Grizzly 660 help

[Hogie135]

So I've run into an issue with my Grizzly. It won't start. Changed Spark plugs, no go, re-jetted Carb, no go. Spark plug has a spark that I can see, battery is fully charged but still wont turn over. I've even cleaned all connections at the battery terminals including wire lugs.

When I first took the carb off ( before re-jetting it) I just sprayed it down with carb cleaner and cleaned it as best I could. When I put it back in, she fired up for about 10 seconds then died again not to be restarted since. That's when I thought my jets are gummed up again, but not so. Any ideas or suggestions? I'm going to try changing the gas out see if its that but I doubt it. Its been in there since last summer (stored in my garage though).

[boah]

Turn your gas valve to reserve

[Drewski Canuck]

I own a couple of the 2004 year machines, and have had issues.

First, when you are cranking, did you prime the air box with some fuel to see if it would start?

Second, if you had poor power before, did you ever open up the air box and see that it was full of a mix of fuel and oil? The airbox may have a black oily residue in it also.

Obviously a fuel problem. If you have a visible spark, and you have the proper plug installed, the timing is pretty hard to mess up.

What is a problem on these machines is that there is a needle valve on the bowl in the carb that takes a lot of vibration, and eventually wears away. Essentially, the air box floods with fuel.

When this valve starts wearing down, fuel keeps coming in and over fueling the carb and the air box. That is the tell tale sign.

I have a manual at home, and a spare carb that is rebuilt as a back up and I am in Edmonton.

I also have a contact on a Mechanic that can help in the Edmonton area.

To do a proper job on a gummed up jet you will need some carb cleaner and compressed air. Simply spraying Carb cleaner in the throat will not do the trick.

Drewski

[Hogie135]

Originally Posted by Drewski Canuck

I own a couple of the 2004 year machines, and have had issues.

First, when you are cranking, did you prime the air box with some fuel to see if it would start?

Second, if you had poor power before, did you ever open up the air box and see that it was full of a mix of fuel and oil? The airbox may have a black oily residue in it also.

Obviously a fuel problem. If you have a visible spark, and you have the proper plug installed, the timing is pretty hard to mess up.

What is a problem on these machines is that there is a needle valve on the bowl in the carb that takes a lot of vibration, and eventually wears away. Essentially, the air box floods with fuel.

When this valve starts wearing down, fuel keeps coming in and over fueling the carb and the air box. That is the tell tale sign.

I have a manual at home, and a spare carb that is rebuilt as a back up and I am in Edmonton.

I also have a contact on a Mechanic that can help in the Edmonton area.

To do a proper job on a gummed up jet you will need some carb cleaner and compressed air. Simply spraying Carb cleaner in the throat will not do the trick.

Drewski

I just replaced all of the jets. When you talk about air box do you mean where the Air filter sits? I have not primed that with fuel, however on a grizzly forum I read to put a couple ounces of fuel in the engine through where the spark plug goes to check. I was going to try that too.

[ChickakooKookoo]

Originally Posted by Hogie135

I just replaced all of the jets. When you talk about air box do you mean where the Air filter sits? I have not primed that with fuel, however on a grizzly forum I read to put a couple ounces of fuel in the engine through where the spark plug goes to check. I was going to try that too.

Did that with my Kodiak and worked well, just make sure you've got something close to put out the fire you'll start.

[Drewski Canuck]

Yes, the foam air filter will hold a lot of gas and will be great for a prime with the box closed.

I do not have my manual at hand, so I cannot identify the culprit needle.

Did you buy a full rebuild kit for the Carb?

Drewski

[Hogie135]

Originally Posted by Drewski Canuck

Yes, the foam air filter will hold a lot of gas and will be great for a prime with the box closed.

I do not have my manual at hand, so I cannot identify the culprit needle.

Did you buy a full rebuild kit for the Carb?

Drewski

How exactly do I prime the air box, just some gas on the filter? I did try spraying the spray engine starter stuff while trying to start directly into the carb with filter off (forget the name of it) that did not work.

I bought the kit that just comes with all of the jets and o rings. I replaced all the jets inside where the float is. I did not change the big needle from the top bowl. Screws were stripped couldn’t get it off at the time but I can have the metal techs at work get them off for me if needed.

[DisplacedCaper]

I had the same problem with the carb sticking open or whatever was happening on my 03 660. I’d get a lot of fuel in the oil pan. Pull the oil plug and see if it smells like gas. If so drain it put new oil in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Drewski Canuck]

What displaced Caper is talking about, (Fuel in Oil), is what I am talking about.

Essentially, my air box was 1/3 full of a fuel - oil mix from the vacuum created by the engine, and the worn out main jet, or as I recall the name, accelerator plunger???

If the body of the carb has stripped holes, it may just be easier to get another carb. If you can get the screws out and re tap, and change that main needle, it will not over fuel any more.

But this condition is the sign that the vibration has destroyed this needle valve / plunger, and fuel is leaking back into the air box, and the engine through a vacuum line.

I will go look it up when I get home.

Drewski

[Hogie135]

Originally Posted by Drewski Canuck

What displaced Caper is talking about, (Fuel in Oil), is what I am talking about.

Essentially, my air box was 1/3 full of a fuel - oil mix from the vacuum created by the engine, and the worn out main jet, or as I recall the name, accelerator plunger???

If the body of the carb has stripped holes, it may just be easier to get another carb. If you can get the screws out and re tap, and change that main needle, it will not over fuel any more.

But this condition is the sign that the vibration has destroyed this needle valve / plunger, and fuel is leaking back into the air box, and the engine through a vacuum line.


I will go look it up when I get home.

.
Drewski

This helps. Will be my next try. Another symptom I had was that my spark plug seemed to always be flooded/wet with fuel so too much fuel was getting into engine? I don’t think the air box had much fuel in it but there is a pool of what I thought was filter oil. I coulda been wrong.

It’s just the screws that’s are stripped. My stripped screw remover tool wasn’t working but I should be able to get them off to change the main jet as well

[FishHunterPro]

Originally Posted by Hogie135

So I've run into an issue with my Grizzly. It won't start. Changed Spark plugs, no go, re-jetted Carb, no go. Spark plug has a spark that I can see, battery is fully charged but still wont turn over. I've even cleaned all connections at the battery terminals including wire lugs.

When I first took the carb off ( before re-jetting it) I just sprayed it down with carb cleaner and cleaned it as best I could. When I put it back in, she fired up for about 10 seconds then died again not to be restarted since. That's when I thought my jets are gummed up again, but not so. Any ideas or suggestions? I'm going to try changing the gas out see if its that but I doubt it. Its been in there since last summer (stored in my garage though).

You say the battery is charged but still won’t turn over the machine? Did you try another battery kicking around. Could be a bad solenoid . I had a issue last year where my battery said it was good on a meter but was actually cooked by a bad voltage regulator rectifier . I bought the $25 part on amazon and I was all fixed up.

[DMZ]

One time I had a lawn tractor that would run for 5 minutes then quit... Guy owned it before me spent a fortune rebuilding it but it never ran correct so he bought a new one.. I paid 100 bucks for his old one.. Anyhow.. Long story short.. The problem was the little hole on the gas cap was plugged and as the gas was fed to the engine it would create a vacuum and starve the engine of fuel... Fixed it with a tooth pick.. Before you beat me up, I didn't know the problem when I bought it..

Anyhow, take what you will from my story..

[Hogie135]

Update....got the carb back out and replaced the main needle and recleaned the carb really well. Changed the gas to new gas. Quad now starts and runs but very rough and only if choke is about half way on. On shut down she backfires. She doesn’t idle tho just stalls out. I still have to do an oil change and check engine coolant. The headers coming out of engine also get glowing red hot.

[JohninAB]

You have some serious carb issues by the sounds of it. You are running way too lean if it only runs with the choke on and your exhaust pipe is red hot. You will burn a hole thru your piston or melt it totally down.