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01-17-2020, 07:48 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: At the end of the Thirsty Beaver Trail, Pinsky lake, Alberta.
Posts: 24,623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ram crazy
Buy a Honda and done!
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yup.....sorry for the quad issue....Honda.
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Be careful when you follow the masses, sometimes the "M" is silent...
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01-17-2020, 08:00 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Near Edmonton
Posts: 15,061
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If you put fuel directly into the spark plug holes, will it run. Can you squirt fuel directly into the intake? If it runs with either form of added fuel my bet would be fuel pump. Your backfire has to be either timing, valves or fuel. You reset the timing, reset the valve lash so fuel is the only thing left.
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01-17-2020, 08:45 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 58thecat
yup.....sorry for the quad issue....Honda.
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Your quad may run, but your back will give out from riding a barrel.
Stick to your Yamaha or mentioned Polaris.
The kill switch stops your machine from cranking over? I have had problems with the actual switch and also just where the wires go into it or zip ties to the bar, may break there and have. Usually the kill switch and the bar just sops ignition not the cranking? But then you would not have spark at all. and your noise you mention if it was a short would also affect spark.
Compression test will help tell a story for multiple things happening in the engine.
Sounds like electrical is good and components . need to further go down the road of mechanical.
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01-17-2020, 08:53 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: West Central Alberta
Posts: 6,670
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I too am one of those former Yamaha quad owners whose quad (Big Bear) would be running fine one day and next day would not start. Put in a new plug and away it would go.
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01-17-2020, 08:55 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Camrose
Posts: 45,164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kritz
Your quad may run, but your back will give out from riding a barrel.
Stick to your Yamaha or mentioned Polaris.
The kill switch stops your machine from cranking over? I have had problems with the actual switch and also just where the wires go into it or zip ties to the bar, may break there and have. Usually the kill switch and the bar just sops ignition not the cranking? But then you would not have spark at all. and your noise you mention if it was a short would also affect spark.
Compression test will help tell a story for multiple things happening in the engine.
Sounds like electrical is good and components . need to further go down the road of mechanical.
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Have you ridden a Honda with independent suspension? They ave changed a lot since the old solid rear ale machines.
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Only accurate guns are interesting.
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01-17-2020, 09:59 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 3,428
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Sounds electrical
That SNAP-SNAP was likely electrical, something is shorted out. Could be a bad cell in the new battery, could be worn insulation on a wire, could be inside a power relay.
Since you have already checked the ECM and the coil, try the battery next. If it isn't the battery, start metering out the wiring harnesses, focus on the main power cables.
Another thought- did you add any other accessories recently? If so, check the mounting and any strapping/lashing points for inadvertent wiring damage.
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“One of the sad signs of our times is that we have demonized those who produce, subsidized those who refuse to produce, and canonized those who complain.” - Thomas Sowell
“We seem to be getting closer and closer to a situation where nobody is responsible for what they did but we are all responsible for what somebody else did.”- Thomas Sowell
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01-17-2020, 10:01 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkhunter11
Buying a new machine usually works no matter what you buy , but long term I would rather have a Yamaha than a Polaris reliability wise.
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I've always had a Polaris to uses for hunting, then went to a CanAm then went to a Yamaha (an older one, mind you) and most problems I ever had was with the Yamaha. Not saying they're crap, just my personal experience, much like yours is all positive.
But like the OP, I'm a little stubborn as well and just threw the Yammie into the corner for now and will get back at it in due time. If man built it, I'm sure its fixable...….or I'll do what I do with my putter when it acts up, stand it in the corner with a hacksaw beside it...…..LOL
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01-17-2020, 10:03 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urban rednek
That SNAP-SNAP was likely electrical, something is shorted out. Could be a bad cell in the new battery, could be worn insulation on a wire, could be inside a power relay.
Since you have already checked the ECM and the coil, try the battery next. If it isn't the battery, start metering out the wiring harnesses, focus on the main power cables.
Another thought- did you add any other accessories recently? If so, check the mounting and any strapping/lashing points for inadvertent wiring damage.
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I've heard my winch relay make some clicking noises in the past, when not using the winch but just starting the quad......
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01-17-2020, 11:09 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: At the end of the Thirsty Beaver Trail, Pinsky lake, Alberta.
Posts: 24,623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kritz
Your quad may run, but your back will give out from riding a barrel.
Stick to your Yamaha or mentioned Polaris.
The kill switch stops your machine from cranking over? I have had problems with the actual switch and also just where the wires go into it or zip ties to the bar, may break there and have. Usually the kill switch and the bar just sops ignition not the cranking? But then you would not have spark at all. and your noise you mention if it was a short would also affect spark.
Compression test will help tell a story for multiple things happening in the engine.
Sounds like electrical is good and components . need to further go down the road of mechanical.
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got 15,000 km's on her....back is fine...ride almost everyday on it....no problems to date...she is a 2004...
to the OP sounds like your missing something simple? Hate those types of snags...maybe another set of eyes on her.
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Be careful when you follow the masses, sometimes the "M" is silent...
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01-17-2020, 03:07 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Alberta
Posts: 24,071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick0danger
If it's a 2 stroke, first thing I try is new plugs!!! Fixed the reverse on a sled I bought!
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Griz's are 4 stroke.
My 2002 Griz has never missed a beat.
I wouldn't take a free Polaris
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Only dead fish go with the flow. The rest use their brains in life.
Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck
I wasn't thinking far enough ahead for an outcome, I was ranting. By definition, a rant doesn't imply much forethought.....
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01-17-2020, 03:08 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,223
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01-18-2020, 04:34 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 20
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I'm curious about this, any luck today?
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01-18-2020, 05:55 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurt505
Did you look into the stator? I had to replace the stator in one of my grizz 700’s.
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Yup had to do the same. It’s an issue with that machine..
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01-18-2020, 08:41 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: DeWinton
Posts: 92
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Side Tracked
Quote:
Originally Posted by olsy
I'm curious about this, any luck today?
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No sorry, got a little side tracked as I had to go fill my cow elk tag yesterday.
So now that's she is hanging in the cooler I have a few days to maybe attack it again.
If "tullfan" is reading this, I will PM you as to your availability, at your convenience of course.
Once I get the solution I will post the results for sure.
I also have a little mod to put out there for anyone with the 2008 version of the 700. - More later.
Thanks
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02-04-2020, 03:16 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: DeWinton
Posts: 92
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Problem Isolated and Solved
Well as promised I am reporting the outcome of the problem I was having with my 2008 Grizzly 700.
With some generous help from another member of this great forum, we were able to get down to the root cause of the engine that would not start. For me this one had me looking in all the wrong directions, although there "May Have Been" more than one issue present, but I will never know.
As I had mentioned, I ended up installing a new Stator and associated Crankshaft Position Sensor, this may or may not have been necessary, (as it turns out) but looking at it, it was nearly cooked anyway so future problem averted.
Now I do not understand how it happened but it appears that perhaps some carbon deposit/s came loose from around one of the intake valves, and ended up right on the seat, then when the valve tried to close it bent it enough that it would not seal. This must have happened right when I turned it off for the last time the evening before. This became immediately evident when we did a compression test and had "0" pressure - AHAH!
Got a mini-wifi camera out and managed to snake it in though the throttle body and shining a light in through the exhaust port and voila "You Can See the Light".
So we popped the head off, and a set of new valves, gaskets and a couple hours put her all back together and she started up on first crank. Hallelujah!
There you have it, didn't even have to use a paper clip or spray the switches, and it was a whole lot cheaper than a new machine, lol - Running now like a new machine.
I can't say enough good things about the assistance and knowledge brought to the situation by forum member Tullfan, much appreciated there buddy.
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02-04-2020, 04:11 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: The best place on earth.
Posts: 1,653
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Great news, glad it’s back up and running. Doesn’t sound too costly either.
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Life’s a garden, Dig it! - Joe Dirt
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02-04-2020, 06:08 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Calgary, Ab
Posts: 981
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You’re welcome. It was a pleasure to meet you. See you again.
Tullfan.
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02-05-2020, 02:47 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: DeWinton
Posts: 92
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Grizzly Stator Cooling Mod
As I mentioned earlier I did a modification to the engine to provide additional cooling to the stator, as this is a problem with the 2007 & 2008 Grizzly 700's.
I also subscribe to the "Grizzly Forum" and it is may be a better venue for this information. So I did post it there. Has lots of pictures and the procedure to do the mod if you are lucky enough to have the right case casting, (as I did). It only cost me $27 to do this for the parts.
I hope it is OK to post a link to the information, it was easier to post pictures there than here.
https://www.grizzlycentral.com/threa.../#post-1112225
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02-05-2020, 02:53 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: DeWinton
Posts: 92
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Costs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneck 7
Great news, glad it’s back up and running. Doesn’t sound too costly either.
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Well including the new Stator and Crankshaft Indicator, (which I may not have required after all), and the oil line modification addition it came in at about $475. So I guess that's not too bad.
Would have been more if not for the generous help from Tullfan.
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02-05-2020, 07:24 AM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: A bit North o' Center...
Posts: 11,164
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That's great to hear!
Stories like this, members helping members, make this forum awesome.
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