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  #91  
Old 10-15-2014, 09:24 PM
Fowlow Fowlow is offline
 
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Default Reloading kits

What would be the best kit to buy starting out the prices range by a few hundred in the difference and what about brands
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  #92  
Old 11-08-2014, 08:21 PM
Sportscamper Sportscamper is offline
 
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Do reloading materials like powder and primers change their firing characteristics or become more volatile after many years? Got some powders and primers from my father that over 20 years old.
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  #93  
Old 11-08-2014, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportscamper View Post
Do reloading materials like powder and primers change their firing characteristics or become more volatile after many years? Got some powders and primers from my father that over 20 years old.
Not if they are kept cool and dry, no problem.
I have some that is past 40 years old.
Cat
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  #94  
Old 11-08-2014, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpk1982 View Post
Anyone interested in laying out out step by step how to properly set up a sizing die? As opposed to the generic instruction of 1/4 to 1/8 of a turn...thanks
I set up my full length sizing dies so that the neck is sized own to about a half caliber for uniform neck tension.
However, I don't use brass fired in other rifles, either new or fired from the rifle
I am loading for .
Cat
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  #95  
Old 01-27-2015, 12:40 PM
32-40win 32-40win is offline
 
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Good for some old cast boolit data;

http://www.castpics.net/LoadData/OM/Lyman44.pdf
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  #96  
Old 01-28-2015, 10:23 AM
32-40win 32-40win is offline
 
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Occurred to me that some younger folk may not be fully aware of, is the age of that Lyman manual and some changes that have occurred since then.
Any pressures expressed in there as PSI, are CUP pressures, piezoelectric and strain gauges that measure PSI, did not exist back then.
Any load referring to 4831 powder---is the old surplus H4831. IMR did not market 4831 back then, even though Dupont made both of them. And the old surplus vs. the new H4831 canister powder burn rates are a hair different, new is considered a bit faster. Make sure you work up your load.
Ed Matunas put out a lot of good articles in magazines, worthwhile reading for good info.
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  #97  
Old 01-28-2015, 12:02 PM
32-40win 32-40win is offline
 
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This one is a 1959 NRA reloading manual;
They call the 300H&H---"The 300Magnum" 300Win Mag did not exist.
Cool old tools, some very different articles in here, some old school how to's;

http://www.castpics.net/subsite2/Cla...ks/NRA_IRH.pdf
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  #98  
Old 02-06-2015, 07:24 PM
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Just loaded up my first rounds last night! Now if the wind would cooperate I'd be able to shoot the ladder test tomorrow.
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  #99  
Old 04-08-2015, 09:10 PM
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waldedw waldedw is offline
 
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having reloaded for over 40 years I have found that most case dents are simply caused by excess lube on the brass and are usually in the shoulder area, it takes only a slight bit of lube, best way I found is to use a lube pad
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  #100  
Old 05-25-2015, 11:32 AM
Badseed Badseed is offline
 
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Awesome post. Got a lot of great info here!
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  #101  
Old 05-25-2015, 04:23 PM
Western Star Western Star is offline
 
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Default Thanks

This is a nice tutorial, thanks for putting it together.
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  #102  
Old 07-17-2015, 01:45 PM
tommyb tommyb is offline
 
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Default Tumbler

Thank you for the steps... At what stage would you clean your brass? After de-priming?
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  #103  
Old 07-17-2015, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyb View Post
Thank you for the steps... At what stage would you clean your brass? After de-priming?
i prefer to clean with the spent primer in so i know the flash hole is clean of any media once i punch the old primer out
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  #104  
Old 12-09-2015, 08:54 PM
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Default Tumbling brass

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyb View Post
Thank you for the steps... At what stage would you clean your brass? After de-priming?
I tumble mine twice. First tumble is with crushed walnut shells before I begin to do any prep. Then I resize and do all my brass prep. I tumble a second time with corn cob media and brass polish. I like shiny brass.
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  #105  
Old 12-10-2015, 07:29 AM
gtr gtr is offline
 
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Default Different ways.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fish_e_o View Post
i prefer to clean with the spent primer in so i know the flash hole is clean of any media once i punch the old primer out
That would be like taking a shower with your dirty under wear on.
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  #106  
Old 12-14-2015, 09:20 AM
TheBrit TheBrit is offline
 
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Once I see any sign of a headstamp I stop shooting my test loads. I won't fire any of the hotter loads at that point and I will go home and pull the bullets because at that point I know they are too hot to be considered safe.

It's also worth mentioning that all of the resizing lube must be removed prior to firing reloads because that can cause a dangerous condition in the firearm from too much rearward pressure as the case slips back against the bolt face.

Otherwise a really good write up.
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  #107  
Old 12-14-2015, 03:29 PM
steamer45 steamer45 is offline
 
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What is the best way to figure out your coal for each rifle. Do you figure out where your lands are and start from there?
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  #108  
Old 12-18-2015, 09:28 AM
RolHammer RolHammer is offline
 
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Default Question about choosing donor brass

Still debating whether I want to get into reloading. But, at this early stage to at least be making sensible decisions about choosing and ammo.

It doesn't seem like my rifle is overly fussy (or just that the shooter's limitations are larger than the effect of the rifle not liking any particular ammo ), so I thought I would ask if there were manufactured ammo choices that were better than others for donor brass for reloading. Or is it just simply a case of making sure the case is actually brass and also not berger primed?
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  #109  
Old 12-18-2015, 09:34 AM
elkhunter11 elkhunter11 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RolHammer View Post
Still debating whether I want to get into reloading. But, at this early stage to at least be making sensible decisions about choosing and ammo.

It doesn't seem like my rifle is overly fussy (or just that the shooter's limitations are larger than the effect of the rifle not liking any particular ammo ), so I thought I would ask if there were manufactured ammo choices that were better than others for donor brass for reloading. Or is it just simply a case of making sure the case is actually brass and also not berger primed?
The most important thing, is using the same brand, to keep the brass as consistent as possible. I am not a fan of Federal brass, and recent Winchester brass is not of the same quality as it used to be, so if I was taking reloading into consideration when I chose my factory loads, I would likely lean towards Remington, Nosler, or Hornady.
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  #110  
Old 01-13-2016, 07:35 AM
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Default Pressure signs video, indicators to look for.

One question that always comes up is how much is to much pressure. This short video explains in detail what to look for when working up a load.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=orJdUR_X67M
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  #111  
Old 01-14-2016, 12:16 PM
32-40win 32-40win is offline
 
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Need to be a bit careful about the Ammosmith vid there, it is a valid illustration of a few problems, but is also a bit misleading in that he is incorrectly identifying some problems as being high pressure, that are not.
Expanded primer pocket illustrations are good, web expansion is not really explained well, needs to measured with a micrometer against a known constant for comparison. The "incipent" (incipient) separation ring can be a pressure issue, but is also an indicator that the brass was sized too short for the chamber, which can also show as flattened primers on the initial loading, long before the ring shows. Needing to trim the brass every 2nd or 3rd load is a sizing or pressure issue sign as well. If it is soft brass, or high pressure, needing to trim often, and primer pocket expansion, and the ring appearing in under 5 loads, show up together. There are articles further back in this sticky that explain these issues in more and better detail.
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  #112  
Old 01-14-2016, 01:28 PM
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8x68S 8x68S is offline
 
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Great post. One thing that may be worth mentioning during sizing.
If you use too much lubricant the outside case wall will "dent". Use just enough that the cases will size without much resistance. Good idea to invest in a stuck case remover set just in case (I've been loading 35+ years and only had this happen once. Used the wrong shell holder). Cases is still useable (unless you have a moon crater) but I would suggest using it for minimum loads (you don't want to un-necessarily add pressure a max load). Dent will blow out during the firing process.
After wiping off the case after sizing some will tumble the brass which cleans the cases and makes it easier to spot possible case problems. I will use case neck brushes to clean the inside of the case neck. It allows better adhesion when seating the bullet. I also use primer pocket brushes to clean the primer pocket. This allows for better primer ignition. Depending on tumbling media used you will need to check the primer pocket to see if any media is blocking the flash hole.
Some will get themselves a flash hole deburring tool to remove any burrs from the flash hole inside the case during the manufacturing process. You can get a universal flash hole deburring tool and then all you will need are the pilot stops.
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  #113  
Old 01-14-2016, 07:51 PM
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I am looking at getting into reloading! I have the Shooters Bible Guide to Reloading book are there other better ones I could get?? and also should I buy each piece individually or buy a kit?? what brand would you go with??

Love this thread I will be following it!!

Anthony
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  #114  
Old 02-07-2016, 06:20 PM
Butch1911 Butch1911 is offline
 
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Yes very much ,thanks
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  #115  
Old 02-11-2016, 06:00 PM
wolfriver wolfriver is offline
 
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Great thread, thanks
Any dies or other equipment to stay away from?
Manufacturers etc
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  #116  
Old 02-18-2016, 02:10 PM
runoutofbullits runoutofbullits is offline
 
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I'm going to have to get into reloading, it looks fun.
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  #117  
Old 02-23-2016, 06:32 AM
RolHammer RolHammer is offline
 
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I'm in the process of my first foray into reloading. The powder step's coming up & I'm just wondering if there's a 'best way' to go about choosing a powder to use. I have a buddy who's had great results with BL-C(2). In some stuff I was reading, a guy was singing the praises of IMR-4895. For .223 - which is what I'm working on - the current version of the Lyman manual shows a load with Benchmark as the 'potentially most accurate' using 52 gr. HBPT & Varget for 55 gr. SPT. I was planning on trying out V-Max in 53 gr.
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  #118  
Old 09-30-2016, 07:22 AM
rusty2078 rusty2078 is offline
 
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Thanks for all the info here, as a guy venturing into the world of reloading, are there any books that you guys could recommend as sort of a "how to", as well as a list of necessary equipment?
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  #119  
Old 10-03-2016, 12:18 PM
Bigiron Bigiron is offline
 
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Thanks for the great thread!
Great info for newbies to reloading. I'm sure there's some info that not so newbies also appreciated!
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  #120  
Old 10-03-2016, 01:41 PM
32-40win 32-40win is offline
 
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Thought I'd add this one in, someone else found it, but, it is one of the more complete illustrations of case pressure signs, with decent explanations, I have seen.

http://www.primalrights.com/articles...nding-pressure

And as an aside, a thread discussing loading manual pressure, and the foibles of trying to estimate pressure. You need to read the whole thing, it gets some answers from people who really can answer some of these questions and point out the pitfalls, and an explanation of how loading manual pressure info, is arrived at.

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthr...?#Post11366654
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