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02-18-2020, 06:00 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 264
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refinishing stock on rem M700 BDL?
Just got a used one and contemplating stripping the high gloss varnish and doing an oil finish. I have read that this finish is difficult to strip. Anyone have any experience?
Thanks
Vance
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02-18-2020, 08:30 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,832
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#1 patients. You can use stripper but not really effective and will eat forend tip and grip cap . A hot air paint stripper works somewhat . Sandpaper , sanding block works. Be patient don’t round square edges , don’t get careless and sand checkering. Say a few curse words and doubt why you ever started this . There’s no fast way to do it . It’s not hard just slow tedious work .
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02-19-2020, 11:12 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: West Kelowna B.C.
Posts: 409
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Have heard of using wood scrapers
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02-19-2020, 11:14 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 308
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Minwax antique oil
I'm just in the middle of refinishing a walnut mannlicher stock.
It had a polyurethane clear coat that had better days.
I have used a furniture varnish stripper with light coats. Took a few coats but has removed 100% of the poly.
I then steamed the stock with a wet clean cloth and a house hold iron to raise the grain.
Proceeded with a light sand with 320 grit.
I have finished it with minwax antique oil and its turned out better than any other finish I have tried. If your looking for a oil finish I'd recommend you checking it out. Super easy to use.
My 2 cents
__________________
A man is only as good as his word.
Tight lines.......straight shooting
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02-19-2020, 12:21 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,832
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If just want a “dull “ finish you can rub down the stock with rotten stone .It will dull the Varathane finish
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02-19-2020, 01:42 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Near Edmonton
Posts: 15,043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vance
Just got a used one and contemplating stripping the high gloss varnish and doing an oil finish. I have read that this finish is difficult to strip. Anyone have any experience?
Thanks
Vance
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Remove any plastic grip caps, recoil pads etc, tape off the black forened cap completely if it has one. Circa 1850 Paint stripper is very aggressive and will remove the Urethane finish. I have used envro friendly stuff (Soy based) from Drumond on other guns but never on a Remington and the Rem finish is very tough to remove, the Circa I know works for sure.
Drumond if you want to give it a try you get here. Circa you can buy anywhere.
SHERWIN-WILLIAMS CANADA 8783
993 FIR ST
SHERWOOD PARK, AB, Canada T8A 4N5
Phone: 780-417-8763
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02-19-2020, 06:03 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sylvan Lake
Posts: 3,416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean2
Remove any plastic grip caps, recoil pads etc, tape off the black forened cap completely if it has one. Circa 1850 Paint stripper is very aggressive and will remove the Urethane finish. I have used envro friendly stuff (Soy based) from Drumond on other guns but never on a Remington and the Rem finish is very tough to remove, the Circa I know works for sure.
Drumond if you want to give it a try you get here. Circa you can buy anywhere.
SHERWIN-WILLIAMS CANADA 8783
993 FIR ST
SHERWOOD PARK, AB, Canada T8A 4N5
Phone: 780-417-8763
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I looked everywhere for the original Circa and all places are carrying the new environmentally friendly stuff. It sucks, but luckily I found an old can at a small town HH store when travelling for work.
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02-19-2020, 07:49 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean2
Remove any plastic grip caps, recoil pads etc, tape off the black forened cap completely if it has one. Circa 1850 Paint stripper is very aggressive and will remove the Urethane finish. I have used envro friendly stuff (Soy based) from Drumond on other guns but never on a Remington and the Rem finish is very tough to remove, the Circa I know works for sure.
Drumond if you want to give it a try you get here. Circa you can buy anywhere.
SHERWIN-WILLIAMS CANADA 8783
993 FIR ST
SHERWOOD PARK, AB, Canada T8A 4N5
Phone: 780-417-8763
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Is the circa 1850 in a new plastic jug by chance?
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02-19-2020, 07:56 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Near Edmonton
Posts: 15,043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icehunter
Is the circa 1850 in a new plastic jug by chance?
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The old one and the one I use comes in a pint can. My bet is the plastic jug version is the new environment friendly version. Never used that version so no idea how good it works.
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02-19-2020, 08:34 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,158
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The circa 1850 is now hard to find. Klean Strip works well too and is available at Lowes etc.
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02-19-2020, 09:18 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean2
The old one and the one I use comes in a pint can. My bet is the plastic jug version is the new environment friendly version. Never used that version so no idea how good it works.
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That's what I used to use all the time, cant find it now.
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02-19-2020, 09:47 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: East of the big smoke
Posts: 1,496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by partsman
Have heard of using wood scrapers
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X2
That finish is hard. I have softened it up with chemical then cabinet scraper.
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02-19-2020, 10:12 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 6,496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deer Hunter
The circa 1850 is now hard to find. Klean Strip works well too and is available at Lowes etc.
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Not hard to find at all.
OP....Give er with Circa 1850. Worked very well on my BDL. I do boiled linseed oil, takes 3-4 months to do properly, but I get the results I want.
Circa will melt the white plastic spacers so cover or remove all prior. 2 coats slapped on with a cheap brush then wrap in foil for 3-5 minutes, plastic scraper to remove what you can, then an old terry towel rub down. Likely 1 applications.
__________________
You matter. Unless you multiply yourself by the speed of light squared... ...then you energy.
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02-20-2020, 07:54 AM
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Banned
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 270person
Not hard to find at all.
OP....Give er with Circa 1850. Worked very well on my BDL. I do boiled linseed oil, takes 3-4 months to do properly, but I get the results I want.
Circa will melt the white plastic spacers so cover or remove all prior. 2 coats slapped on with a cheap brush then wrap in foil for 3-5 minutes, plastic scraper to remove what you can, then an old terry towel rub down. Likely 1 applications.
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Where are you finding circa 1850 locally?
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02-20-2020, 10:19 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 6,496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deer Hunter
Where are you finding circa 1850 locally?
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Windsor Plywood. Cloverdale Paints.
sns2 was having trouble finding it last year as well. I just walked into a Windsor.
__________________
You matter. Unless you multiply yourself by the speed of light squared... ...then you energy.
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02-20-2020, 10:34 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: My House
Posts: 13,457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 270person
Not hard to find at all.
OP....Give er with Circa 1850. Worked very well on my BDL. I do boiled linseed oil, takes 3-4 months to do properly, but I get the results I want.
Circa will melt the white plastic spacers so cover or remove all prior. 2 coats slapped on with a cheap brush then wrap in foil for 3-5 minutes, plastic scraper to remove what you can, then an old terry towel rub down. Likely 1 applications.
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This is the finish that Elmer Fudd and all his dyed in the wool devotees use.
For those who are not part of this select group, which is led locally by 270Person, this is the finish of choice...
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/wat...-ml/1000426717
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02-20-2020, 12:29 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 270person
Windsor Plywood. Cloverdale Paints.
sns2 was having trouble finding it last year as well. I just walked into a Windsor.
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Ok thanks
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02-20-2020, 12:52 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Ft. McMurray
Posts: 38,572
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I used to strip factory finishes with commercial stripper, whisker with alcohol , burnish, then after sealing with Birchwood Casey I used either Birchwood Casey finish or GB Linspeed.
Linspeed is very thick and goes in very well, with the Drying agents in Birchwood Casey and Linspeed, both resulted in a fantastic, durable finish that was months quicker than straight linseed oil which actually does not seal the wood .
Cat
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Anytime I figure I've got this long range thing figured out, I just strap into the sling and irons and remind myself that I don't!
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02-20-2020, 05:13 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 264
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stripper advice (seriously)
Thanks fellas. Appreciate all the tips.
Likely going to keep the rifle, so will put it in the queue for stock refinishing (which keeps getting longer).
Cheers
Vance
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02-20-2020, 06:23 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catnthehat
I used to strip factory finishes with commercial stripper, whisker with alcohol , burnish, then after sealing with Birchwood Casey I used either Birchwood Casey finish or GB Linspeed.
Linspeed is very thick and goes in very well, with the Drying agents in Birchwood Casey and Linspeed, both resulted in a fantastic, durable finish that was months quicker than straight linseed oil which actually does not seal the wood .
Cat
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I haven't seen linspeed in years now. I would love to find some.
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02-20-2020, 06:38 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 715
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Lately I have been working with a bunch of finishes on 1x6 walnut. I have used antique oil (minwax) danish oil,BLO,tru-oil (which I have always used) Tung oil,tung oil finished with BLO Tru oil finished with a rubbed BLO.
The one finish that hit me one night was to mix BLO with Tru-oil 1 to 1. You can adjust the sheen by adding or removing the truoil. It dries overnight, gives a dull sheen and is durable. Its gives a harder finish then BLO and actually works nicely. Hand rubbed on and set to dry it is slightly glossy,but as it dries the gloss leaves and gives a sheen.
With the minwax antique oil there is a real problem with delamination if its not sanded between coats. I have also read that its not a real waterproof finish.
Being a autobody painter I have also done quite a few stocks with automotive clear. Its expensive to do using a good quality clear,it is extremely slippery when it gets wet,it brings out the grain nicely on a nice chunk of wood and its durable. Plus I can polish it out and really make it look nice.
I contacted Remington once to get some of there finish but they wouldn't sell it to me.
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02-20-2020, 07:16 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Near Edmonton
Posts: 15,043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icehunter
I haven't seen linspeed in years now. I would love to find some.
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You can order it online from Brownelles or direct from The maker. Last batch I got off amazon.
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02-20-2020, 07:27 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Alberta
Posts: 4,279
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Strip with circa1850
Finish with timberluxe
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02-21-2020, 10:01 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 6,496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sns2
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This is quite amusing coming from someone who just refinished his 30-06, 32-40, and .303 with brown crayons.
I heard he's even had crayon holders sewn into his suspenders so he can refinish and snack at a higher rate.
__________________
You matter. Unless you multiply yourself by the speed of light squared... ...then you energy.
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02-21-2020, 10:30 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Somewhere north of Edmonton
Posts: 616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fps plus
#1 patients. You can use stripper but not really effective and will eat forend tip and grip cap . A hot air paint stripper works somewhat . Sandpaper , sanding block works. Be patient don’t round square edges , don’t get careless and sand checkering. Say a few curse words and doubt why you ever started this . There’s no fast way to do it . It’s not hard just slow tedious work .
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Agree 100% on the sandpaper and patience!
I redid the stock on my one Savage 99C a few years back and used a Tru-Oil kit. It came out real nice. The link below shows some pics:
http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showt...ight=savage+99
I used sandpaper and elbow grease to remove the original finish. It took some time and effort but I was careful and it came out pretty darn good for a first timer!
__________________
It matters not how straight the gate,
How charged with punishments the scroll,
I am master of my fate:
I am the captain of my soul.
***William Henley***
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02-21-2020, 11:12 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Near Edmonton
Posts: 15,043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CptnBlues63
Agree 100% on the sandpaper and patience!
I redid the stock on my one Savage 99C a few years back and used a Tru-Oil kit. It came out real nice. The link below shows some pics:
http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showt...ight=savage+99
I used sandpaper and elbow grease to remove the original finish. It took some time and effort but I was careful and it came out pretty darn good for a first timer!
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Stripper is a far better idea than sanding. Sanding finish of will quite often result in a lot of wood being removed leaving the wood to metal joints, butt plate, checkering etc no longer a perfectly flat match. You can see this on a lot of used guns where the wood now meets the metal with the metal sitting proud at the joint. There is zero advantage to sanding over chemical stripping and many negatives.
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02-21-2020, 11:46 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: My House
Posts: 13,457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 270person
This is quite amusing coming from someone who just refinished his 30-06, 32-40, and .303 with brown crayons.
I heard he's even had crayon holders sewn into his suspenders so he can refinish and snack at a higher rate.
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Don't knock it till ya try it. Helps with waterproofing too.
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02-25-2020, 09:56 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Somewhere north of Edmonton
Posts: 616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean2
Stripper is a far better idea than sanding. Sanding finish of will quite often result in a lot of wood being removed leaving the wood to metal joints, butt plate, checkering etc no longer a perfectly flat match. You can see this on a lot of used guns where the wood now meets the metal with the metal sitting proud at the joint. There is zero advantage to sanding over chemical stripping and many negatives.
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You didn't look at my pictures obviously. You should. Make note of the checkering. I will admit, I didn't sand the checkering itself, just carefully sanded around it.
It's worth noting I took my time as I didn't want to take too much wood off.......just the old varnish. I did it all by hand (no power tools) and everything fit back together perfectly and it looks great.
__________________
It matters not how straight the gate,
How charged with punishments the scroll,
I am master of my fate:
I am the captain of my soul.
***William Henley***
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02-25-2020, 10:46 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Near Edmonton
Posts: 15,043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CptnBlues63
You didn't look at my pictures obviously. You should. Make note of the checkering. I will admit, I didn't sand the checkering itself, just carefully sanded around it.
It's worth noting I took my time as I didn't want to take too much wood off.......just the old varnish. I did it all by hand (no power tools) and everything fit back together perfectly and it looks great.
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I meant no offense. Like I said in my post "often", not always. You can do a good job with sand paper but it takes a LOT longer and with inexperienced people it often has the downfalls I talked about. If you insist on doing it the hard way, don't let me or anyone else stop you, just trying to provide a better option is all.
I did in fact look at your pictures and to me they show exactly what I was talking about but I chose not to make those comments. Since you have raised it specifically; The butt of the stock rolls down to the recoil pad, it is no longer a straight line, and the lever action tang line is sitting well proud of the wood that joins it. If you look at a model 99 that has not been refinished this is not true. Yours also shows significant rounding of the raised area above the lever. This should be a nice crisp line, yours is now rounded over a significant amount. Finally, you can see that where the wood meets the rear of the action, the wood is now 1/8" shorter than a proper meet at the action like the unfinished stock shows.
This is what the lever to wood joint should look like.
This is yours
Here you can see the hump in your refinished stock and how it rolls down to the Recoil pad. This should be a perfectly straight line.
Should look like this
Last edited by Dean2; 02-25-2020 at 11:13 AM.
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