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  #61  
Old 08-19-2019, 10:48 PM
Predatorhunter Predatorhunter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ram crazy View Post
I still own my first rifle, .243 win Winchester model 670a that rifle is a tack driver. I've used it on bear, deer, pronghorn, and elk. You can't go wrong with a .243win
Still one of my favorite calibers today. 30 years later. You can use it for just about anything here in Alberta. In fact, one of my favorite coyote rounds.
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  #62  
Old 08-20-2019, 11:57 AM
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abhunter8 abhunter8 is offline
 
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Location: Drayton Valley, AB
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I went through this same dilemma a few years back. I had a Stevens model 100 .243 that my daughter and son both shot well, was very accurate but the stock and length of pull was too long. I decided to try something a little bigger, so I sold the .243 and tried the 7mm-08. Too much recoil, they did not like. Tried a 25-06, too much recoil they didn't like so I bought a 6.5x55 and that seemed to fit the bill. The Son and wife both still shoot the 6.5x55.
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  #63  
Old 08-20-2019, 09:48 PM
Gifted Intuitive Gifted Intuitive is offline
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Default Cartridges that develop Marksmanship

Please review the equipment list. The list shows the equipment used by athletes who fire thousands of rounds to be at the top of their game.


https://competitions.nra.org/media/7...s-bulletin.pdf
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  #64  
Old 08-21-2019, 06:56 AM
dgl1948 dgl1948 is offline
 
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250/3000 would be the best. To bad some of the firearms companies would not chamber it in rifles for smaller framed people.
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  #65  
Old 08-21-2019, 08:38 AM
kayaker kayaker is offline
 
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If my children want to start hunting I will be more focused on a rifle that fits them and that they can handle and shoot well. I like the .308, and I reload. so H4895 and reduced loads are very easy to do. Can work from mild .30-30 level velocities on up.

A lot of youth sized rifles have 20" barrels so i don't see the point of large cased cartridges like a .25-06 or .270 in a short barrel rifle, or both will work just fine.

.243 is the benchmark for most. I would happily start them off with that, 7mm-08, .30-30, .250 or .257R, one of the many non-magnum 6.5's, .308 etc. tailor loads to their comfort level.
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  #66  
Old 08-21-2019, 04:03 PM
Steelhorse Cowboy Steelhorse Cowboy is offline
 
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After learning with the 22 my old man graduated me to the 308 Norma Mag. at 12 yr old.
45 years later i still use it.
but I did inherit his Bruno 7x57

alot easier on the shoulder
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  #67  
Old 08-23-2019, 06:26 PM
metallurgynerd metallurgynerd is offline
 
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Location: Okotoks, AB
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The caliber question has been beat to death I suppose, but I thought I'd mention a few other considerations. Fit has been mentioned, but I'd add that you'll want to make sure both the length of pull and the stock height are good. You may need a slip-on cheek pad to get their eye up to a comfortable position while keeping their cheek tight to the stock. A good recoil pad is always wise. While living in the US I became an NRA-certified shooting instructor and volunteered my time working with the Boy Scouts teaching youth to shoot. Helping new shooters avoid developing a flinch with centerfire rifles is important if you want them to actually hit what they aim at and not be afraid of the gun. As counter-intuitive as it may seem, get them as heavy a rifle as you think they can manage to lug around on a hunt. A Mauser-type action (or other action with lots of steel) in a moderate caliber with a cut-down wood or laminate stock and heavy-ish scope will really help reduce felt recoil and would be a better choice than many of the light-weight synthetic offerings out there. I have a fairly light .243 Sako with no recoil pad and a peep sight and it's noticeably more punishing to shoot than my .30-06 Mauser or even my synthetic .270 with a good recoil pad and heavy scope. Likewise avoid short carbine length barrels that may have more muzzle blast. I would avoid starting them off shooting from a bench rest unless you have a lead sled or other weighted rest to absorb most of the recoil. Let them get used to the noise (even with hearing protection, which is a must) before they have to deal with the full recoil. Shooting from a standing or kneeling position is also a good option at first because more of your body can absorb the recoil compared to shooting from a sandbag on a bench, making everything less violent in general. It's also closer to what you'll probably do on a hunt. Don't worry if they can't hit squat from standing, just let them get used to the thing. At that point you can consider moving them to a bench with ordinary shooting bags, or a tripod, or whatever you plan to use hunting, and start dialing in aiming, breathing, trigger pull, etc. Lastly, make sure the rifle has a good trigger that breaks cleanly. A light pull but of course not too light. If the trigger pull is long, or gritty, or creepy or anything other than a clean break after a light to moderate pull there's a bigger chance of developing a flinch because they'll start to anticipate the point when it goes off. With the Accu-trigger (and all the knockoffs), and aftermarket triggers, there's not much excuse for crappy rifle triggers these days regardless of your budget, unless it's some old military relic with no aftermarket support. I always try to teach new shooters to slowly squeeze and let the shot surprise you every time. That's much more likely to happen with a clean breaking trigger.

Last edited by metallurgynerd; 08-23-2019 at 06:31 PM.
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