Anchor points - what are yours?

[BigRackLover]

For my compound mine used to be:

Kisser button in corner of mouth
string on tip of nose
lip on arrow/fletching
finger stretched out along jaw bone

Discovered using my knuckle between my jaw bone and skull tonight at the range.

What do you use? Be specific please. Whats worked for you and what hasn't.

[Packrat]

I use a peep, and a release now.

Anchor point - It's hard to explain in words, but I will try...

At full draw, I drop my thumb down towards my little finger (but it doesn't actually touch it) the soft part of my hand between the thumb and index finger, locks behind my jaw. I use a fletchhunter release on a rope. (No torque to the string) The trigger is tripped with my index finger Just like shooting a rifle.

When I shot fingers - I use the index finger on my tooth, and the string is tight to the side of my nose, eye is on the right side of the string, and the left side of bow, looking at a pin. No peep, Very solid anchor point.

With fingers my draw length was 31 inches. With release and slight bend at the elbow to prevent torquing the bow, 29". No string loop on the string. I use cushion buttons.

I use to shoot with a locked forearm. But found with the speed of the newer bows. that it was really easy to torgue the bow. I also (Very important with any bow and shooting style) have a relaxed grip, and alway's use a sling. Let the bow fall naturally, beleave it or not, your brain will be able to grab and torgue the bow, faster than any bow, ever built. The arrow should be long gone and the bow should fall forward (with stabilzer) or backwards (without) If balanced properly, it should jump out of you hand when the cam hits bottom. Then you can grab it the sling should be loose, but only enough to keep you from dropping the bow. (I have had to catch bows when I didn't have a sling on) I had to counter balance my bow with an offset stabilzer to keep the bow straight when I had a side mount quiver on it. It is amazing how sensitive a bow is to torgue.
The other criticle factor, is to always have follow throgh when you release. The release hand/arm should move backwards when the trigger is tripped. Form is very important, no matter your shooting style.

Ahh.... sorry about that, got a little of track there.

Keep trying different things until you find a comfortable position for you. What works for one may not work for someone else.

Oh and one more thing, the faster your arrow, the more sensitve it will be to movement when released. If your 300+ per second, you need to be relaxed and steady or you could miss the target at 20 yards.

[russ]

BRL - I used to use what you're using. But with the shorter axle to axle bows the string to the tip of the nose is out. The angle is too acute to keep it and to get it my draw length would be a 1/2 - 3/4" too long. Which in turn knocks my alignment out of whack and once my alignment is out of whack then it's way easier to screw up shots. (many people just don't appreciate just how easy!)

[BigRackLover]

Originally Posted by russ

BRL - I used to use what you're using. But with the shorter axle to axle bows the string to the tip of the nose is out. The angle is too acute to keep it and to get it my draw length would be a 1/2 - 3/4" too long. Which in turn knocks my alignment out of whack and once my alignment is out of whack then it's way easier to screw up shots. (many people just don't appreciate just how easy!)

I still have my bow from 8 years ago, so its not a parallel limb bow. It was frustrating at the range yesterday paper tuning as 2 others shot my bow and had 3 bullet holes in the paper, however I could not consistently get one. They really tried to convince me to remove my kisser button, but it feels really really weird without it.

I'm using a release, anchor sight and a D-loop

[russ]

instead of a traditional kisser button maybe give a nock cushion a try.

[Knownonscents]

KNuckle right under my ear and wedges behind my jawbone. I t just feels right.....everytime