Broadhead tuning OCD

[Kolt30]

cant seem to get the broadheads to tune any closer than 2-3 inches at 20 yards to the field tips. the flu-flu's with broad heads group right up with the field points tho.


The broadhead groups are real tight. probably under and inch. two inches max

is the 2-3 inches that big of a deal or am i just being OCD?

[338Bluff]

1. Go get your timing checked
2. Check your arrow spine
3. Why are you shooting broadheads on Flu Flu's? Goose Hunting?

I had a fair bit of trouble this year with fixed blades. In the end I switched to FMJ's and slowed my rig down a bit. Had the bow re-timed and then retuned the whole set up.

Or you could just move your sights. I do have broadhead OCD or Bowtunitis so I can't quit until everything is perfect.

[jack88]

Whats it look like at 30?
Whats your draw weight, arrow length and arrow spine?

[Kolt30]

Originally Posted by 338Bluff

1. Go get your timing checked
2. Check your arrow spine
3. Why are you shooting broadheads on Flu Flu's? Goose Hunting?

I had a fair bit of trouble this year with fixed blades. In the end I switched to FMJ's and slowed my rig down a bit. Had the bow re-timed and then retuned the whole set up.

Or you could just move your sights. I do have broadhead OCD or Bowtunitis so I can't quit until everything is perfect.

shooting Carbon express Mayhem 350's, shaft length is 28" (not including knock or broad head)

shooting 70lbs or just shy of it

broadheads are slick trick 100's (fixed)

Flu Flu's are for grouse

Where would one go to get timing checked in the ed area? can i just do this on my own by adjusting individual limbs 1/8 turn at a time?

[Kolt30]

havent tried at 30 yet ran outa sun light

[jack88]

What kind of bow?

[Kolt30]

rytera alien-x

[338Bluff]

Originally Posted by Kolt30

shooting Carbon express Mayhem 350's, shaft length is 28" (not including knock or broad head)

shooting 70lbs or just shy of it

broadheads are slick trick 100's (fixed)

Flu Flu's are for grouse

Where would one go to get timing checked in the ed area? can i just do this on my own by adjusting individual limbs 1/8 turn at a time?

Your arrows and broad heads are spot on for your poundage. Adjusting the individual limbs is only going to change your tiller. First thing to do is crank your limbs all the way down tight and then back them out evenly to your desired draw weight. This should be starting you at even tiller. I know we used to play with tiller in the old days (before we used release aids) but I have found that even tiller is usually best with the new equipment.

Go to any bow shop and have someone look at your cams when you are at full draw. They will be able to see if the timing is out. Once your timing is set have them re-check the center shot and nock point and then shoot it through paper. If you get a good tear I can almost assure you that slick tricks will have the same POI as your field points. If they don't, a very small tweak to your rest will get it there.

[Kolt30]

thanks Bluff!

[brendan's dad]

I know alot guys harp on broadhead tuning and walk back tuning, and they are proven methods.

I shoot 340's with 100 grain slick tricks. I change strings every year due to the amount I shoot so I don't worry too much about my timing.

For me, I ensure that my paper tuning and buerger hole alignment is absolutely perfect. Then when I broadhead test I don't change the rest position at all, like suggested for broadhead and walk back tuning.

To have my fp and bh hitting the same out to 60 yards, I adjust the poundage of the bow in 1/8 turns. There is a perfect poundage for your bow and arrow spine and once you find it you will be dead on.

It works for me.

[petew]

Those little screws on the rest are there for a reason. use them. If the groups get worse, go the other way and they will get better. Adjust 1 direction at a time. Center shot/bare shaft/paper tuning are just the first steps in complete tuning. Broadhead to Field point is the final step.
When both group together adjust the gang on the sight to the bull again.
Pete

[Salavee]

I'm certainly not an expert on bow/arrow tuning but I am under the impression that FOC dictates the optimum tip or broadhead weight that a given arrow will shoot properly, regardless of arrow length or velocity.
Is this consideration all that important ? I'm asking as I seldom see this mentioned under the topic of tuning.

[petew]

The old 15% FOC MAX guideline has been around since the days of wood only arrows, and it is not aplicable anymore with todays arrows and components.
Many of us are shooting up to and over 30% FOC. with todays new heavy points/BH weighing up to 300 grains.
This doesn't mean you can take a well tuned arrow / bow setup with a 100 gr point and switch to a 300gr point and expect it to be tuned. You will need a stiffer arrow, and you will need to tune for the new combination.

[Salavee]

Thanks for that Petew. Your explanation helps launch me into the 21st Century. I,m getting back in to Bowhunting and have to catch up on a lot of
the newer technologies.

[338Bluff]

I'm kinda with Brendansdad on not playing with the rest. It stands to reason that if you can put a perfect hole through paper then BH flight should not be and issue.

However, sometimes a tiny little tweak of the rest is all that is needed though. You can play with the poundage but I think you need to keep the tiller even. I used to tune the old round cams with about 1/16 in on the lower limb, but I don't bother anymore now that I shoot a release. A 28 inch 330 to 350 arrow with a 100 grain head will have an appropriate FOC and spine for the poundage you are shooting.

Maybe the poundage adjustments will help.

[petew]

It does stand to reason a perfect hole with a field point is all that is needed for shooting field points. Paper tuning is step 1 in the tuning process, To get that perfect hole on paper you move the rest, to get it with a broadhead you move it more. When a bow is fully tuned it shoots BH and FP to the same point of impact.
Paper can also be deceiving. Change the distance you are from the paper and see if you still have a perfect hole or if you just tuned for the frequency of oscilation where the arrow passes thru during the neutral plane. It might be interesting. Does your bow still shoot a perfect hole at 20 yards?
Pete

[338Bluff]

"Change the distance you are from the paper and see if you still have a perfect hole or if you just tuned for the frequency of oscilation where the arrow passes thru during the neutral plane. It might be interesting. Does your bow still shoot a perfect hole at 20 yards?"

Excellent point! I forgot about that. It can make quite a difference.

[Kolt30]

thanks for all the input guys!

clearly i still have alot to learn compaired to all you haha

[338Bluff]

Sometimes we are cooler on line.

I still recommend hitting up a pro shop. I can only tell you what worked for me.

Sometimes a blind squirrel can find a nut you know.... does not necessarily mean I'm right. Just maybe lucky.

[brendan's dad]

Originally Posted by petew

It does stand to reason a perfect hole with a field point is all that is needed for shooting field points. Paper tuning is step 1 in the tuning process, To get that perfect hole on paper you move the rest, to get it with a broadhead you move it more. When a bow is fully tuned it shoots BH and FP to the same point of impact.
Paper can also be deceiving. Change the distance you are from the paper and see if you still have a perfect hole or if you just tuned for the frequency of oscilation where the arrow passes thru during the neutral plane. It might be interesting. Does your bow still shoot a perfect hole at 20 yards?
Pete

Never did the paper tune at 20 yards but I always bare shaft at 20 and it is dead on with the FP..... and BH.

The guy sounded frustrated and couldn't get closer than 3" with broadhead tuning; I assumed he was moving the rest because he said he was broadhead tuning; probably moved it in every direction possible. Just offered a method that has worked for me with my setup using slick tricks. I'm hitting dead on out to 60 yards so I must have got lucky with my paper tuning.

[338Bluff]

Originally Posted by brendan's dad

Never did the paper tune at 20 yards but I always bare shaft at 20 and it is dead on with the FP..... and BH.

The guy sounded frustrated and couldn't get closer than 3" with broadhead tuning; I assumed he was moving the rest because he said he was broadhead tuning; probably moved it in every direction possible. Just offered a method that has worked for me with my setup using slick tricks. I'm hitting dead on out to 60 yards so I must have got lucky with my paper tuning.

Hopefully, the rest is not moved in all directions. It is usually recommended to move the rest towards the POI of the field points in very small increments (from where the broad heads strike) I hate to do it when my bow is shooting perfect holes, but it seems to be the only way. Only move one direction or increment at a time. If you are high and left with your broadheads, only move right in small increments. Do not move low and right in the same adjustment. Sometimes the tiny side to side gets rid of the other variation. I agree with you that little poundage adjustments may help find the sweet spot as well, but have not had the same experience with my equipment.

I should mention that I also use a QAD drop away rest with micro adjustments. The suggestions I'm making might not be so easy with something like a whisker biscuit.

[abbgdr]

Brendan's dad has it right,, bare shaft tuning is critical as it tunes the arrow to the bow. Moving the rest will compensate for arrows that aren't perfectly tuned to your bow,, but once the bow is perfectly tuned as he describes then tuning the arrow to the bow can be done by adjusting the draw weight or adjusting the point weight. Theres lots of ways to "cheat" your tune besides moving the rest, you could put huge fetching on your arrows to stiffen your spine and compensate for a less than ideal release etc, etc. The bottom line is you can have a perfectly tuned bow but it won't mean a thing if your arrows aren't perfectly tuned to your bow. Get them both tuned and your broad heads won't be an issue.

[338Bluff]

Originally Posted by abbgdr

Brendan's dad has it right,, bare shaft tuning is critical as it tunes the arrow to the bow. Moving the rest will compensate for arrows that aren't perfectly tuned to your bow,, but once the bow is perfectly tuned as he describes then tuning the arrow to the bow can be done by adjusting the draw weight or adjusting the point weight. Theres lots of ways to "cheat" your tune besides moving the rest, you could put huge fetching on your arrows to stiffen your spine and compensate for a less than ideal release etc, etc. The bottom line is you can have a perfectly tuned bow but it won't mean a thing if your arrows aren't perfectly tuned to your bow. Get them both tuned and your broad heads won't be an issue.

Learned something.

Just finished reading up on it to get a better understanding on bare shaft tuning. Looks to simplify what I have been doing for years. Any reason why most of the articles seem to suggest it for finger shooting but not for release aids.

Nice answer. Thanks

[Kolt30]

at what distances are you guys shaft tuning 20, 30, 40?

and do you paper tune or shaft tune first?