Finishing the roading bench

Yoshewa · #1 01-13-2014, 09:55 AM

Built my reloading bench, and now looking for opinions on what type of finish to put on top of the bench. The top is built from good one side spruce and it is now just clear wood.

Is there any reason to use oil based stain vs water based, or tongue oil, or thick clear coat, and what works best dark color or light color?

Just want to make sure nothing reacts to powder that I will inevitably spill, and I'd like to never have to refinish (dreamer I know), but something durable would be nice. Able to sustain cleaning solvents as well, as I will be servicing my rifles on the same bench.

Thanks in advance.

dgitz · #2 01-13-2014, 10:28 AM

Type of stain shouldn't matter if you decide to clear coat. And once it dries anything you put on shouldn't react with powder. Personally I would leave mine plain and let the years of reloading and cleaning finish it. Nothing like looking at an old worn bench and imagining all the experience that's been gained there.

Silverado04 · #3 01-13-2014, 11:48 AM

Just a couple of coats of polyurethane for mine, does the trick!

If you do want to stain it as well, look at Minwax's PolyShades. I like the results I got with it.

CaberTosser · #4 01-13-2014, 11:55 AM

You could also paint if you want an even finish. For something really durable there are actual 2-part epoxy finishes available. I did the Rustoleum garage floor epoxy in my mechanical & storage room and after laying down the sprinkles (when wet so they stick) I put on a layer of clear coat from the same product line. For chemical resistance it would be hard to beat, if a little spendy.

http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...clear-coating/

SmokinJoe · #5 01-13-2014, 12:06 PM

I build furniture in off season for a living, stain with what ever you want, and put a few coats of Pollycrylic on, make sure to sand with about an 800 grit sand paper in between coats, it does not take a bunch of sanding just about on back and forth over each part, the idea is to smooth over dust spots. I built a bench for a guy out of spruce, 2x4, and laminated them side by side like a butcher block, then planed them flat, and sanded the snot out of it, I put 5 coats of Pollycrylic on that bench because s/p/f is fairly soft and high in moisture , and he reloads on it. Nice smooth bench is easy to clean.

32-40win · #6 01-13-2014, 12:46 PM

Nice smooth surface that is easy to wipe off, and a light colour that is easy to see spilled stuff like flake powder on, is nice. I have one that is topped with arborite and one that is sanded Varathane. Lighting is important, if you can rig up a telescoping/folding arm light over your bench, it is worth every penny.

SkytopBrewster · #7 01-13-2014, 01:47 PM

I put thin carpet on my benches, keeps things from rolling away on you and things getting marred but you have to vacuum off, not the answer for everyone but it works for me.

Mulestalker · #8 01-13-2014, 04:43 PM

What I did was top all my garage benches and reloading bench with click together laminate.

Found 6 boxes at a local store that they wanted to clear out, nice thick stuff,built a raised edge and snapped in the laminate.

Very slick to clean and if you ever damage a piece just pop it out and replace!

Yoshewa · #9 01-13-2014, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mulestalker

What I did was top all my garage benches and reloading bench with click together laminate.

Found 6 boxes at a local store that they wanted to clear out, nice thick stuff,built a raised edge and snapped in the laminate.

Very slick to clean and if you ever damage a piece just pop it out and replace!

Wish i would have thought of that before paying for g1s plywood. Oh well....lol

sounds like leaving it light colored and a durable clear coat is the way to go. Just came back from Canadian tire, and found a product named "Armour Coat" it is intended for marine hull applications, but resists gasoline, acids and alkaline. Cleans with paint thinner so it must be oil based. Anyone used or heard of it?

CNP · #10 01-13-2014, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yoshewa

Wish i would have thought of that before paying for g1s plywood. Oh well....lol

sounds like leaving it light colored and a durable clear coat is the way to go. Just came back from Canadian tire, and found a product named "Armour Coat" it is intended for marine hull applications, but resists gasoline, acids and alkaline. Cleans with paint thinner so it must be oil based. Anyone used or heard of it?

I would not use oil based stuff like you are proposing. Use a latex polyurethane (water based). It is still as hard as nails, without the smell and cleanup associated with oil based finishes. You can have it come up like a plate of glass if you prep the surface right. Sand smooth......not necessary to go more than 180 grit. A couple coats of poly, sand with 300, another coat, sand with 300, another coat, sand with 300, another coat. You can put on two or three of the latex poly in one day (fast dry).