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Old 02-18-2018, 11:17 PM
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Exclamation A few questions for the target/3d shooters

I haven't bought much archery gear in the last few years, and other than the IQ system and the $1200 auto rangefinder I don't see a whole lot new, just watching prices for accessories skyrocketing.
Questions-
-I have an old Toxonic sight that I am using, other than it not having a circle window it is likely as durable and adjustable as anything I see new. Is there any point in trying to modify a scope mount to fit the old sight or should I just buy something made for a scope?
-does it benefit having a long bar on the sight to move your focal distance ahead of the bow? I know it works on handguns, should on bows too?
-I have never shot a lot with a long stabilizer, I see how they would stop whip and unwanted motion but are they worth the money?
-How do you determine the weight and length to buy?
-Do you use front and rear facing stabs or just front?
-Has anyone from here made their own extended stabilizer?
-I have always wanted to try a magnifier but do not have the scope, peep or clarifier. Are they worth the money? The eyes are getting old, I feel it may be a little like cheating, is it?
-If you have used a lens do you use crosshairs or a single pin?
-What strength do you find the best? 2x, 4x, 6x? Can it be done without a clarifier?

If anyone has a nice single pin target sight, magnifier lenses, 30"+ carbon stabilizer please PM me prices and info
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Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck
I wasn't thinking far enough ahead for an outcome, I was ranting. By definition, a rant doesn't imply much forethought.....
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Old 02-19-2018, 06:36 AM
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I have no experience with a clarifier.

Most high end target sights will have an adjustable bar. All the way extended my not be the best for someone and positioning is base on the individual person and trial and error. This is also very true for stabilizer length, weights, and combination. It has as much to do with your form and shot execution as it does with the type of bow you shoot and how it balances. My suggestion would be to head to place like Jimbows where they have an indoor range and the ability to try endless combinations of stabs and weights.
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Old 02-19-2018, 09:49 AM
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As far as stabilizers go you will have to play around with different lengths and weights and find out what works for you. I find the more weight I have the steadier I am. I run a front and back bar and find that the back bar balances out the bow good for me. I think most people run something like a 2x or 4x lens for 3D, and a 6x for target
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Old 02-19-2018, 10:02 AM
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Lefty-Canuck Lefty-Canuck is offline
 
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A longer sight bar does a few things. If you have an adjustable (modular) Peep you can move the bar in and out to match the housing to the Peep size. Also if using optics and clarifier, you can use the bar radius to "focus" your lens.

Yes a long stab will make a difference, each bow and shooter is different so you need to try what works for you. Some use a 1:4 or 1:3 ratio, front to back weight as a starting point. On some bows I use a front and single rear stab and some I use a front and dual vbar. The weigh on each bar varies. Paper bow I have front 30" with 11oz, dual vbar 12" opposite side of sight with 8oz and opposite to that 10" with 8oz.

Using optics is not cheating, it's does change your equipment class to Open though. I actually shoot better without optics and in my paper bow I use a 2x lens with a 0.029" pin and no clarifier. If I see too much movement I panic and it messes with my shot execution so the less movement I see (power on the lens) the better for me.

LC
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Old 02-19-2018, 11:18 AM
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A longer sighting plane on a bow is not quite the same as it is on a firearm. Since your sight is mounted to the riser and since the riser flexes under tension of full draw, a longer sighting plane may magnify these inconsistencies at full draw. In general, the longer sighting plane will increase your precision, but may reduce your accuracy.

A sliding dovetail sight also allows for you to fine tune your bow for torque-tuning if you are interested in such. I try to fine tune my torque tune with my sight first, then set the aperture on my peep to match the scope housing.
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Old 02-19-2018, 07:31 PM
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Thanks guys I appreciate the info.
I think the first thing I need is a good sight then a stabilizer then selling a bow or 2 would be a good thing. I just hate parting with them, they are such damn good units
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Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck
I wasn't thinking far enough ahead for an outcome, I was ranting. By definition, a rant doesn't imply much forethought.....
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Old 02-19-2018, 10:13 PM
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Does anyone have a spare lens and or scope I could borrow to try? It would come back in the same condition as when I got it. I just don't want to spend a bunch of money and then hope to sell on kijiji or elsewhere if I don't like it or it does not work for me.
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Only dead fish go with the flow. The rest use their brains in life.


Originally Posted by Twisted Canuck
I wasn't thinking far enough ahead for an outcome, I was ranting. By definition, a rant doesn't imply much forethought.....
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