Need advise fleshing.

[dugh]

I'm having trouble fleshing coyotes and would like advise on method, tools used etc. I try to clean skin the tail end for a couple of inches as best I can and can flesh the main part of the body. But the front legs, head/face area, lips and ear cartilage are giving me great difficulty. Sadly I have ruined many hides by ripping large holes in them or screwing up the ears. I have made an adjustable stand and we use a round, laminated wood fleshing beam, in a heated well lit shop. So I have no excuse for shoddy work, just lack experience. I watched the fellow from the Colony south of Westlock flesh at the convention in Lloyd, he made it look so darned easy.
Any help appreciated.
Doug

[KegRiver]

Don't worry about removing all of the flesh, but remove as much fat as you can.
Flesh will not harm the pelt once it is dried, or devalue the pelt. Too much fat will burn the pelt.

Work from the head toward the tail, scrapping with a dull tool. What you want to do is render the fat out more then cut it off.

If you work too deep you will expose the roots of the hair/fur and the fur will loosen, badly degrading the pelt or worse, making it totally worthless.

Don't try to get it all, just get the larger patches. Then work hand soap into the flesh side and scrape that off with you fleshing tool. The wipe clean with a wet towel using warm clear water only. No soap. At this point you are trying to remove most but not all of the soap. I little soap will not harm anything.

Remember, it is better to leave too much flesh and fat then to ruin the pelt.

For fleshing tools, a Moose or Deer leg bone works the best but a large spoon, a very dull knife, anything of that nature works well enough.
Remember, the goal is to scrape, not to cut.

You can cut off large pieces of fat and flesh, but be careful, pull up from the pelt and cut with your knife flat to the pelt. Parallel.
Don't expect to see a lot of material in front of your fleshing tool, you should get mostly an oily soupy looking mess, that's good.
If you start to get a connected mass you are taking off too much.

Boy it's hard trying to describe the procedure. It's so much easier to show.
Maybe someone here can show you how it's done. That's so much better a way to learn.

One last thing. My way is not the only way or the best way. It is simply one way that works.

[ILUVTRAPPING]

Keg River you got it nailed!! I use an empty soup can for scraping...it has a dull round surface to the edge and works good for me...as for doing the ear cartaledge it takes practice, if you know a good taxidermist just hang around for a couple of skinnings he does...I use a clamp and a pair of pliers for the ears.

[Bushmaster]

And if you're preparing these pelts for sale, you don't need to remove the ear cartilage, just trim all the meat and fat off the ear butt...and sprinkle some borax on it.

[bow]

i find a flat beam works better for me less holes. i made mine out of 2 by 8.

[DairyMan7]

Time, you'll get good, thats the best remedy.

Oh I know it sucks right now but in time ya get good. I never worry to much, If I make a hole I use to sew it up nice, if the hole is too big well tan it yourself. You can sew to your hearts content your not fooling the grader.

The ears though, once you get to the ears, the best way i've learn was from a legend of the canadian trappers, Gordy Klassen knows him.

Anyways when you get to the ears, use your fingers to make a small hole then with a screw driver put it through the hole grab the end and apply steady down pressure not enough to rip the ear but enough to do something.

Inverts the ear the best.

Now you have problem with the legs, try saw dust. gives you a little added grip with alittle more margin of error.