Quote:
Originally Posted by 350 mag
Theres a few videos on YouTube..
Guys disclosing what fees are reasonable ...and what's a ripoff...
If $250 in doc fees is a deal breaker most will drop.
But never pay more than that.
Never get anything at dealership besides maybe extended warranty.
It's cheaper to goto aftermarket for ANY accessories...from mudflaps, to tires and rims.
The biggest $$$$$ dealerships are making right now is selling "in house" lift or levelling kits with aftermarket rims/tires.
They hose the young kids big time on those...
Seen some 85-90k trucks in Alberta with the full kit lift tires and rims as package deals ...and it's10- 15 K above MSRP for deal....and 0%>>>>lol
The same lift kit and tires at a shop is usually 4-5 grand cheaper....
One dealer I looked at wanted $1,200 to install a spacer on a factory strut....
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There's absolutely no obligation to pay a documentation fee, YouTube video or not. It is pure profit that most often goes to the finance manager. I'm not pulling this out of the air, I've bought and helped others buy plenty of vehicles, and my dad was in the business for 40 years.
Nonetheless, the dealer may tell you to go pound sand if you don't want to pay it. If you don't want to, there's always going to be another sucker who will. There's also the ability for them to "waive" the documentation fee and then hide that into the profit of the car, which is no different than the dealer offering you an unusually high trade in value for your vehicle and then not moving much on the price of the vehicle. There are a myriad of ways to make the buyer feel as though he stuck it to the man.
Regarding extended warranty, they wouldn't be selling them if they weren't making money on them. And how often do you own a vehicle for a significant amount of time after the warranty expires?
Suffice it to say, the best strategy is to negotiate the price of the vehicle [I]all in[I], not MSRP + doc fees + whatever other additions.