Broad heads

[huntingcrazzy]

Preparing for my first bow hunting season I have only ever shot practice tips any suggestions on broad heads.

[SCHOOCH]

I prefer Montec fixed blades and Grim Reapers for expandables, both have never let me down but it is really all about the shot placement that matters.

[Hydro1]

I got some crimson talons on the pif thread.
They are my favorite Broadhead now. Super sharp out of the box, great durability.
I also have some thunder heads. Been an on and off relationship.
Keep going back to the crimson talons.

[Prdtrgttr]

Our party shoots Wasp Jak hammers. 1 3/4 cut. Tough heads. Super accurate. Fly like darts. They leave huge wound channels, and profuse short blood trails. We have shot everything from Texas hogs to Alberta Moose and Elk with them. Good luck to you and let us know what you decide.

[arrow_baron]

Shuttle Black Ops. I've shot many broadheads and shuttles fly best with my bow.

[jcrayford]

huntingcrazzy, it's all a matter of personal preference (and some educated guesswork).... I would tend to think that it depends on WHAT animal you intend on shooting (ie: for a larger game like Moose, you *may* want something different leading the way as opposed to a head for deer or smaller)....

But then, your individual bow setup starts to determine what you should be shooting as well.... What works for a 70# bow, may not be applicable to a 45# bow....

And then!!!! Do you want to shoot mechanical broadheads? Or fixed blade?

Perhaps more information about your setup could provide more appropriate solutions to your problem.....

For my setup - 70# compound, heavier arrows (475+ gr) and 29.5" draw length, I can get away with choosing mechanicals because I feel that I've got enough power behind the head to (hopefully) compensate for a poorly placed shot or unforeseen circumstance.... Not that I plan on that happening, but Murphy does come into play....

Since I've been shooting in 1995, I've been in love with Rocket Steelheads. Small, tough little buggers that have never let me down. I've added to them in the past couple of years, Grim Reaper Razor Cuts in the same weight range. Both heads shoot identical with my setup. Both heads have brought down the game that I've pulled the trigger on - good shots and mistakes on my end as well.....

My ultimate suggestion? Visit a couple of pro shops and get some other opinions... Perhaps the pro shops would even let you take a head or two for a "test drive". But do it now, instead of the week before the season opens. And buy more than one package of the same head! Use one package as testers / practice heads, the other package save for loading onto your hunting arrows.

Best of luck in your choice!

J.

[Riverbc]

Slick Trick Mags, and Smoke Ramcats, never let me down yet. You just need to get the broadhead throught the lungs.

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

As mentioned there a lot of great heads out there, some work better than others in bloodtrail sence, some will have bloodtrail issues with modern smaller profile heads, but like mentioned also a well placed shot is the key...

I personally shoot the G5 Striker right now...

Neil

[SKSniper]

Muzzy MX-3 for me and my dad. Many moose have fallen to these broadheads over the last few years in our hunting group.
I used a Tru-Fire Switchblade expandable on my elk a few years ago and I couldn't believe the size of the entry hole and the blood from it. He only made it 50 yards with a lung shot. I haven't been able to find any since though.
I am still kind of on the fence about expandables to be honest, they work great when all goes well but I am a believer in reliability so I will probably be sticking to the muzzys this year.

[backyard]

best is to try some out and use what works and flies best for your bow

[huntingcrazzy]

Thanks lots of awesome info here will help a ton my set up is a quest G5 60lbs 28 inch draw and the animal will be with the luck of the draw Moose.

[coyotekiller]

lots of options with NAP broad heads

[SportHuntingHelp]

I shoot Muzzy MX-3 and have no issues.

[petew]

Broadheads are not magic tools. We hear of some making huge holes....??? but realy can a broadhead make larger holes than the width of it's blades?
Can 1 brand with a 1 1/4" blade width make a larger hole than another brand with the same width blades? ??
Well yes and no. It depends on the angle of the impact. Same angle same size hole.On straight on shots the cut can only be the size of the blades, no matter who makes them. As the angle changes the cut becomes longer or wider, no matter who makes it. That 1 1/4" wide head is still the same size regardless of brand or the angle it is shot at..
Take a piece of paper and push a head thru it at 90 deg and at 70 deg. More angle = a wider cut. Straight on the cut will measure the same as the blade, as the angle increases the cut get larger, regardless of brand. Often people think that shot is a straight on , but in reality it is at an angle, accounting for those large entry wounds.

I shoot premium fixed blades now , and that will not change. I used to shoot Wasp Jack Hammers, and never had one fail to be anything but great. They are just not a good option for a traditional bow.
This year I will be using the new Bearpaw German Jagers, fixed 2 blade , Stainless Steel. as well as The Weirwolf, Silver Flame, Asgir 300 Extreme, and a couple other fixed blades.

What is most important in choosing a head is will it break or stay together on a bone, is it straight, does it it sharpen easy.

The compound shooter doesn't have to worry to much about the BH being to big for the bow at most draw weights today., but those of us with traditional bows and lighter draw weights are best to choose a BH that isn't to much for the bow.
A 2 blade will penetrate better than a 3 blade because it has less resistance. A small 2 blade will out penetrate a large 2 blade, so if you are at the minimums choose a smaller 2 blade and put it where it belongs.
Cut to the tip will penetrate deeper than a nail type tip .
Big bones stop bullets, so don't expect an arrow to do better. Stay out of the big bones.

Tune the bow with the heads you will be shooting and all should be good if you do your part behind the string , choose your shots wisely, and let em walk if a good shot is not there.

[NayNay]

Magnus Buzzcuts 125gr

[Hagalaz]

Originally Posted by NayNay

Magnus Buzzcuts 125gr

x2.

I prefer the Magnus Buzzcut 2-blade broadheads myself.

[kujoseto]

125 gr Montec dispatches elk from a 70 lbs compound, but I'm not thrilled with the sharpness out of the box and the steel isn't of quality that can be sharpened well. What I loved about them is how well they fly. If I were to get them again I'd get the carbon steel version as they are sharper. Still might give those a go, but otherwise I'll probably be switching to 125 gr magnus stinger based on what I've read/heard and for the sake of trying 2 blade design.

[ASAT Hunter]

Slick tricks or Exodus by QAD

they fly like field points and cut on contact either will work well!

stay away from mechanicals if you can

[BigRackLover]

2 blade rage hypodermics, 3 blade grim reapers or rockets,

Montec or muzzy for fixed blade.

[kujoseto]

Originally Posted by kujoseto

otherwise I'll probably be switching to ...

Well, several threads and conversations along the way over the last few months and I was converted today to grim reaper 125gr razor tips. I love how the practice tips hit with field tips at 20 yards. I thought I'd never go mechanical but curiosity got the best of me.

[dfrobert]

^^^Good Choice.

[CBintheNorth]

Originally Posted by huntingcrazzy

Thanks lots of awesome info here will help a ton my set up Is a quest G5 60lbs 28 inch draw and the animal will be with the luck of the draw Moose.

One thing to consider with moose- you probably won't get a pass through and therefore a much smaller blood trail.
That is why I recommend a rear deploy (full size entrance) or a fixed blade with a minimum 1.25" cut (if you can get one to fly).
Personally, I'm not a fan of 2 blades either.
I've shot Meat Seekers for the last 5 years and really like them.

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Originally Posted by CBintheNorth

One thing to consider with moose- you probably won't get a pass through and therefore a much smaller blood trail.
That is why I recommend a rear deploy (full size entrance) or a fixed blade with a minimum 1.25" cut (if you can get one to fly).
Personally, I'm not a fan of 2 blades either.
I've shot Meat Seekers for the last 5 years and really like them.

Most can get a 1.25 fixed to fly...[I hope]...The 1.5 fixed are are different story...some manufacturers suggest not shooting them over 40 yds...

This is the 125 GR- G5 Striker- 1.25" wide..My last moose... slight quartering away...

28" Draw and only 66Lbs

He didnt take 10 steps [10 yds] and went down...
Correct on blood trail...sparce...but if you watch em go down...lol



Neil

[Deer_Hunter]

best Broadheads......its a little like asking:

What is the best rifle caliber for deer hunting?

Or

What is the best bullet design for deer hunting?

Lots of people with strong opinions about what is best and why. From my perspective though it always 'depends'... on your shooting style, hunting style, preferences, bow setup, etc...

I shoot G5 Montecs - 100 grain.

I don't use mechanicals because I worry about them failing to deploy. I always want an ethical shot and by staying away from mechanicals I eliminate at least one variable in achieving that end.

No fixed generally don't fly as well as mechanical; however they fly well enough in my hunting applications that they are more than accurate enough. I find the accuracy argument somewhat specious as the difference in accuracy between mechanical and fixed is often far less the the skill of the archer for most, but not all, bow hunters.

G5s do tend not to be the sharpest out of box however they can be sharpened if you are careful and slow about the process. There may be other broadheads that are sharper however lots of people find them plenty sharp enough for deep penetration. I use the stainless variety and they are more difficult to sharpen, I have never used their carbon steel variety but imagine they are easier to place an edge on.

I also like their single piece construction - no welds no joints nothing to break if you get a bad shot and hit bone.

If you choose these get the practice broadheads as well ( same broadhead just unsharpened) and it will making broadhead tuning easy.

Finally larger diameter blades do produce more cutting surface which does translate into more hemorrhaging and a more ethical shot. However there is also more blade to get caught between ribs or wherever if you end up making a less than ideal shot. So for me it is also about finding a balance between enough cutting surface and not providing so much that they don't get through the ribs (again no one wants this and despite out best efforts we all sometime have less than perfect shots - the trick is to reduce the number oof possibilities of this happening). I'm comfortable with the amount of cutting surface fixed provide balanced with the lower probability of getting hung up on something because they are smaller.

On my next bow I may try or explore the 125 grain broad heads but that will be for another year!

[Diamondhitch]

Too many opinions and choices out there to settle on any onehead. Steer clear of the gimics and remember the basics.
1) The sharper and stronger the tip, the less force will be required to penetrate.
2) The fewer blades a head has, the better it will penetrate.
3) The lower the angle, the better a head will penetrate.
4) The narrower a head is, the better it will penetrate.
5) The better the quality of the steel, the longer it will stay sharp and the better it will penetrate.
6) Fixed blades will penetrate better than mechanicals

Finding the right compromise of width, number of blades and deciding between fixed and mechanicals is a personal choice. As a guideline, the smaller the game you are after, the less these factors come into play. For example anything on the market will pass through a Whitetail when shot from a well tuned 60lb bow at 50yds. On a Moose a 2 3/4" diameter mechanical will be a handicap. Exercising common sense becomes more critical when selecting a broadhead for special conditions such as larger game or lower poundage setups.

[gpelker]

I was lucky enough to cull 25 elk about 15 years ago, did the video thing and the butchering on each animal. Tried fixed and mechanicals and the testing proved the fixed out performed the mechanical hands down. Shots ranged from 20-40 yards with most being broadside or quartering away. Only 1 of the 4 mechanicals tested, had consistent pass throughs at that time, was the Grim Reapers. All fixed - Magnus, Muzzys, NAP were all pass throughs. All fixed could be easliy picked up resharpened and reused.
I now shoot Magnus and Silver Flame 2 blade, 125 grain, 1 & 1/8 cutting diameter and have not had either of them let me down over 15 years of hunting.
Takes more to tune your bow for them to shoot the same as field points, but knowing the broadhead is always is going to perform is the key.

The bottom line is shot placement, double lung, and sharp broadheads for a pass through.

[Lefty-Canuck]

I shoot Grim Reaper Razortips...they just work, all I have to say

LC

[Greerzly]

Anyone use the Cabela's Copperhead Broadheads? They are relatively cheap and have good reviews. I bought a pack a couple weeks ago but haven't use them yet...

[kujoseto]

Originally Posted by Deer_Hunter

I shoot G5 Montecs - 100 grain.
...
G5s do tend not to be the sharpest out of box however they can be sharpened if you are careful and slow about the process.
...
I also like their single piece construction - no welds no joints nothing to break if you get a bad shot and hit bone.

I liked the 125gr montec because they did fly so well, but even with taking considerable time with sharpening stones all the way up to 1000 grit, it wasn't as sharp as I would expect with that mirror finish I put on. I attribute that to the porous low quality steel (that DID break on bone). It's like a cheap toy metal when you see the inside composition.
If you stick with montec, I'd recommend the cs. Not sure if they make it in 125 gr though. And wouldn't you rather not have to sharpen it if they make the same bh but in a sharper version?

[L.O.S.T.Arrow]

Originally Posted by kujoseto

I liked the 125gr montec because they did fly so well, but even with taking considerable time with sharpening stones all the way up to 1000 grit, it wasn't as sharp as I would expect with that mirror finish I put on. I attribute that to the porous low quality steel (that DID break on bone). It's like a cheap toy metal when you see the inside composition.
If you stick with montec, I'd recommend the cs. Not sure if they make it in 125 gr though. And wouldn't you rather not have to sharpen it if they make the same bh but in a sharper version?

X2...The CS [Carbon Steel] are sharper and easier to sharpen...and they are only availiable in 100 GR...
Sharpening broadheads are not for everyone and its a skill that has to be mastered...the right sharpeners are needed by most for the right angles of blade..if angles of blade are not bang on some heads are imposssible to sharpen to razor sharp...

One reason I shoot the Strikers...its unreal how dull broadheads can get just from constant removal and re-inserting arrows in quiver...rotate arrows and sharpen or replace blades often...the Striker replaceable blades are sharper than a surgeon's scalpel ...


Neil