Building this bunk: need advice on type of finish

Spidey · #1 02-05-2011, 10:05 AM

Our oldest daughter has a smallish footprint for a bedroom but has a 14ft vaulted ceiling, so I decided to build her a queen bunk like this (minus the bottom portion) to open up some space underneath for a desk and futon. I'll be using rough fir for the timber and rough cedar for the rest.

I've done quite a bit of woodowork but have never had much luck with getting a good finish on furniture I've built. I'd like to try and replicate the finish in the photo as much as possible. Other than Sikkens Log Cabin stain, can anyone recommend a less toxic interior finish? I've tried varathane water based stains and minwax in the past. I prefer the minwax but thought there's got to be better out there. I've never tried paste or wax finishes before.

What would you recommend?

7 REM MAG · #2 02-05-2011, 10:12 AM

you could do a coat of tung oil, like what people finish gun stocks with, its food safe and would give you the darker finish

pikergolf · #3 02-05-2011, 10:36 AM

Because of illness I use water base exclusively. Lee Valey and I'm sure many others have water base dyes. The only problem with them is that you cannot brush water base over them because they will lift, Manufactures recommend a coat of shelac before top coat of water base finish. The only way around this is if you spray the water base finish. If you do a lot of wood work I would definanty look at a HVLP spray system for finishing, does a great job with the water base stuff. My unit is a three stage, made by Fiji, I like it a lot. If you search wood finishing sites you will see them talking about a whole selection of water base stuff. As the oil base slowly gets pushed out people will turn to water base and have great resuts! I was told that spraying water base was going to be very dificult, but because I had never sprayed oil base I had nothing to compare it to, and after a 1hr. play around session goy just the finish I wanted on my vanity. Then used the sprayer to paint the door and trim, agian extremly happy. Both the tung oil and wax will off gas toxins for a period of time after you apply them, and both need to be reapplied occasionally.

Redfrog · #4 02-05-2011, 10:43 AM

I can't help with the finish, but I've worked enough with rough fir and cedar to know I wouldn't use it for kids furniture, unless it was covered with fiberglass resin. Slivers, slivers, slivers.

Spidey · #5 02-05-2011, 11:36 AM

I like the idea of Tung oil, but I heard that it isn't recommended for people with tree nut allergies (which, it seems, is like a third of my kid's friends...) I used Tung oil on butcher block counters in our previous house with good results.

I plan on getting most of the "rough" out with the belt sander but I like the textured look of "not smooth" wood (gives more of a rustic appearance). My hope is that whatever finish I use will be enough of a coating to prevent slivers. Here's the website that inspired me to build the bunk bed with the lengths of fir timber I have lying around.
http://www.woodlandcreekfurniture.co...nkname=Bedroom

Yeah, I think I'll pay a visit to Lee Valley when I'm in town next (I already ordered the fastening hardware from them online.) I do have a decent gravity sprayer set that I may play around with.

Thanks for the advice folks!

NaeKid · #6 02-05-2011, 01:51 PM

Have you considered "smoking" the wood?

An ancient method of preserving wood was to slather butter over all exposed surfaces of the wood and then place the wood into the upper rafters of a smoke-house to cure. It leaves a very nice finish on the wood and preserves it "forever" without chemicals.

A shillelagh is one such wood product made this way.

Map Maker · #7 02-05-2011, 02:19 PM

wow what a beautiful bed!

what i would do is get a wirebrush for a grinder and then do that over all the surface. It breaks down the wood grain in the top 3/16" so absolutely no slivers.

For stain i would just use any tinted latex stain.

good luck with that project. And i thought my bed was heavy.

Spidey · #8 02-05-2011, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Map Maker

wow what a beautiful bed!

what i would do is get a wirebrush for a grinder and then do that over all the surface. It breaks down the wood grain in the top 3/16" so absolutely no slivers.

For stain i would just use any tinted latex stain.

good luck with that project. And i thought my bed was heavy.

Nice idea! I just so happen to have a wire brush for my bench grinder. The 6x6 fir beams are pretty smooth already but the cedar is rough and very sliver prone right now. I've got 2x4 and 2x6 lengths that I'll try and run through the grinder.

Heavy is right. My exterior vertical corner beam is 8 ft tall and probably weighs 90 lbs...

Jorg · #9 02-05-2011, 05:19 PM

I'm a woodfinisher, what are you referring to when you say a less toxic interior finish ? Are you asking about the application part of it or after the product has cured.

Lonnie · #10 02-05-2011, 05:23 PM

sand with belt sander with grain use 60 or 80 grit for a deep wood grain look then rub oil stain on with a cloth if stian is wanted or leave plain coat with duobled boiled linseed oil the linseed oil will put a hard glass finish.try this on a piece of wood first and see how you like it.

Spidey · #11 02-05-2011, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jorg

I'm a woodfinisher, what are you referring to when you say a less toxic interior finish ? Are you asking about the application part of it or after the product has cured.

I'd like to finish the wood in my garage and then cut and assemble the following week in the bedroom. My concern is more centered around after assembly and off gassing while the kids are in the room. Do you have experience with the Lee Valley brands of low VOC stains/varnises? I'm considering them.

Spidey · #12 02-05-2011, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lonnie

sand with belt sander with grain use 60 or 80 grit for a deep wood grain look then rub oil stain on with a cloth if stian is wanted or leave plain coat with duobled boiled linseed oil the linseed oil will put a hard glass finish.try this on a piece of wood first and see how you like it.

I tried a few boards with 80 grit and liked the texture. Would the linseed oil deal with the sliver factor? Where does one buy double boiled linseed oil?

Lonnie · #13 02-05-2011, 05:43 PM

yes the linseed oil should deal with the sliver issue if not to rough if lightly sanded it should work nicely. I use to by it from the local hardware store but most paint shops should have it. make sure that it says double boiled. RAW linseed oil will never harded. single boiled it hardens but no where naer as hard as double boiled

Jorg · #14 02-05-2011, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spidey

I'd like to finish the wood in my garage and then cut and assemble the following week in the bedroom. My concern is more centered around after assembly and off gassing while the kids are in the room. Do you have experience with the Lee Valley brands of low VOC stains/varnises? I'm considering them.

I would recommend Diamondcoat from General paint easy to apply, tough as nails and you can put it over any type of stain. You can brush ,roll or spray it. Most paint companies have decent waterborne lacquers available now. I wouldn't worry about what type of stain you use the finish will seal them up anyhow.

thefloormat · #15 02-05-2011, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jorg

I would recommend Diamondcoat...

I agree, diamond finish. I have done many wood projects and that finish looks just like a rough sanding, stain and then a few coats of a diamond coat varathane finish.

deanmc · #16 02-05-2011, 10:38 PM

Spar varnish is very durable but I am not sure how healthy it is.

densa44 · #17 02-06-2011, 12:23 AM

I don't know how much wood working you have done of it you have detailed plans, or a well equipped shop, but if I was going to all that work to buils an heirloom, I'd choose a different wood.

It looks from the picture that it has many mortise and tenons, some tusk and some through. This type of wood doesn't take glue as well as more common hard or soft woods.

It will be very heavy and difficult to take apart when she wants to move it.

Oak, maple or if you like white pine would make a great bed, solve the finishing problem and provide the required strength with less weight.

If you have the wood already can you mill it down to smaller dimensions? You could run it through the planer, make it smooth and break the edges to reduce the chance of splinters.

Nice design.

Spidey · #18 02-06-2011, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by densa44

I don't know how much wood working you have done of it you have detailed plans, or a well equipped shop, but if I was going to all that work to buils an heirloom, I'd choose a different wood.

It looks from the picture that it has many mortise and tenons, some tusk and some through. This type of wood doesn't take glue as well as more common hard or soft woods.

It will be very heavy and difficult to take apart when she wants to move it.

Oak, maple or if you like white pine would make a great bed, solve the finishing problem and provide the required strength with less weight.

If you have the wood already can you mill it down to smaller dimensions? You could run it through the planer, make it smooth and break the edges to reduce the chance of splinters.

Nice design.

Just in the planning stages right now. I've already got the fir 6x6 timber and ceder 2x6s, 4x4s and 2x4s from previous projects and a well-equipped heated shop. It will be built more-or-less to be permanent in the room so not too worried about weight and portability. I'm also thinking of picking up a 13 inch planer and running the lumber through. Being that material is costing me nothing, I think I can rationalize a new planer purchase

Thanks also to previous posters on the diamond coat finish. I'll check it out....