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  #31  
Old 12-06-2014, 08:51 PM
petew petew is offline
 
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Originally Posted by L.O.S.T.Arrow View Post
. AGREED...to do that with a modern bow one woukd have to tie knots in strings...dont try that either..lol
So if I came to the shop and showed I can shorten a draw by an inch with just adjusting string and cable length can I have the bow free, and if I fail I buy it?
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  #32  
Old 12-06-2014, 09:14 PM
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normanrd normanrd is offline
 
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So if I came to the shop and showed I can shorten a draw by an inch with just adjusting string and cable length can I have the bow free, and if I fail I buy it?

Just an inch? You were claiming 2 or 3 before
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  #33  
Old 12-06-2014, 09:25 PM
petew petew is offline
 
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Just an inch? You were claiming 2 or 3 before
That's double what the original poster was looking to get.
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  #34  
Old 12-06-2014, 09:29 PM
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Default A question on draw length

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Originally Posted by petew View Post
That's double what the original poster was looking to get.

lol, but your claim was 2 to 3 inches, 4 to 6 times the op's requirements as well as a claim of increased performance compared to the OEM mod installation. Pretty tall claims....
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  #35  
Old 12-06-2014, 09:48 PM
petew petew is offline
 
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Originally Posted by normanrd View Post
lol, but your claim was 2 to 3 inches, 4 to 6 times the op's requirements as well as a claim of increased performance compared to the OEM mod installation. Pretty tall claims....
I still have the HCA Excalibur, with both size modules, I can guarantee it on that one . any bets?

Every bow will be different on the amount it can be changed , but they all can be changed.
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  #36  
Old 12-06-2014, 09:57 PM
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normanrd normanrd is offline
 
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Default A question on draw length

So what exactly are you saying? You will shorten the draw length by 3 inches using only twists in the string and cables, be within OEM spec on all parameters, and out perform the OEM module change with a spec tune? And do all this safely?
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  #37  
Old 12-06-2014, 10:09 PM
petew petew is offline
 
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Originally Posted by normanrd View Post
So what exactly are you saying? You will shorten the draw length by 3 inches using only twists in the string and cables, be within OEM spec on all parameters, and out perform the OEM module change with a spec tune? And do all this safely?
I am saying on the Excalibur I will shorten the draw and make it faster than it is with the short module without changing the module to the short module.
Safe, of course . You don't have a press and do your own bow work do you.
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  #38  
Old 12-06-2014, 10:24 PM
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normanrd normanrd is offline
 
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Default A question on draw length

And that's how long it takes for the Pete ward to get personal and defensive. Right to the point where he can't bs his way out. Then it's bully time. Deja-vu? It's not rocket science bud! If you shorten the brace height and lengthen and the power stroke you are going to get more performance wow what a revelation!

Of course I have my own bow press and I deal with compound Bows that are not circa 1994. I'm done with this Pete. You know you don't have to be right every single time! If you're starting to get personal and not willing to compare based on OEM specs have a nice night.
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  #39  
Old 12-06-2014, 10:31 PM
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Well that escalated quickly lol
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  #40  
Old 12-06-2014, 10:34 PM
petew petew is offline
 
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  #41  
Old 12-08-2014, 08:39 AM
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L.O.S.T.Arrow L.O.S.T.Arrow is offline
 
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Originally Posted by petew View Post
So if I came to the shop and showed I can shorten a draw by an inch with just adjusting string and cable length can I have the bow free, and if I fail I buy it?
That could be done however....

Since most brand bows manufacturers specs are tuned at full draw weight twisting strings will dramatically change all specs...on some bows for example draw weight will increase 1 lb JUST on one twist...

This is my Mathews and other brand bow spec chart that demonstrates what and how twisting a string will effects all specs...




So to shorten that draw serious twisting is invovled...BCY one of the leading string manufacturers states "On a standard compound bow, initially 1/2 to 3/4 twists per inch is a suggested range"..extreme twist would be two twists per inch

To shorten a bows draw even one inch...would take a serious ammount of over twisting to cable...[as we cant lengthen a string by twisting and a string can be only un-twisting so very little maybe a twist or two untill in becomes counter twisting]

As... if wanting to shorten draw only string can be twisted to shorten...which also lowers poundage but now you have cam timing, ATA and brace height that are moving dramatically...

We can counteract somewhat with spec if we twist two twists to string to every one cable..however Somewhere a string or cable is going to become seriously overtwisted and becomes a safety hazard [may cause breakage and dryfire]

So therefore it is impossible to shorten a draw 2-3 inchs and have a SAFE bow ....let alone one to the bow and manufactures specs...

Even one inch is pushing to limits and specs and safety will suffer, which also would void all manufactures warrenty...

I can make a 70 lb bow .....80, 90 or even an 100lbs draw weight too by installing shorter strings...wise, safe.... NO!!!

Neil
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  #42  
Old 12-08-2014, 09:07 AM
nekred nekred is offline
 
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One more and done.....

The high country Excalibur is a completely different bow than what the poster was talking about....I shot the Z-force way back then which was the speed bow built by high country,,,

Technology has advanced greatly since then.... I have shortened older technology bows by short stringing them which also reduce draw weigh and basically "pre-draws" the bow. While this may work on SOME newer style bows in SOME CASES... in others it can cause major issues that could injure or hurt the user. Especially where the draw stop is designed to work a certain way and bow would reach 100 percent letoff before the draw stop was achieved which is an extremely dangerous situation.... think of a loaded gun with a hair trigger with a locked bolt and no safe place to point it.... no matter what if it does release it will be like a dry-fire....

Those old hatchet cams were designed to take up string quickly but as a result they had a steep valley with a long bottom and back wall was not solid as there was no draw stop. Those bows also did not have the amount of pre-stress in the limbs as todays compounds do...Todays compounds have major pre-stress in the limbs especially the PSE's and Bowtechs to get the performance they do with an overdrive system built into the cam not just a big hatchet to take up string slack.... the pre-stress also means the limb is not designed to flex as much thus why very small amounts of twists drastically changes specs.

The Excalibur was about 75-80% efficient as compared to today's bows which are 90-95% efficiency (thus why they have same speed with much less noise)

Technology grows at exponential rate.... whether it be computers or bows... today's R and D department at Hoyt is bigger than the R and D department of all bow companies put together in 1991. Tolerances are much finer and today's bows are engineered by many open minds thinking outside of the box.... Not just some guy playing around in his garage....

The Compound Bow basically was on scene for public availability in 1970 ish (55 years ago) the Excalibur came on scene in very early 90's (23 years ago)

so say about 1/2 way through development.... so to compare technologically using same exponential rate of advancement.... the automobile is about 100 years old this would be like comparing a 1960 vehicle to today's vehicles.

In comparison..... go change the points in your F150.... and see how that goes!...

Pete you simply gave advice based on your old technology and not only is it no longer valid.... it is downright dangerous. There is a reason why dinosaurs are extinct....cool to see in museums.... and if I want to know what it was like to actually hunt one... then I will ask you!...
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