Building new house advice!

1shotwade · #1 03-09-2012, 03:59 PM

Well it looks like I am building a new house in spruce grove! All I here is negative stuff from people and about builders and problems. Any advice from companies to stay away from and anyother helpfull information would be most appreciated! On a side note I let my wife decide on the main layout of the house, but i get to whatever i want on the downstairs 1000 sqare feet of nothing but hockey and hunting and outdoor stuff!

CaberTosser · #2 03-09-2012, 05:26 PM

Plan in as much storage as you can, in the grand scheme of things a few extra square feet don't cost so much as moving again so don't be shy about a little more area than you think you need. Keep in mind possible furniture placement options when locating doorways and room widths & lengths. The best upgrade possible is spray-foam insulation as it does nothing but save you on future utility bills; and it increases your homes appeal and value if resale is an consideration. We did it and I forget what a cold draft feels like. Wire for everything: Cat5e, Coax, alarm, stereo and TV stuff as well if you so desire. I ran empty 1" conduit from our mech room to the attic to help with future upgradability. I even ran a copper supply and return that could serve solar panels or another idea I have in mind.

ck1 · #3 03-09-2012, 05:45 PM

Things to consider, this may sound a bit anal but if you're a guys guy you will want to have these:
- 220amp in garage
- once you move in, change lights to flourescent, builder will charge you a mint
- insulate and drywall garage
- floor drain, cold/hot water taps in garage, minimal cost if builder will allow it
- sound deaden interior walls and floors (I did this, made a huge difference, you can't hear you guest when he takes a **** in your bathroom)
- if you have pot lights, add more because the standard plan isn't enough
- if you are putting in granite, don't choose black tones, everything will show, the lighter the better

NCC · #4 03-09-2012, 05:49 PM

How much more do you think the spray foam added to the cost of your houseÉ We`re building a new house and I`m thinking of going that route.

We`re going with 9`ceilings upstairs and we were going to go with 10`downstairs but our carpenter thinks 9`is enough for the basement. What`s Does anyone with a 9`basement want to commentÉ

I`m not sure what`s going on with my computer but all of question marks show up like É

sinawalli · #5 03-09-2012, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NCC

How much more do you think the spray foam added to the cost of your houseÉ We`re building a new house and I`m thinking of going that route.

We`re going with 9`ceilings upstairs and we were going to go with 10`downstairs but our carpenter thinks 9`is enough for the basement. What`s Does anyone with a 9`basement want to commentÉ

I`m not sure what`s going on with my computer but all of question marks show up like É

Love my nine foot basement!

Albertadiver · #6 03-09-2012, 06:18 PM

The sky is the limit really.

I'd make a list of all the things you'd like to have.

I.E. 9' ceilings, SIP foundation walls, spray foam or SIP roof insulation, hydronic heating, triple glazed windows, etc.

Once you have your 'wish list' start pricing this out and then you'll see where you need to make cuts. Some stuff is easy and fairly cheap to do which is a no-brainer.

Other stuff is 'nice to have' and may not pay for itself (think geothermal).

1shotwade · #7 03-09-2012, 06:24 PM

I was just wondering about moving some stuff around1 Do builders charge you lot's to say take out a walk in closet in 1 room too make more room for a bathroom! Stuff like that , the revisions on the plans!

Albertadiver · #8 03-09-2012, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1shotwade

I was just wondering about moving some stuff around1 Do builders charge you lot's to say take out a walk in closet in 1 room too make more room for a bathroom! Stuff like that , the revisions on the plans!

Sounds like your best bet would be to do a custom design and get it priced that way. For a few thousand you can get a full set of construction drawings of exactly what you want.

nick0danger · #9 03-09-2012, 06:28 PM

I would never do spray foam ever hold a match to that stuff?

CaberTosser · #10 03-09-2012, 06:30 PM

That funny E with the um latte goes away with a computer restart. I know there's a faster way but forget what it is, someone more computer savvy will chime in; it happens to me now and then as well. The spray foam is a pricey touch, and sadly I forget my costs on it. I had 2 layers sprayed in my attic and I can actually walk on it without having to be on truss webs (I'm 175 lbs). It's also pretty sweet to not have any dust when I'm up there

.

Our basement was supposed to be 9', but I didn't note to my builder about the underslab sheet foam and the 2" thicker concrete I wanted so I'm about 8'7" down there. I'd go 10' if I were you; keep in mind that adds lots to your storage space as you can use higher shelves, etc, and you'll even have lots of height under the ductwork.

We have the purple BASF 2lb foam and had it done by Ener-Spray.

mulie4x4 · #11 03-09-2012, 06:30 PM

Be hands on, inspect everyday, dont be afraid or shy to ask questions, point out deficiencies or problems as you see them, dont go with we well make a list at then end and deal with it then. Remember its your money get what you want.

1shotwade · #12 03-09-2012, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Albertadiver

Sounds like your best bet would be to do a custom design and get it priced that way. For a few thousand you can get a full set of construction drawings of exactly what you want.

Ya this is where I get confused. The house and lot we like are by a big builder doing the subdivision. But There are lot's i can buy and do the whole project myself and save some money I hope! Not sure which way to go! I am in no hurry!

Albertadiver · #13 03-09-2012, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1shotwade

Ya this is where I get confused. The house and lot we like are by a big builder doing the subdivision. But There are lot's i can buy and do the whole project myself and save some money I hope! Not sure which way to go! I am in no hurry!

I work for an architect and do most of my work 'out in the field'.

If I were to build my own house. I'd buy the lot, design it, and price it myself and use a proven well qualified custom home builder. Only way to get what you want.

I've been in cabertosser's place. One of the best researched homes I've been in.

I've walked through thousands of cookie cutter townhouses / spec homes. For this big of an investment for you and your family, if you can afford it, go custom.

If you need some tips on designers, or even to chat with one, let me know.

CaberTosser · #14 03-09-2012, 06:42 PM

Don't forget the secret SHTF bunker in the basement

. Makes a nice gun vault.

Ryry4 · #15 03-09-2012, 06:45 PM

Put 36" doors where ever you can. They don't cost anymore than 24" or 30" and you'll appreciate them when it comes time to move in. Also, I put natural gas to the deck for the bbq and hot and cold water taps in the front and back. They come in handy more often than not.

CaberTosser · #16 03-09-2012, 06:59 PM

I put hot and cold to the back yard as Big Bear suggested; good for filling the possible future hot tub, and also filling the kiddy pool so the poor tykes don't freeze. I did it at my last house as well, and it was used frequently. Have the rear gas line done instead least 3/4" in case you want another branch put in for a patio heater or such in addition to the BBQ. Nothing beats not having to fill propane tanks! Future nat gas to the garage whether it's attached or not, so you can heat it.

Craddosk · #17 03-09-2012, 07:00 PM

Make sure the garage is large enough to fit the largest vehicle you plan to own. I've overbuilding mine to be 24 feet long (measured from the inside walls), with an 8ft garage door, insulated.

Over insulate the house, get the energy efficiency packages. It makes life easier in the long run.

1shotwade · #18 03-09-2012, 07:06 PM

Keep it coming boy's! I am writing it all down!

I-Love-Eyes · #19 03-09-2012, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NCC

I`m not sure what`s going on with my computer but all of question marks show up like É

Hi your keyboard has switched French Canadian mode.

On my computer, there is a little keyboard icon at the bottom right corner and i just click on that to change it back. A reboot will also work.

Cheers, ILE

darius · #20 03-09-2012, 07:20 PM

a decent sized porch and entry . oversize / more windows . open concep floor plan , no carpet

Rocky7 · #21 03-09-2012, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1shotwade

On a side note I let my wife decide on the main layout of the house, .....

In my experience, that is a very good idea.

The only parts of our house that don't quite work are the ones where I vetoed her idea. Funny how it worked out like that...

Ditto on the garage. Mine is around 28 or 32 deep and 4 bays wide. Could be a tad bigger.

If you have a deck where the kitchen is, think about a small casement window. It's real handy to pass steaks and sauce and so on in and out of the kitchen.

Don't skimp on windows. Windows are good.

If you can work in a roof over one deck or part of it (use posts to support the end of that gable), you'll come to love it. That was one of my wife's entirely unreasonable ideas that I caved on and now love on rainy days and real hot days. She got lucky....

darius · #22 03-09-2012, 07:34 PM

kitchen wit a big island with seating at the island .

Yéil · #23 03-09-2012, 07:47 PM

Spend the money on proper waterproofing your foundation walls. What you use will depend on the ground, elevation and wood/poured foundation. Lot's of folk go OOHhh over the faucets but if the basement leaks, all the pretty faucets won't help.

Put in a 75 -100 gallon hot water tank. If you are going with 2 full baths, dishwasher, laundry.. a 50 gallon will run out pretty fast for a two shower a day and load of dishes family.

Don't put the laundry on the second floor. The technology for hook ups at the back of the machine isn't as good as you need it to be for a second floor ... It's so messy and costly when that hose pops off and you're running a full cycle and out for the day.

If you want to put a main floor laundry in, place it over the mechanical room so if there is a leak, it's minimal damage to ceilings in the basement.

Have the builder put shut off valves on all your water supply hoses... toilets, sinks, tubs etc.

If you are installing a garage door opener, and the master is over the garage, put a belt driven one in.. a chain will drive you nuts on your sleep in mornings, if someone leaves before you wake up.

Go for a 9 inch deep sink in the kitchen - that extra depth makes all the difference in splashing from pouring pots out.

If you are going to run a tap out to the backyard, run one so that it's over the stove. Pasta is so much nicer when you don't have to lug a pot full of water over to the stove. T

If you are designing a separate dining room , have the builder install the ceiling fixture so that it's in the middle of the table not centred from the window/wall... if you have a cabinet or buffet, those push the table out and the light will not be centred on the table.

Have the electricians install a junction box in the ceiling of your stairwell ceiling, that way you can install a fan to move the warm air back downstairs in the winter and reverse it for the summer. Also have them install a wall junction box on the basement stairwell so you can add lighting if you need it later.

As nice and cheery sidelights, glass doors and transoms are on a front door, after you've been the house for a few months, you'll be looking for ways to cover them up. You'll be tired of the door-to-door types that peek in your sidelight windows to see if you are home. Save your money put in a regular door and frame.

sprinklerdog · #24 03-09-2012, 08:00 PM

Walk through a bunch of show homes just to get ideas. Certain builders and houses will have something very unique that can be a real bonus. Imagine working in in you kitchen, how does the work flow? At the end of my island facing the stove I have a shallow drawer for cooking untensils, the middle drawer is deeper for regular pots and pans, the bottom drawer is deep. I keep two pressure cookers, my cast iron pans, and my huge stew pot in there and I can leave the lids on them and close the drawer. Anti-slam drawers were also a nice touch.

Add extra light switches if you have numerous lights. I have 31 pots in my kitchen, nook, faimly room area that are controlled by 12 switches. I turn on only the lights I need. When a friend did his basement all his lights are on one switch, he didn't want to pay any extra so it's all or nothing. It's a little hard on the eyes when you first turn it on after a movie or similar.

The extra water taps outside are nice, so is an extra electrical outlet. Noting like stringing an extension cord from the north side of the house to the south side. I got frustrated and got a electrician to pull a new box outside for me. No more extension cord for my patio. An outlet close to the front of the garage (where you drive in and out) is convenient. I can vacuum my truck in the driveway and dont need an extension.

An outlet under the eave that is switch controlled is nice if you put up Christmas lights or similar.

Make sure down spouts flow away from the house, but not onto your sidewalk or driveway. My downspout comes down right beside my yard gate and and the 1/4 point at the top of my driveway. I've already wiped out twice this winter on the ice due to the freeze thaw cycle. Definitely relocating it this year.

Avoid having thermostat for furnace in same room as fireplace, (if you have fireplace), the family room is toasty but the basement freezes.

There's a ton more but I could be typing for an hour. If you see something you like or think of something you want, write it down or you will forget it.

Geo

Rocky7 · #25 03-09-2012, 08:15 PM

Wow, I wish I'd read this when I was building a few years ago.

Put in a hot water tap outside beside one of the cold lines. It'll come in handy and doesn't cost much. You can use a washing machine hose to mix the hot and cold.

Moo Snukkle · #26 03-09-2012, 08:25 PM

Kitchen island with no raised eating bar. Insulate at very least interior bathroom walls, though all interior walls preferred (sound). Use solid core interior doors. There is never enough lighting. Pay attention to dark areas of house. You can always add an extra small window or ceiling sonotube for more light. Rough in as many things as possible. In floor heat, A/C, future this or that. Makes life easy to add these things later as you can afford them if you dont go all out now.

Yéil · #27 03-09-2012, 08:31 PM

I forgot one, there's been a few builders that have moved west from Ontario/Quebec. They brought with them a design that drives me nuts... they put a cold room under the porch - complete with a couple of direct vented ducts to the outside.. In a climate like Ontario, not such a bad idea, but for Alberta (normal) winters, it a huge heat suck/loss area. If you do end up with one of these porches/cold rooms, make sure the builder removes the OSB forms and 2x4s from underneath the porch. The concrete will produce moisture the wood sucks it up and you'll have mold.

Kevvk2 · #28 03-09-2012, 08:37 PM

Look in to ICF walls from the frost wall all the way to to the rafters.
You will never have a better insulated & sound proof house.
A little more money, but if you plan to be in it for a life time its a good investment.

CaberTosser · #29 03-09-2012, 08:38 PM

One thing I like would be a 3/4 bathroom by the rear mud room/ attached garage/ probable main entrance. If you have an occupation that has you come home messy either intermittently or even frequently it's nice to be able to strip at the door and shower there, or make bathroom trips from the party in the yard without traipsing through the whole house. I didn't do this, but will actually have plumbing & a bathroom in my detached garage once it's up.

For the kitchen a wall oven that's elevated a bit is nice to lessen bending over, and the cooktop or rangetop can be near the sink, but have drawers under it for storing all he pots. This we did in our place. A pot filler faucet was mentioned, but I find them obnoxiously expensive, plus a person has to lift the full pot over to the sink to drain it anyways. I didn't opt for one, but we have a garburetor, instant hot water dispenser and I ran central filtered water lines so that our 2 fridges, the instant hot and a wet bar faucet all have filtered water. I'm using a commercial filter bank that just uses cartridges, I find reverse osmosis to be overkill as RO water leaches minerals from you, so much so that vitamin supplements are recommended (and this info is garnered from a multi-day water treatment course i took from a filter vendor/rep that makes money selling the things! RO water lines actually can't have copper or brass fittings in them due to the waters aggressive nature; they must be all plastic.

Albertadiver · #30 03-09-2012, 08:46 PM

Just thought I'd add a quote from a previous similar thread...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Albertadiver

I did a LEED silver building recently (Turner valley library) we did ICF block for the exterior walls, and did spray foam insulation on the roof structure.

During construction, once the windows were in, we literally heated the building with a single 220v commercial heater to keep the temps well above freezing before the air handling and the in slab heating was commissioned. I really noticed a huge difference between that job and a number of my other sites.

If I build my dream house, it will be ICF exterior walls, and SIP roof panels with triple glazed, low E windows. Your heating loads and cooling loads are incredible. And HRV will give you fresh air and temper that air before it needs to be mechanically heated or cooled.