Is this a photo of you just before you are about to shoot? If so, I would suggest your 1st issue to tackle is your draw length is about an 3/4 to an inch too long. Where the nock meets the string should be at the corner of your mouth. Too long of a draw will definitely induce torque and make paper tuning very difficult.

There are some really great threads on archery talk about draw length, form and reducing torque.

[Hogie135]

Originally Posted by brendan's dad

Is this a photo of you just before you are about to shoot? If so, I would suggest your 1st issue to tackle is your draw length is about an 3/4 to an inch too long. Where the nock meets the string should be at the corner of your mouth. Too long of a draw will definitely induce torque and make paper tuning very difficult.

There are some really great threads on archery talk about draw length, form and reducing torque.

No it is not right before I shoot. I took the pic just to show Lefty my d loop/nock position. Not saying my form is perfect by any means but my anchor point while shooting is pretty solid

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by Hogie135

2016 Hoyt powermax, paper is pretty tight, could maybe be a bit tighter. Shooting at maybe 4-5 metres

4-5 meters is too far, shoot it at 0.5-1m and 20m. You measure it coming out of the bow and at 20m after it settles.

Proof is in the pudding if you walk back tune and it's good...it's good, shoot broadheads and if the POI is good you are good.

LC

[Hogie135]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

4-5 meters is too far, shoot it at 0.5-1m and 20m. You measure it coming out of the bow and at 20m after it settles.

Proof is in the pudding if you walk back tune and it's good...it's good, shoot broadheads and if the POI is good you are good.

LC

Awesome! Thanks for your help

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by Hogie135

Awesome! Thanks for your help

At 4-5m you arrow is still flexing and hasn't settled yet, you want to check it coming right out of the bow, quite often the paper is close enough my target stab 27-30" almost touches it.

LC

[Hogie135]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

At 4-5m you arrow is still flexing and hasn't settled yet, you want to check it coming right out of the bow, quite often the paper is close enough my target stab 27-30" almost touches it.

LC

I'll try closer tomorrow.

[kujoseto]

I've found walk back and broadhead poi to be most accurate with my set up. Paper tune would probably be more for getting things close after setting up the equipment but I think it would be a step backward doing paper tune after walk back.
I'm no pro though and don't charge for any bow services

[Garry G]

I had a Mathews that I could not paper tune. I shoot right hand and the tear was tail left. The proshop noticed a little cam lean and put 2 twists in the right yoke and that fixed it.

[Hogie135]

Originally Posted by Garry G

I had a Mathews that I could not paper tune. I shoot right hand and the tear was tail left. The proshop noticed a little cam lean and put 2 twists in the right yoke and that fixed it.

I was thinking maybe that too. I'll be going to Poachers Corner in Glendon tomorrow to get some help.

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by Hogie135

I was thinking maybe that too. I'll be going to Poachers Corner in Glendon tomorrow to get some help.

Cam lean is absolutely instrumental to work on while paper tuning. Part of the reason I like the binary cam system Bowtech has, it's the most "tunable" system.

LC

[brendan's dad]

I have tuned a couple Chargers (identical to the Powermax) and the yoke adjustments are easy and critical to a proper tune.

[Hogie135]

So to me it looks like my cam is slightly leaning left. This tells me I need to take some twists out of the left yoke and add some to the right? Can I do this without a press? I watched a video of a guy using his hand to squeeze the down cable so he could insert a screwdriver in the cam to stop it going back to its rest position and he adjusted his yokes. I'm not sure if this is good idea or bad.

[Hogie135]

Another pic

[Hogie135]

And the first pic right side up.

[Lefty-Canuck]

Don't mess with the strings or cables without a press. Not sure with Hoyt but with Bowtech there is always pre-lean. Let the paper tune tell you what to do.

LC

[Hogie135]

Well I've got an appt tomorrow with a local shop. Hopefully have it sorted out there.

[brendan's dad]

Originally Posted by Hogie135

So to me it looks like my cam is slightly leaning left. This tells me I need to take some twists out of the left yoke and add some to the right? Can I do this without a press? I watched a video of a guy using his hand to squeeze the down cable so he could insert a screwdriver in the cam to stop it going back to its rest position and he adjusted his yokes. I'm not sure if this is good idea or bad.

I would not use the screw driver method. Also, use your paper tuning results to adjust yokes as most bow will have some cam lean at rest. If your arrow is tearing right, then add twist to the right yoke and remove same amount from the left. Adding and removing equal amounts will keep the cam timing in sync.

[Hogie135]

I'm pretty sure my Hoyt is untunable. Either that or I suck at it. Probably the second one. So I went to a shop in Glendon to get help paper tuning. At the end I had bullet holes like I should. Problem is, is that I was maxed out left adjust on my rest and maxed out left on my sight. So happy with the bullet holes, I went to the range and was about 18" left of target at 20 yards with no more adjust on the sight to compensate. So I brought the bow back to where it was when I started and I'm hitting target but arrows sticking out in all directions. Maybe it's my rest. I don't know. I'm thinking of buying a new rest or driving the 3 hours to the city to see if Jimbows can help.

I'm at a loss on what to do, and two weeks til my elk trip.