lineing up broadheads

[35 whelen]

Hi whats the best way to get your broadheads to line up with flechings ,how to turn inserts do you heat up and then turn, any input would be great thanks.

[petew]

Absolutely not necessary.

[35 whelen]

i have read some about doing this Does it not matter im useing montec g5s fixed blades thanks

[petew]

It's archery, not the Mars space mission. Screw on the heads and enjoy the sport. If it was necessary could you shoot a 2 blade or 4 blade with 3 fletch? or a 3 blade with 4 fletch? If you realy think it is necessary get some plastic point locks and tighten the BH untill they line up, then go do some test shooting with some lined up and some not . Remember by indexing the broadhead to the arrow it will be only indexed for that particular broadhead. Every thread starts at a diferent place on the BH shank.
It certainly won't hurt to index the BH to the fletch, but it is totaly unnecessary. This myth had been busted many times using a Hooter Shooter.
Pete

[35 whelen]

Thanks for the info thats what i was looking for

[HIBACKPACKER]

As long as they spin true your good to go. If they wobble then you need to heat and rotate them. If your in Calgary or close to I will help you out.

[Redneck Renagade]

If your broadheads wobble make a jig with a piece of 2x4 and on each end take two nails and nail them in an X then put your arrow on it and slowly turn it to see where the high point is. When you find your high point put the tip on the 2x4 apply a little pressure and retest. Keep doing this untill the wobble is completely removed.

[ReayMan]

Originally Posted by 35 whelen

Hi whats the best way to get your broadheads to line up with flechings ,how to turn inserts do you heat up and then turn, any input would be great thanks.

Put BH on and then fletch arrow!!!

[HIBACKPACKER]

Depending on who puts the arrows together it's not always in the shafts. Carbon arrows are good "straight" or their broken. Aluminum arrows are not as tough as carbon arrows. With the new carbon arrows and the way they are crossed wrapped, there is not much chance of the splinters of old. Not everyone can afford the carbon arrows. It all comes down to how careful the inserts are installed in Carbon and or Aluminum. Now after all is said and done aluminum arrows can wobble after hitting brush and become wobbly and that's a fact! If you shot at game and miss, always check the shaft by spinning it in you hand. Carbon will shoot true until you break them. Even after arrows are set up, I've had broad heads that would not spin true right out of a brand new package, every component has to be check and recheck before heading into the field. Just the way I used to set up for success. And, there is more then one way to get it to the table.

[NayNay]

Invest in a arrow spinner and a G5 A.S.D. Best $100 you can spend. Fleching being lined up with broadhead blades won't change anything, as said before it's a myth.

[Mike_W]

It is a myth but I like my arrows to "look organized" too so if you so desire put your broad head on tight then heat your insert and spin your broadhead until it lines up with the fletching. Again this is purely cosmetic but I shoot cock feather up and I like my broadheads to match or be excactly opposite.....its just something that bugs be when sitting on stand if they arent lined up ...Call it OCD lol.
I have never actually had to heat up my insert I usually just get lucky and try a few different brodhead/arrow combos until I get a couple that line up.

Cheers,
Mike

[shorthair ptr.]

Wether it is BS or not I have lined my three blade heads up for over 20yrs. Deffinately spin test and adjust as needed. Depending on what kind of glue is used to install the inserts, you may not be able to turn them. DO NOT put open flame to carbon shafts!! I always use a glue that will turn with some heat, I use a blow dryer to add the heat.

[338Bluff]

Originally Posted by shorthair ptr.

Wether it is BS or not I have lined my three blade heads up for over 20yrs. Deffinately spin test and adjust as needed. Depending on what kind of glue is used to install the inserts, you may not be able to turn them. DO NOT put open flame to carbon shafts!! I always use a glue that will turn with some heat, I use a blow dryer to add the heat.

X2

Most of the myth busting may have been done at 20 yards.

I tune at 40.

Maybe it is not so much alignment with vanes as it is having the blades in the same orientation when the arrow is nocked and sitting on the rest. If your bow is totally tuned to punch bullet holes through paper, shoot a couple of broadheads (spun true and aligned) at 40 yards and then shoot a couple of field points. Play around with your poundage to see where the sweet spot is. Once you get there you can then move your sites and you will be gold.

If that doesn't work you may have to make a very small adjustment to your rest.

You can align the vanes on previously glued heads by using o rings from the orthodontist's office or wrap a little floss around the ferrule. Start a little floss on the threads, screw it down to the last couple of turns and make several wraps at the base of the ferrule. Turn the head down tight until it lines up the blades, trim very short and singe off excess with a match.

I just finished up 3 days of frustration with my montecs but I got them flying like darts to 50 yards and in the same group as my field points.

[Theganch]

Not necessary !!?.. Really?Gotta love it!. Maybe if your happy shooting a pie plate at 20 yards!. Your arrows should be all the same!. The fletch,Broadhead and mocks should all line up. Cock feather down/up same as the blade (to the cock feather)... Who ever says it doesn't make a difference... Well?haha!! If your arrows are all the same, also without a wabble, you should be pounding tacks at 50yards!... With ether of your arrows!. Saying just screw them on and go is ridiculous . Save yourself a ton of trouble and frustrations later on... Not to mention wounded and lost game... We owe it to the animals to put in the extra effort to be shooting our equipment the best we can!... Shooting sports is about consistency. Do what these guys are saying about tuning your bow for broadheads, lots of good advice... But before that.... Line them up!.

[jack88]

Originally Posted by Theganch

Not necessary !!?.. Really?Gotta love it!. Maybe if your happy shooting a pie plate at 20 yards!. Your arrows should be all the same!. The fletch,Broadhead and mocks should all line up. Cock feather down/up same as the blade (to the cock feather)... Who ever says it doesn't make a difference... Well?haha!! If your arrows are all the same, also without a wabble, you should be pounding tacks at 50yards!... With ether of your arrows!. Saying just screw them on and go is ridiculous . Save yourself a ton of trouble and frustrations later on... Not to mention wounded and lost game... We owe it to the animals to put in the extra effort to be shooting our equipment the best we can!... Shooting sports is about consistency. Do what these guys are saying about tuning your bow for broadheads, lots of good advice... But before that.... Line them up!.

Ya, none of this. Im shooting montecs and it doesn't matter which way they point. Having your bow and rest tuned is way more important than lining up vanes and blades.
Put a 3 degree right helical with some blazers vanes. I've had some insane flight from arrows thinking it was the tuning of the bow, the vanes/blades not lining up, etc etc. In the end it was a crappy fletching job that caused stress.

[CLB]

Originally Posted by Theganch

Not necessary !!?.. Really?Gotta love it!. Maybe if your happy shooting a pie plate at 20 yards!. Your arrows should be all the same!. The fletch,Broadhead and mocks should all line up. Cock feather down/up same as the blade (to the cock feather)... Who ever says it doesn't make a difference... Well?haha!! If your arrows are all the same, also without a wabble, you should be pounding tacks at 50yards!... With ether of your arrows!. Saying just screw them on and go is ridiculous . Save yourself a ton of trouble and frustrations later on... Not to mention wounded and lost game... We owe it to the animals to put in the extra effort to be shooting our equipment the best we can!... Shooting sports is about consistency. Do what these guys are saying about tuning your bow for broadheads, lots of good advice... But before that.... Line them up!.

Absolutley not necessary to line you fletching up with you blades on the broadhead and like mentioned depending on what you shoot for broadheads it can be impossible. Make sure they spin true, your bow is tuned and you are good to go, and not just at 20 yards.

[NayNay]

Originally Posted by CLB

Absolutley not necessary to line you fletching up with you blades on the broadhead and like mentioned depending on what you shoot for broadheads it can be impossible. Make sure they spin true, your bow is tuned and you are good to go, and not just at 20 yards.

x2

[Theganch]

Lol, ok... Good luck!!!

[Couleestalker]

Originally Posted by Theganch

Lol, ok... Good luck!!!

I never line up my broad heads with fletching. I shoot 4in fletching with 100gr. 3 balde muszzy (original not mx-3) and am capable of shoting 2 inch groups at 50 yards.

[Arrowhead]

As stated many times already, it's not necessary to line up broad heads with fletching. Purely aesthetic. Consider that many, if not most arrows spin in flight due to fletching offset or some amount of helical, so the fletching will not follow the path of the broadhead blade to begin with.

Just make sure the broadhead spins true to the shaft without wobble. Once in a while you'll find that even a brand new broadhead will not spin true.

[338Bluff]

Wow. Pretty polar opposites on the topic. I will re-state it again. It is not so much that you line vane with blade.

However, it may be advised to make sure your blade orientation is the same on every arrow with respect to the nock (as in once the arrow is nocked to the string). The easiest way to do this may be to simply turn the nock or if you are fussy line them up with vanes. In either case they must spin true.

The whole blade alignment thing (wrt nock point) was attributed to a Randy Ulmer article in Bowhunting or Bowhunter. Recall reading it and have seen reference to it since on the internet.

This is kind of in the minutiae of broadhead tuning. Seems to work. I shoot all of my hunting shafts and mark them with a felt pen. Blade orientation tightens groups.

[shorthair ptr.]

Hey, do us all a favour and try it both ways. Spin test all the arrows with broadheads and line some blades up with the fletch. Take a couple arrows and just spin the BH's on, see what happens and let us all know how you make out.
Just a repeat, but I am still going to line my blades up and make every arrow as close to identical as possible. Thats archery, being consistant.

[Cal]

I agree that lining up BH's is a myth, that being said I've heard a fairly sound argument for running 2 blade heads oriented "Flat" rather than "Vertical". I might have even read it on Petw's page come to think of it.

The idea was that the shooter is far more likely to make a mistake in form that will kick the arrow to the side rather than up or down. With the broadhead "flat" the potential for any serious planing would be minimised. The writer sugested using nylon washers to get the blades to line up properly. With a three blade I cant see it making a difference though.