Rusty Bore

[Nathan F.]

Hey all!
So a little while ago I acquired an old Czech Mauser at a gun show. It's a really nice rifle except the bore is pretty rusty and gross. I ran countless patches through it with Hoppes 9 which helped a bit but it's still not perfectly clean. What do you guys recommend for getting rust out of the bore? Would CLR work? Or would that damage the gun? Thanks!
-Nathan

[gitrdun]

I have pondered the use of CLR myself, but never tried it. I may one day if I have a rifle that could be considered sacrificial. Save that and providing that it is not deeply pitted, my choice would be to run a patch of J-B Bore Bright, 5 strokes each direction, no more, then clean with whatever bore cleaner you use such as Hoppe's #9 and check again.

[catnthehat]

Spray some foaming engiine clleaner in there like Amzoil or Mercury Quicksilver, let it sit for a bit, then go at it with a nylon or bronze brush.
That wiill get it out!
Cat

[Nathan F.]

Thanks guys,

I'll probably pick up some amzoil or mercury quicksilver at Canadian Tire on my way home today. Where can you get the J-B Bore Bright?

[gitrdun]

That can only be found in gun stores. Try Cat's solution first, easier to procure and he's got more experience than I.

[CaberTosser]

There's a product called Evapo-Rust that eats rust while leaving the non-oxidized metal alone, but I will warn that it also dissolves bluing. With precautions such as tape and plastic to protect the surfaces you want left alone and a good helping of caution it will do the trick for you. It's in the auto body section at Canadian Tire, among other places. Bonus is very low fumes and the solution can be reused until it's been chemically exhausted.

Personally I would silicone plug the muzzle, wrap and tape the outside of the rifle for finish protection, place it in a padded vice muzzle down and fill the barrel with the solution and let it sit. The plug I'm referring to is a small silicone tapered plug made for gunsmithing; it's like a tiny traffic pylon and will squeeze in for a fluid tight seal. When popping it out for draining have a catch jug like a rinsed gallon milk jug so that you don't have a mess to deal with, rig a pull cord through a hole drilled in the jug and no splashing will happen; just be ready to wipe clean the end of the barrel quickly.

[elkhunter11]

Kroil and a bronze brush will remove rust, but once the rust is gone, you may discover a pitted barrel underneath.

[CaberTosser]

If Elk says that Kroil does the trick, I'd go that route prior to my worst case scenario fix. It depends on the severity of your pitting.

[catnthehat]

Kroil works , no doubt about it, but the foaming engine cleaners are eaasiier for some peoplee to get, you can pick tha stuff up and any Canadiiann tire, etc.
Cat

[Robmcleod82]

Wipeout

[Bound2Fish]

Originally Posted by CaberTosser

There's a product called Evapo-Rust that eats rust while leaving the non-oxidized metal alone, but I will warn that it also dissolves bluing. With precautions such as tape and plastic to protect the surfaces you want left alone and a good helping of caution it will do the trick for you. It's in the auto body section at Canadian Tire, among other places. Bonus is very low fumes and the solution can be reused until it's been chemically exhausted.

Personally I would silicone plug the muzzle, wrap and tape the outside of the rifle for finish protection, place it in a padded vice muzzle down and fill the barrel with the solution and let it sit. The plug I'm referring to is a small silicone tapered plug made for gunsmithing; it's like a tiny traffic pylon and will squeeze in for a fluid tight seal. When popping it out for draining have a catch jug like a rinsed gallon milk jug so that you don't have a mess to deal with, rig a pull cord through a hole drilled in the jug and no splashing will happen; just be ready to wipe clean the end of the barrel quickly.

x2, I have done this on one of my winnie 94's. Took care of the rust really good almost like it never existed, but it sure does do a number on the bluing so be careful of that.

[Nathan F.]

Ok so I tried some engine oil today on the bore. I couldn't find Amzoil or Mercury Quicksilver so I just used the Canadian Tire brand. Anyways, it worked pretty well and got rid of a bunch of rust but there's still some that won't come out. Maybe it could be pitting? I've never seen a pitted barrel so I'm not sure what pitting looks like. I can clearly see the rifling and it seems like they're still some rust in the grooves. The protruding part of the rifling is nice and shiny but the grooves look a bit rusty still. Will this effect my accuracy? Thanks guys!
-Nathan

[Pathfinder76]

Is it rust or is it copper?

[Lefty-Canuck]

Whoa....I need my eyes checked....I read this as "Busty ...something or another"....

LC

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by chuck

Is it rust or is it copper?

That is the 64 dollar question now, isn't it?
Now that most of the rust is gyun, i'd say it's time for some wipeout.
Using the cleaner first for the rust before the wipeout lets the wipout use all its strength on copper, so you don't have to use it as much to get the copper out , which is what it really works well for.
Cat

[Nathan F.]

Ahh ok, I never thought of the possibility of it being copper.. Where do I get this Wipeout stuff? Thanks for all your help guys! I'm hoping she'll be good to go for deer season come November!
-Nathan

[elkhunter11]

Once the rust and copper are gone, you will see if the barrel is pitted or not. Purchasing a rifle with a bore that isn't clean is always a gamble. You may end up with a shooter, or you may have made a not so great purchase.

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by Nathan F.

Ahh ok, I never thought of the possibility of it being copper.. Where do I get this Wipeout stuff? Thanks for all your help guys! I'm hoping she'll be good to go for deer season come November!
-Nathan

P&D Enterprises sells it, as do RPS Imternational and several other stores...
Cat

[Nathan F.]

Ok, sounds like I'll be making a trip to P and D today! How do I use the wipeout? Just run it through on a patch? Or do I let it soak in there?
-Nathan

[Lefty-Canuck]

Wipeout is an expanding foam....shoot it in and let it sit overnight, rinse and repeat until patches come out clean. Don't forget to pick up a straw from the box....makes using the wipeout much nicer.

LC

[gitrdun]

I let mine "marinate" in the barrel for 12 hours, turning it a couple of times to ensure good saturation all around the bore. The can has instructions on it. If you're not patient enoug for this, Wipeout also makes an accelerator.

[gitrdun]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

Wipeout is an expanding foam....shoot it in and let it sit overnight, rinse and repeat until patches come out clean. Don't forget to pick up a straw from the box....makes using the wipeout much nicer.

LC

"Rinse" ? surely you mean run a dry patch.?

[Lefty-Canuck]

Originally Posted by gitrdun

"Rinse" ? surely you mean run a dry patch.?

Yah...its another "Lefty-ism" Although I have heard others here use it.

..."rinse and repeat" means to keep doing things over and over until clean.

Fits along the lines of "proof is in the pudding"

LC

[Comstar]

Originally Posted by Lefty-Canuck

"proof is in the pudding"

LC

That can get you in trouble sometimes too...

[Nathan F.]

Well I bought some wipeout today and I let it sit in the bore while I went hunting. When I got back home I pushed a patch through and the bore looked way better already! So now the wipeout is sitting overnight and I'll see how it looks after tomorrow. Thanks for all the advice guys!

[uncle_roman]

Just curious if anyone's tried Kroil for surface rust? I read about it somewhere can't remember where though.....

[catnthehat]

Originally Posted by uncle_roman

Just curious if anyone's tried Kroil for surface rust? I read about it somewhere can't remember where though.....

I use Kroil on surface rust , yup.
A Scotch Brite pad and rub it lightly so it won't mess up the bluing and you're good.
It's a penetrating oil, so it's designed for that amomg other things.....
Cat

[Leeper]

If it was mine, I would wrap some steel wool around a Parker-Hale jag, charge it with some 280 grit lapping compound, and give the barrel about thirty strokes or so. Then I would clean it out well with Hoppes then shoot it. This might sound a bit extreme but if the barrel is rusted or pitted, it will do wonders. I've used this technique on a lot of rusted bores with surprising results. Most of the rust removers are acid and will etch the bore to a certain extent. They will remove the rust though. Leeper

[william4willow]

I just finished cleaning up a CIL 125 that was found in an old roofless shed on property that has been unoccupied for years for the owners. I had picked up some Evapo-Rust from lee Valley tools a couple of years ago to clean up some auction purchased tooling. Yes it does that ALL the bluing off right NOW! But the barrel is clean and I really cant see any pitting. Slipped my own bolt in it and it shot great, now I'm looking for a bolt for a 125 CIL or Anschutz 184. Used Evapo-Rust on everything, reblued and refinished the wood and it looks real pretty!