Wet rifle - questions

[3blade]

So I got caught in that storm last night, everything including my rifle (wood stock with pillars, blued barrel/action) got soaked. Warmed and dried last night. Today I took the stock off and wiped off the remaining moisture. Looks like the stock absorbed a little just in front and behind the recoil lug, so it's gonna have to sit and dry for a while.

1) I've heard you don't want oil on the bedding surface, so what do you put on the receiver/recoil lug metal to prevent rust? Or is this a non issue with pillars?

2) can anything be applied to the stock to seal it, without affecting accuracy? I'm not about to attempt bedding during the season, maybe a winter project.

[elkhunter11]

I spray down the barreled action with G-96 Gun Treatment, then wipe off all that you can. You can use a wood sealer or a wax to seal the stock, but once you remove the barreled action from the stock, you need to verify the zero again.

[icehunter]

Wipe down with G96 as stated. For the wood apply a couple of coats of tru-oil with a modellers paint brush. Let dry a couple of hours between coats. No tru-oil? Use some clear from a autobody shop, or grab a rattle can of clear coat,shake well and spray on a piece of paper. Dip the brush in it and cover all exposed wood areas. Stocks should be sealed before using them out hunting anyways.

A couple of coats will seal the wood in and prevent swelling,oil soak from applying gun oil and all sorts of other headaches.

[oldgutpile]

I agree with the use of true-oil, but not using a brush for the application. It should be dabbed on and rubbed in thoroughly. Use multiple coats if necessary, 24 hrs apart, but if you put it on too thick, it could take until next season to dry properly!

[Pathfinder76]

G96 is mentioned quite a bit on this forum but in my experience can not hold a candle to CorrosionX or Eezox. As for the stock, True Oil is useless for preventing a good soaking from getting in the stock. An epoxy based finish would be recommended.

[spoiledsaskhunter]

stainless synthetic?

[Battle Rat]

You will find the most wood stocks are not sealed in the action area.
I've used tung oil on the in letted areas to reduce the absorption of water in the wood.
Swollen wood can cause changes to POI.
As you probably already know so can removing the action from the stock.
Confirm that the POI haven't changed when you put it back together.

[tikka250]

I'm amazed nobody has mentioned good old paste wax yet. I find a good rubdown with pastewax keeps moisture out and the stock looking nice.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by tikka250

I'm amazed nobody has mentioned good old paste wax yet. I find a good rubdown with pastewax keeps moisture out and the stock looking nice.

Wax was mentioned in post #2

[tikka250]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

Wax was mentioned in post #2

well then apparently im blind these long hours at work must be getting to me

[Dean2]

Glass bed your action and recoil lug, tru=oil then Renaissance wax the rest of the barrel channel mag well etc. WS-30 is specifically designed to displaced water. Best method of quick drying an action and stock, followed by a good coat of Renaissance wax on the wood and steel parts followed by a good gun oil or Eesox coating on the metal.

[Prairiewolf]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

I spray down the barreled action with G-96 Gun Treatment, then wipe off all that you can. You can use a wood sealer or a wax to seal the stock, but once you remove the barreled action from the stock, you need to verify the zero again.

x2 - great in-season approach. My gun gets some G-96 after each trip, with a more thorough approach once the season is over.

I don't see the harm in having some oil on a bedding surface either - beats having some rust from pillars or worse, swelling of a wood stock.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by Prairiewolf

x2 - great in-season approach. My gun gets some G-96 after each trip, with a more thorough approach once the season is over.

I don't see the harm in having some oil on a bedding surface either - beats having some rust from pillars or worse, swelling of a wood stock.

Oil on the bedding surfaces can cause two issues, it can effect accuracy, and the oil can soak into a wood stock. I had a friend bring me a rifle that went from 3/4moa to 2moa and he wanted help figuring out why. I cleaned the bore, checked the crown, and then checked the action screws and no change, so I removed the barreled action to find the bedding area soaked with G-96. Instead of spraying the G-96 onto a rag and then wiping down the metal, he was spraying the G-96 directly onto the rifle. I also ended up cleaning the trigger assembly at the same time, because some G-96 had made it's way into the trigger. I cleaned everything off, and reassembled the rife, and it was once again a 3/4moa rifle.

[58thecat]

Wood stock rifles upon purchase take apart and seal everything as indicated in other posts, reassemble, sight in and go hunting.
If for some reason you want to take the rifle apart do it prior to sighting in and go from there.

[MK2750]

As Chuck mentioned, True Oil is the wrong product for this job (and most others). It is a cross between an oil and a sealer but does neither job well. It hardens enough to give poor penetration so you never achieve that deep hand rubbed look on a stock but doesn't truly seal like needed in a barrel channel or action area.

Here is a decent product from the same company that I have found works very well for sealing. https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refin...er-Filler.aspx

A word of warning about wood stocks. They can and will dry out, crack or rot even when sealed at the surface areas. The trigger group channel and magazine channel are generally exposed wood and impossible to seal properly. These areas should be oiled. I use real Tung oil but Linseed works equally well. I have picked up several wood rifles that were rotted between the trigger group and the magazine or behind the trigger group towards the grip.

Another neglected area is under the butt plate or recoil pad. Several stocks I have seen with a piece chipped off the bottom and an owner that claims they just set it down. With a shotgun I not only oil and/seal this area but I also pour oil in the main bolt channel that attaches the action to the stock. I remove the stock from the action first and give all the internal wood a good oiling annually.

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

Oil on the bedding surfaces can cause two issues, it can effect accuracy, and the oil can soak into a wood stock. I had a friend bring me a rifle that went from 3/4moa to 2moa and he wanted help figuring out why. I cleaned the bore, checked the crown, and then checked the action screws and no change, so I removed the barreled action to find the bedding area soaked with G-96. Instead of spraying the G-96 onto a rag and then wiping down the metal, he was spraying the G-96 directly onto the rifle. I also ended up cleaning the trigger assembly at the same time, because some G-96 had made it's way into the trigger. I cleaned everything off, and reassembled the rife, and it was once again a 3/4moa rifle.

I also have taken numerous rifles apart that had accuracy issues only to find that they had oil in the bed.
in the case of the synthetic stocks the action was basically being prevented from sitting properly and would change POI with every shot.
A few of the wood stocks had been turned punky due to the gun oil attacking the wood.
The best way to seal the wood stock has already been mentioned , bed it with a composite bedding compound.
Cat

[petew]

I must be missing something here. First G96 is a very light, thin oil, it isn't Hypoid 90 gear oil and you don't apply it with a paint brush . I have been wiping all stock surfaces with it inside and out since the 80's as a water repellent and never had a problem with water or swelling or rot. Spray on and wipe off doesn't leave a buildup that can cause issues , it just leaves a microscopic protecting film.

It has been used on all metal surfaces also since the 80's because it doesn't gum up and make triggers sticky and clogged with crap. It is also a great cleaner for gumed up triggers etc, and flushes out old grease etc. Of course a good shake of the part and wipe down is done after the cleaning.

I just don't see how G96 is a problem unless it is used to flood parts and excess is not wiped off , like all oils should be.

As for Truoil, I have refinished many stocks with it and it has never let me down. I also prefer Truoil to finish self bows { a self bow is made from a split or board of natural wood, without fiberglass ,carbon etc,} because of it's great protection to water, snow and bending the wood . Anyone who has made a Hickory bow knows how this wood sucks up moisture from humidity , or rain soakings . Truoil is a fantastic moisture barrier for these bows. If it didn't work , a hickory bow will loose it's tiller the first time it got exposed to high humidity or water.

The only problem I have found in a stock is good old dirt, leaves, needles and stuff that like to build up between the gun and the wood , swelling up and making things change.

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by petew

I must be missing something here. First G96 is a very light, thin oil, it isn't Hypoid 90 gear oil and you don't apply it with a paint brush . I have been wiping all stock surfaces with it inside and out since the 80's as a water repellent and never had a problem with water or swelling or rot. Spray on and wipe off doesn't leave a buildup that can cause issues , it just leaves a microscopic protecting film.

It has been used on all metal surfaces also since the 80's because it doesn't gum up and make triggers sticky and clogged with crap. It is also a great cleaner for gumed up triggers etc, and flushes out old grease etc. Of course a good shake of the part and wipe down is done after the cleaning.

I just don't see how G96 is a problem unless it is used to flood parts and excess is not wiped off , like all oils should be.

As for Truoil, I have refinished many stocks with it and it has never let me down. I also prefer Truoil to finish self bows { a self bow is made from a split or board of natural wood, without fiberglass ,carbon etc,} because of it's great protection to water, snow and bending the wood . Anyone who has made a Hickory bow knows how this wood sucks up moisture from humidity , or rain soakings . Truoil is a fantastic moisture barrier for these bows. If it didn't work , a hickory bow will loose it's tiller the first time it got exposed to high humidity or water.

The only problem I have found in a stock is good old dirt, leaves, needles and stuff that like to build up between the gun and the wood , swelling up and making things change.

If G-96 is sprayed on metal or finished wood surfaces and then wiped off, there is no issue. The problem arises when people spray it directly onto the firearm, and allow it to seep down into the bedding area. It then helps the action to move around on the bedding surface, so the action sits just slightly different after every shot. That is what causes the groups to open up. Bedding surfaces should be clean and dry for optimum accuracy. As far as triggers go, if you spray the G-96 directly into the mechanism, and then expose the rifle to a dusty atmosphere, the trigger can gum up over time.

[Bushleague]

Originally Posted by elkhunter11

Wax was mentioned in post #2

Yep, but it hasn't been mentioned that automobile wax can be used on the metal. Turtle Wax on the metal bits in question and Johnsons furniture wax on the wood, never had corrosion or swelling.

[ROA]

Nothing holds a candle to the old recipe of one part Vaseline to one part lanolin. I treat with that then after I use 15w-40 if needed. My bedding surfaces I leave dry. I would rather risk a bit of rust than have oil between hard slippery bedding compound and metal. I also take great care not to let any cleaning solvents get under the action and into the bedding


For wood its marine spar varnish to seal it up nice.

If I have a gun get wet it sleeps on the register vent for the night. If I were to drop it in the lake I may take it apart

[fps plus]

Remove recoil pad and action from stock . Flecto varathane has a product called natural oil . Apply to all areas of barrel channel , end of butt as well as the checkering . You will see where it is soaking in . Keep applying for 20 -30 minutes . It won't hurt existing finish but but wipe off thoroughly and allow to dry 24 hours and repeat 3-4 times . Then finally finish with a paste wax

[BigJon]

I don't slather a rifle in oil however if some oil on the cured bedding compound is causing your barrelled action to slide around in the bolted on stock, then your bedding job is botched.