Sealing a riveted boat

[Outbound]

I have an ancient 13ft aluminum boat, riveted hull. It's starting to leak a little around the seams in the hull, enough that after a few hours of fishing there's 1/4" of water in the boat. What do you guys suggest for sealing the seams? I can't seem to find marine grade sealant anywhere other than crappy tire and it's in a tiny bottle and the GE marine silicone at home hardware says it's not for use below the water line. Is there a caulk I can use that will seal it up?

[calgarygringo]

I used a product called Gluevit on mine many years ago. It worked well and never leaked for many years after and was sold. It is hard to find still from what I understand but some of the specialty boat stores have it or can order it in for you. Comes in a qt can like paint and brush it on the seams.

For caulking 3m 5200 is the only 1 I would use. Messy stuff and sticks like nothing else out there. It also days days to set so make sure you allow lots of time to cure before going out in the water. Brutal stuff to take off too.

[fordtruckin]

Flex seal lol

[ljc]

Why plaster chit on it when the rivets are loose?Wash all the dirt out of it then tighten the rivets with hammer & dolly have done several boat with excellent results. Might take 2 people to do some of it.

[Outbound]

Originally Posted by ljc

Why plaster chit on it when the rivets are loose?Wash all the dirt out of it then tighten the rivets with hammer & dolly have done several boat with excellent results. Might take 2 people to do some of it.

I did that and still have some leaks. This boat is probably almost 50 years old. I filled it with water and marked the wet spots so I'm going to try sealing them up.

I found some GOOP marine sealant which was the best I could find in town. I'm gonna have to try that.

[ZJHoban]

I recently used Gflex 650. I'm not sure how it holds up over the long haul, but after 3 days of my boat never leaving the water and some roughish waves it has held up, boat stayed bone dry. Put it in every seam and about halt the rivets.

[lmtada]

Originally Posted by Outbound

I have an ancient 13ft aluminum boat, riveted hull. It's starting to leak a little around the seams in the hull, enough that after a few hours of fishing there's 1/4" of water in the boat. What do you guys suggest for sealing the seams? I can't seem to find marine grade sealant anywhere other than crappy tire and it's in a tiny bottle and the GE marine silicone at home hardware says it's not for use below the water line. Is there a caulk I can use that will seal it up?

Boat craft in Edmonton. 4926 99St NW

Edmonton, AB, T6E 3N6

Hours Of Operation

Monday - Friday 10:00-5:00

Saturday 9:00-3:00

Phone

780-437-4919

Gluvit https://boatcraft.com/products/gluvit-epoxy-sealer

[jungleboy]

This stuff is what they recommend for repairing the sports pal aluminum canoes . I bought some for mine but have not used it yet.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

[gdbugs]

100% Gflex

[H380]

Originally Posted by fordtruckin

Flex seal lol

Don't laugh , lol..I used it on the rivets and seams of my 14 ft Tanner and it hasn't leaks in 2 years ..I'm sold on the stuff

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[Salmo]

G-Flex is awesome, make sure you clean the spots you want to seal witha wire wheel, when dry squeeze the product lightly around the rivets/along the seams you want to seal. Hit it with a propane torch within a few minutes, this means you will work in sections rather than applying all the product and then heating. The torch will thin the G-Flex and it will suck right into the gaps. When it drys you are good to hit the lake.

[EZM]

I've had good luck reworking the rivets with a small sledge and block/bar. Sometimes if you can feel the rivets wiggling, all it takes is a couple good taps.

Coating with a sealant/caulk (a number of brands mentioned above) is easy and effective, but if you caulk a loose rivet it will keep wiggling and eventually wear a hole around itself through the caulk and you are back at square one a few years later.

I've done both on some old tinners and turned them from a leaky sieve into a bone dry boat - and there nothing like dry feet on a cold day.

[jungleboy]

Originally Posted by EZM

I've had good luck reworking the rivets with a small sledge and block/bar. Sometimes if you can feel the rivets wiggling, all it takes is a couple good taps.

Coating with a sealant/caulk (a number of brands mentioned above) is easy and effective, but if you caulk a loose rivet it will keep wiggling and eventually wear a hole around itself through the caulk and you are back at square one a few years later.

I've done both on some old tinners and turned them from a leaky sieve into a bone dry boat - and there nothing like dry feet on a cold day.

To be fair the stuff I mentioned earlier is what they recommend for the Sportspal canoe which is made of very thin aluminum and put together with screws and then caulked on all the seams with the sealant much like a birchbark canoe. It goes on thick over the screws and is meant to be flexible somewhat.

[barbless]

Originally Posted by EZM

I've had good luck reworking the rivets with a small sledge and block/bar. Sometimes if you can feel the rivets wiggling, all it takes is a couple good taps.

Coating with a sealant/caulk (a number of brands mentioned above) is easy and effective, but if you caulk a loose rivet it will keep wiggling and eventually wear a hole around itself through the caulk and you are back at square one a few years later.

I've done both on some old tinners and turned them from a leaky sieve into a bone dry boat - and there nothing like dry feet on a cold day.

I agree with the re-tap. Takes two people for sure. Did this on my 12 aluminum Harbor Craft. Stopped all leaks. Also re-sealed transom. Never should have sold it. Deep V hull.

[Rdamours]

I used gluvit when I sealed the seams on my 18.5 ft inboard during the restore. It flows into the seams as I recall. Not a drop over the years. I also used a high build epoxy primer on the bottom too so double protection

[fordtruckin]

Originally Posted by H380

Don't laugh , lol..I used it on the rivets and seams of my 14 ft Tanner and it hasn't leaks in 2 years ..I'm sold on the stuff

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That’s awesome! Wait you’re not the guy on the commercial with the holes in the boat are you?? J/k

[Outbound]

I ended up using the GOOP Marine sealant as everything else wasn't available locally. It seems to have done the trick for now!

[Bjay]

HI Guys
Try a material called Sikaflex. It is a marine sealant. made for use in water, fresh and salt water. Works real good. It is also used on trailers to seal leaks. It is very flexable so don't put it on too thin as it shrinks a bit after it drys. There is two kinds one is self leveling one that is not. It is used around doors and windows on trailers and on roofs to seal around vents. Make sure the area where you are putting it is spotlessly clean. Once it is on it aint commin off. Get it on your clothes and your cloths are ca-put, done ,finished. The stuff that flows will flow into some pretty skinny places. It should go on when it is warm if it is too flow well. Your building supply should have it as it is an indusrial product.
Bjay

[H380]

Originally Posted by fordtruckin

That’s awesome! Wait you’re not the guy on the commercial with the holes in the boat are you?? J/k

.No ,im taller but he is better looking ..

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