Tips for new elevated hunting blind

[35 whelen]

Roughed out the First wall today will be working on this over the next couple months I've set up hundreds of blinds but if anyone has any tips let me know

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[35 whelen]

Will have three Windows like this insulated on the inside

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[buckbrush]

How high is it going to be? I made a slightly elevated one. Things I'd do would be...

Install windows, I just have horizontal 'shutters' on mine that open up, its nice because the shadow hides you well and I lock the 'shutters' when not in use.
I'd still have those on though because they can be adjusted with a cable to block the sun.

A window, even a small one out the back. The spot I had wanted to put it had zero visibility behind the blind...The place I have it now had a good trail behind it. The door is in the back but I always cringe when I open the door that something is gonna be there.

I bought foam work mat and put that on the floor/ shooting rest. That helps a lot with the noise.

Painting the inside black made it a lot harder for animals to see movement inside.

I bought a couple of those battery powered stick on LED lights for inside, its hand when setting up in the dark.

A couple coat hooks to hang my pack and jacket on keeps stuff off the floor too.

A shelf to set bino's, water bottle and any calls is handy.

Just a couple things I could think of.

[buckbrush]

Here are a couple pictures of mine.

[35 whelen]

This one will be eight feet off the ground I like the idea of a little window in the back because I have the same situation there's a game Trail going to be coming from the back where it's going

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[35 whelen]

Originally Posted by buckbrush

Here are a couple pictures of mine.

Nice blind and paint job my kids making one in Grand Prairie and I'm making one here I got to make mine nicer LOL I also like how you did your door I'll do the same

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[Browning hunter]

I will be following this thread closely, especially wondering about inside measurements. I want to build one that would work for 2 people as there are 7 kids between 6 and 12 in 4 families that are all showing intrest in hunting.

[Trochu]

Originally Posted by 35 whelen

..... but if anyone has any tips let me know.

If you're going to be out there working on this for the next several months, I'd insulate the garage door! Kidding aside, you can get one side adhesive garage door insulation kits for about $120.00 though, think it would make a big difference.

Depends on the person I suppose, but I often fidget while sitting, adhesive and screws for the floor, so it doesn't squeak with movement, would be something I'd want.

[35 whelen]

Originally Posted by Trochu

If you're going to be out there working on this for the next several months, I'd insulate the garage door! Kidding aside, you can get one side adhesive garage door insulation kits for about $120.00 though, think it would make a big difference.



Depends on the person I suppose, but I often fidget while sitting, adhesive and screws for the floor, so it doesn't squeak with movement, would be something I'd want.

She gets warm enough in that garage with that heater I can guarantee but I'm also not going to be going out there in -30 days as I don't plan on bringing this to my land until June or July thanks for the tip Happy New Year

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[35 whelen]

Originally Posted by Browning hunter

I will be following this thread closely, especially wondering about inside measurements. I want to build one that would work for 2 people as there are 7 kids between 6 and 12 in 4 families that are all showing intrest in hunting.

This one is definitely going to be for one person inside dimensions will be 6 by 4 x 6 foot2

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[35 whelen]

By the time it's all said and done and painted and put in place this unit will still cost $700 or more. with a chair and metal brackets cost of wood is unreal some of it is rough cut Lumber , will have 3 plexiglass windows in that s***'s expensive also good luck on your build

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[Jim Blake]

I put some old carpet on the floor for the noise factor. (cheap)

My blind is permanent so I pounded in posts and used rough lumber to make a fence and put a metal walk through gate. That way the cows stay away from it because for sure that's the first place they are going to hang out and rub against LOL.

[35 whelen]

Well there's one wall 50% done

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[buckbrush]

Originally Posted by Browning hunter

I will be following this thread closely, especially wondering about inside measurements. I want to build one that would work for 2 people as there are 7 kids between 6 and 12 in 4 families that are all showing intrest in hunting.

I built mine with the plan of having two full size lawn chairs and a smaller chair in the middle (for a non shooting kid). I built mine 4'X8' I think the size is perfect for us.

Before I started building, to make sure the size would work, I set lawn chairs on a sheet of plywood and marked out the walls.
I also did the same for deciding on the height for the window rest, sitting in the chair, I set up a board across and had my gun on it. then once it was a good height I used that for measurement.

[Jerry D]

Ours we build on 4x8 sheets of plywood for a double stand.

Windows and doors, make them smaller as wood swells.

Window height set based on the chairs you use. We use older swivel office chairs.

I personally find 4x8 too big for a single person stand so keep that in mind if its being used by 1 person all the time.

Make each wall light enough that you can peice the pannels together in the field and screw on bracing to the legs in the feild to stabilize it!

[35 whelen]

Originally Posted by buckbrush

I built mine with the plan of having two full size lawn chairs and a smaller chair in the middle (for a non shooting kid). I built mine 4'X8' I think the size is perfect for us.



Before I started building, to make sure the size would work, I set lawn chairs on a sheet of plywood and marked out the walls.

I also did the same for deciding on the height for the window rest, sitting in the chair, I set up a board across and had my gun on it. then once it was a good height I used that for measurement.

Exactly I used a office chair that I will probably be putting in there.

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[35 whelen]

I'm also probably going to try those angled brackets for the base

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[35 whelen]

Originally Posted by Jerry D

Ours we build on 4x8 sheets of plywood for a double stand.



Windows and doors, make them smaller as wood swells.



Window height set based on the chairs you use. We use older swivel office chairs.



I personally find 4x8 too big for a single person stand so keep that in mind if its being used by 1 person all the time.



Make each wall light enough that you can peice the pannels together in the field and screw on bracing to the legs in the feild to stabilize it!

Nice stand looks very close to what mine will be is that a 4 x 6

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[Jerry D]

Its a 4x8 on the floor,, less the walls on the inside, so interior it is 40" x 88"

The back is right against a thick treeline, close to the road so we didnt put any windows in ours on the back.

Yours is looking really good! We just did a simple flat plywood roof. Id expect these stands to last 20 + years with some care.

Look at the copper 2 deck stain sold at home depot. Green and the zinc version is brown. Slop that into any areas or corners where you think it will rot out, doesnt have to be this year. Once you notice trouble spots.


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[Red Bullets]

Nice blinds / shacks. Don't make them too comfortable or you'll have freemen moving in and taking over.

just my goofy 2 cent comments.. All stuff you probably already know 35 Whelen.

Being that your blind will be 8 feet up be careful what kind of camo you paint on. Hunting in fall when the leaves are down a green camo box is going to stand out. Go to where you are putting it and take a picture of the back ground. Try to match your camo painting to the back ground. The front long shooting window/port could be narrower in height and a person inside would still have a very panoramic view.

In nature there are very few things with straight lines. The edges of walls and openings would be better "camo'ed" if they were not perfectly straight edges. Looking at a blind from the front a person sees a long rectangular opening that looks dark and the walls' straight edges. Very unnatural looking. Animals do get used to structures so long term it might not matter.

Consider the direction you put the blind facing permanently. If you are facing west in the late afternoon you may looking into the setting sun, which can be frustrating. Facing N or NE would avoid the sun the most. Prevailing winds usually are from the W or NW in many parts of Alberta. Wind blowing into the blind front can be a drag.

[35 whelen]

Good advice, windows were pre-built so that's the size they're going to be. the camo pattern is more likely going to be a popular colour white and grey black streaks and I will take some pictures when I get in there this summer.

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[35 whelen]

Front wall almost done little bit of silicone and the final paint will be done at the cabin this year in the summer on the outside.

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[bucksnbears]

Use a spray foam kit, not sheet foam.
Locks things together for a quiter blind.

[35 whelen]

This will work just fine .

[58thecat]

Originally Posted by 35 whelen

This one will be eight feet off the ground I like the idea of a little window in the back because I have the same situation there's a game Trail going to be coming from the back where it's going

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my 2 cents....why not windows on all four sides...you know and I know that the critters don't on the best of days cooperate and do what you want them to do...increase your odd's....plus you might relocate it to an area later on that will require the ability to see out all four sides.....and as for camo make it look cool...blaze orange

[35 whelen]

Where this stand is going it'll never be moved, been hunting here for 13 years I will be putting a small window in the door in the back but it'll be backed up against the bush where there won't be much visibility. straight out front I have 350 yards and probably shoot 50 yards to either side of me

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[Sooner]

Great thread to follow as I want to build a blind as well.


I have friends who inherited a great farm property. Big slough/lake on one side, buffalo fence on one, hayfield and bush on the other sides. 2 farm fields in the middle.

I spent all summer with them doing yard clean etc and watching deer movement. That followed into hunting all of Nov. I am pretty confidant where the deer come to feed and move from field to field.

What are your thoughts on:

The best location for a blind would be tucked into a hill and along a tree line but will have to face pretty much west so we can see where they come out to feed on the one field and any deer coming from the other field. It is the best place to see everything and the shortest distance for shooting. I'm worried facing west into the setting sun is going to be a issue for that last couple hours of the day?


I don't need elevation as this hill spot is a bit higher than the other side of the field. I could cut the grass and scrub down to dirt and put the blind on those back yard deck blocks as it only needs to be a foot of the ground. Is a foot high enough to keep moisture and condensation off the base?

What's the best heat source? I have a big buddy heater for ice fishing. I would assume it is fine with proper ventilation.


Loving this and Dick's blind thread, learning a lot on what to do and what not to do.

[35 whelen]

Originally Posted by Sooner

Great thread to follow as I want to build a blind as well.





I have friends who inherited a great farm property. Big slough/lake on one side, buffalo fence on one, hayfield and bush on the other sides. 2 farm fields in the middle.



I spent all summer with them doing yard clean etc and watching deer movement. That followed into hunting all of Nov. I am pretty confidant where the deer come to feed and move from field to field.



What are your thoughts on:



The best location for a blind would be tucked into a hill and along a tree line but will have to face pretty much west so we can see where they come out to feed on the one field and any deer coming from the other field. It is the best place to see everything and the shortest distance for shooting. I'm worried facing west into the setting sun is going to be a issue for that last couple hours of the day?





I don't need elevation as this hill spot is a bit higher than the other side of the field. I could cut the grass and scrub down to dirt and put the blind on those back yard deck blocks as it only needs to be a foot of the ground. Is a foot high enough to keep moisture and condensation off the base?



What's the best heat source? I have a big buddy heater for ice fishing. I would assume it is fine with proper ventilation.





Loving this and Dick's blind thread, learning a lot on what to do and what not to do.

As far as heat I guess it depends how you build it if it's insulated if you have Windows that can close mine will have all these and I'll be using just a little one of those little buddy heaters the round ones that take a single bottle

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[58thecat]

The only way to know if this blind meets standard is for my arse to sit in it mid to end November then I can give the folks an accurate field evaluation....then we knock the legs off it and plunk it on cold lake...I got a spot

[Stinky Buffalo]

Enjoying this thread. I bought some corner brackets ("elevators") years ago, and just never took the time to make the build.

Now I'm inspired... thinking I might pre-fab a lot of this in the garage with the boys, and then borrow a sled trailer to haul it to the farm that I hunt on and perform final assembly there...

One thought I was having - would it be a good idea to color the the outside of the window shutters black - so that when the blind is occupied (with the shutters open) it doesn't look different to the animals that have gotten accustomed to seeing the shutters closed?