Devcon Bedding A Rifle

Dean2 · #1 02-02-2022, 07:25 AM

Over the years I have bedded a great many rifles, and I have taught a fair number of people how to do it them selves. Bedding a rifle is probably the simplest accurizing step to do, outside adjusting or replacing the trigger. I have never seen a rifle shoot worse bedded that it did before and I have seen a great many that shoot far better after being bedded.

In the good old days, stocks were often pretty rough in the inside inletting, only the better quality rifles were final bedded by hand and the interior bedding smoothed and nicely finished. Despite that many shot pretty well just as they came from the factory. In today's world we have CNC machines that do the inlet of the stock. The inletting looks much smoother, clean and precise. Despite that, the inletting is often not as effective as the old style was.

In the picture below you can see the inletting on a CZ557. Looks really nice,the tang even has a steel pillar to protect the gun from cracks at the tang, and a steel insert at the recoil lug are to protect that area from splitting. The problem is, when you remove the action screws and then press down on the tang, the action rocks up and down. Properly inlet, the action should be pretty much movement free, if it rocks it means there are high spots and you are going to get very uneven torque on the action itself once it is tightened into the stock.

The fourth picture is the profile of the inlet after 3 liquid ounces of Devcon have been placed in the area of the recoil lug and barrel channel. This is the result after the action is removed from setup, final cleanup has yet to be done. Devcon provides a skin tight fit, you can even see the small machining marks from the action, replicated in the Devcon. If you look closely at the profile of the Devcon and compare it to the other two pictures it is very easy to see just how different it is. The Devcon profile is what a properly bedded rifle should look like.

The action now has a solid front contact area at the front of the action, contact at the tang and no contact in between. This is about as stress free and solid as you can get an action in a stock without gluing it in permanently. The rifle was not shot before bedding it, but in my mind there is zero doubt that the bedded version would show a big improvement over the unbedded, particularly longer term.

1886 · #2 02-02-2022, 08:27 AM

Do you only bed the front action screw? Or do you do the tang as well?

Dean2 · #3 02-02-2022, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1886

Do you only bed the front action screw? Or do you do the tang as well?

In this case the tang has a pillar so not on this one, but most others I do a Devcon pillar on the tang.

Positrac · #4 02-02-2022, 08:38 AM

The finished product looks great Dean. Do you have any pics while the job is being done? I have one rifle it like to do myself but so far I’m a bit leery on trying.

Dean2 · #5 02-02-2022, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Positrac

The finished product looks great Dean. Do you have any pics while the job is being done? I have one rifle it like to do myself but so far I’m a bit leery on trying.

There really isn't much to take pictures of during the process. With this one, I put on a coat of Carnuba wax, let it dry, buffed it shiny, did second coat and buffed it too. I wax EVERYTHING inside and out that is metal, including the screws. In the case of this bedding job, there wasn't even anything that needed to be taped off or platicine puttied. Only other step is to use a Dremel to drill a series of 1/16" diameter holes, between 1/8 and 1/4" deep, where you want the Devcon to sit, for the Devcon to bite onto. My one suggestion, crack the screws loose at 5 hours then tighten. Leave the action in the stock a full 48 hours, it will actually release way better, than it does with a shorter cure time. Keep the gun at least 70F, 90 is even better, while the Devcon cures.

There are a ton of great videos, Brownelles website has a couple of really good ones on bedding a rifle. If you were closer I would offer to help you do the first one. Once you have done one it is pretty easy. Even after doing so many, every time I do an action I haven't done before, it is always so satisfying to see them pop loose cleanly.

Positrac · #6 02-02-2022, 09:43 AM

Thanks Dean. Much appreciated.

Looks like a good project to try on one of these -30 days when I don’t want to leave the house.

Twisted Canuck · #7 02-02-2022, 10:05 AM

An excellent explanation Dean. As always, you have contributed some solid and valuable information to the forum. I'm also going to agree that it will shoot better this way, then if it had been left sloppy and unbedded.

I'm always amazed, with today's CNC equipment, that the factory inletting is so sloppy. That is entirely unnecessary. They could laser scan, do any number of adjustments, to improve those tolerances. I suspect they leave it sloppy for ease of assembly. But when a person is buying a hunting rifle, you want tolerances a bit better then an SKS!

MK2750 · #8 02-02-2022, 10:10 AM

I have had much better luck buying studs to replace the action screws during bedding and doing the entire action. It is truly stress free this way and you simply hold the action securely with surgical rubber tubing or even tape.

triguy · #9 02-02-2022, 10:10 AM

great looking job you did there!

tirebob · #10 02-02-2022, 10:15 AM

Lucky rifle! Looks like some top level treatment there...

As TC pointed out, it is surprising that in todays day and age you would figure that extremely tight tolerances and repeatability in construction should be a given with CNC technology, but it is obvious that isn't necessarily so.

May be a silly question, but do you think it could be explained away simply because wood has so much potential movement from moisture levels, grain direction etc? I know even just moving a flat piece of wood from outside into the basement can cause a heavy concave to develop. I would think it is totally possible for a rifle stock as well, no?

catnthehat · #11 02-02-2022, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tirebob

May be a silly question, but do you think it could be explained away simply because wood has so much potential movement from moisture levels, grain direction etc? I know even just moving a flat piece of wood from outside into the basement can cause a heavy concave to develop. I would think it is totally possible for a rifle stock as well, no?

As far as wood and moisture goes, proper sealing of the bed is mandatory to stop as much movement as possible.
I use a good quality wood sealer when opening up barrel channels or when adjusting a stock for trigger changes.
I have seen many instances where an action has started bearing on wood in places it originally did not.

Cat

elkhunter11 · #12 02-02-2022, 10:40 AM

With most standard recoil lugs, like the 700 footprint, I often put a strip of tape across the bottom of the recoil lug, to make sure that there is zero pressure on the bottom of the recoil lug, after bedding. If for some reason the barreled action doesn't want to come out of the stock, I put it in the deep freeze for a couple of hours and as the metal contracts, it comes free from the bedding compound, which doesn't contract as much. And while many people don't, I skim bed stocks with the aluminum bedding blocks, as they seem to be more stable during temperature changes, after being bedded.

catnthehat · #13 02-02-2022, 10:49 AM

Excellent work Dean!
Probably the most extreme example of a heavily modified wood stock I have ever seen is on my .223 irons match rifle.
This rifle was built by accuracy master Jim Duggan , he did the stock and the accurizing of the Omark/ Sportco 44 action.
Cat
The pillars and bedding blocks are massive!

Dean2 · #14 02-02-2022, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by catnthehat

As far as wood and moisture goes, proper sealing of the bed is mandatory to stop as much movement as possible.
I use a good quality wood sealer when opening up barrel channels or when adjusting a stock for trigger changes.
I have seen many instances where an action has started bearing on wood in places it originally did not.

Cat

Agreed on all points. That is actually the issue hypermoa is having with the alpine that wouldn't group. There is wood rubbing in a whole bunch of places it shouldn't. Needs to be bedded, barrel channel relieved and then all the parts well sealed against moisture.

eschafer · #15 02-02-2022, 05:03 PM

Just working up the courage to bed my 338 WM Browning A-Bolt I.... It shoots like a toilette... I just can't wrap my head around the rear tang area as the rear of the trigger is all part of the rear action mount.... Not sure how yet to handle it... The recoil lug is presently bedded minimally from factory... Very little bedding there... A video of a Browning bedded just doesn't yet exist.... I've no experience bedding a rifle as yet...

kujoseto · #16 02-02-2022, 05:21 PM

Looks great Dean.
I have been using MarineTex since using devcon only once and prefer the MarineTex
Any opinion between the two?

obsessed1 · #17 02-02-2022, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eschafer

Just working up the courage to bed my 338 WM Browning A-Bolt I.... It shoots like a toilette... I just can't wrap my head around the rear tang area as the rear of the trigger is all part of the rear action mount.... Not sure how yet to handle it... The recoil lug is presently bedded minimally from factory... Very little bedding there... A video of a Browning bedded just doesn't yet exist.... I've no experience bedding a rifle as yet...

Personally I would bed the front of the action and just pillar the rear action bolt. You can make a devcon pillar for the rear action bolt...there's just not much room for bedding the tang. It's been a while but IIRC there is a bit of stock between the mag well and trigger group that can be bedded as well

Dean2 · #18 02-02-2022, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kujoseto

Looks great Dean.
I have been using MarineTex since using devcon only once and prefer the MarineTex
Any opinion between the two?

Have used both and many others as well. Devcon is definitely harder to get the hang of using than many and it is more expensive. Once you do figure it out however I find the outcome significantly better. Devicon shrinks less while curing, has a slightly lower hot and cold expansion contraction delta, is harder and can be machined as well as tapped/threaded and is not affected by oils and gun cleaners to the same extent. Marinetex is really very good, probably my second choice after Devcon.

fps plus · #19 02-02-2022, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eschafer

Just working up the courage to bed my 338 WM Browning A-Bolt I.... It shoots like a toilette... I just can't wrap my head around the rear tang area as the rear of the trigger is all part of the rear action mount.... Not sure how yet to handle it... The recoil lug is presently bedded minimally from factory... Very little bedding there... A video of a Browning bedded just doesn't yet exist.... I've no experience bedding a rifle as yet...

If this is your first go I would suggest you only do the front recoil lug area . I have fixed guns where the rear trigger safety has been damaged by improper bedding . It can be done but requires some finesse.

270person · #20 02-02-2022, 08:29 PM

Very nice Dean and good on you for encouraging others to give it a go. You just drilled the 1/8 holes in this CZ stock vs the dremel scrape on my 700?

Couldn't be happier with the job you did on my Whelen. Outshoots other pricier rifles I own by a Lot.

Dean2 · #21 02-02-2022, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fps plus

If this is your first go I would suggest you only do the front recoil lug area . I have fixed guns where the rear trigger safety has been damaged by improper bedding . It can be done but requires some finesse.

I agree completely. Even when y get good at it bedding the front and rear separately solves a whole bunch off issues.

270. Thanks, but you actually did the bedding. All I did was help you learn how. The results are what you made them.

HyperMOA · #22 02-02-2022, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean2

Agreed on all points. That is actually the issue hypermoa is having with the alpine that wouldn't group. There is wood rubbing in a whole bunch of places it shouldn't. Needs to be bedded, barrel channel relieved and then all the parts well sealed against moisture.

I got my Devcon this week. I’m hoping to try bedding an axis this weekend or next. Does it let off strong odours?

270person · #23 02-02-2022, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean2

I agree completely. Even when y get good at it bedding the front and rear separately solves a whole bunch off issues.

270. Thanks, but you actually did the bedding. All I did was help you learn how. The results are what you made them.

The results are I'm still too chicken to try it myself.

Lefty Bryan · #24 02-03-2022, 10:37 AM

I had a sloppy foreend on a Marlin 1895 and Devcon bedded it - worked out great.

My next project, which I am looking for some advice on is 2x Weatherby Mark V lightweights. One in 257 WBY and one in 300 WBY.

Previous owner took a crack at bedding the recoil lug on the 257 with what looks like epoxy. Seems like a tight fit - so I am not too keen on redoing it.

The 300WBY has no bedding so will start with that to try and tighten things up.

My question relates to the pressure point that weatherby puts on the front of these stocks - ie the barrel is not free floated. I am guessing that bedding will change the amount of pressure applied to the barrel. Is it best to completely remove this pressure point? Mixed reviews from guys online doing this and I am not too clear on how to redo / customize a pressure point if it is required.

Anyone have thoughts / experience with these lightweight fluted barrels with / without pressure points?

Thanks.

Dean2 · #25 02-03-2022, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lefty Bryan

I had a sloppy foreend on a Marlin 1895 and Devcon bedded it - worked out great.

My next project, which I am looking for some advice on is 2x Weatherby Mark V lightweights. One in 257 WBY and one in 300 WBY.

Previous owner took a crack at bedding the recoil lug on the 257 with what looks like epoxy. Seems like a tight fit - so I am not too keen on redoing it.

The 300WBY has no bedding so will start with that to try and tighten things up.

My question relates to the pressure point that weatherby puts on the front of these stocks - ie the barrel is not free floated. I am guessing that bedding will change the amount of pressure applied to the barrel. Is it best to completely remove this pressure point? Mixed reviews from guys online doing this and I am not too clear on how to redo / customize a pressure point if it is required.

Anyone have thoughts / experience with these lightweight fluted barrels with / without pressure points?

Thanks.

My 257 Ultra light MKV is bedded and it also has the pressure point in the barrel channel. It shoots much better with the pressure point, as do most really light weight barrels. I tried it with and with out, the results weren't even close.

P.S. I missed your post Hyper, sorry, but SNS2 is completely correct. There is no discernible odour to Devcon.

sns2 · #26 02-03-2022, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HyperMOA

I got my Devcon this week. I’m hoping to try bedding an axis this weekend or next. Does it let off strong odours?

Not at all

elkhunter11 · #27 02-03-2022, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dean2

My 257 Ultra light MKV is bedded and it also has the pressure point in the barrel channel. It shoots much better with the pressure point, as do most really light weight barrels. I tried it with and with out, the results weren't even close.

P.S. I missed your post Hyper, sorry, but SNS2 is completely correct. There is no discernible odour to Devcon.

I bedded a Vanguard MOA and removed the pressure point, accuracy got even worse, so I added a pressure point, and the accuracy was better than ever. It's fairly easy to ad a pressure point.

marky_mark · #28 02-03-2022, 11:41 AM

Weatherbys need a pressure point

C&C Outdoors · #29 02-03-2022, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marky_mark

Weatherbys need a pressure point

Yes, and more so with the lighter #2 contour barrels.

elkhunter11 · #30 02-03-2022, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marky_mark

Weatherbys need a pressure point

Very often they do with the light contour barrels, but I had a Mark V in 257wby rebarreled with a #4 barrel, and t was an honest 1/2moa rifle when free floated.