Browning BLR LT takedown 30-06 accuracy problems

[NinjaHunter]

Hey everyone. Just came back from the gun range for scope zeroing before rut period.

During that range session I had, it seems like my Browning BLR 30-06 LT takedown isn't able to shoot within 1 moa like my tikka t3 (300wsm) in 100 yards.

The grouping of the BLR is around 2-3 MOA.

Here's the handload I was using with it:

30-06
IMR4064, 47.5 GR
150 GR SST Hornady.

Scope: Minox ZA5, 3-15X50, with ring heights being 3cm.

Note: it seems that the barrel is quick to copper foul.

Any advice to make the BLR more consistent and more accurate?

Will appreciate it.

[elkhunter11]

If you have only tried one load, you haven't given the gun much of a chance. Try different loads.

[NinjaHunter]

Thanks!

I was thinking of making the handloads more hotter since I've notice that my tikka t3 (300wsm)'s handload is hotter than my 30-06.

Also, does the heavy trigger pull (~6#) affect the gun accuracy also?

[elkhunter11]

Originally Posted by NinjaHunter

Thanks!

I was thinking of making the handloads more hotter since I've notice that my tikka t3 (300wsm)'s handload is hotter than my 30-06.

Also, does the heavy trigger pull (~6#) affect the gun accuracy also?

A heavy trigger pull, combined with a light rifle can effect the shooters ability to shoot a rifle accurately.

[Don_Parsons]

A few things combined "could" put things off.

It might take a few bullets to help copper fowl the barrel.
I tried Varget and IMR 4064 in both of my 30/06's with out much luck,,, that powder works awesome in the 308 winchester cases.
This is not saying that it won't work in 30/06 since they have loading data for them.

I switch to H 4350 & H 4831 as these powders shin in the Odd-6.

They make ligther trigger springs, 3 & 4 lb is nice,,, better than 5 & 6.

My friend Ron Wheeler is a old school rifle fellow,,, he likes to run about 100+++ rounds down the pipe to make sure it has full length fowling,,, I up to 400+ rounds before getting underway into the harvest.

A few weeks ago I swabbed the barrel with a light coat of oil, then launched 7 fowlers. This was due to the 14 days of rain, snow and mud.

I stopped at the Rocky Range to check the BDC retrical up to 600m's,,, all good so far.

I dropped 1gr less then max using those H powders, after doing my ladder test I found a nice load between the Nodes at 55.3gr of H-4831 CCI-BR primer for the 178gr bullets.

I still need to play with the H-4350.

Let us know how you make out at getting it up to speed.
Nothing like trying a few things, one at a time of course.

Don

[NinjaHunter]

Thanks for the advises!

I'll experiment with different powders and and powder charges. And also go to calgary to have the gunsmith work on the trigger pull.

Hopefully it can be as accurate as my tikka t3 someday.

Until then, I'll toil away.

[Dean2]

Originally Posted by NinjaHunter

Thanks for the advises!

I'll experiment with different powders and and powder charges. And also go to calgary to have the gunsmith work on the trigger pull.

Hopefully it can be as accurate as my tikka t3 someday.

Until then, I'll toil away.

Not going to happen. BLR is a great gun but they won't shoot like a bolt gun. Not what they are made for. IF you can get it to do 1 MOA that is damn good for a lever. Also, don't load a BLR to max loads. It doesn't have the caming power of a bolt. You want to be 2- 3 grains off max and look for a load around there that is accurate.

[Don_Parsons]

My bad,,, the 55.3gr load I used H-4350.

And yes, watch for flat primers and avoid running the pressures up at max.

I'm running my bolt rifle charge in the middle of half to 3/4,,, it would be the 2 node from the high pressure max load one.

I'm post a writer up on the "Return to 30/06" thread today, on doing a practical ladder test of finding that magic round. At least in an attempt to narrow the gap of finding it.

It's the fastest way I've been able to do it, every person does this their own way, but the fundamentals all lead to the same results. A load that each rifle likes since they are all different.

Don

[58thecat]

Originally Posted by Dean2

Not going to happen. BLR is a great gun but they won't shoot like a bolt gun. Not what they are made for. IF you can get it to do 1 MOA that is damn good for a lever. Also, don't load a BLR to max loads. It doesn't have the caming power of a bolt. You want to be 2- 3 grains off max and look for a load around there that is accurate.

You would be surprised what some levers can do.

To the OP, just go back to the basic load development, change things up until you find what it likes, the trigger as you said can be adjusted, now you got some bench time and range time ahead of you.

[OldNewGuy]

To the OP.....

I have a BLR LT Takedown in Stainless, .308. I had one heck of a time getting a decent group with 3 to 5 shots with a new scope on it, never mind zeroing the glass.

Turns out that my BLR (like most, apparently) will start to string widely once the barrel gets hot.

I basically restricted myself to two-shot "groups", then letting the barrel cool before shooting the next "group" in the zero process. Doing it that way brought the 2 paper holes to within about .5" to .9" consistently. Got the thing pretty much zero'd. It is a hunting rifle, and it is the first shot, or maybe two if need be, that count in the field.

Try waiting for 5 minutes between zero efforts, shoot another rifle while waiting, you may be surprised how well the thing actually places the bullets where you want 'em.

Plus the other note about trying different bullets/powder charges - mine took a while to find out what it liked.

O.N.G.

[Dick284]

The takedown BLR's are notorious for having issues with tighter groups.
Sketchy trigger
2 piece stock
Takedown system

All variables that stack tollerences against you.

I've heard moving to a scout style intermediate eye relief scope mounted on the barrel instead of the receiver can help things along.

[OldNewGuy]

Originally Posted by Dick284

The takedown BLR's are notorious for having issues with tighter groups.
Sketchy trigger
2 piece stock
Takedown system

All variables that stack tollerences against you.

I've heard moving to a scout style intermediate eye relief scope mounted on the barrel instead of the receiver can help things along.

Agree with the above. Pic below of mine, with Leupold 2.5X28 IER (Intermediate Eye Relief/Scout Style). Eye Relief 6.5" to about 9". No issues now with take down/reassembly/good groups.



O.N.G.

[58thecat]

Originally Posted by OldNewGuy

To the OP.....

I have a BLR LT Takedown in Stainless, .308. I had one heck of a time getting a decent group with 3 to 5 shots with a new scope on it, never mind zeroing the glass.

Turns out that my BLR (like most, apparently) will start to string widely once the barrel gets hot.

I basically restricted myself to two-shot "groups", then letting the barrel cool before shooting the next "group" in the zero process. Doing it that way brought the 2 paper holes to within about .5" to .9" consistently. Got the thing pretty much zero'd. It is a hunting rifle, and it is the first shot, or maybe two if need be, that count in the field.

Try waiting for 5 minutes between zero efforts, shoot another rifle while waiting, you may be surprised how well the thing actually places the bullets where you want 'em.

Plus the other note about trying different bullets/powder charges - mine took a while to find out what it liked.

O.N.G.

Take this info and run with it, tried, tested and true.

[gtr]

Originally Posted by Dean2

Not going to happen. BLR is a great gun but they won't shoot like a bolt gun. Not what they are made for. IF you can get it to do 1 MOA that is damn good for a lever. Also, don't load a BLR to max loads. It doesn't have the caming power of a bolt. You want to be 2- 3 grains off max and look for a load around there that is accurate.

After shooting these for guns since the late seventies, this post makes me laugh!