What could cause this.

[elklslammer]

I purchased a Savage model SS116 in 300WSM two years ago. Nice gun shoots great. The problem I have is almost after every shot the bolt will not open. The loads i am shooting are 2 grains below max. I talked to the guys at Russels where i purchased the gun and they say pressure. Here is the weird thing. If I put my thumb on the bolt and apply a little pressure downward the bolt opens no problem. I was told this could be a chamber problem. Any ideas guys?

[elkhunter11]

The load may be 2 grains below the maximum load listed in a manual,but it still may be producing excessive chamber pressure in your rifle.I have seen pressure signs at more than two grains below the published maximum load,hence the disclaimer in every loading manual,to start with a starting load and work up while watching for pressure signs.
There may be other problems,but I would reduce the powder charge a couple of grains and see if the problem disappears or is significantly reduced.If the problem persists,you will need to look further,which will likely mean taking the rifle to a reputable gunsmith to have it checked out.

[The Rog Man]

I had a Savage 111 and it had similar problems.
It would shoot factory ammo very reliably most of the time with the occasional jammed bolt but reloads....NO WAY.
I tried the lightest of loads and always got the over pressure signs>
It went to a couple of gunsmiths and it was never figured out.
I gave up and sold the rifle with the info i had about reloads and the occasional bolt lock even with factory ammo.
I didn't want too dump my problems on someone else so i disclosed the info and the price reflected my sentiment about that rifle.
I have owned several Savage rifles and that was the only one i had an issue with even though it shot very accurately.

[fluxcore]

every reload manual differs a bit and not to mention the pressure can realy jump up with different cases eg. rem,win federial just to name a few. I was a few gr below my speer manuals max load and started noticeing the pressure was getting up there. are your primer pockets getting a ridge around the pin strike if so its likely a pressure problem

[gube]

How close to the "lands" are you. If you are close to the lands, it will definitely cause higher pressures. I had the same problem in one of my Savage 204's. I had tried "seating" the bullet out as far as I could go. ( I was still away from the lands.) I started experiencing sticky bolts and the odd blown primer. I reseated my bullets a bit deeper and the problem went away. Excessive "neck tension" in your brass with your seated bullets will also cause excessive pressures.

[PoppaW]

Try cleaning the chamber really really good with a big shotgun brush then see if you get any copper coming out of it. Is your brass scuffed up from a rough chamber. I had 1 gun needed a cleanup on the chamber from tooling marks and now it works flawlessly. 50.00 fix. It wouldn't shoot any load without sticking though even 8-10 grains under max. If you push down on the bolt and then it seems to work OK then I'm guessing rough chamber. Did it do this with factory rounds?

[222rem]

Some times we have to start from the beginning.
Are you full length resizing? Are the cases trimmed to correct length? Did you start with minimum load and work-up to were you are now? How was bolt opening with minimum load? Have you chronograph the load?Is the chamber clean?How far out are you seating bullets?
Safe load in one rifle will not necessarily be safe in other.
Just guessing .

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by The Rog Man

I had a Savage 111 and it had similar problems.
It would shoot factory ammo very reliably most of the time with the occasional jammed bolt but reloads....NO WAY.
I tried the lightest of loads and always got the over pressure signs>
It went to a couple of gunsmiths and it was never figured out.
I gave up and sold the rifle with the info i had about reloads and the occasional bolt lock even with factory ammo.
I didn't want too dump my problems on someone else so i disclosed the info and the price reflected my sentiment about that rifle.
I have owned several Savage rifles and that was the only one i had an issue with even though it shot very accurately.

I had a friend who bought a used Savage 7mm mag. a few years back that had the same problem.
Factory woud do, but handloads no way.
Even a light load of H4831 and a 160 was a no good, major pressure signs , etc.
FL sized, new brass , everything
EVERYBODY, including the savage rep on the phone said "head space problem.
I said " NOPE-WRONG!! I head spaced it myself and it was okay"

I then talked to my father who id a bona fide expert on matters such as this, and he said right away
" Sounds like an oversized bolt head to me, and it does happen every now and then with the Savages"
Well, the shop owner got on the phone the next day and savage wanted him to send the gun back because they were not convinced.
he told them that my father had stated that it would be the bolt head and the guy on the other end said "Well, if Bob said it was a bolt head problem, it likely was - I'll send one up"

Quick bolt head change, and PRESTO!! No more problems!

A bolt head is not expensive, and you may just solve the problem, which sounds like it oif the head space is good.
Cat

[Grizzly Adams]

A little different take here. I just bought the same rifle and I notice there is a little tension washer between the bolt head and body. My thought is that the "false" locking lugs are binding and by pushing forward on the bolt you are decreasing the friction.
Grizz

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by Grizzly Adams

A little different take here. I just bought the same rifle and I notice there is a little tension washer between the bolt head and body. My thought is that the "false" locking lugs are binding and by pushing forward on the bolt you are decreasing the friction.
Grizz

The tension washer is there so that the bolt head can float when it is locked up.
it could be that the bolt handle is touching the stock, and when you push down on the bolt handle , the little added tension breaks the case loose when it binds in the chamber , but without looking at the rifle we cannot make a 100% evaluation, only try and give some helpful advice!
Cat

[elklslammer]

Thanks for all the info guys. I'll give you all the specs from my loads and then I think I will Clean the heck out of the chamber check into the base screws, bolt head size and see where that takes me. My son who shoots this rifle had an opportunity on a nice elk get away. He was shooting at about 100 yards at a bull but the bullet never got to the animal.( Trees and a little buck fever I think ) It ran out on the hill side and stood there. My son couldn't get the bolt open to load another round the bull trotted over the hill and we never saw him again. My son had the tag and I wasn't carrying my gun. After the cursing we had a good chuckle.

Here is my load.

I measure and trim all the brass as needed. ( 2.090") I check them after every firing. I separate every piece of brass into the brand and then I weigh each one to get a consistent group of shells.
I shoot Hornady Interbond 180 grain bullets. I actually weigh these as well and match them up with the brass to get as many identical rounds as possible. I load 65.7 grains of IMR 4831. ( 67.2 is max in the hornady manual.) With CCI 250 magnum primers. The primers are flattening slightly but not enough to make me think this would cause this problem. My C.O.L. is 2.86. I use a digital micrometer for this and a digital scale to weight the powder. I have had it checked to make sure the calibration is right. Even if I open the bolt and tilt the gun forward the bolt will not slide in until i shake the gun a little. I have cleaned the chamber and action to make sure this wasn't part of the problem. I haven't fired a factory round through it.

I'll let you know what happens.

Thanks again
Darryl

[222rem]

Originally Posted by elklslammer

Here is my load.

I measure and trim all the brass as needed. ( 2.090") I check them after every firing. I separate every piece of brass into the brand and then I weigh each one to get a consistent group of shells.
I shoot Hornady Interbond 180 grain bullets. I actually weigh these as well and match them up with the brass to get as many identical rounds as possible. I load 65.7 grains of IMR 4831. ( 67.2 is max in the hornady manual.) With CCI 250 magnum primers. The primers are flattening slightly but not enough to make me think this would cause this problem. My C.O.L. is 2.86. I use a digital micrometer for this and a digital scale to weight the powder. I have had it checked to make sure the calibration is right. Even if I open the bolt and tilt the gun forward the bolt will not slide in until i shake the gun a little. I have cleaned the chamber and action to make sure this wasn't part of the problem. I haven't fired a factory round through it.

I'll let you know what happens.

Thanks again
Darryl

Sounds like you are having fun .I'm out of ideas the only thing I can think of to do is try different dies. You might know someone who got a set.

[roger]

maybe your prob is savage only but when i read it, i thot....
i had probs lifting the bolt after the shot, it turned out the stainless bolt lugs were biting and galling the stainless receiver.
remedy:
add heavy lube to lug faces, keep trigger pulled and push steadily forward on the bolt, so that the bolt clears the recievr face just enough to get lube applied to the surfaces. if you dont push forward it will just shear off and do nothing but make a mess.
maybe it will help 'n maybe it wont
either way good luck