Took a week off. Ha ha this is what I got to do

flygirrl · #1 05-22-2014, 07:03 PM

I'm trying to figure what is more sore, my knees, my back, my hand or my wrist. Took me 6 full days but got it almost done.

Ken07AOVette · #2 05-22-2014, 07:08 PM

very nice!

drake · #3 05-22-2014, 07:10 PM

To code? Posts look a little suspect....

flygirrl · #4 05-22-2014, 07:11 PM

Not sure I'm liking where I tied in the railing going down the stairs to the 4x4, will look at it tomorrow and decide on what to do to make it look more pleasing.

flygirrl · #5 05-22-2014, 07:13 PM

Well of course. I jumped on it to test it

CanuckShooter · #6 05-22-2014, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flygirrl

Not sure I'm liking where I tied in the railing going down the stairs to the 4x4, will look at it tomorrow and decide on what to do to make it look more pleasing.

I agree, the rest of the job looks pretty neat and tidy. You might consider a few more braces under the deck if your going to have a big party on there.

flygirrl · #7 05-22-2014, 07:17 PM

Yes was looking at that. As I said almost done .. Big party of 2 and the lab. Lol

winmag · #8 05-22-2014, 08:04 PM

Mostly by yourself ?... well done .. it will take another 6 days in the hot tub to uncripple

mudbug · #9 05-22-2014, 08:26 PM

I think you did a great job

elkdump · #10 05-22-2014, 08:32 PM

Very Nice,, now all you have to add is some barbed wire, gun turrets, and spot lights and you will have your Very Own GULAG ,

flygirrl · #11 05-22-2014, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmag

Mostly by yourself ?... well done .. it will take another 6 days in the hot tub to uncripple

Yup, hubby held a couple of boards that I couldn't hold up and screw. But 99.9% done by me. Will take more than six days.

great white whaler · #12 05-22-2014, 09:16 PM

good job ..but you need to brace the main posts,,side to side micheal jackson moves could cause it to topal

bison · #13 05-23-2014, 12:04 AM

Nice job,..looks a bit crowded though, is that in Beijing or is that here in Canada?

HunterDave · #14 05-23-2014, 12:53 AM

Flygirrl, please don't take this the wrong way, I think that the deck looks great and I know that you put a lot of work into it but.....

The only thing that is holding up your deck are the screws going through the 2" x 6" joists around the edge into the 4" x 4" posts. Doing a deck that way you should have the joists sitting on top of the posts. Also, you need support in the middle of the deck, you can't have a whole deck of 10' or 12' lengths of 2" x 6" not supported. You need support in the middle of the deck. There are other things that I noticed but those are the two most dangerous that jumped right out at me. Bolted to the house?

Please do not throw a party on the deck until you have someone with experience in building decks (building codes) have a look at it. Seriously, we're talking collapse here.

PM 220swifty to confirm my concerns, I know that he's a licensed professional.

walking buffalo · #15 05-23-2014, 02:08 AM

Hi Flygirrl,

From the first picture, I thought you were making a double meatpole butchering deck.

I know you won't take this the wrong way. And if I'm wrong, I know to take cover if meet in camp again.

The posts need a proper footing. This would be a challenge to go back and fix now.

The Rim joist appears to be of two pieces. If so, did you block the joint from the back?

Instead of the cross braces between posts ( they put low outward pressure on the outside posts, could cause the blocks to move) , use Knee braces 1/3 to 1/2 of the post to deck height (also called Y braces).

As you did not build on top of the posts, I would now use 1/2" lag bolts through the rim and deck joists and posts.

On the deck, it appears that you skipped using a double screw on each deck board and joist. These gaps will allow enough warping to be a problem. Double screw at ever joist.

If you provide a few more pics of the stair rail to deck transition we might be able to offer some suggestions. These retrofits are a pain in the ...

I think I am going to show this to a couple of the guys working for me. I wish they could do this well unsupervised in six days.

flygirrl · #16 05-23-2014, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walking buffalo

Hi Flygirrl,

From the first picture, I thought you were making a double meatpole butchering deck.

I know you won't take this the wrong way. And if I'm wrong, I know to take cover if meet in camp again.

The posts need a proper footing. This would be a challenge to go back and fix now.

The Rim joist appears to be of two pieces. If so, did you block the joint from the back?

Instead of the cross braces between posts ( they put low outward pressure on the outside posts, could cause the blocks to move) , use Knee braces 1/3 to 1/2 of the post to deck height (also called Y braces).

As you did not build on top of the posts, I would now use 1/2" lag bolts through the rim and deck joists and posts.

On the deck, it appears that you skipped using a double screw on each deck board and joist. These gaps will allow enough warping to be a problem. Double screw at ever joist.

If you provide a few more pics of the stair rail to deck transition we might be able to offer some suggestions. These retrofits are a pain in the ...

I think I am going to show this to a couple of the guys working for me. I wish they could do this well unsupervised in six days.

Yes I need to do more screwing on the deck, wrist got to sore, lol. Drill is way to heavy for this work, yes I'm going use lag bolts .. Good idea though on the knee braces, will do . And no insult taken. I'm not a carpenter and have never built a deck up in the air like this. Have built a few on the ground, this is a whole different ball game.

flygirrl · #17 05-23-2014, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HunterDave

Flygirrl, please don't take this the wrong way, I think that the deck looks great and I know that you put a lot of work into it but.....

The only thing that is holding up your deck are the screws going through the 2" x 6" joists around the edge into the 4" x 4" posts. Doing a deck that way you should have the joists sitting on top of the posts. Also, you need support in the middle of the deck, you can't have a whole deck of 10' or 12' lengths of 2" x 6" not supported. You need support in the middle of the deck. There are other things that I noticed but those are the two most dangerous that jumped right out at me. Bolted to the house?

Please do not throw a party on the deck until you have someone with experience in building decks (building codes) have a look at it. Seriously, we're talking collapse here.

PM 220swifty to confirm my concerns, I know that he's a licensed professional.

Thanks hunterdave, was thinking of adding a header underneath for more support, again, I'm not taking anything the wrong way, good advice is never wrong. Don't worry no parties here lol

coreya3212 · #18 05-23-2014, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flygirrl

Yes I need to do more screwing on the deck

ohhh someone is going to wish the edit button would last forever...

flygirrl · #19 05-23-2014, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coreya3212

ohhh someone is going to wish the edit button would last forever...

No edit button on for me, that's halarious, I just reread that... Humm interesting

Rumtan · #20 05-23-2014, 08:01 AM

At least your neighbours will get a good view.

javlin101 · #21 05-23-2014, 08:43 AM

Lots of hard work invested, good for you. I highly recommend you have some one with experience building elevated decks come over and go through it with you. As said before until some issues are dealt with you have a potential accident waiting to happen.

walking buffalo · #22 05-23-2014, 11:39 AM

You used a screwdriver?!!!!

Now THAT'S Impressive!

flygirrl · #23 05-23-2014, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walking buffalo

You used a screwdriver?!!!!

Now THAT'S Impressive!

Even I'm not that brave.........

The Fisherman Guy · #24 05-23-2014, 02:14 PM

Looks awesome Flygirrl!! Great job!

Batwoman · #25 05-23-2014, 04:07 PM

I am not a carpenter, have none of that experience BUT I am super impressed!!!! OK the guys who offered good advice - always nice to know we care about each other. Now that you have experience with a deck in the air tell Hubby to watch out he may end up becoming your helper on weekend jobs.

Congrats!!! from Keg and Me.

Kim473 · #26 05-24-2014, 08:40 AM

Great job. You want to help me rebuild mine next year?

flygirrl · #27 05-24-2014, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by javlin101

Lots of hard work invested, good for you. I highly recommend you have some one with experience building elevated decks come over and go through it with you. As said before until some issues are dealt with you have a potential accident waiting to happen.

Thanks to 220swifty have had some advice on some minor tweeks. Will be doing it today.
And no batwoman, no hubby for helper. He is strictly union. No pay no workie but boy can he ever say " if it was me ". Lol

flygirrl · #28 05-24-2014, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walking buffalo

Hi Flygirrl,

From the first picture, I thought you were making a double meatpole butchering deck.

I know you won't take this the wrong way. And if I'm wrong, I know to take cover if meet in camp again.

The posts need a proper footing. This would be a challenge to go back and fix now.

The Rim joist appears to be of two pieces. If so, did you block the joint from the back?

Instead of the cross braces between posts ( they put low outward pressure on the outside posts, could cause the blocks to move) , use Knee braces 1/3 to 1/2 of the post to deck height (also called Y braces).

As you did not build on top of the posts, I would now use 1/2" lag bolts through the rim and deck joists and posts.

On the deck, it appears that you skipped using a double screw on each deck board and joist. These gaps will allow enough warping to be a problem. Double screw at ever joist.

If you provide a few more pics of the stair rail to deck transition we might be able to offer some suggestions. These retrofits are a pain in the ...

I think I am going to show this to a couple of the guys working for me. I wish they could do this well unsupervised in six days.

Took your advice and used y braces instead. Bought some lag bolts will install. The post footing, ya, not sure what to do there, would be a big challange for sure. Humm. Good advice though. Oh, cut the post off so it don't look so much like a meat hanger lol and installed solar powered post caps.

saltwater cowboy · #29 05-24-2014, 09:38 AM

Hey Flygirl,
As stated by most here that is a lot better than most owner built decks I have seen over the years.
Also as stated by a few guys who do this professionally PLEASE don't take insult but you will be having some major issues in the future. Don't know where you live but pretty sure there wasn't a permit drawn. Not a huge issue until you decide to sell your house,then huge as it will not pass.
Another future one is your deck will not be level in a year or two. Those concrete blocks are not designed to sit on grass and top soil, you are suppose to dig down to undisturbed clay,backfill with crush,tamp and even then they will still move. I will not build a deck for a customer here in Edmonton on those,rather lose the job than have my name attached to a deck that has moved. There may be enough height under there that you can remedy this with the steel screw piles sold at Rona etc.
Not here to nit pick your efforts. In fact I would hire you to help me as you have great potential !!!
Salty

CaberTosser · #30 05-24-2014, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flygirrl

Thanks to 220swifty have had some advice on some minor tweeks. Will be doing it today.
And no batwoman, no hubby for helper. He is strictly union. No pay no workie but boy can he ever say " if it was me ". Lol

Remind him that he's in a marital or common-law union with you, so it is a union gig, and having a nice deck is a form of pay. So far I'm not feeling the love for the non-participation stance. I'll echo the need to anchor those posts. One could get some sonotubes, brace the corner of the deck being fixed with other temporary support, and then set concrete footings one at a time under each corner (to allow for working room with the bracing system). I would set the posts in the galvanized 4" x 4" post saddles that have a heavy piece of rebar welded to them which are set down into the concrete. As for depth to set these footings I can't recall the code minimum, but I tend heavily towards overkill so I'd personally go 36" or better with my fence 6 x 6's). I'm sure someone in the know will chime in on a minimum depth.

Nice work otherwise though, I do want to reinforce the good done with it. We certainly all have a learning curve and Rome wasn't built in a day.