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  #31  
Old 09-17-2018, 04:41 PM
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EZM EZM is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shorty View Post
I always use shoe polish as a release agent and have never had an issue. Tape everything off that you don't want bedding agent on and use plasticine to fill holes and the magazine and trigger slots. Just clean up with a dremel and done.
My rifles shoot very well to a mile and beyond
I saw a great video of a guy bedding an action - the clear shoe polish thing was applied to the action using a brush to get a nice thin layer in there - seems like a good idea to me.

The clay thing was kind of neat too - not just to fill holes but the guy also applied a pinch in the barrel channel to ensure the barrel was clear (free floated).

I think if someone is patient and takes the time to prep the stock a decent bedding job should be a fun/easy project.

One thing he did mention - which is something I would have missed is to gauge/measure the recoil lug to make sure it wasn't wider at the bottom compared to the top (which would cause it to become trapped) in the bedding compound (if you bed up and around the recoil lug instead of just up to it I guess.
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  #32  
Old 09-17-2018, 05:56 PM
260 Rem 260 Rem is offline
 
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It is common to bed the recoil lug into the pocket. If the lug is square it can be tough to remove the action which is remedied by applying a strip of tape to the sides and bottom of the lug ...doubled up on the bottom...and a single layer on the front of the lug. Of course, the backside of the lug is covered with release agent.
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  #33  
Old 09-18-2018, 10:53 AM
303carbine 303carbine is offline
 
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Originally Posted by EZM View Post
Sorry - a little confused here, isn't the thought to use release agent between the barrelled action and the bedded stock?. If you are putting Saran wrap between your wood and bedding won't your bedding be independent of the stock?

If you end up with 3 pieces - the barrelled action, the bedding, and the stock - is that the intent?


I meant to say, put the plastic between the metal and putty, definitely don't want to glue the wood to the metal.
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  #34  
Old 09-18-2018, 01:06 PM
260 Rem 260 Rem is offline
 
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Originally Posted by 303carbine View Post
I meant to say, put the plastic between the metal and putty, definitely don't want to glue the wood to the metal.
The risk of gluing the action to the stock adds a bit of nervous anticipation to the whole equation. I would never be capable of leaving the job alone for 8 hours so I set up a little heater to keep the bedded action at about 35C which cures the epoxy hard enough to remove in about 2 hours.
I have never stuck one (OK maybe one minor issue). I have read that if there is a bit of a problem, letting it freeze solid in the deep freeze will shrink the steel enough to make the break-out easier?
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  #35  
Old 09-18-2018, 06:00 PM
303carbine 303carbine is offline
 
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Originally Posted by 260 Rem View Post
The risk of gluing the action to the stock adds a bit of nervous anticipation to the whole equation. I would never be capable of leaving the job alone for 8 hours so I set up a little heater to keep the bedded action at about 35C which cures the epoxy hard enough to remove in about 2 hours.
I have never stuck one (OK maybe one minor issue). I have read that if there is a bit of a problem, letting it freeze solid in the deep freeze will shrink the steel enough to make the break-out easier?


The JB Weld (Waterweld version) I use sets up in 25 min.
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