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02-09-2014, 11:07 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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collet die marks??
So far i'm really impressed with the function of the lee collet die, however i'm just wondering if there is anyway to prevent the collet from leaving marks on my necks? Suuuuuper annoying on my Lapua brass! At first I thought I was applying too much pressure on the handle, but when I reduce pressure to the point of leaving no marks, it's not enough pressure to re-size. Is there anyway around this?(other than outside neck turning) or is it just one of the spoils of war?
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02-09-2014, 11:14 PM
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Cut s strip of Scotch -Brite and put in a jag ,
Chuck it up in a drill and buff the volley
Works great o Thad ones I did. ![Smile](images/smilies/smile.gif)
Cat
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Anytime I figure I've got this long range thing figured out, I just strap into the sling and irons and remind myself that I don't!
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02-09-2014, 11:20 PM
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You mean buff the inside of the collet?
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02-09-2014, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stvnbrg
You mean buff the inside of the collet?
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yup!
Squeeze the collet fingers closed and run it back and forth.it's soft enough that it won't destroy the collet
Cat
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Anytime I figure I've got this long range thing figured out, I just strap into the sling and irons and remind myself that I don't!
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02-09-2014, 11:39 PM
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ok right on. Ill try buffing it with scotch brite! thanks for the tip!
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02-09-2014, 11:59 PM
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Don't use Lee.
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02-10-2014, 12:01 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevGuy
Don't use Lee.
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What do you use?
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02-10-2014, 05:44 AM
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Polish the collet a bit and you'll be fine. ![Smile](images/smilies/smile.gif)
Cat
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Anytime I figure I've got this long range thing figured out, I just strap into the sling and irons and remind myself that I don't!
Last edited by catnthehat; 02-10-2014 at 05:54 AM.
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02-10-2014, 08:58 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2012
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Here is a link that someone had posted earlier, something I found handy. Especially because I'm not intimately familiar with how dies are constructed.
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/...e-collet-dies/
I just bought some on the weekend (which were oddly enough hard to find...nobody seems to carry the lee stuff - especially the smaller shops). I buffed up the inside of the fingers and didn't have any issues with them leaving marks on the outside of the necks.
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02-10-2014, 09:11 AM
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You think 0000 steel wool is too coarse for the job?
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02-10-2014, 09:33 AM
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Another thing you could do is take a thou off of the mandrel then use less pressure.
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02-10-2014, 10:52 AM
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I agree that a little cleanup and finishing work is required on most new tooling.
I suspect that the 'marks' on your necks are caused by unevenly compressed brass under the gaps in the collet. The procedure I use is to first size the case neck (you should be able to feel the brass give slightly during the sizing operation) then lower the ram slightly and rotate the case so the collet gap is over a portion of the neck previously compressed, then raise the ram to compress the collet gap marks on the neck (you will not feel the brass give during compression like you should in the first step). This double stroking procedure takes very little additional effort or time but IMHO does result in a much better job.
Note that if you are using an 'overcenter or cam action press' like a Rock Chucker the die should be adjusted down far enough that the press does not go 'overcenter' at the top of the stroke.
IIRC these are the procedures recommended by LEE? As always, 'when all else fails, read the instructions', or RTFM.
YMMV
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02-10-2014, 11:06 AM
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What is the concern with the marks? They go away after you pull the trigger....
LC
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02-10-2014, 11:10 AM
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Good post Qwert. Even though I do not have these gap marks with any 3 of my collet dies, this double stroking procedure is exactly how I work my dies. In fact I do milarly whhen seating match ammo. Partially seat, spin case a half turn, finish seating. This yields very little runout, if any at all.
Off topic: I think that I know what RTFM means but can't repeat it. What does YMMV mean?
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02-10-2014, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gitrdun
Off topic: What does YMMV mean?
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Your Mileage May Vary.
I also use the partial stroke, turn case and complete procedure for most of my resizing and seating operations. I have no proof but suspect that it yields better results and much fewer stuck cases. It just seems to feel better.
YMMV
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02-10-2014, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gitrdun
Off topic: I think that I know what RTFM means but can't repeat it. What does YMMV mean?
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"your mileage may vary" ![Medium Smiley 035](images/smilies/medium-smiley-035.gif)
Cat
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Anytime I figure I've got this long range thing figured out, I just strap into the sling and irons and remind myself that I don't!
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02-10-2014, 12:08 PM
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How much are you rotating your cases? The instructions say 180 degrees but to me itseems tthe collet would then be closing on the same spots. 90 degrees seems to make more sense to me, howmuch are you rotating? Also, about the steel wool, 0000 too coarse for the job?
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02-10-2014, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stvnbrg
How much are you rotating your cases? The instructions say 180 degrees but to me itseems tthe collet would then be closing on the same spots. 90 degrees seems to make more sense to me, howmuch are you rotating? Also, about the steel wool, 0000 too coarse for the job?
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I cannot remember if the collets have 3 or 4 segments, I suspect that (since Lee is all about efficiency of manufacture) most will be 4 segment but smaller sizes may be 3 segment. YMMV. The key is to rotate enough to cover and compress the marks, what ever it takes.
Don't over-think the grade of abrasive, most of us just use whatever is handy and like to keep a collection of old scraps of fine sandpaper, steel wool (do not use on stainless steel), Scotchbrite pads and worn or broken sharpening stones and use whatever seems appropriate and easiest depending on the task required. Waterproof sandpaper is nice to use with water when really smooth surface is desired. A cheap set of needle files is also very handy as they will fit in odd shaped spaces, and are often wrapped with abrasive paper. Sometimes a little valve grinding compound is best. Cambodian Tire often has Dremel type tools sets on sale, (just always remember that the number 1 cause of firearm malfunction is "an owner with a Dremel". Always clean well and re-lube after any abrasive use.
Usually we are just trying to remove tooling burrs or marks and is often referred to as 'de-horning'. Tools that have had their sharp edges removed are a lot easier to work with and more comfortable in our hands.
YMMV
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02-10-2014, 03:22 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwert
Don't over-think
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LOL
This, like most other reloaders, is my Achilles heel!
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02-11-2014, 10:18 PM
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so I buffed the inside of the collet, and rotated case once or several times during resizing, and still, marks! Its not the end of the world i suppose, its just not the mark of perfection. Would the smaller caliber play in? (.223) Does anyone with a smaller caliber have/not have this problem? I dont know, probly doesnt really matter.
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