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Old 11-17-2010, 10:54 AM
Stinky Coyote Stinky Coyote is offline
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Wink I tried another mechanical....results inside, Grim Reaper.

So already thinking about what to try next with my 'experiment bow' since having good year with it so far. Its a monster xlr8 30" draw set at 70 lb (max is 74) with bisquit/anchor sight/axcel armortech and i really didn't get enough time to do alot of the shooting i wanted to do with it before season to see how far i could push myself with it in practice, basically set pins to 70 in two sight in trips and went hunting. But already hooked on the power. Getting 96 ft/lbs or 338 fps with 378 grains. I used my trusty montecs for the moose and muley this year but since then i started researching out of boredom and thinking about how i want to set up for next year.

I really want to try out the Starrflight Fobs, so they are on the way, and that means i HAVE to shoot a drop away...boooo, lol, so i picked up a limb driver. And i'm going to crank up the poundage to its max 74 as the goal is over 100 ft/lbs ke. In doing so i researched the arrow spine thing a bit and apparently with this aggressive a bow on the carbon express chart my spine should be more like 90lb pull, so i've got the maxima 450 hunter shafts here now too.

And of course in all this research i just had to type into a few googles 'best mechanical' as i'm really thinking about doing some longer range testing this season as i will be shooting/experimenting from this winter right on through to next season and want to ensure awesome flight etc. so in covering my bases i did that research also.

What i didn't expect to find was a mechanical that had such a loyal following and stellar reputation. The Grim Reaper broadheads. I kept reading and reading and my interest was peaked so i picked up a pack of 100's and threw them on the arrows this year not expecting to actually fill any more tags this season.

So i hadn't checked the trail cams in my whitetail spots in awhile, nothing big on them anyhow all year, as been the case last few years, so never in a hurry to check them. And i'd made lots of room in the freezer after loading up some family and friends so i knew i could handle a sausage deer if the occasion arised. And so i grabbed my bow and took it with me just in case a whitetail got silly in front of me while checking trail cams...and as my luck this season goes.....a whitetail got silly in front of me.

Perfect broadside shot, went through meaty part of both front quarters without hitting paddle bones and cleanly severed a rib on entrance and exit sides. Buck did the high back leg kick and took off going about 80 yrds. Went through both front lung lobes at windpipe height, windpipe barely held together at top and bottom. The blood trail was speedwalk looking 20' feet ahead....mind you with that hit the montec would have likely been the same as everything coming out his mouth like walking along with paint brush dipping into full can of paint and flingng around.

Arrow laying on ground a few yards past where the deer was hit and blades closed and one with hair in it....hmmm. Initially thought it failed or at least one blade didn't open but after some closer checking and more research i discovered its easy to tell if they open as each blade leaves a 'smash mark' when they open up into the collar at the back of the blades. This was very obvious, my bow pushing good ke so it was very obvious. Plus i sherlock'd the entire carcass including the internals even though i did the gutless method on him as its just fast/convenient way for me now. The collar behind blades is what sets the angle which they stop, 40 degrees, and determines cut diameter. After inspection i think they now open a few degrees more with slightly reduced cut diam. Otherwise a tiny touch up sharpen and they are like new and ready to go again.

When i disposed of carcass/scraps that evening i took the headlamp/saw and got the internal pics just to satisfy my curiousity. Got two big bags of prime whitetail in the freezer for next sausage party to boot! Oh, and fantastic backstraps for supper.....yum!

So thought i'd pass along my findings. I like what i found so far and will shoot more deer with these. Likely stick to fixed on bigger stuff but as long as everything flies to same point of impact i have no issue with these. The homework says they are the king of the mechanical world so i will shoot a few more to see if my experiences mirror the years and years worth of experiences from other guys/camps that solely rely on and love them....i really had no idea i would find out these were this popular and well thought of.....a mechanical with a good reptution? I was surprised.

Next stop will be taking the bow up to 74 lbs, limb driver, fobs, maxima 450's, anchor sight stays (that thing rocks), and should be able to run 450 grains at around 318 fps with the changes so i'll be itchin for next season, going to try and find a nice whitetail next year so will see what happens. Might be a 125 gr reaper on the arrow when i do.

Hope you enjoy my gear findings.

Still warm and ready to hit the buckets. Entrance side.


Entrance side under hide.



Entrance side on ribs, pushing down with finger on one rib showing gap, completely severed.


Exit side under hide.


Exit side ribs, one completely severed.


Internals, one side lung lobe and wind pipe, they ride inline with each other.


As you can tell by my csi version i was a bit skeptical so for my own peace of mind i did all this checking to ensure they worked as so many seem to say. All good so far.

Last edited by Stinky Coyote; 11-17-2010 at 11:06 AM.
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:49 AM
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Thanks for the post Stinky! Not sure why, but instead of pics I have the red x's! Anyways, if you liked the Reapers, esp. at your speed and set-up, try Wasp Jak Hammers, you won't be disappointed.
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Old 11-17-2010, 12:15 PM
Stinky Coyote Stinky Coyote is offline
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i might move up to the 1 3/4" cut, they have the razor 'tip' version and the razor 'cut' version but most guys liked the original 1 3/8" razor 'tip' version, haven't seen anything that says the 'cut' version penetrates any deeper....

i have tried snypers and steelheads also and was very impressed with the blood trails of those also, i also tried another rocky mountain two blade with cut on contact that was like only 1 1/8" jackknife style and now that i've tried these four i think that the blood trails more or less mimick the cut diam. i have seen better blood trails from the three larger mechs. and similar blood trail to the smaller fixed, montecs, wasp boss bullits, as the smaller diam. mech. i tried so they don't do anything more magical other than have smaller flying diam. which could be big deal depending on what your trying to do for set up of gear and the main reason i wanted to try this one....but if your shooting similar cut diameter to the 1 3/8" of these standard reapers i think you'll see the same blood on the ground......my montecs blood trails have been ok and i can't complain but i have noticed a difference everytime i try a bigger cut mech.

the rage rage sure seems to be tailing off with lots of premature blade deployments (either coming out of quiver etc.) and poor durability reports etc. so these grim reapers we're known to be very tough and after handling them i can see them being every bit as tough as all the aluminum ferrule fixed heads like wasp/muzzy etc. maybe even tough than those types?

i think a key design feature in these with the blades being able to move back a bit while opening is what keeps them from jack knifing on sharp quartering etc. and so i don't think i want to try any other mechanical, i know the spitfire was another high ranked but doing the research the reapers seem to be the only one that make sense to long time fixed guy, i couldn't find much bad press at all....

i may try their 1 3/4" cut on deer with the extra ke/momentum i'll be driving for next season....i really never gave them much of a look as i hate cheesy names and gimmicky looking gear....and they have a cheesy name and a bit of a cheesy look but i'm really digging them now
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Old 11-17-2010, 12:33 PM
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what happens to the FOB as the arrow passes thru the deer/ or animal ? Does it slide off the back ? if so, at quartering angles would this break/ crack the back of a carbon arrow ? Curious to know what i counldn't seem to find reading about them ! What is the weight gain / loss compaired to blasers ? Does the fob fit thru all drop aways ?
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Old 11-17-2010, 01:09 PM
Stinky Coyote Stinky Coyote is offline
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fob weighs about 6.5 gr more than blazers, 24.5 grains vs 18 plus glue

yes it pops off on animal to mark the spot of impact to start blood trailing, can't imagine it would wreck an arrow on quartering hit, couldn't find anything to suggest

70% less wind drift than 4" vanes

no more fletching, or re-fletching which is even worse

apparently quite easy to see in flight

testing i saw compared to blazers suggest they slow the arrow down similar to how much feathers do, so there is some serious steerage going on there and can see why they will steer any fixed blade broadheads

apparently correct fishtailing from bad tune or bad release much faster than anything else, almost too quickly to see, so they start working right pronto

noise was questioned a few times also, from those who had friends stand behind stuff near targets said noise was similar to blazers if not a bit quieter, however its sounds like they are a noisier from the shooters perspective, or, behind the fob....but in front about the same or bit quieter than blazers....and as one tester commented much quieter than slick trick broadheads which is funny to me as i found them noise (like torn fletch) also

another tester (blazer vs fob) said the noise of the bow was most prevalent over any arrow flight noises from either of the two being tested....so a moot point

i'm long time blazer guy too and will be csi on these too

i'm mostly attracted to less wind drift as i want to play longer ranges with practice and closely behind the simplicity of just popping them on and off anytime one feels like....no fletching/refletching is appealing....even though this is my first year fletching my own...i'd rather enjoy these fobs and everything suggests i will

downside would be if they mess with a guys anchor point...ie; fletch in corner of mouth or something like that but otherwise i'm not seeing much downside....i guess arrow wrap would come in handy to find lost arrows if nothing on back end after a pass through? i dunno, just pulling at straws, really didn't see any downside, i never add weight to arse end of arrow anyhow, and think i can handle extra 6.5 grains for the benefits they appear to offer over blazers even?

we shall see soon enough
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Old 11-17-2010, 05:49 PM
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Thanks for the pics and info SC. Congrats
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Old 11-17-2010, 06:42 PM
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Thanks for the post, Stinky C... I have the same but I have yet to tip a deer with them. Nice to see that they'll do the job!

Stinky B.
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Old 11-18-2010, 10:09 AM
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Thanks for the good explaination ! I think that you look at this with a CSI eye for the minute details ! Very cool ! I'm alot slower to embrace new things, but always great to see and hear how others are experimenting and the results ! A big thank you ! keep it up
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:48 AM
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Wow
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Old 12-06-2010, 11:07 AM
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This is my first year bowhunting and I shot my first doe with a 1 3/4" Grim Reaper Razortip head. I had a steep angle to hit the doe, so my arrow entered high in the rib cage and came out low on the other side with a complete passthrough and stuck in the ground. I thought I was lucky because there was snow on the ground for tracking, but I had one problem...no blood trail.

I found the deer hours later by following every trail through the bush that I could but never did find any blood. After I opened the doe up, I could see that the broadhead cause major internal damage through the lungs and heart. However what seemed to have occured was the broadhead dragged the lung out the exit hole with it clogging the hole. I asked others on Archertalk about this and they said the larger diameter broadheads seem to be doing this...drag rather than cut because the blades begin to twist. I am thinking of staying away from the 1 3/4" diameter and move down to something a little smaller.
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Old 12-06-2010, 01:26 PM
Stinky Coyote Stinky Coyote is offline
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wow, crazy story! can you point me to any discussions you saw on this on archery talk? links? i'm not a member so not sure if i can search there or not? glad you got your doe, so are you meaning the blades are turning sideways inside? interesting
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Old 12-06-2010, 06:25 PM
Stinky Coyote Stinky Coyote is offline
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oh and what was your arrow weight and velocity if you don't mind me askin?
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Old 12-07-2010, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinky Coyote View Post
oh and what was your arrow weight and velocity if you don't mind me askin?
My arrows gross around 385gr (including the 100gr tip). I am shooting a Z7 at 67lbs. I am in the 300fps mark
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Old 12-07-2010, 11:10 AM
Stinky Coyote Stinky Coyote is offline
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i'm curious, do you think possible the fletch drug some stuff along? being as its the last part to go through the animal.....by sounds of it broadhead sliced and diced as it should have so my thinking is the tail end of the arrow helped the 'cloth fall into the drain hole' and plug things up.....simple gravity with a shot angle like that and cutting that big of hole one would think that gravity alone would possibly be the worst enemy there, then i put fletches as 2nd place, and least likely the broadhead

its just simple physics
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Old 12-07-2010, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinky Coyote View Post
i'm curious, do you think possible the fletch drug some stuff along? being as its the last part to go through the animal.....by sounds of it broadhead sliced and diced as it should have so my thinking is the tail end of the arrow helped the 'cloth fall into the drain hole' and plug things up.....simple gravity with a shot angle like that and cutting that big of hole one would think that gravity alone would possibly be the worst enemy there, then i put fletches as 2nd place, and least likely the broadhead

its just simple physics
That could very likely be. The broadhead caused a huge exit hole and buried itself into the dirt after the passthrough pretty deep. There did not seem to be any damage to the blades other than being stuck open from dirt/fat/hair jamming them. The exit hole was low, but more off to the side so there was more dragging than gravity because I instantly saw the tissue hanging way out.
I like using expandables, I just want to make sure that this isn't a normal occurence that happens when cutting diameter gets too large.
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Old 12-07-2010, 01:38 PM
Stinky Coyote Stinky Coyote is offline
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i've read way too much crap on the internet forsure and that was first time i'd heard of that, reality though i didn't follow mechanical threads much...long time montec guy...so appears it can happen and something to think about but knowing the kind of damage your doing internally its obvious you just need to search a bit as they won't be too far from where shot with those kinds of holes inside....and i would agree some dragging was involved but i'm betting back from the broadhead...as the broadhead has to open the hole first in order for junk to come in and fill it from behind....

i'm glad we had this little talk this morning and cleared all this confusion up lol

can't wait to throw a 1 3/4" through something next season!

p.s. more on what i'm thinking there must be some sort of effect of an arrow passing through where stuff wants to naturally follow the arrow via its drag or momentum etc. like a vortex or venturi effect maybe....have you got one of those wine venturi's? anyhow you can see where i'm going with it...i really don't think the broadhead is to blame other than cutting too big a hole that insides can more easily get stuck in vs little hole where insides have enough dexterity/stiffness/density etc. that they couldnt/wouldn't fall into the hole and ride on top but fluids could still leak by and more so with more movement etc. (ie; running like a scalded ape because of just being shot....big hole plugs even faster with insides where little hole bleeds even more due to insides sloshing on top giving lots of openings for more blood to get out)

Last edited by Stinky Coyote; 12-07-2010 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 12-07-2010, 02:44 PM
Stinky Coyote Stinky Coyote is offline
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Hey Vinny....the more i think about this the more i think its much more to do with hole size followed by some sort of venturi effect bringing stuff along.

And even thinking about punching holes through animals with firearms from gophers to coyotes and up etc. when you get explosive large exit holes etc. often insides 'drug' to the outside. If holes from bullets small from more solid bullets etc. then just a hole that nothing gets out but fluid (blood).

So i'm even more convinced now that it has nothing to do with any sort of broadhead failure, a weird coincidence of what can happen when you punch big enough hole in them.
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Old 12-07-2010, 02:49 PM
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Well the BH turned everything into the chest in jello so maybe liquifaction played a part too

But really the amound of damage could cause smaller organ tissue to easily protrude out the gaping exit would and allow no blood.
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Old 12-07-2010, 06:22 PM
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I used the Reapers in Kansas. My buddy shoots for Grim Reaper and he swears by them. I shoot G5 strikers and Reapers. My friend got a pass through at 50 yards on a moose. I was skeptical until he showed me the shot his camera held by the guide. They are a sharp and very solid head.
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Old 12-09-2010, 03:23 PM
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Nice report on them!

We use them for bears with fantastic results, lots of blood, and furtherest one went maybe 80yds before he expired.
That being said.... not much of a wild boar broadhead from what I came to find out. Shot one last year at about 15yds and I only got 6-8" at best of penetration (using the razor tip 100gn). He was slightly quartering away, and suppose I just didn't get back far enough to avoid the shield completely. This was using a Vectrix set to 63lbs, arrow weight I couldn't say, but they were Easton Epic 400's I beleive for that one???
On the tougher critters I'll be sticking to Montec's, although the Falcon's seem to shoot real nice aswell, just need to prove themselves when the chance arises!
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Old 02-03-2011, 10:05 AM
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I have another question about these broadhead as I will be buying more. On opening day last year I got rained on and all the grim reapers ended up getting surface rust on them despite the fact that I left them out to dry afterwards. I assume all broadheads must rust after rain like these do.

Anyway the blades stuck on a couple of the broadheads from the surface rust but I managed to work them free. I was afraid to use any kind of oils on these such as WD40, because I didn't know if it would cause damage.

Is there a way to prevent or treat surface rust on broadheads?
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